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The  Horticulturist's 

RULE-BOOK 

A  Compendium  of  Useful  Information 
for 

Fruit-Growers,  Truck-Gardeners,  Florists 
AND  Others. 


Completed  to  the  Beginning  of  the  Year 

1892 


By  L  H.  bailey 


SECOND  EDITION,  REVISED 


NEW  YORK 
THE    RURAL    PUBLISHING   COMPANY 

TIMES   BUILDING  * 


By  the  Same  Author. 


I.  ANNALS  OF  HORTICULTURE  IN  NORTH  AMERICA  FOR 
THE  YEAR  1889.  A  Witness  of  Passing  Events  and  a  Record  of  Pro- 
gress.    Pp.  204.     Illustrated.     Cloth,  $1  ;  paper,  60  cents. 

II.  Volume  for  1890.    Pp.  312.     Illustrated.    Same  Price. 

III.  Volume  for  1891.    Pp.  415.     Illustrated.    Same  Price. 

THE  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK.  A  Compendium  of  Use- 
ful Information  for  Fruit  Growers,  Truck  Gardeners,  Florists  and  Others. 
New  Edition.     Pp.  221.     Cloth,  $1  ;  paper,  50  cents. 

THE  NURSERY  BOOK.  A  Complete  Guide  to  the  Multiplication 
and  Pollination  of  Plants.  Pp.  304.  106  Illustrations.  Cloth,  $1 ;  paper, 
50  cents. 

CROSS-BREEDING  AND  HYBRIDIZING.  The  Philosophy  of  the 
Crossing  of  Plants,  Considered  with  Reference  to  their  Improvement 
under  Cultivaticn.  With  a  Bibliography  of  the  Subject.  Pp.48.  Paper 
25  cts. 

FIELD-NOTES  ON  APPLE-CULTURE.  Pp.90;  19  Illustrations. 
Cloth,  75  cents. 

TALKS  A-FIELD:  ABOUT  PLANTS  AND  THE  SCIENCE  OF 
PLANTS.    Pp.  173  ;  100  Illustrations.    Cloth,  *i. 


THE  RURAL  PUBLISHING  COMPANY, 
Times  Building,  New  York. 


COPYRIGHTED     1882  ELECTROTYPEO    AND    PRINTED 

BY  THE   RURAL  PUBLISHING  CO  BV    THE    RURAL    PUBLISHING    CO. 


The  author  wishes  to  be  advised  of  any  errors 
in  this  work,  and  he  desires  any  information  which 
will  be  useful  in  the  preparation  of  a  third  edition. 
Ithaca,  N.  Y.,  Dec.  31, 1892 


cn 

CO 

en 


00 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 
Insecticides. 7-17 

CHAPTER  II. 
Injurious  Insects,  with  Remedies  and  Preventives.    18-  39 

CHAPTER  III. 
Fungicides,  for  Plant  Diseases 40-  44 

CHAPTER  IV. 
Plant  Diseases,  with  Preventives  and  Remedies  .   .    4&-  60 

CHAPTER  V. 
Injuries  from  Mice,  Rabbits,  Squirrels  and  Birds, 

WITH  Preventives  and  Remedies 61-  64 

CHAPTER  VI. 
Weeds  and  Moss  .      65-  67 

1.  Weeds  in  General 65 

2.  Weeds  in  Lawns 65 

3.  Weeds  on  Walks 66 

4.  Moss  on  Walks  and  Lawns '•...,  67 

5.  Moss  on  Trees 67 

CHAPTER  VII. 
Waxes  for  Grafting  and  for  Wounds 68-  70 

1.  Common  Resin  and  Beeswax  Waxes 68 

2.  Alcoholic  Waxes 68 

3.  French  and  Pitch  Waxes 69 

4.  Waxed  String  and  Bandage 69 

5.  Waxes  for  Wounds 70 

(2) 


Contents. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 
Cements,  Mortars,  Paints  and  Glues 71-77 

1.  Cement  and  Mortar -•  ^^ 

2.  Concrete,  etc.,  for  Floors,  Borders  and  Walks  .   .  73 

3.  Paints  and  Protective  Compounds 74 

4.  Glues '^^ 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Seed-Tables 78-86 

1.  Quantity  of  Seed  Required  to  Sow  an  Acre   ...  78 

2.  Weight  and  Size  of  Garden  Seeds 79 

3.  Number  of  Tree-Seeds  in  a  Pound 82 

4.  Longevity  of  Garden  Seeds 83 

5.  Average  Time  Required  for  Garden  Seeds   to 

Germinate 86 

6.  Proper  Kinds   and  Quantities   of   Seeds   for  a 

Model  English  Kitchen-Garden  of  1^  acres  .  .  86 

CHAPTER  X. 

Planting-Tables 87-96 

1.  Dates  for  Sowing  or   Setting  Kitchen-Garden 

Vegetables  in  Different  Latitudes 87 

2.  Tender  and  Hardy  Vegetables 90 

3.  Usual  Distances  Apart  for  Planting  Fruits    ...  90 

4.  Usual  Distances  Apart  for  Planting  Vegetables  .  91 

5.  Number  of  Plants  Required  to  Set  an  Acre  of 

Ground  at  Given  Distances 92 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Maturities,  Yields  and  Multiplication 97-103 

1.  Time  Required  for  Maturity  of  Different  Garden 

Crops,  Reckoned  from  the  Sowing  of  the  Seed .  97 

2.  Time  Required,  from  Setting,  for  Fruit  Plants 

to  Bear ^"^ 

3.  Average  Profitable  Longevity  of  Fruit  Plants 

Under  High  Culture 98 


4  The  Horticulturist's  Rule- Book. 

Chapter  XI.,  continued. 

4.  Average  Yields  per  Acre  of  Various  Crops ....  98 

5.  Tabulai  Statement  of  the  Ways  in  which  Plants 

are  Propagated  .   .   . ' 100 

6.  Ways  of  Grafting  and  Budding 101 

7.  Particular  Methods  by  which  Various  Fruits  are 

Multiplied 102 

8.  Stocks  Used  for  Various  Fruits -.  .   .         103 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Methods  of  Keeping  and  Storing  Fruits  and  Vege- 
tables   104-112 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Standard  and  Legal  Measures  and  Sizes 113-122 

1.  Standard  Flower-Pots 113 

2.  Legal  and  Standard  Measures 114 

3.  Miscellaneous  Legal  Weights  per  Bushel    ....  116 

4.  Miscellaneous  Legal  Sizes 116 

5.  Society  and  Customary  Standards 117 

6.  Covent  Garden  Measures 121 

CHAPTER  XIV. 
Tables  of  Measures  and  Weights 123-128 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Miscellaneous  Tables,  Figures  and  Notes 129-140 

1.  Quantity  of  Water  Held  by  Pipes  of  Various 

Sizes 129 

2.  Number  of  Gallons  in  Circular  Tanks  and  Wells .  129 

3.  Number  of  Gallons  in  Square-built  Tanks  ....  130 

4.  Thermometer  Scales 131 

5.  Effects  of  Wind  in  Cooling  Glass 131 

6.  Per  Cent,  of  Rays  of  Light  Reflected  from  Glass 

Roofs  at  Various  Angles  of  Inclination 132 


Contents.  5 

Chapter  XV.,  continued. 

7.  Area  of  Glass  Used  for  Commercial  Greenhouse 

Purposes  in  Various  States  and  Provinces.  .    .  132 

8.  National  and  Party  Flowers 133 

9.  Dates  at  which  Various  Fruits  and  Nuts  appear 

in  Northern  Markets 134 

10.  What  Constitutes  Wholesale  Quantities 135 

11.  Average  Prices  in  France  of  Various  Orchid 

Flowers 136 

12.  Weights   of   Various   Varieties   of   Apples   per 

Bushel 136 

13.  Various  Recipes  and  Rules 137 

14.  Various  Figures 139 

CHAPTER  XVI. 
Rules 141-149 

1.  Loudon's  Rules  of  Horticulture 141 

2.  Rules  of  Nomenclature 141 

•      3.    Rules  for  Exhibition 143 

CHAPTER  XVn. 

Postal  Rates  AijrD  Regulations 150-154 

1.  Classes  of  Domestic  Mail  Matter  and  Rates  .  .   .  150 

2.  Foreign  Postage 152 

3.  Unmailable  Matter 153 

CHAPTER  XVni. 
Weather  Signs  and  Protection  from  Frost 155-157 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Collecting  and  Preserving 158-166 

1.  Collecting  and  Preserving  Plants 158 

2.  Preserving  and  Printing  of  Flowers  and  Other 

Parts  of  Plants 150 

3.  Perfumery 164 

4.  Collecting  and  Preserving  Insects 165 


6  The   HorticulturisV  s  Rule- Book. 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Elements,  Symbols  and  Analyses 167-184 

1.  The  Elements  and  their  Symbols,  and  the  Compo- 

sition of  Various  Substances 167 

2.  Analyses 168 

(a)  General  Analyses  of  Fruits  and  Fruit-Plants    .  i68 

(b)  Analyses  of  Fruits  and  Garden  Products,  with 
Reference  to  their  Fertilizing  Constituents  .   .  172 

(c)  Analyses  of  Animal  Excrements    .....      176 

(d)  Analyses  of  Various  Materials  which  are  Used 
for  Fertilizers 179 

(e)  Trade  Values  for  1891  of  Fertilizing  Ingredi- 
ents in  Raw  Materials  and  Chemicals     ....  183 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

Names,  Histories  and  Statistics 185-199 

1.  Vegetables  which  have  Different  Names  in  Eng- 

land and  America 185 

2.  Names  of  Vegetables  in  Various  Languages  .   .   .         186 

3.  Derivation  of  the  Names  of  Various  Fruits  and 

Vegetables 190 

4.  Periods  of  Cultivation  and  Native  Countries  of 

Cultivated  Plants 192 

5.  Statistics  of  the  Vegetable  Kingdom 194 

CHAPTER  XXn. 
Glossary 200-212 


CHAPTER    I. 


Insecticides. 


The  results  obtained  from  the  use  of  any  insecticide  or  fun^- 
cide  depend  upon  the  operator.  Timeliness,  thoroughness  and  jjer. 
sistence  are  the  watchwords  of  success.  It  is  easier  to  keep 
an  enemy  away  than  to  drive  him  away.  The  worst  foes  are 
often  the  smallest  ones,  and  the  injury  is  often  done  before  they 
are  detected.    Be  readj^  and  begin  early. 

Arsenic. — Kaiown  to  chemists  as  arsenious  acid  or  white  oxide 
of  arsenic.  It  is  considered  an  unsafe  insecticide,  as  its 
color  allows  it  to  be  mistaken  for  other  substances ;  but  in 
its  various  compounds  it  forms  our  best  insecticides.  From 
1  to  2  grains  usually  prove  fatal  to  an  adult ;  30  grains  will 
usually  kill  a  horse,  10  a  cow  and  1  gi^ain  or  less  is  usually 
fatal  to  a  dog.  In  case  of  poisoning,  while  awaiting  the 
arrival  of  a  physician,  give  emetics,  and  after  free  vomiting, 
give  milk  and  eggs.  Sugar  and  magnesia  in  milk  is  useful. 
Araenites.— Compounds  of  arsenic,  in  which  arsenious  acid  unites 
with  some  metallic  base.  The  leading  arsenites  used  in 
destroying  insects  are  Paris  gi'een  and  London  purple : 
Paris  green. — An  aceto-arsenite  of  copper.  When  pure,  it 
contains  about  58  per  cent,  of  arsenic,  but  the  commercial 
article  usually  contains  less,  often  as  little  as  30  per  cent. 
The  following  may  be  considered  an  average  analysis: 
Arsenic,  47.68  per  cent. ;  copper  oxide,  27.47 ;  sulphuric  acid, 
7.16;  moisture,  1.35;  insoluble  residue,  2.34.  It  is  applied 
in  either  a  wet  or  dry  condition,  but  in  any  case  it  must  be 
much  diluted.  For  making  a  dry  mixture,  plaster,  flour, 
air-slaked  lime,  road  dust,  or  sifted  wood-ashes  may  be  used. 
The  strength  of  the  mixture  required  depends  upon  the 
plants  and  insects  to  which  it  is  to  be  applied.  The  strongest 
(7) 


8  The  Horticulturist' s  Rule- Book. 

Arsenites  (Paris  green),  continued. 

mixture  now  recommended  is  1  part  of  poison  to  50  of  the 
diluent,  but  if  the  mixing  is  very  thoroughly  done,  1  part  to 
100  or  even  200  is  sufficient. 

Paris  green  is  practically  insoluble  in  water.  When  mixed 
with  water,  the  mixture  must  be  kept  in  a  constant  state  of 
agitation,  else  the  poison  will  settle  and  the  liquid  from  the 
bottom  of  the  cask  will  be  so  strong  as  to  do  serious  damage, 
while  that  from  the  top  will  be  useless.  For  potatoes,  apple 
trees  and  most  species  of  shade-trees,  1  pound  of  poison  to 
200  gallons  of  water  is  a  good  mixture.  For  the  stone-fruits, 
1  pound  to  300  or  even  350  gallons  of  water  is  a  strong  enough 
mixture.  Peach  trees  are  very  apt  to  be  injured  by  arsen- 
ites, and  for  them  the  mixture  should  be  no  stronger  than 
1  pound  to  300  gallons.  In  all  cases,  the  liquid  should  be 
applied  with  force  in  a  very  fine  spray.  At  some  seasons  of 
the  year  foliage  is  more  liable  to  injury  than  at  others, 
London  purple.  An  arsenite  of  lime,  obtained  as  a  by-product 
in  the  manufacture  of  aniline  dyes.  The  composition  is 
variable.  The  amount  of  arsenic  varies  from  30  to  over  50 
per  cent.    The  two  following  analyses  show  its  composition : 

1.  Arsenic,  43.65  per  cent.;  rose  aniline,  12.46;  lime,  21.82; 
insoluble  residue,  14.57;   iron  oxide,  1.16;   and  water,  2.27. 

2.  Arsenic,  55.35  percent.;  lime,  26.23;  sulphuric  acid,  ,22 ; 
carbonic  acid,  ,27 ;  moisture,  5.29.  It  is  a  finer  powder  than 
Paris  green,  and  therefore  remains  longer  in  suspension  in 
water.  It  is  used  in  the  same  manner  as  Paris  green,  but  is 
sometimes  found  to  be  more  caustic  on  foliage.  This  injury 
is  due  to  the  presence  of  much  soluble  arsenic.  London  pur- 
ple should  not  be  used  on  peach  trees. 

Combinations  of  arsenites  and  fungicides.  The  arsenites 
may  be  used  in  connection  with  some  fungicides,  and  both 
insects  and  plant-diseases  in  this  manner  may  be  combated 
at  the  same  time.  An  ounce  of  the  arsenites  may  be  added 
to  ten  gallons  of  Bordeaux  mixture,  for  potatoes,  and  other 
combinations  will  occur  to  the  operator.  The  arsenites  are 
also  sometimes  added  to  soap  and  other  washes. 

The  addition  of  lime  to  Paris  green  and  London  purple 
mixtures  greatly  lessens  injury  to  foliage,  and,  as  a  conse- 
quence, they  can  be  applied  several  times  stronger  than  ordi- 


Insecticides.  9 

Arsenitesandfungricides,  continued. 

narily  used  when  they  are  combined  with  the  Bordeaux 
mixture.  The  free  lime  in  the  mixture  combines  with  the 
soluble  arsenic,  w^hich  is  the  material  that  injures  the  foliage, 
and  the  combination  is  thus  made  quite  harmless. 

London  purple  and  Paris  green  should  rarely  be  applied 
with  the  ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper,  as  the  ammonia  in 
the  latter  dissolves  the  arsenic,  making  the  combination 
caustic.  The  addition  of  sulphate  of  copper  to  the  arsenites 
also  increases  injury. 

Bait.  — 1.  Paris  green  or  London  purple,  1  ounce,  chopped  grass 
or  leaves,  8  ounces,  and  enough  syrup  to  allow  the  mass  to  be 
worked  into  balls.  For  wire- worm  beetles,  crickets,  katy- 
dids, etc. 

2.  Bran  40  pounds,  middlings  15  pounds,  arsenic  20  pounds, 
cheap  syrup  2  gallons.  Mix  in  soft  water  to  a  paste.  For 
grasshoppers. 

Bisulphide  of  carbon. — A  thin  liquid  which  volatilizes  at  a  very 
low  temperature,  the  vapor  being  very  destructive  to  animal 
life.  It  is  exceedingly  inflammable,  and  should  never  be 
used  near  a  lamp  or  fire.  It  is  used  for  many  root-insects. 
It  is  poured  into  a  hole  which  is  immediately  closed  up,  caus- 
ing the  fumes  to  permeate  the  soil  in  all  directions.  In  loose 
soils  it  is  very  destructive  to  insects.  It  is  also  inserted  in 
tight  receptacles  to  kill  such  insects  as  pea-weevil  and 
museum  pests. 

Bisulphide  of  carbon  and  kerosene.— 1  part  of  bisulphide  of  carbon 
mixed  with  from  5  to  20  parts  of  kerosene  will  produce  vapor 
sufficient  to  kill  many  gi'ain-eating  insects. 

Blue  vitriol  or  copperas.— 1  ounce  of  copperas  to  a  pail  of  water 
is  sometimes  effective  in  destroying  root-insects. 

Coal-tar  fumes. — Burn  rags  coated  with  coal-tar  attached  to  a 
pole.    Remedy  for  aphis. 

Carbolic  acid  and  soap  mixture.— 1  pint  crude  carbolic  acid,  1 
quart  soft  soap,  2  gallons  hot  water.  Mix  thoroughly.  This 
wash  is  used  for  borers,  and  for  plant-lice.  Apply  with  a 
cloth  or  soft  broom. 

Carbolic  acid  and  water. — Add  1  part  of  acid  to  from  50  to  100 
parts  of  water.     For  root-insects. 


lo  The  Horticultiirisf  s   Rule- Book. 

Carbolized  plaster. — Stir  1  pint  of  crude  carbolic  acid  into  50 
pounds  of  land-plaster.  Or,  quick  lime  may  be  slaked  with 
the  acid.  The  powder  is  thrown  over  the  tree  when  the  dew 
is  on,  as  a  remedy  for  the  curculio.  It  should  be  applied 
profusely. 

Glue  and  arsenites  wash. — Common  glue,  1  pound,  soaked  a  few 
hours  in  cold  water  and  then  dissolved  in  y^  gallon  of  hot 
water ;  add  1  ounce  London  purple  or  Paris  green,  stir  well, 
and  add  hot  water  till  the  mixture  measures  2  gallons.  For 
preventing  the  attacks  of  borers. 

Hot  water. — Submerge  affected  plants  or  branches  in  water  at  a 
temperature  of  about  125°.    For  aphis. 

Kerosene. — In  pure  state,  kerosene  is  used  as  an  insecticide  upon 
many  plants,  with  various  results.  It  does  not  appear  to 
injure  the  coleus,  rose,  grape,  peach  and  pea,  but  does  injure 
the  potato,  tomato  and  gooseberr^^,  and  other  plants. 

Kerosene  emulsion. — 1.  Soft  soap,  1  quart,  or  hard  soap — pref- 
erably whale-oil  soap — %  pound ;  2  quarts  hot  water ;  1  pint 
kerosene.  Stir  until  aU  are  permanently  mixed,  and  then 
dilute  with  water  to  one-half  or  one-third  strength.  A  good 
way  to  make  the  emulsion  permanent  is  to  pump  the  mix- 
ture back  into  the  receptacle  several  times.  Makes  a  perma- 
nent emulsion  with  either  hard  or  soft  water. 

2.  Hard  soap,  ^  pound ;  boiling  water,  1  gaUon ;  kerosene, 
2  gallons.  Churn  or  pump  the  ingredients  vigorously  15  or 
20  minut«s.  Dilute  ten  times  when  using.  This  is  the  Hub- 
bard or  standard  emulsion  for  scale  of  the  orange. 

2  ounces  balsam  of  fir  added  to  the  above  appears  to 
increase  its  efficiency,  and  it  causes  it  to  adhere  to  foliage 
better,    y  W^^  spirits  of  turpentine  is  sometimes  added. 

3.  Pyrethi'o-kerosene  emulsion.  In  the  place  of  pure 
kerosene  in  the  above  emulsions,  use  a  kerosene  decoction 
of  pyrethrum,  made  by  filtering  1  gallon  of  kerosene  through 
2)^  pounds  of  pyrethrum.    Valuable. 

Kerosene  and  milk  emulsion.— Sour  milk,  1  gallon;  kerosene  oil, 
2  gallons ;  warm  to  a  blood  heat  and  mix  thoroughly.  Dilute 
10  times  with  water.     For  scale  insects  and  plant-lice. 

Kerosene  and  condensed  milk  emulsion. — Kerosene,  2  gallons,  or 
64  per  cent,  of  the  entire  mixture ;  condensed  milk,  4  cans  of 
%  pint,  or  123^  per  cent. ;  water  twice  the  quantity  of  milk, 
or  25  per  cent. 


Insecticides.  1 1 

Kerosene  and  water  emnlsion. — Goff  atomizes  kerosene  and  water 
as  follows :  To  the  Woodasou  atomizing  bellows  a  small  cup 
is  attached  directly  in  front  of  the  fount  for  holding  the 
liquid  to  be  atomized.  From  this  cup  a  verj^  slender  copper 
tube  is  passed  through  the  side  of  the  fount  where  it 
enteres  the  larger  tube  that  conducts  the  liquid  from  the 
fount  to  the  mouth  of  the  bellows.  It  then  curves  upward, 
passing  through  the  center  of  this  tube  as  far  as  the  mouth 
of  the  bellows,  where  both  come  to  an  end  at  the  same  point. 
Kerosene  is  then  placed  in  the  added  cup  and  water  in  the 
fount.  On  working  the  bellows  the  liquids  are  atomized 
together.  The  proportion  of  kerosene  emitted  will  depend 
upon  the  relative  diameters  of  the  two  tubes,  but  it  may  also 
be  regulated  bj"  the  relative  depths  of  the  liquid  in  their 
respective  founts.  A  better  way  would  be  to  use  but  a  single 
fount  and  to  divide  this  into  two  parts,  one  for  kerosene  and 
the  other  for  water.  This  would  permit  the  mouth  of  the 
bellows  to  be  brought  nearer  to  the  plant  to  be  atomized. 

Lime  spray.— Slake  yi  peck  or  a  peck  of  lime  in  a  barrel  of 
water,  straining  the  lime  as  it  enters  the  barrel  to  prevent 
its  clogging  the  pump.  Apply  in  a  spray  until  the  tree 
appears  as  if  whitewashed.    For  rose-chafer. 

London  purple.— See  Arsenites. 

Lye  wash.— 1  pound  concentrated  lye,  or  potash  \yi  pounds,  to 
3  gallons  water.  On  an  average,  1  bushel  of  good  wood- 
ashes  contains  about  4  pounds  of  potash.  For  scale  insects. 
Common  home-made  lye  is  often  diluted  with  water  and 
applied  to  apple  branches  with  a  brush  as  a  remedy  for  the 
bark-louse.  It  is  also  recommended  as  a  remedy  for  the  cab- 
bage-worm, being  sprinkled  on  the  cabbages  with  a  water- 
ing pot.  If  concentrated  lye  is  used,  a  pound  should  be 
diluted  with  a  barrel  of  water. 

Lye  and  sulphur  wash. — Concentrated  lye,  1  pound,  or  potash, 
V/L  pounds;  sulphur,  1>^  pounds;  water,  3  gallons.  For 
scale  insects. 

Lye  and  whale-oil  soap  wash.— (a.)  Dissolve  1  pound  of  concen- 
trated lye  in  one  gallon  of  water ;  add  to  this  V/i  iwunds  of 
sulphur  and  boil  until  sulphur  is  dissolved,  (b.)  Dissolve 
14  pounds  of  the  best  Avhale-oil  soap  in  54  gallons  of  water ; 
add  solution  a  to  b  and  boil  for  a  short  time.    For  scale; 


12  The  Horticulturisf s  Ride-Book. 

Lye  and  whale-oil  soap  wash,  continued. 

used  as  a  summer  wash  when  the  first  brood  is  hatching. 
Use  at  130°  Fahrenheit,  thoroughly  washing  the  trunks  and 
larger  branches  and  spraying  the  smaller  branches  and 
twigs. 

Oil  and  alkali  wash.— 1.  l}<[  gallons  of  whale-oil,  25  pounds  sal- 
soda  ;  dissolve  the  sal-soda  in  25  gallons  of  water  and  heat  it 
to  boiling.  When  boiling  pour  the  whale-oil  in.  Apply  the 
wash  when  cooled  to  130°  Fahr. 

2.  1  pound  of  concentrated  lye  (American)  of  80  per  cent. ; 
or  4-5  of  a  pound  of  Greenbank  powdered  caustic  soda,  of  98 
per  cent. ;  or  1  pound  of  solid  caustic  soda,  of  76  per  cent. ; 
or  1}4  pounds  of  solid  caustic  soda  of  63  per  cent.  These 
varying  proportions  are  given  because  the  caustic  sodas  in 
the  markets  are  of  different  strengths  and  purity.  Which- 
ever one  is  chosen,  add  to  each  amount  named  X  pound  of 
commercial  potash  and  dissolve  in  6  gallons  of  water. 

Both  washes  are  for  scale  insects  on  deciduous  trees  in 
winter.     (Calif  ornian.) 

Paraffins  oil.  When  plants  are  infested  with  lice,  wet  them  at 
intervals  of  three  or  four  days  for  about  three  weeks  with 
diluted  paraffine  in  the  proportion  of  a  wineglassful  to 
wat-ering-can  of  water, 

Paris  green.— See  Arsenites. 

Plaster  and  kerosene. — 2  quarts  of  plaster  or  wood-ashes,  1  table- 
spoonful  of  kerosene.  Mix  and  rub  with  the  hands  until  the 
oil  is  well  incorporated.  Bone-flour  may  be  substituted  for 
the  plaster.    Repellent. 

Potash.— Kainit,  1  ounce  to  a  pint  of  water,  applied  in  a  spray,  is 
recommended  for  aphis  and  various  leaf -eating  larvae. 
Muriate  of  potash,  applied  in  the  same  strength,  is  as  good, 
but  is  more  likely  to  injure  the  plants. 

Promoting  growth. — Any  course  that  tends  to  promote  vigor  will 
be  helpful  in  enabling  plants  to  withstand  the  attacks  of 
plant-lice  and  other  insects. 

Pyrethrum.— A  very  fine  and  light  brown  powder  made  from  the 
flower-heads  of  species  of  pyrethrum.  It  is  scarcely  injuri- 
ous to  man.    Three  brands  are  upon  the  market: 


Insecticides.  13 

Pyrethrum,  continued. 
Persian  insect-powder,  made  from  the  heads  of  Pyrethrum 
roseum,  a  species  now  cultiYated  as  an  ornamental  plant. 
The  plant  is  native  to  the  Caucasus  region. 
Dalmation  insect-powder,  made  from  Pyrethrum  cinerarice- 
*       folium. 

BuHACH,  made  in  California  from  cultivated  plants  of  P.  cincra- 
ricefolium. 

When  fresh  and  pure,  all  these  brands  appear  to  be  equally 
valuable,  but  the  home-grown  product  is  usually  considered 
most  reliable.    Pyrethrum  soon  loses  its  value  when  exposed  ' 
to  the  air.    It  is  used  in  various  ways : 

1.  In  solution  in  water,  1  ounce  to  3  gallons. 

2.  Dry,  without  dilution. 

3.  Dry,  diluted  with  flour  or  any  light  and  fine  powder. 
The  poison  may  be  used  in  the  proportion  of  1  part  to  from 
6  to  30  of  the  diluent. 

4.  In  fumigation.  It  may  be  scattered  directly  upon  coals, 
or  made  into  small  balls  by  wetting  and  molding  with  the 
hands  and  then  set  upon  coals.  This  is  a  desirable  way  of 
dealing  with  mosquitoes  and  flies. 

5 :  In  alcohol.  (1)  Put  one  part  of  pyrethrum  (buhach)  and 
four  parts  alcohol,  by  weight,  in  any  tight  vessel.  Shake 
occasionally,  and  after  eight  days  filter.  Apply  with  an 
atomizer.  Excellent  for  greenhouse  pests.  For  some  plants 
it  needs  to  be  diluted  a  little.  (2)  Dissolve  about  4  ounces 
.  of  powder  in  1  giU  of  alcohol,  and  add  12  gallons  of  water. 

6.  Decoction.  Whole  fiowcr-heads  are  treated  to  boiling 
water  and  the  liquid  is  covered  to  prevent  evaporation. 
Boiling  the  liquid  destroys  its  value. 

7.  Water  extract.  Pour  2  quarts  hot  water  through  about 
a  half  pound  of  pyi'ethrum,  held  in  a  coarse  bag,  and  then 
add  cold  water  enough  to  make  2  gallons,  and  it  is  well  to 
stir  in  the  powder  itself.  For  aphis  and  cabbage-worms. 
It  will  keep  but  a  few  days.  Or  the  extract  can  be  made  as 
follows :  Make  a  paste  of  2  tablespoonfuls  of  pyrethrum  by 
adding  water.  Stir  this  into  2  gallons  of  water  and  apply 
with  a  fine  nozzle.    This  is  recommended  for  the  rose-chafer. 

8.  Pyrethro-kerosene  emulsion.  See  under  Kerosene  emul- 
sion. 


14  The  Horticulturisf  s  Rule- Book. 

Pyrethrum  (Buhach),  continued. 

Good  insect-powder  can  be  made  from  Pyrethrum  roseum, 
and  probably  also  from  P.  cineraricefoUum,  which  is  grown  in 
the  home  garden. 

Quassia.— Boil  4  ounces  of  quassia  chips  10  minutes  in  a  gallon 
of  water ;  strain  off  the  chips  and  add  4  ounces  of  soft  water, 
which  should  be  stirred  as  it  cools.  Apply  with  syringe  or 
brush.  Ten  or  fifteen  minutes  after  it  has  been  applied, 
give  the  plant  a  good  syringing  with  clean  water.  For  plant- 
lice. 

"Eesin  soap.— Ingredients  for  one  barrel  of  50  gallons :  10  pounds 
caustic  soda,  98  per  cent. ;  10  pounds  potash ;  40  pounds  tal- 
low ;  40  pounds  resin.  First. — Dissolve  the  potash  and  soda 
in  10  gallons  of  water.  When  dissolved,  place  the  whole 
amount  in  the  barrel  to  be  used.  Second. — Dissolve  the  tal- 
low and  resin  together.  When  dissolved,  add  the  same  to 
the  potash  and  soda  in  the  barrel,  and  stir  well  for  five  min- 
utes or  so.  Leave  standing  for  about  two  hours ;  then  fill 
up  with  water,  stirring  w^ell  as  every  bucket  of  water  goes 
in.  Use  the  following  day,  1  pound  to  the  gallon  of  water. 
Apply  warm.  For  scale  on  deciduous  trees  in  summer 
(Calif  ornian.) 

Resin  and  fish-oil  soap.— 20  pounds  of  resin,  1  gallon  of  fish-oil,  8 
pounds  of  caustic  soda,  and  enough  water  to  make  100  gal- 
lons. The  caustic  soda  is  first  dissolved  in  about  16  gallons 
of  water,  after  which  }4  of  the  solution  is  taken  out  and  the 
resin  added  to  that  remaining  in  the  kettle.  When  all  the 
resin  is  dissolved,  the  fish-oil  is  added  to  it  and  the  whole 
thoroughly  stirred,  after  which  the  balance  of  the  caustic 
soda  solution  is  added  very  slowly  and  boiled  for  about  an 
hour,  or  until  it  will  readily  mix  with  water.  Use  an  iron 
kettle.    For  scale  insects  on  orange  and  olive.    (Calif ornian.) 

Kesin,  soda  and  tallow  soap.— Resin  2  pounds,  caustic  soda  1 
pound,  tallow  1  pound.  Mix  resin  and  soda,  boil  about  30 
minutes  and  then  add  tallow.  For  use,  add  2  gallons  water 
to  a  pint.    Used  in  spray  for  scale. 

Resin  and  petroleum  soap.— Water,  100  gals. ;  resin,  17^  pounds ; 
soda  (60  per  cent.),  7  pounds;  fish-oil,  3  pounds;  petroleum, 
2  pounds.  The  resin,  soda  and  fish-oil,  with  20  gallons  water, 
are  boiled  together  for  four  hours,  when  the  kerosene  is 


Insecticides,  15 

Resin  and  petroleum  soap,  continued. 

added  and  the  whole  is  thoroughly  stirred.  While  hot,  place 
in  a  barrel  and  add  the  remaining  80  gallons  water,  and 
emulsify  by  thorough  stirring.     For  scale  on  citrus-trees. 

Salt  and  lime  wash. — 25  pounds  of  lime  (unslaked),  20  pounds  of 
sulphur,  15  pounds  of  salt,  60  gallons  of  water.  To  mix  the 
above,  take  10  pounds  of  lime,  20  pounds  of  sulphur,  and  20 
gallons  of  water.  Boil  until  the  sulphur  is  thoroughly  dis- 
solved. Take  the  remainder — 15  pounds  of  lime  and  15 
pounds  of  salt-slack — and  add  enough  of  water  to  make  the 
whole  60  gallons.  Strain  and  spray  on  the  trees  when  milk- 
warm  or  somewhat  warmer.  This  can  be  applied  when  the 
foliage  is  off  the  tree,  and  will  have  no  injurious  effects  what- 
ever on  the  fruit-buds  or  the  tree  itself.  For  scale  on  decidu- 
ous trees  in  winter.     (Calif ornian.) 

Soap  and  arsenites. — Yellow  soap,  4  pounds,  which  is  dissolved  in 
1  gallon  of  hot  water ;  add  4  ounces  of  London  purple  or 
Paris  green,  mix,  and  dilute  with  50  gallons  of  hot  water. 
For  plant-lice. 

Soap  and  lime  wash. — 5  pounds  potash,  5  pounds  lard  stirred  in 
5  gallons  of  boiling  water ;  1  peck  quicklime  slaked  in  5  gal- 
Ions  of  boiling  water,  and  mixed  while  hot  with  the  potash 
and  lard  mixture.  Dilute  by  adding  2  gallons  of  boiling 
water  for  each  gallon  of  the  mixture.  It  will  keep  indefin- 
itely.   For  preventing  the  attacks  of  borers. 

Soap  and  soda  wash. — To  soft  soap  add  a  strong  solution  of  com- 
mon washing-soda,  until  the  mixture  becomes  a  thick  paint. 

Soap  and  tobacco. — Dissolve  8  pounds  of  the  best  soft  soap  in  12 
gallons  of  rain-water,  and  when  cold  add  1  gallon  of  strong 
tobacco  liquor.    For  plant-lice. 

Soap,  fish-oil.— Good  potash  13-6,1  pound;  fish-oil,  3  pints;  soft 
water,  3  gallons.  Dissolve  the  l5^e  in  the  wat^r,  and  when 
brought  to  a  boil,  add  the  oil.  Boil  about  two  hours.  When 
cold,  it  can  be  cut  into  cakes.  For  use,  put  the  soap  in 
enough  hot  water  to  dissolve  or  cut  it,  and  then  6  to  8  gallons 
water  to  a  pound  of  soap.    For  aphis. 

Soda  and  aloes. — Dissolve  2  pounds  of  washing-soda  and  1  ounce 
of  bitter  Barbadoes  aloes,  and  when  cold  add  1  gallon  of 
water.  Dip  the  plants  into  the  solution,  and  lay  them  on 
their  sides  for  a  short  time,  and  the  insects  will  drop  oft'. 


1 6  The  Horticulturisf  s  Rule- Book. 

Soda  and  aloes,  continued. 

Syringe  the  plants  with  clean,  tepid  water,  and  return  to  the 
house.    For  plant-lice. 

Soda  and  resin  wash. — Sal-soda,  3  pounds,  added  to  1  pint  of  hot 
water;  add  slowly  4  pounds  of  resin,  and  gradually  add  3 
pints  of  hot  water.  Dilute  to  5  gallons.  For  scale  insects ; 
also  recommended  for  curculio. 

Soda  and  whale-oil  soap  wash. — Dissolve  25  pounds  sal-soda  in  25 
gallons  water  and  heat  to  boiling,  at  which  time  add  1%  gal- 
lons whale-oil  soap.  Used  as  a  winter  wash  for  scale. 
Apply  at  a  temperature  of  about  130°  Fahr. 

Soda  wash.— Dissolve  y^  pound  of  common  washing-soda  in  a 
pail  of  water.    For  scale  and  borers. 

Sulphide  of  soda  wash  (Hilgard's). — Dissolve  30  pounds  of  whale- 
oil  soap  in  60  gallons  of  water,  by  heating  the  two  together 
thoroughly.  Then  boil  3  pounds  of  American  concentrated 
lye  with  6  pounds  of  sulphur  and  2  gallons  of  water.  When 
thoroughly  dissolved  it  is  a  dark  brown  liquid,  chemically 
called  sulphide  of  soda.  Mix  the  two — the  soap  and  the  sul- 
phide— well,  and  allow  them  to  boil  half  an  hour.  Then  add 
about  90  gallons  of  water  to  the  mixture,  and  it  is  ready  for 
use.  Apply  it  warm,  by  means  of  a  spray-pump.  Used 
warm,  its  effect  is  better  and  less  material  is  required  than 
when  cold.  For  scale  on  deciduous  trees  in  sunmier.  (Cali- 
foruian.) 

Sulphur. — Fumes  of  sulphur  is  destructive  to  insects,  but 
should  be  carefully  used  or  plants  will  be  injured.  For 
gTeenhouse  use,  few  insecticides  are  superior.  The  sulphur 
should  be  evaporated  over  an  oil-stove,  until  the  room  is 
"  filled  with  the  vapor.  The  sulphur  should  never  be  burned, 
as  burning  sulphur  kills  plants. 

Sulphur  and  snuff.— 1  pound  of  flowers  of  sulphur,  1  pound  of 
Scotch  snuff,  1  pound  of  quicklime,  yi  pound  of  lamp-black, 
1  pound  of  soft  soap,  with  sufficient  water  to  make  them  into 
the  consistency  of  paint.  Wash  every  branch,  from  the 
grounds  upwards,  with  a  common  paint-brush  before  the 
blossom-buds  begin  to  swell.    For  plant-lice. 

Sulphur  and  whale-oil  soap  wash. — Boil  \yi  gallons  of  water,  add 
%  pound  of  sulphur  and  boil  15  minutes.  To  this  add  a 
pound  of  whale-oil  soap  and  boil  for  five  minutes.    Let  stand 


Insecticides.  1 7 

Solphur  and  whale-oil  soap  wash,  continued. 

for  a  week.  When  wanted  for  use,  mix  1  pound  of  the  com- 
pound to  a  gallon  of  water,  and  apply  as  a  spray  at  a  tem- 
perature of  130°  Fahrenheit.  Used  for  various  burrowing 
larvae,  as  the  gooseberry  fruit-worm  and  the  currant  borer, 
as  a  repellent. 

Tobacco.— Used  in  the  following  ways : 

1.  Tobacco-water,  used  with  whale-oil  soap. 

2.  Dust. 

3.  Fumes.    Burn  dampened  tobacco  stems. 

4.  Nicotyl.  Steep  tobacco-stems  in  water  and  evaporate 
the  water. 

5.  Tea,  or  common  decoction.  Boil  the  stems  or  dust 
thoroughly,  and  strain.  Then  add  cold  water  until  the  decoc- 
tion contains  2  gallons  of  liquid  to  1  pound  of  tobacco. 

Whale-oil  soap.— 1  pound  whale-oil  soap  to  5  gallons  of  water. 
For  mealy  bugs  and  similar  insects.  It  will  injure  some  ten- 
der plants. 

White  hellebore. — A  light  brown  powder  made  from  the  roots  of 
the  white  hellebore  plant  {Verairum  album),  one  of  the  lily 
family.  It  is  applied  both  dry  and  in  water.  In  the  dry 
state,  it  is  usually  applied  without  dilution,  although  the 
addition  of  a  little  flour  will  render  it  more  adhesive.  In 
water,  1  ounce  of  the  poison  is  mixed  with  3  gallons.  Helle- 
bore soon  loses  its  strength,  and  a  fresh  article  should  always 
be  demanded.    It  is  much  less  poisonous  than  the  arsenites. 


The  advent  of  spraying  marks  a  new  era  in 
horticulture. 


CHAPTER  II. 


Injurious   Insects,   with   Remedies  and  Preven 

TIVES. 

Angleworm  or  Earthworm.     The  common  angleworm  often  do- 
stroys  greenhouse  plants  by  its  burrowing.     It  is  some- 
times annoying  in  gardens  also. 
Remedy. — Lime-water  applied  to  the  soil. 
Aphides  or  Plant-Lice,  and  Bark-Lice.    Minute  insects  of  various 
kinds,  feeding  upon  the  tender  parts  of  many  plants. 

Remedies. — Kerosene  emulsion.  Kerosene-and-water  emul- 
sion. Hot  water  (about  125°).  Coal-tar  fumes.  Potash. 
Fish-oil  soap.  Tobacco-water,  and  fumes.  Alcoholic  and 
water  extracts  of  pyre  thrum.  Hughes'  fir-tree  oil, 
Apple.  Apple-Bucculatrix  {Bucculatrix  pomifoliella,  Clemens). 
— A  minute  yellow  or  green  larva  feeding  upon  the  upper 
surface  of  the  leaves,  causing  the  lower  surface  to  turn 
brown.  The  cocoons  are  white  and  slender  and  are  laid  side 
by  side  upon  the  under  sides  of  twigs,  where  they  are 
conspicuous  in  winter. 

Remedies. — Burn  cocoons  in  winter  or  apply  strong  kero- 
sene emulsion  to  them.    Arsenites  for  the  larvae  in  summer. 
Apple-Curculio    {Aiitlionomus    quadriuibbus,    Say). — A    soft 
white  grub,  about  half  an  inch  long,  living  in  the  fruit. 
Remedy. — Arsenites,  as  for  codlin-moth. 
Apple  Flea-Beetle  {Graptodcra  foliacea,  Lee). — Beetle,  one- 
fifth  inch  or  less  long,  feeding  upon  leaves. 
Remedy. — Arsenites. 
Apple-Maggot  {Trypeta  pomonella,  Walsh). — Maggot;  infests 
fall  apples  mostly,  occasionally  attacks  winter  fruit.     It 
tunnels  apples  through  and  through,  causing  the  fruit  to  fall 
to  the  earth. 

(i8) 


Injurious  Insects.  19 

Apple  (Apple-Magfgfot),  continued. 

Remedies. — Immediately  destroy  all  infested  fruit,  pomace, 
and  apple-waste  from  the  house.  If  the  orchard  is  in  sod, 
burn  the  grass  under  the  trees  in  fall  or  spring ;  if  in  culti- 
vation, spade  or  plow  up  the  soil  under  the  trees  in  spring. 
Orchards  in  sandy  soil  and  with  a  southern  exposure  are 
most  affected. 
Bark-Louse  (Mytilaspis  pofnorum,  Bouch6). — Minute  insects 
feeding  upon  the  tender  shoots.  Later  in  the  season  the 
insect  secretes  a  scale  under  which  it  lives.  The  old  scales 
become  conspicuous  on  the  twigs. 

Preventive.— Pliini  unaffected  trees. 

Remedies. — Spray  with  kerosene  emulsion,  carbolic-acid 
wash,  soda  wash,  or  •oap-and-soda  wash,  when  shoots  start. 
Wash  limbs  with  soap-suds  or  lye  water.    Scrape  off  lice. 
Blight.— See  under  Pear  in  Chapter  IV. 

Bud-Moth    (Tmetocera    ocellana,    Pabr.)— A    minute   insect, 
destroying  the  flower-buds  of  apples,  pears,  plums,  etc. 

Bemedy.— Arsenites  applied  when  the  buds  begin  to  swell. 
and  again  ten  days  later.    Burn  infested  leaves  in  the  fall. 
Caxker-Wobm  {Anisopteryx  vernata,  Peck). — Larva;  a  "meas- 
uring worm"  an  inch  long,  dark  and  variously  striped,  feed- 
ing upon  the  leaves. 

Preventive. — Bands  smeared  with  tar  or  printer's  ink,  or 
similar  devices,  placed  about  the  trunk  of  the  tree  to  pre- 
vent the  wingless  females  from  climbing. 

Remedies.— Arsenites.    Jar  the  worms  into  straw,  and  burn 
the  straw. 
CoDLiN-MoTH   {Carpocapsa  pomoneUa,   Linn). — Larva,   three- 
fourths  inch  long,  pinkish,  feeding  in  fruit ;  two  broods. 

Remedies. — Arsenites  applied  just  after  the  blossoms  fall 
and  again  ten  days  or  two  weeks  later.  Swine  in  the 
orchard.  Cloth  band  about  the  trunk  of  the  tree,  which  is 
examined  at  intervals  of  seven  to  nine  days  for  larvte  and 
chrysalids. 
Pall  Web-Worm  {Hyphantria  textor,  Harris).— Hairy  larvae, 
about  an  inch  long,  varying  from  gray  to  pale  yellow  or 
bluish  black,  feeding  upon  the  leaves  of  many  trees,  feeding 
in  tents  or  webs. 

jRemedi/.— Destroy  by  burning  the  webs,  or  removing  them 
and  crushing  the  larvae. 


20  The    Horticulturisf  s   Rule- Book. 

Apple,  continued. 
Flat-headed  Borer  (Chrysobothi^s  femorata,  Fabr,). — Larva 
about  an  incli  long,  flesh-colored,  the  third  segment  ("head") 
greatly  enlarged ;  boring  under  the  bark  and  sometimes  into 
the  wood. 

Preventive. — Soap  and  carbolic-acid  washes  applied  early  in 
June  and  July.    Keep  trees  vigorous. 

Remedies. — Dig  out  the  borers.    Encourage  woodpeckers.  - 
Pear  Twkj-Beetle. — See  under  Pear. 

Plum-Curculio    (Conotrachelus    nenuphar,    Herbst). — Beetle; 
punctures  the  fruit  and  causes  it  to  become  distorted. 

jRemedies.— Arsenites.  Plant  plum  trees  at  intervals 
throughout  the  orchard  to  attract  the  curculio,  and  fight 
the  insects  on  the  plums.  See  unde*  Plum  . 
Root-Louse  {Schizoneura  lanigera,  Hausm.). — A  minute  insect 
which  causes  swelling  upon  the  roots  of  the  tree,  impairing 
its  vitality,  or  killing  it.  In  another  form  the  insect  attacks 
the  young  branches.  It  is  then  conspicuous  from  its  cottony 
covering.    The  treatment  for  aphis  is  useful  here. 

jRemedy.— Hot  water.  Scalding  hot  water  may  be  poured 
on  the  bare  roots  of  trees  standing  in  the  soil,  or  nursery 
stock  may  be  dipped  in  water  having  a  temperature  of  120° 
to  150°.  Kerosene  emulsion  or  tobacco  dug  in  about  the  tree. 
Infested  nursery  trees  should  be  dipped  in  kerosene  emul- 
sion. Mulching  about  trees  is  said  to  bring  the  lice  nearer 
the  surface. 
Rose-Beetle. — See  under  Rose.  There  is  practically  no 
remedy  for  the  rose-beetle  on  large  orchard  trees.  Ravages 
can  be  prevented,  to  a  large  extent,  by  the  lime  spray  and 
the  emulsions. 
Round-headed  Borers  {Saper da  Candida  and  S.  cretata,  Fabr.). 
— Larva,  an  inch  long  when  mature ;  bores  into  the  tree.  It 
remains  in  the  larval  state  three  years. 

Preventive.— Soap  and  carbolic-acid  washes  applied  early  in 
June  and  July. 

Remedies. — Dig  out  borers  in  the  fall.    Insert  a  wire  into 
the  holes. 
Text-Caterpillars  (Clisiocampa  Americana  and  C.  sylvatica, 
Harris) . — Larva,  nearly  two  inches  long,  spotted  and  striped 
with  jT-ellow,  white  and  black ;  feeding  upon  the  leaves. 


Injurious   Insects  21 

Apple  (Tent  Caterpillars)  continued. 

Remedies. — Arsenites,  as  for  codlin-moth.     Burn  out  nests 
with  torch.     Pick  off  egg-masses  from  twigs  during  winter 
and  spring. 
Tussock-Moth  {Oruyia  leucostiyma,  Sm.  and  Abb.). — A  hand- 
some caterpillar,  an  inch  long,  bright  yellow  with  red  mark- 
ings, very  hairy.    Eats  the  leaves. 
Remedy. — Arsenites . 
Twig-Borer  (Amphicemis  (Bostrichus)  bicaudatus,  Say), — Beetle, 
three-eighths  inch  long,  cylindrical  and  dark  brown,  boring 
into  twigs  of  apple,  pear  and  other  trees.    The  beetle  enters 
just  above  a  bud. 
Remedy. — Burn  the  twigs.    Catch  insects  in  mating  season, 
Twig-Pruners  {ElapMdion  parallelum,  Newm,,  and  E.  villosumy 
Pabr.). — Yellowish  white  larvae,   about  a  half  inch  long, 
boring  into  young  twigs,  causing  them  to  die  and  break  off. 
Remedy. — Burn  the  twigs. 
Apricot.    Pear  Twig-Beetle.    See  under  Pear. 

Plum  Curculio.    See  under  Plum. 
Asparagus.     Asparagus-Beetle    {Crioceris    asparagi,    Linn,). — 
Beetle,  less  than  one-fourth  inch  in  length,  yellow,  red  and 
shining  black,  with  conspicuous  ornamentation,  feeding  upon  . 
the  tender  shoots.     Larva  feeds  upon  the  leaves  and  tender 
bark. 

Remedies. — Freshly  slaked  lime  dusted  on  before  the  dew 
has  disappeared  in  the  morning.  Poultry.  Draw  the  Rand 
over  the  stalks  from  bottom  to  top,  crushing  the  beetles; 
repeating  two  or  three  times  during  the  season  will  keep 
them  in  check. 
Aster.  Aster- Worm.  A  small  larva  boring  in  the  stem  of  gar- 
den asters  about  the  time  they  begin  to  flower,  causing  the 
heads  to  droop. 

No  remedy  is  known,  but  all  infested  stalks  should  be 
burned. 
Bean.  Bean-Weevil  or  Bean-Bug  {Bruchus  obsoletus,  Say), — 
Closely  resembles  the  pea-weevil,  which  see  for  description 
and  remedies. 
Bag-Worm  or  Basket-Worm  {Thyridopteryx  ephemercEformis,  Haw) , 
— Larva  working  in  singular  dependent  bags,  and  feeding 
upon  many  kinds  of  trees,  both  evergreen  and  deciduous. 


22  The   Horticulturisf  s   Rule- Book. 

Bag-Worm  or  Basket-Worm,  continued. 

In  winter  the  bags,  empty  or  containing  eggs,  are  conspicu- 
ous, hanging  from  the  branches. 
Remedies. — Hand-picking.    Arsenites. 
Bark-Lice.    See  under  Aphides. 
Blackberry.     Caxe-Borer.    See  under  Raspberry. 
Root  Gall-Flt.    See  under  Raspberry. 
Snowy  Cricket.    See  under  Raspberry. 
Blister-Beetle  {Lytta,  two  or  three  species).    Soft-shelled,  long- 
necked  and  slim  black  or  gray  spry  beetles,  feeding  upon  the 
^leaves  of  many  trees  and  garden  plants. 
Remedies. — Arsenites.     Jarring. 
Cabbage.     Cabbage- Worm,  or  Cabbage-Butterfly  {Pieris  rapcB, 
Linn.). — Larva  an  inch  long,  green  with  yellow  and  black 
markings,  feeding  upon  the  heads ;  two  broods. 

Remedies. — Pyrethrum  mixed  with  flour,  or  in  water  decoc- 
tion. Hot  water  (temperature  from  140°  to  160°),  applied 
forcibly  in  a  fine  spray.  Kerosene  emulsion.  Lye  wash.  Ar- 
senites :  1  ounce  Paris  green  or  London  purple  to  6  pounds 
flour,  applied  while  the  plant  is  wet ;  should  not  be  used  after 
the  plant  begins  to  head.  Salt  water  sprinkled  into  the 
head.  Pyrethrum,  dry  or  in  decoction. 
Green  Lettuce- Worm.  See  under  Lettuce. 
Harlequin  Cabbage-Bug  (StracMa  Mstrionica,  Hahn). — Bug" 
about  a  half  inch  long,  gaudily  colored  with  orange  dots  and 
stripes  over  a  blue-black  ground,  feeding  upon  cabbage ;  two 
to  six  broods. 

Remedies. — Hand-picking.  Place  blocks  about  the  patch 
and  the  bugs  will  collect  under  them.  In  the  fall  make  smaE 
piles  of  the  rubbish  in  the  patch  and  burn  them  at  the  ap- 
proach of  winter. 
Maggot  {Anthomyia  brassiccB,  Bouch6) . — A  minute  white  mag- 
got, the  larva  of  a  small  fly,  eating  into  the  cro"wn  and  roots 
of  young  cabbage  and  cauliflower  and  turnip  plants. 

Remedies. — There  are  no  remedies  specific  for  the  pest ;  the 
best  one  can  do  is  to  remove  the  plantation  to  a  new  plot,  as 
far  away  as  possible,  each  year.  When  the  plants  are  in  a 
hotbed,  maggots  can  be  destroyed  by  inserting  bisulphide 
of  carbon  into  the  soil.  Puddle  the  plants  when  transplant- 
ing in  a  puddle  to  which  sulphur  has  been  added,  and 
sprinkle  sulphur  about  the  plants  aftei"  they  are  set.    Liquid 


Injuriotis   Insects.  23 

Cabbag:e,  continned. 

manure  applied  to  the  plants  is  said   to  drive  away  the 
insects.    All  infested  plants  should  be  bui-ned. 

The  "club-root"  of  cabbage  is  not  due  to  the  maggot,  but 
to  a  fungus  (which  see) . 
Carrot.    Parsley- Worm.    See  under  Parsley. 
Cauliflower.    Cauliflower  or  Cabbage- Worm,    See  under  Cab- 
bage. 
Maggot.    See  under  Cabbage. 
Celery.    Green  Lettuce-Worm.    See  under  Lettuce. 

Parsley- Worm.    See  under  Parsley. 
Cherry.    Canker- Worm.    See  under  Apple. 
Plum-Curculio.    See  under  Plum. 
Rose-Beetle.    See  under  Rose  and  Apple. 
Slug    {Selandria   cerasi,  Peck)  .—Larva,   one-half   inch   long, 
blackish  and  slimy,  feeding  upon  the  leaves ;  two  broods. 

Remedies.— Arsenites,  for  the  second  brood  (which  usually 
appears  after  the  fruit  is  off) ,  and  for  the  first  brood  if  the 
trees  are  not  bearing.    Hellebore  in  water.     Pyrethrum. 
Air-slaked  lime.    Road-dust.    Catch  mature  insects  by  jarr- 
ing trees  late  in  the  evening  or  early  in  the  morning. 
dirysanthemum.    Green  Lettuce-Worm.    See  under  Lettuce. 
Chrysanthemum  Leaf-Miner  {Oscinis  sp.). — Works  upon  the 
leaves  of  the  chi'ysanthemum. 
Remedy. — Hand-picking. 
Corn.    Bud- Worm.    See  Tomato  Fruit- Worm. 
CoRNSTALK-BoRER  {Helotropha  atra,  Get.).— Larva,  gray  and 
striped,  boring  into  the  stalk. 
Remedies.— See  Cut- Worm. 
Grain- Aphodius   {Ajyhodius   granarius,   Linn.). — Beetle,    one- 
eighth  inch  long,  shining  black,  feeding  on  kernels  in  the 
ground  before  they  sprout. 

Remedi/.— Soak  kernels  in  water,  then  stir  them  in  a  mix- 
ture of  Paris  green,  one  part  to  twenty  parts  of  flour. 
Cranberry.    Cranberry- Aphis  or  Louse. 

Remedy. — Flooding.    See  also  under  Aphides. 
Fire- Worm,  or  Cranberry- Worm  {Phopobotavacciniana,  Pack- 
ard) . — Small  larva,  green,  feeding  upon  the  shoots  and  young 
leaves,  drawing  them  together  by  silken  threads ;  two  broods. 
Remedies. — Flooding  for  two  or  three  days.     Arsenites. 
Attract  the  moths  to  fires  at  night. 


24  T^h^   Horticulturisf s   Rule- Book. 

Cranberry,  continued. 
Cranberry  Saw-Fly  (Pristiphoi-a  identidem,  Norton). — Larva, 
less  than  one-half  inch  long,   greenish,   feeding  upon  the 
leaves ;  two  broods. 
Eemcdy.— Flooding.     Probably  hellebore  and  arsenites. 
Weevil  (Anthonomous  suturalis,  Lee). — Beetle,  less  than  one- 
fourth  inch  long ;  cuts  off  the  flower-buds. 
Remedy. — Flooding. 
Cucumber.      Cucumber    or    Pickxe-Worm    {Edioptis    nitidalis, 
Cram.) — Larva,  about  an  inch  long,  yellowish  white,  tinged 
with  green,  boring  into  cucumbers ;  two  broods. 

Remedies, — Hand-picking  at  the  first  appearance  of  the 
caterpillars.    Destroy  infested  fruits. 
Melon-Worm. — See  under  Melon. 

Spotted  Cucumber-Beetle  (Diabrotica  12-punctata,  Oliv.). — 
Beetle,  yellowish  and  black-spotted,  about  one-foui'th  inch 
long,  feeding  upon  the  leaves  and  fruit.  Sometimes  attacks 
fruit-trees,  and  the  larva  may  injure  roots  of  corn. 
Remedy. — Same  as  for  Striped  Cucumber-Beetle. 
Striped  Cucumber-Beetle  {Diabrotica  vittata^Fahr.). — Beetle 
one-fourth  inch  long,  yellow  with  black  stripes,  feeding  on 
leaves.  Larva,  one-eighth  inch  long  and  size  of  a  pin,  feed- 
ing on  roots ;  two  broods. 

Preventive.— Chesi-p  boxes  covered  with  thin  muslin  placed 
over  young  plants ;  or  screens  of  mosquito -netting. 

Remedies. — Arsenites  in  flour.  Ashes,  lime,  plaster  or  fine 
road-dust  sprinkled  on  the  plants  every  two  or  three  days 
when  they  are  wet.  Air-slaked  lime.  Plaster  and  kerosene. 
Tobacco  powder,  applied  liberally.  Apply  remedies  when 
dew  is  on,  and  see  that  it  strikes  the  under  side  of  the  leaves. 
Currant.  Borer  {^ger^  tipuliforviis,  Linn.). — A  whitish  larva, 
boring  in  the  canes  of  currants,  and  sometimes  of  goose- 
berries.   The  larva  remains  in  the  cane  over  winter. 

Remedy.— In  fall  and  early  spring  cut  and  burn  all  affected 
canes.  These  canes  are  distinguished  before  cutting  by  lack 
of  vigor,  and  by  limberness. 
Currant- Worm,  or  Currant  and  Gooseberry  Saw-Fly  {Ne- 
mattis  ventricosus,  IQug)  .—Larva,  about  three-fourths  inch 
long,  yellow  green,  feeding  upon  the  leaves  of  red  and  white 
varieties ;  two  to  four  broods. 

Remedies.— White  hellebore,  applied  early.    Arsenites  for 
the  early  brood- 


Injurious   Insects.  25 

Cnrrant,  continued. 

CuRKANT  Measuring  or  Span-Worm  {Eufitchia  (Abraxis) 
ribearia,  Fitch.). — Larva  somewhat  over  an  inch  long,  with 
stripes  and  dotted  with  yellow  or  black,  feeding  upon  the 
leaves. 

Remedies. — Hellebore,  applied  stronger  than  for  currant 
worm.  Arsenites,  if  the  bushes  are  not  bearing.  Hand 
picking. 

Four-striped  Plant-Bug  (Pc&cilocapsus  Uneatiis,  Fabr.).— A 
bright  yellow  black-striped  bug  about  one-third  of  an  inch 
long,  puncturing  the  young  leaves  and  shoots  of  many  plants. 
Bemedy. — Jarring  early  in  the  morning.     Kerosene  emul- 
sion when  the  bugs  are  young. 

Green  Leaf-Hopper  {Empoa  albopicia,  Forbes). — Small  insect 
working  upon  the  under  surface  of  currant  and  gooseberry 
leaves.    Also  upon  the  apple. 
Eemedj/.— Pyrethrum.    Kerosene  emulsion. 

Green  Leaf-Hopper  (Typlocyha  albopicta,  Forbes). — A  pale 
green  insect  about  one-tenth  inch  long,  feeding  upon  leaves 
of  currants  and  gooseberries,  also  upon  the  apple,  causing 
white  spots  to  appear  upon  the  upper  surfaces. 

Remedies. — Pyrethrum,  applied  before  the  insects  are  fully 
grown.    Tobacco  dust. 
Cut-Worm.    Various  species  of  Agrotis  and  related  genera.    Soft 
brown  or  gray  worms,  of  various  kinds,  feeding  upon  the 
roots,  crown,  or  even  the  tops  of  plants. 

Preventives  and  Remedies. — Encircle  the  stem  of  the  plant 
with  heavy  paper  or  tin.  Arsenites  sprinkled  upon  small 
bunches  of  fresh  grass  or  clover,  which  are  scattered  at 
short  intervals  about  the  garden  towards  evening.  They 
will  often  collect  under  boards  or  blocks.  Arsenites  mixed 
with  shorts,  and  placed  about  the  plants.  Make  two  or 
three  deep  holes  by  the  side  of  the  plant  with  a  pointed  stick ; 
the  worms  will  fall  in  and  cannot  escape.  Dig  them  out. 
Plow  infested  land  in  fall  to  give  birds  a  chance  to  find  the 
worms.  Kainit  or  muriate  of  potash  applied  liberally  as  a 
fertilizer  has  been  advised. 
Cut-Worm,  Climbing.  Several  species  of  Agrotis.  The  worms 
climb  small  trees  of  various  kinds  at  night  and  eat  out 
the  buds. 


26  The  HorticulturisV  s  Rule- Book. 

Cut-worm,  CllmlJiilg,  continued. 

Preventive. — Place  strips  of  tin  or  bands  of  tar  about  the 
trunk.     Dig  a  small  circular  bole,  with  perpendicular  sides, 
about  the  base  of  the  tree. 
Remedies .  — Arsenites .    Hellebore, 

Dahlia.    Four-stkiped  Plant-Bug. — See  under  Currant. 
Green  Lettuce-Worm.— See  under  Lettuce. 

Deutzia.    Four-Striped  Plant-Bug. — See  under  Currant. 

Egg-Plant.    Potato-Beetle. — See  under  Potato. 

Elm.     Elm  Flea-Beetle    {Gallcnica  xantho-melocna,  Schr.). — A 
small  beetle,  imported  from  Europe,  which  causes  great 
devastation  in  some  of   the  eastern  states  by  eating  the 
green  matter  from  elm-leaves,  causing  the  trees  to  appear  as 
if  scorched. 
Remedy. — Arsenites  with  kerosene  emulsion. 
Canker-Worm. — See  under  Apple. 
Willow- Worm. — See  under  Willow, 

Endive.     Green  Lettuce- Worm.— See  under  Lettuce. 

Flea-Beetle  (Phyllotreta  vittata,  Fabr. ;  Haltica  striolata,  Harris) . 
— A  minute  black-spotted  beetle,  feeding  upon  many  plants, 
as  turnip,  cabbage,  radish,  mustard,  potato,  strawberry 
and  stock§.  It  jumps  upon  being  disturbed.  Closely  related 
species  attack  various  plants.  Very  destructive  to  plants 
which  are  just  appearing  above  the  sui'face. 

Remedies.— There  are  no  reliable  preventives  or  remedies. 
Arsenites,  applied  dry  while  the  dew  is  on,  are  good.  Land 
plaster,  lime,  ashes,  and  tobacco-dust,  applied  in  the  same 
manner,  are  more  or  less  effective.  Tobacco  decoction  used 
very  liberally.  Wood-ashes  applied  liberally.  Sometimes 
ashes  injure  the  plants.  Kerosene  emulsion  throwTi  with 
great  force  against  the  plants.  Calomel,  mixed  with  jBlour 
or  ashes.    The  same  remedies  apply  to  other  flea-beetles. 

Gipsy-Moth  {Ocneria  dispar,  Linn.)— Larva,  nearly  two  inches 
long  when  mature,  very  hairy,  nearly  black,  with  a  yellow 
stripe  along  back  and  sides.  Devour  many  kinds  of  foliage. 
Confined  to  eastern  Massachusetts,  where  it  was  introduced 
from  Europe  about  1869.  It  is  feared  that  it  will  become  a 
serious  pest. 

Remedy, — Spray  with  arsenites  as  soon  as  the  caterpillars 
hatch  in  the  spring. 


hijurious  Insects.  27 

Gooseberry.    Cukrant-Bokek. — See  under  Currant. 
CuRKANT  Measuring  or  Span- Worm. — See  under  Currant. 
Pour- STRIPED  Plaxt-Bug. — See  under  Currant. 
Gooseberry  or  Currant- Worm. — See  under  Currant. 
Gooseberry   Fruit- Worm   (Dakruma  convolutclla,   Hubn.). — 
Larva,  about  three-fourtlis  incb  long,  greenish  or  yellowish, 
feeding  in  the  berry,  causing  it  to  ripen  prematurely. 

P/-ei?e?ititie.— Spray  j  ust  before  eggs  are  laid  with  the  sulphur 
and  whale-oil  soap  wash. 

Remedies. — Destroy  affected    berries.      Clean   cultivation. 
Poultry. 
Green  Leaf-Hopper. — See  under  Currant. 
Grape.    Apple-tree  Borer. — See  under  Apple. 
Grape-berry  Worm  (Eudemis  hotrana,  Schiff.). — Larva,  about 
one-fourth  inch  long,  feeding  in  the  beny,  often  securing 
three  or  four  together  in  a  web;  two  broods. 

Remedy. — Burn  the  affected  berries  before  the  larva 
escapes. 
Grape-Curculio  {Craponius  incBqualis,  Say.). — Larva  small, 
black  with  a  gi-ayish  tint.  Infests  the  gi'ape  in  June  and 
July,  causing  a  little  black  hole  in  the  skin  and  a  discolora- 
tion of  the  berry  immediately  around  it. 

Remedies. — Jarring  and  remo'^ang  berries.     The  beetle  may 
be  jarred  down  on  sheets,  as  with  the  plum-curculio.     Bag- 
ging the  clusters. 
Grape-seed  Worm  {Isosumavitis,  Saunders). — A  minute  grub, 
living  in  the  seed  of  the  grape  and  causing  it  to  become  dis- 
torted.    The  injured  gi*apes  shrivel. 
Remedy. — Burn  the  affected  fruit. 
Grape-Slug   or  Saw-Fly   (Selandria  vitis,    Harris).— Larva, 
about  one-half  inch  long,  yellowish  green  with  black  points, 
feeding  upon  the  leaves ;  two  broods.   ■ 
Remedies .  — Arsenites .     Hellebore . 
Grape-vine    Fidia    (Fidia   viticida). — Beetle,    resembles    the 
rose-bug,  somewhat  shorter  and  broader.     It  appears  during 
June  and  July,  riddling  the  leaves. 

Remedies. — Jarring  the  trees ;   the  least  jar  is  sulHcient. 
Poultry. 
Grape-vine  Flea-Beetle  {Graptodera  chalybea,  Illig.).— Beetle, 
about  one-fourth  inch  long,  feeding  upon  the  buds  and  ten- 
der shoots  in  early  spring. 


28  The  Horticulturisf  s  Rule- Book. 

Grape  (Grape-vine  Flea-Beetle),  continued. 

Remedies. — Arsenites.     The  beetle  can  be  caught  by  jarring 
on  cold  mornings. 
Grape-vine    Root-Borer    {^^geria   polistiformiSy    Harris). — 
Larva,  one  and  one-half  inch  or  less  long,  working  in  the 
roots. 

Preventive. — Mounding  as  for  the  peach-tree  borer. 

Remedy. — Dig  out  the  borers.  Apply  scalding  water  to  the 
roots. 
Grape-vine  Sphinx  (Darapsa  myron,  Cramer). — A  large  larva» 
two  inches  long  when  mature,  green  with  yellow  spots  and 
stripes,  bearing  a  horn  at  the  posterior  extremity,  feeding 
upon  the  leaves,  and  nipping  off  the  young  clusters  of 
grapes ;  two  broods. 

Remedy.  —Hand-picking. 

There  are  other  large  sphinx  caterpillars  which  feed  upon 
the  foliage  of  the  vine  and  which  are  readily  kept  in  check 
by  hand-picking. 
Phylloxera  {Phylloxera  vastatrix,  Planchon). — A  minute  insec, 
preying  upon  the  roots,  and  in  one  form  causing  galls  upon 
the  leaves. 

Preventive. — ^As  a  rule,  this  insect  is  not  destructive  to 
American  species  of  vines.  Grafting  upon  resistant  stocks 
is  the  most  reliable  method  of  dealing  with  the  insect  yet 
known.  This  precaution  is  undertaken  to  a  large  extent 
in  European  countries,  as  the  European  vine  is  parti  ularl^ 
subject  to  attack. 

Remedies.— There   is    no   reliable   remedy  known.      Burn 
affected  leaves.     Bisulpliide  of  carbon  poured  iu  holes  in  the 
ground,   which  are  quickly  filled,   is   sometimes  effectiv 
Carbolic  acid  and  water  used  in  the  same  way  is  also  recom- 
mended.   Flood  the  vineyard. 
Rose-Beetle.— See  under  Rose. 
Snowy  Cricket.— See  under  Raspberry. 

Thkip  or  Leaf-Hopper  {Erythroneura  vitis,  Harris). — In  vari- 
ous sfages,  one-tenth  inch  or  less  long ;  feeding  on  leaves, 
causing  them  to  appear  scorched. 

Remedies.— Sticky  fly-paper  secured  to  a  stick  and  carried 
over  the  •\dnes,  whiL  another  person  scares  up  the  insects. 
Attract  to  lights  at  ni:  ht.    Kerosene  emulsion.    In  houses, 


Injurious  Insects,  29 

Grape  (Thrip  or  Leaf -Hopper),  continued. 

tobacco  smoke,  pyretlirum  poured  upon  coals  held  under  the 
vines,  syringing  with  tobacco-water  or  soap-suds.  Fumiga- 
tion in  the  field  should  be  done  before  the  insects  develop 
wings— late  in  July  or  in  early  August  (in  the  north) .  Rake 
ground  clean  about  vines  late  in  fall  in  order  to  expose 
insects  to  the  weather.  It  has  been  found  in  California  that 
thrips  can  be  gi'eatly  lessened  by  feeding  off  the  leaves  with 
sheep,  soon  after  the  grapes  are  picked. 

Grasshoppers. — If  these  pests  become  serious,  they  may  be  kept 
in  check  by  the  following  means :  Place  a  tablespoonful  of 
poisonous  bait  by  the  side  of  each  tree  or  vine.  The  bait  is 
made  of  40  pounds  bran,  15  pounds  middlings,  2  gallons 
syrup,  20  pounds  arsenic  ;  mix  with  soft  water.  Costs  25  to 
75  cents  per  acre.    Or  Paris  green  spray  may  bS  used. 

Hollyhock.  Bug  {Orthotylus  delicatus,  Uhl.) . — A  small  green  bug, 
attacking  the  hollyhock  with  great  damage. 

Remedies. — Kerosene  emulsion.  Pyrethro-kerosene  emul- 
sion. 

Lawns.  Ants  (Formica  sp.). — Insects  burrowing  in  the  ground, 
forming  ' '  ant-hills . ' ' 

Remedy. — A  tablespoonful  of  bisulphide  of  carbon  poured 
into  holes  six  inches  deep  and  a  foot  apart,  the  holes  being 
immediately  filled  up. 

Leaf-Crumpler  {Phycis  indigenella,  Zeller) . — Larva,  brown,  wrink- 
led, found  on  the  inside  of  leaves,  which  it  brings  together  in 
masses  and  attaches  them  to  each  other  and  to  the  twigs  by 
means  of  silken  threads.  The  next  season  young  worms 
appear  from  the  mass  and  feed  on  the  new  crop  of  leaves. 
Bemedy.— Gather  the  masses  and  burn  them. 

Lettuce.  Aphis  or  Green-Fly. — A  plant-louse  on  forced  lettuce 
Preventive. — Tobacco  dust  applied  on  the  soil  and  plants  as 
soon  as  the  aphis  makes  its  appearance,  or  even  before. 
Renew  every  two  or  three  weeks  if  necessary.  Fumigate 
mth  tobacco. 
GuEEN  Lettuce-Worm  (Plusia  hrassiccB,  Riley) .—Larva,  some- 
what over  an  inch  long,  pale  green,  with  stripes  of  a  lighter 
color,  feeding  upon  the  leaves  of  many  plants,  a»s  cabbage, 
celery  and  endive. 

Remedy. — Pyrethrum  diluted  with  not  more  than  three 
times  its  bulk  of  flour.    Kerosene  emulsion.     Hot  water. 


30  The   Horticulturist'' e  Rule- Book, 

Lice. — See  Aphides.  • 

May-Beetle  or  May-Bug  (Lnchnostenia  fusca,  Frohl.) — A  large  and 
familiar  brown  beetle,  feeding  upon  the  leaves  of  many 
kinds  of  trees.  The  common  white  grub  is  the  larval  state. 
It  often  does  gi-eat  damage  to  sod  and  to  strawberries. 

Remedies. — For  beetle,  use  arsenites,  orjjar  them  early  in 
the  morning.    For  grubs,  plow  up  the  lawn  so  as  to  expose 
them  to  field-bii-ds  and  poultry,  or  turn  in  hogs. 
Mealy   Bug  (Dactylopius  adonidum,  Lirm.). — A  white  scale-like 
insect  attacking  gre  v    ouse  plants. 

Remedies. — AlcohoLc  decoction  of  pyrethrum.    Knock  them 
off  with  a  hose.    Whale-oil  soap.    Carbolic  acid  and  soap. 
Removing  insects  with  brush  on  tender  plants.     Whiskey, 
applied  with  a  brush.    Fish-brine. 
Melon.    Melon- Worm  (Endioptis  hyalinata,  Linn.) . — Larva,  some 
over  an  inch  long,  j^ellowish  green  and  slightly  hairy,  feed- 
ing on  melon-leaves,  and  eating  holes  into  melons,  cucum- 
bers and  squashes ;  two  or  more  broods. 
Remedy.— Hellebore. 
Spotted  Cucumber-Beetle. — See  under  Cucumber. 
Striped  Cucumber-Beetle. — See  under  Cucumber. 
Squash-vixe  Root-Borer.— See  under  Squash. 
Mite  (Tetranychus  bimaculatus,  Harvey)  .—Much  like  red-spider  in 
size  and  shape,  but  light-colored,  vdth  two  dark  spots  behind. 
Feeds  upon  the  under  side  of  the  leaves  of  many  greenhouse 
plants.    A  very  serious  pest.    Evidently  known  also  as  ' '  Ver- 
bena Mite." 
Remedy.— Hughes^  fir-tree  oil. 
Mushroom.    Mushroom-Flt. — The  larva  bores  through  the  stems 
of  the  mushrooms  before  they  are  full-grown. 

Preventive. — Keep  the  beds  cool  so  that  the  fly  cannot 
develop.  When  the  fly  is  present,  grovi^ing  mushrooms  in 
warfti  weather  is  usually  abandoned. 
Onion.  Maggot  {AnUiomyia  c^pa7~um,  Meigen)  .—Nearly  indis- 
tinguishable from  the  cabbage-maggot,  which  see. 
Orange.  Katydid  {Microcent7iim  retinervis,  Bui'm.). — A  large 
green  grasshopper-like  insect,  feeding  upon  the  foliage.  It 
is  largely  kept  in  check  in  some  localities  by  a  parasitic 
chalcid  fly. 

Remedy. — Collect  the  eggs,  which  are  conspicuous  on  the 
borders  of  the  leaves. 


InJ7irio2is    Insects.  31 

Orange,  continued. 
■Leaf-Notcher  (Artipr^  Floridmius,  Horn). — Beetle,  one-fourth 
inch  long,  greenish  blue  or  copper-colored,  eating  the  edges 
of  the  leaves. 
Remedy.  — Jarring. 
Mite  {Tetranychus  6-maculatus) . 

Remedies.— Kerosene  emulsion.     Sulphur.     Practice  clean 
culture. 
Scale. — Many  species,  preying  upon  the  leaves  and  shoots. 
Remedies. — Kerosene  emulsion  applied  with  a  brush  or  in 
spray,  just  before  the  trees  bloom,  and  at  intervals  of  two 
or  three  weeks  as  occasion  may  require.    Lye  wash.    Lye- 
and-sulphur  wash.    Pyrethrum  decoction.    Resin  and  fish- 
oil  soap.    When  young  the  scale  is  more  easily  destroyed. 
Parsley.     Parsley- Worm    (Papilio  Asterias,   Cramer). — Larva, 
inch  and  a  half  long,  light  yellow  or  greenish  yellow  with 
lines  and  spots ;  feeding  upon  leaves  of  parsley,  celery,  car- 
rot, etc.    When  the  worm  is  disturbed,  it  ejects  two  yellow 
horns  with  an  offensive  odor,  from  the  anterior  end. 

Remedies.— Hand-picking.     Poultry  are  said  to  eat  them 
sometimes. 
Parsnip.    Parsley-Worm.— See  under  Parsley. 
Parsnip  Web- Worm  {Depressaria  heracliana,  De  Geer) . — Larva, 
about  a  half  inch  long,  feeding  in  the  flower-cluster  and  caus- 
ing it  to  become  contorted. 

Remedies. — Arsenites,  applied  as  soon  as  the  young  worms 
appear,  and  before  the  cluster  becomes  distorted.  The 
worms  are  easily  disturbed,  and  hand-picking  is  often  ad- 
visable. Burn  the  distorted  umbels. 
Pea.  Pea- Weevil  or  Pea-Bug  {Bruchus  pisi,  Linn.).— A  small 
brown-black  beetle,  living  in  peas  over  winter.  The  beetle 
escapes  in  fall  a«kd  spring  and  lays  its  eggs  in  young  pea- 
pods,  and  the  grubs  live  in  the  growing  peas. 

Preventive. — It  is  said  that  coal-ashes  or  sand  saturated 
with  phenyl  and  sown  with  the  peas  will  prevent  attack. 

Remedies. — As  soon  as  the  mature  peas  are  picked,  and 
while  the  grubs  are  only  partly  grown,  subject  the  peas  to 
a  temperature  of  14.5°  for  an  hour.  The  seed  will  not  be 
injured.  The  ripe  peas  may  also  be  confined  in  some  tight 
receptacle,  and  a  little  bisulphide  of  carbon  added. 


32  The  Horticulturisf  s   Rule- Book. 

Peach.  Aphis  {Aphis  persiccc-niger,  Smith). — A  small  black  or 
brown  plant-louse  which  attacks  the  tops  and  roots  of  peach 
trees.  When  upon  the  roots  it  is  a  very  serious  enemy, 
stunting  the  tree  and  perhaps  killing  it.  Thrives  in  sandy 
lands. 

Remedies.— Kerosene  emulsion.     Tobacco  decoction.     To- 
bacco hoed  in  about  the  tree  will  destroy  the  root-colonies. 

Apple-tkee  Borer. — See  under  Apple. 

Flat-headed  Borer.— See  under  Apple. 

I^TYDiD. — This  insect  is  often  troublesome  to  the  peach  in  the 
southern  states  in  early  spring,  eating  the  leaves  and  gird- 
ling young  stems. 
Remedy. — Poisoned  baits  placed  about  the  tree. 

Peach-twig  Moth  {Anarsialineatella^  Zeller)  .—The  larva  of  a 
moth,  a  fourth  inch  long,  boring  in  the  ends  of  the  shoots ;  it 
sometimes  attacks  the  apple  and  strawberry -roots. 
Remedy.— Burn  the  infested  twigs. 

Peach-Louse  or  Aphis  (Myzus  persicce,  Sulzer) . — A  small  in- 
sect feeding  upon  the  young  leaves,  causing  them  to  curl 
and  die. 

Remedies. — Kerosene  emulsion.  Soap-and-soda  wash.  Soap- 
water.    Soap  and  arsenites. 

Plum-Curculio.— See  under  Plum. 

Peach-tree  Borer  {Mgeria  exitiosa,  Say). — A  whitish  larva, 
about  three-fourths  inch  long  when  mature,  boring  into  the 
the  crown  and  upper  roots  of  the  peach,  causing  gum  to 
exude. 

Preventive. — Make  a  mound  about  the  tree  in  early  sum- 
mer, a  foot  high,  and  remove  it  in  September ;  the  moth  then 
lays  her  eggs  about  the  top  of  the  mound,  and  the  tender 
larvae  are  killed  by  exposure  to  the  weather.  A  coat  of 
asbestos  roofing  applied  about  the  base  of  the  tree  is  recom- 
mended as  a  preventive.  Apply  washes  as  for  apple-tree 
borers.  Paint  the  crown  of  the  tree  with  ordinary  paint,  to 
Avhich  Paris  green  has  been  added.  All  preventives  are 
unsatisfactory  however,  and  the  only  safety  is— 
Remedy. — Dig  out  the  borers  in  late  fall  and  early  spring. 

Red-legged  Plea-Beetle  {Haltica  nifipes).—A  flea-beetle 
feeding  on  the  leaves  of  peach  trees,  often  in  great  num- 
bers. 


Injurious  Insects.  33 

Peach  (Red-leg-ged  Flea-Beetle),  continued. 

Remedies. — The  insects  fall  at  once  upon  being  jarred,  and 
sheets  saturated  with  kerosene  may  be  used,  upon  which  to 
catch  them.     Spray  with  Paris  green. 

Root-Knot. — See  Root-knot,  under  R. 

Rose-Beetle.— See  under  Rose  and  Apple. 
Pear.    Apple-tkee  Borer.— See  under  Apple. 

Bud-Moth.— See  under  Apple. 

CoDLiN-MoTH.- See  under  Apple. 

Plat-headed  Borer.— See  under  Apple. 

Midge  (Diplosis  pyrivora) . — A  minute  fly ;  punctures  the  upper 
part  of  the  pear  and  lays  eggs  in  it.  These  hatch  into  minute 
grubs  which  distort  and  discolor  the  fruit.  It  is  causing 
some  apprehension  in  eastern  New  York  and  eastward. 
Introduced  about  ten  j^ears  ago  from  France. 
Remedy. — Destroy  the  infested  pears. 

Pear-leaf  Blister  {Phytoptus  pyri,  Scheuten).— A  minute 
mite  which  causes  black  blisters  to  appear  upon  the  leaves. 
The  mites  collect  under  the  bud-scales  in  winter. 

Remedy — Burn  the  twigs  in  winter  or  spray  with  kerosene 
emulsion. 

Pear-tree  Borer  {Mgeria  pyri,  Harris).— A  small  whitish 
larva,  feeding  under  the  bark  of  the  pear  tree. 

Remedg — Same  as  for  round-headed  apple-tree  borer. 

Pear-twig  Beetle  (Xylchorus  pyri,  Peck). — Brownish  or  black 
beetle,  one-tenth  inch  long,  boring  in  twigs,  producing  effect 
much  like  pear-blight,  and  hence  often  known  as  "pear- 
blight  beetle."  It  escapes  from  a  minute  perforation  at 
base  of  bud ;  probably  two  broods. 
Remedy. — Burn  twigs  before  the  beetle  escapes. 

PsTLLA  (Psylla  pyri,  Schmidb.). — A  curious  aphis-like  insect 
infesting  the  twigs  of  pear  trees  when  the  fruit  is  setting. 
They  are  covered  with  a  waxy  material,  and  in  the  exuding 
sap  a  fungus  often  develops,  giving  the  twigs  a  sooty  appear- 
ance.   Often  does  great  damage. 

Remedies.— DiflQcult  to  combat.  Spray  before  the  flowers 
appear  with  some  strong  soap  or  lye  wash,  or  kerosene 
emulsion. 

Rose-Beetle.— See  under  Rose  and  Apple. 

Round-headed  Borer.— See  under  Apple. 

Slug.— See  under  Cherry. 


34  The  Horticulhcrisf  s  Ride-Book. 

Pear,  continued. 
TwiG-GiRDLER  yOncidercK  civyulaUis,  Say). — A  broAvnish  gray 
beetle,   about  one-half   inch  long,   which   girdles  twigs  in 
August  and  September.     The  female  lays  eggs  above  the 
girdle.    The  twigs  soon  fall. 

Bemedj/.— Burn  the  twigs,  either  cutting  them  off  or  gather- 
ing them  when  thej^  fall. 
Twig-Pruner.— See  under  Apple. 
Persimmon.     Twig-Girdler. — See  under  Pear. 
Pineapple.     Katydid    {Acanthatara  similis).—A   large   katydid 
which  attacks,  among  other  plants,  the  leaves  of  the  pine- 
apple. 
Remedies. — Arsenites,  before  the  plants  are  mature. 
Plant-Lice.— See  Aphides. 
Plum.     Bud-Moth.— See  under  Apple. 
Canker-Worm.— See  under  Apple. 

CuRCULio  (Conotrachelus  nenuphar,  Herbst.). — Larva,  a  whit- 
ish grub,  feeding  in  the  fruit. 

Remedies. — Arsenites ;  apply  as  soon  as  the  calyx  falls 
and  repeat  two  or  three  times  at  intervals  of  about  ten  days. 
Plaster  and  carbolic-acid  mixture.  Jarring  the  beetles  on 
sheets  very  early  in  the  morning,  beginning  when  trees  are 
in  flower  and  continuing  from  four  to  six  weeks.  Catching 
beetles  under  chips  or  blocks  about  base  of  tree,  the  insects 
being  taken  very  earlj^  in  the  morning. 
Flat-headed  Borer. — See  under  Apple. 
Pear-twig  Beetle. — See  under  Pear. 

Plum-Gouger  (Coccotorus  scutellarns,  XjCC.). — ^A  small  larva, 
feeding  upon  the  kernel  of  the  plum.  The  beetle  bores  a 
round  hole  in  the  plum,  instead  of  making  a  crescent  mark 
like  the  curculio. 

Remedy. — Same  as  for  curculio. 
Twig-Pruner. — See  under  Apple. 
Slug. — See  under  Cherry. 

Poplar.  Cottonwood  Leaf-Beetle  (Lina  scripta,  Riley). — A 
striped  beetle  feeding  on  the  leaves  and  shoots  of  poplars 
and  willows. 

Remedy .  — Ars  enites . 
Willow-Worm.-  -^e  under  Willow, 


Injurious  Insects.  35 


Potato.     Colorado    Potato-Beetle    (Doryphora    decemlineata 
Say). — Beetle  and  larva  feed  upon  the  leaves. 
Remedies. — Arsenites.     Hand-picking  the  beetle. 
Mole-Cricket  {GrylloMpa  borealis,   Burm.). — Mature   insect 
curiously  formed,  whitish,  feeding  on  tubers  in  low  and 
mucky  ground. 
■  Preventive. — Plant  potatoes  on  upland. 
Stalk- Weevil  (Trichobaris  trinotata,  Say). — A  grub  boring  in 
the  stalk  of  the  potato  near  or  just  below  the  ground.    Seri- 
ous at  the  west  and  in  some  places  eastward. 
Remedy. — Burn  all  infested  vines. 

Privet  or  Prim.  Privet  Web- Worm  (Margarodes  quadristig 
malis,  Gn.) . — Small  larva  feeding  in  webs  on  the  young  shoots 
of  the  privet,  appearing  early  in  the  season ;  two  to  four 
broods. 

Remedies. — Trim  the  hedge  as  soon  as  the  worms  appear 
and  burn  the  trimmings.    Attract  the  moths  at  night  by 
lights.    Probably  the  arsenites  will  prove  useful. 
Quince.    Round-headed  Borers.— See  under  Apples. 
SLUG.^See  under  Cherry. 

Radish.  Maggot  {Anthomyia  raphani,  Harris). — Indistinguish- 
able from  the  cabbage-maggot,  which  see.  Sowing  copperas 
upon  the  soil  before  planting  is  sometimes  adopted  as  a  pre- 
ventive of  attack. 
Raspberry,  Cane-Corer  {Oberea  bimaculata,  Oliv.). — Beetle, 
black,  small  and  slim;  making  two  girdles  about  an  inch 
apart  near  the  tip  of  the  cane,  in  June,  and  laying  an  egg 
just  above  the  lower  girdle ;  the  larva,  attaining  the  length 
of  nearly  an  inch,  bores  down  the  cane.  Also  in  the  black- 
berry. 

Remedy. — As  soon  as  the  tip  of  the  cane  wilts,  cut  it  off  at 
the  lower  girdle  and  burn  it. 
Raspberry  Root-Borer  (Bembecia  marginata,  Harris). — Larva 
about  one  inch  long,  boring  in  the  roots,  and  the  lower  parts 
of  the  cane,  remaining  in  the  root  over  winter. 
Remedy. — Dig  out  the  borers. 
Raspberry  Saw-Fly  (Selandria  rubi,  Harris). — Larva  about 
three-fourths  inch  long,  green,  feeding  upon  the  leaves. 
Remedy. — Hellebore.    Arsenites,  after  fruiting. 


36  The   Horticulturisf  s   Rule- Book. 

Raspberry,  continued. 

Root  Gall-Plt  (Rhoditcs  radicum,  Sacken). — A  small  larva 

which  produces  galls,  sometimes  attaining  two  inches  in 

diameter,  on  the  roots  of  the  raspberry,  blackberry  and  rose, 

causing  the  bush  to  appear  sickly,  and  eventually  killing  it. 

Remedy. — There  is  no  remedy  except  to  destroy  the  galls ; 

if  plants  are  badly  affected  they  must  be  dug  up,  and  burned. 

Snowy  or  Tree-Cricket  {CEcanthus  niveus,  Serv.).— Small  and 

whitish  cricket-like  insect,  puncturing  canes  for  two  or  three 

inches,  and  depositing  eggs  in  the  punctures. 

Remedy. — Burn  infested  canes  in  winter  or  very  early 
spring. 

Bed-Spider  {Tetranychus  telarius,  Linn.). — A  small  red  mite  infest- 
ing many  plants,  both  in  the  greenhouse  and  out-of-doors. 
It  flourishes  in  dry  atmospheres,  and  on  the  under  side  of 
the  leaves. 

Remedies. — Persistent  syringing  with  water  will  destroy 
them,  if  the  spray  is  applied  to  the  under  surface.  Fumes 
of  sulphur.     Sulphide-of-soda  wash. 

Ehubarb.  Rhubarb-Curculio  (Lixus  concaviis,  Say). — A  grub 
three-fourths  inch  long  boring  into  the  crown  and  roots.  It 
also  attacks  wild  docks. 

Remedy. — Burn  all  infested  plants,  and  keep  down  the 
docks. 

Root-Kuot  {Heterodera  radicicoki) . — A  disease  characterized  by  the 
knotting  and  contortion  of  the  roots  of  the  peach,  orange  and 
many  other  plants.  It  is  usually  most  destructive  on  the 
peach.  It  is  caused  by  a  nematode,  or  true  worm.  Gulf 
States.    Attacks  green-house  plants. 

Preventives. — Plant  non-infested  plants  in  fresh  soil;  bud 
into  healthy  stocks.  Fertilize  highly,  particularly  with 
potassic  fertilizers.  Set  the  trees  eight  or  ten  inches  deep 
in  high  and  dry  soils.  Infested  small  trees  may  be  reme- 
died, in  part  at  least,  by  transplanting  them  into  highly 
manured  holes  which  have  been  prepared  contiguous  to  them. 

Rose.    Root  Gall-Fi^y. — See  under  Raspberry. 
Mealy  Bug. — On  roses,  a  gill  of  kerosene-oil  to  a  gallon  of 
water  is  a  good  remedy.     Syringe  the  plants  in  the  morning, 
and  two  hours  later  syringe  again  with  clean  water.     See 
also  under  Mealy  Bug. 


Injurious  Insects.  yj 

Rose,  continued. 
Rose-Beetle,  Ro&e-Chafek  or  "Rose-Bug"    {Macrodactylus 
subspinosus,  Fabr.).— Beetle  three-fourths  inch  long,   light 
brown,  feeding  upon  the  leaves,  blossoms  and  fruit. 

Remedies. — Hand-picking.  Knocking  off  on  sheet  early  in 
morning.  Bagging.  Pyrethrum,  Kerosene  emulsion.  Py- 
rethro-kerosene  emulsion.  Eau  celeste.  It  is  said  to  prefer 
Clinton  grapes,  spireas,  I'ose-bushes  and  magnolias,  and  it  has 
been  suggested  that  these  plants  be  used  as  a  decoy.  Open 
vials  of  bisulphide  of  carbon  hung  in  bushes  and  vines  are 
recommended  by  some.  Sludge-oil  soap,  a  manufactured 
material.  Spraying  with  dilute  lime  whitewash.  Hot  water, 
at  a  temperature  of  125°  to  130°  Fahr.  To  prevent  the  insects 
from  breeding,  keep  the  light  lands — in  which  they  breed — 
under  thorough  cultivation,  and  especially  never  seed  them 
down. 
Rose  Leaf-Hopper  {Tettigonia  rosce) .—Hopper,  very  small, 
white,  often  mistaken  for  thrips ;  lives  on  the  leaves  of  roses. 
Various  stages  of  growth  may  be  found  in  the  leaves  through- 
out the  summer,  and  even  on  indoor  plants. 

Remedies. — Whale-oil  soap.    Kerosene.    Kerosene  emulsion. 
Nicotyl  vapor. 
Saails. — These  animals  are  often  very  troublesome  in  green- 
houses, eating  many  plants  voraciously. 

Preventives. — Trap  them  by  placing  pieces  of  turnip,  cab- 
bage or  potatoes  about  the  house.  Scatter  bits  of  camphor- 
gum  about  the  plants.  Strew  a  line  of  salt  along  the  edges 
of  the  bed. 
Strawberry.  Strawberry  Crown-Borer  {Tyloderma  fragarice, 
Riley). — White  grub,  one-fifth  inch  long,  boring  into  the 
crown  of  the  plant  in  midsummer.  The  mature  insect  is  a 
curculio  or  weevil. 

Remedy. — Burn  over  the  field  after  the  fruit  is  picked.  If 
this  does  not  destroy  the  insects,  dig  up  the  plants  and  burn 
them. 
Grub  or  Mat-Beetle.— See  under  May-Beetle. 
Strawberry  Leaf-Roller  (Phoxopteris  comptana,  Frol.). — 
Larva,  less  than  one-half  inch  long,  feeding  on  the  leaves, 
and  rolling  them  up  in  threads  of  silk ;  two  broods. 

Remedies.— In  first  stage  of  attack  apply  hellebore.    Burn 
the  leaf-cases. 


38  The  HorticidturisV  s   Ride- Book. 

Strawberry*  continued. 
Strawberry  Root-Louse  (Aphis  Forbcsii,  Weed). — From  July 
to  the  close  of  the  season  the  lice  appear  in  great  numbers 
on  the  crowns  and  in  the  roots  of  the  plants. 

Remedies. — Rotation  in  planting.     Disinfect   plants   com- 
ing from  infested  patches  by  dipping  the  crowns  and  roots  in 
kerosene  emulsion. 
Strawberry  Root-Borer  (Anarsia  lineateUa,  Zeller). — Larva, 
about  one-half  inch  long,  whitish,  boring  into  the  crown  of 
the  plant  late  in  the  season  and  remaining  in  it  over  winter. 
Remedy. — Burn  the  plant. 
Strawberry  Saw-Fly  (Emphytus  maculatus,  Norton). — Larva, 
nearly  three-fourths  inch  long,  greenish,  feeding  upon  the 
leaves ;  two  broods. 
Bemedj/.— Hellebore.    Arsenites  for  second  brood. 
Weevil  (Anthonomus  musculus,  Say). — Beetle,  one-tenth  inch 
long,  reddish,  feeding  on  j^oung  fruit. 
Remedies.— Plaster  and  crude  carbolic-acid  mixture. 
Sumac.    Apple-tree  Borer. — See  under  Apple. 
Jumping  Sumac-Beetle    (BlephaHda  rhois,   Forst.). — Larva, 
half  inch  long,  dull  greenish  yellow,  feeding  on  leaves ;  two 
broods. 
Remedy. — Arsenites. 
Sweet-Potato.      Saw-Fly    (ScMzocerus   ebenus,    Norton). — Small 
larva  about  one-fourth  inch  long,  working  upon  the  leaves. 
The  fly  is  about  the  size  of  a  house-fly. 

Remedies. — Hellebore   and   pyre  thrum  are  to   be  recom- 
mended ;  also  arsenites. 
Tomato.    Fruit- Worm    {Heliothis  armiger,   Hub.). — Larva,    one 
inch  in  length,  pale  green  or  dark  brown,  faintly  striped, 
feeding  upon  the  fruit.    Also  on  corn  and  cotton. 
Remedies. — Hand-picking.     White  hellebore. 
Tomato-Ringer   (Stictocephala  festina,  Say). — A   leaf -hopper 
which  injures  the  stem  of  the  young  tomato-plant  by  punc- 
turing it  in  a  ring.    Southward. 
No  remedy  is  known. 
Tomato-Worm    (Macrusila   quinquemaculata,   Haw.). — A  very 
large  green  worm  feeding  upon  the  stems  and  leaves  of  the 
tomato  and  husk  tomato. 
Bemedi/.— Hand-picking.    Hellebore.     Arsenites. 


Injurious  bisects.  39 

Turnip.    Maggot. — See  under  Cabbage. 

Weigelia.    Four-striped  Plant-Bug.— See  under  Currant. 

White  Ants,  or  Termites.— These  insects  often  infest  orchard 

trees  in  the  southern  states,  particularly  in  orchards  which 

contain  old  stumps  or  rubbish. 
Remedy. — The  soap-and-arsenites  wash  brushed  over  the 

trunk  and  branches  of  the  tree. 
Willow.  Willow- Worm  (Venessa  antiopa,  Linn.) . — Larva,  nearly 

two  inches  long,  black,  feeding  upon  leaves  of  willow,  elm 

and  poplar ;  two  broods. 
Remedy. — Arsenites. 
Wire-Worm  (Various  species)  .—Slim  and  brown  larvae,  feeding 

upon  the  roots  of  various  plants.    They  are  the  larvae  of  the 

click-beetle  or  snapping-beetle. 
Rcmcdi/.— Arsenites  sprinkled  upon  baits  of  fresh  clover  or 

other  material  which  is  placed  about  the  field  un(fer  blocks 

or  boards.    Sweetened  corn-meal  dough  also  makes  a  good 

bait.    The  best  treatment  is  to  plow  infested  land  in  the  fall. 

A  system  of  short  rotations  of  crops  will  greatly  lessen 

injury  from  wire- worms. 


Inasmuch  as  the  growth  of  one  year  determines  the  possibility  of 
a  crop  in  the  succeeding  year,  it  follows  that  spraying,  which  insures 
healthy  foliage,  may  show  its  greatest  result  in  the  following  year. 
This  secondary  result  of  spray  big — its  influence  in  determining  pro- 
ductiveness— is  fully  as  important  as  its  immediate  result  in  securing 
fair  fruit;  and  it  emphasises  the  importance  of  spraying  even  when 
there  is  no  fruit.  Spraying  sometimes  fails,  hut  there  is  no  horticul- 
tural practice  which  is  surer  to  bring  good  results. 


CHAPTER    III. 


Fungicides,   for    Plant-Diseases. 

The  results  obtained  from  the  use  of  any  insecticide  or  fungi- 
cide depend  much  upon  the  operator.  Timeliness,  thoroughness  and 
persistence  are  the  watchwords  of  success.  It  is  easier  to  keep 
an  enemy  away  than  to  drive  him  away.  The  worst  foes  are 
often  the  smallest  ones,  and  the  injury  is  often  done  before  they 
are  detected.    Be  readj^,  and  begin  early. 

The  two  most  important  fungicides  are  ammoniacal  carbonate 
of  copper  and  Bordeaux  mixture.    The  former  is  cheaper  ana 
more  easily  applied.    The  latter  is  more  adhesive  ;  it  cannot  be 
thrown  on  to  large  trees.     It  case  any  disease  is  not  mentioned, 
or  you  are  in  doubt  and  cannot  secure  advice,  use  one  or  the 
other  of  these  preparations. 
Copper  carbonate  costs  from  40  to  60  cents  per  pound. 
Copper  sulphate  costs  6  cents  per  pound. 
Ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper.— 1.  Into  a  vessel  having  a  ca- 
pacity of   2    quarts  or  more,   pour   1    quart    of    ammonia 
(strength  22  degrees  Baum6),  add  3  ounces  carbonate  of 
copper.     Stir  rapidly  for  a  moment  and  the  carbonate  of 
copper  will  dissolve  in  the  ammonia,  forming  a  very  clear 
liquid.    The  concentrated  liquid  thus  prepared  may  be  kept 
indefinitely.    For  use,  dilute  to  25  gallons. 

2.  Carbonate  of  copper,  5  ounces ;  ammonia  (26°) ,  3  pints ; 
water,  45  gallons.     This  is  probably  the  better  method. 
It  is  better  to  wet  the  carbonate  before  dissolving  it. 
For  grape-rot  and  mildew,  apple-scab  and  many  other  di- 
seases. 
Ammoniated  copper  sulphate  {Mixture  No.  5  of  Dept.  of  Agricul- 
ture) . — Equal  parts  of  ammoniated  copper  sulphate  and  am- 
monia carbonate.     Put  1  pound  of  the  material  in  25  gallons 
of  water,  when  desired  for  use.    For  the  same  uses  as  am. 
moniacal  carbonate  of  copper. 
(40) 


Fungicides,  for  Plant- Diseases.  41 

Blight-powder,  Sulphated  sulphur.— Prepared  by  thoroughly 
mixing  from  3  to  8  pounds  of  anhydrous  sulphate  of  copper 
with  90  to  100  pounds  of  flowers  of  sulphur.  For  simulta- 
neous treatment  of  downy  mildew,  tomato  and  potato-blight 
and  rot.     Little  used. 

Bordeaux  mixture  (Copper  mixture  of  Gironde). — 1.  Dissolve  6 
pounds  of  sulphate  of  copper  in  16  gallons  of  water.  In  an- 
other vessel  slake  4  pounds  of  fresh  lime  in  6  gallons  of 
water.  When  the  latter  mixture  has  cooled,  it  is  slowly 
poured  into  the  copper  solution,  care  being  taken  to  mix  the 
fluids  thoroughly  by  constant  stirring.  Prepare  some  days 
before  use.  Stir  before  applying.  Stronger  mixtures  were 
at  first  recommended,  but  they  are  not  now  used. 

2.  Powdered  sulphate  of  copper,  12  pounds  in  15-20  gal- 
lons water  ;  lime,  8  pounds  in  10-12  gallons  of  water.  When 
the  materials  are  thoroughly  incorporated  with  the  water, 
add  the  two  mixtures. 

For  do\vn3'^-mildew  and  black-rot  of  the  grape,  blight  and 
rot  of  the  tomato  and  potato,  blights  of  fruits,  and  many  other 
diseases. 

Sometimes  the  mixture  is  not  washed  off  the  grapes  by  the 
rains.  In  this  case,  add  one  quart  of  strong  cider-vinegar  to 
5  gallons  of  water,  and  dip  the  grapes,  allowing  them  to  re- 
main a  few  minutes,  then  rinse  once  or  twice.  Dip  the 
grapes  by  placing  them  in  a  wire  basket. 

Carbolic  acid  (Phenic  acid). — 1.  Ha  If -pint  to  10  gallons  of  water. 
For  powdery  mildew  of  the  vine. 

2.  Soap-suds,  10  gallons  ;  glycerine,  1  pound  ;  carbolic 
acid,  }4  pint.  Mix  thoroughly  to  form  an  emulsion.  For 
orange-leaf  scab. 

Chloride  of  iron. — A  very  dilute  solution  of  chloride  of  iron  has 
been  used  with  success  in  combating  the  coffee  disease  due 
to  Hemileia  vastatrix.  The  solution  is  applied  to  the  under 
surface  of  the  leaves  by  means  of  a  pulverizator  or  spraying- 
apparatus.  Its  sticky  nature  causes  it  to  adhere  for  two 
months.  It  is  suggestive  in  connection  with  some  of  our 
plant-diseases. 

Copper,  Precipitated  carbonate  of. — Dissolve  2  pounds  of  sulphate 
of  copper  in  hot  water,  and  in  another  vessel  2.5  pounds  of 
sal  soda  in  hot  water ;  when  cool,  the  two  are  added  together 
with  constant  stirring.  The  mixture  is  then  diluted  to  25 
gallons.     For  diseases  of  the  gi'ape. 


42  The  Horticulturisf s  Rule- Book. 

David's  powder. — Dissolve  4  pounds  of  sulphate  of  copper  in  the 
least  possible  amount  of  hot  water,  and  slake  16  pounds  of 
lime  with  the  smallest  quantity  of  water  required.  When 
the  copper  solution  and  slaked  lime  are  completely  cooled, 
mix  them  together  thoroughly  ;  let  the  compound  dry  in  the 
sun,  then  crush  and  sift.  Apply  with  a  sulphuring-bellows 
furnished  with  an  outside  receptacle  for  the  powder.  For 
downy  mildew  and  black-rot  of  the  grape,  mildew  and  an- 
thracnose. 

Destroying  affected  parts. — It  is  important  that  all  affected  parts 
should  be  removed  and  burned,  if  possible.  In  the  fall  all 
leaves  and  fruit  which  have  been  attacked  by  fungi  should 
be  raked  up  and  burned.  Diseased  branches  should  be  sev- 
ered at  some  distance  below  the  lowest  visible  point  of 
attack.  Fungous  diseases  often  spread  rapidly,  and  prompt 
action  is  usually  necessary. 

Eau  celeste.— 1  (Audoynaud  py^ocess).  Dissolve  1  pound  of  sul- 
phate of  copper  in  2  gallons  of  hot  water.  When  com- 
pletely dissolved  and  the  water  has  cooled,  add  1)4  pints  of 
commercial  ammonia  (strength  23  degrees  Baum6).  When 
ready  to  use,  dilute  to  25  gallons.  For  treatment  of  downy 
mildew  and  black-rot  of  the  grape,  anthracnose,  and  blight 
and  rot  of  the  tomato  and  potato,  and  many  other  diseases. 

2.  Dissolve  1  pound  of  sulphate  of  copper  in  2  gallons  of 
water.  In  another  vessel  dissolve  1  pound  of  carbonate  of 
soda.  Mix  the  two  solutions.  When  chemical  reaction  has 
ceased,  add  1^4  pints  of  ammonia,  then  dilute  to  25  gallons. 
For  the  same  purpose  as  No.  1,  and  probably  better. 

Orison  liquid  (Eau  Grison) . — Prepared  by  boiling  3  pounds  each  of 
flowers  of  sulphur  and  lime  in  6  gallons  of  water  until  re- 
duced to  2  gallons.  When  settled,  pour  off  the  clear  liquid 
and  bottle  it.  When  used,  mix  1  pint  of  clear  liquid  in  100 
parts  of  water.    For  mildew  and  powdery  mildew  of  vines. 

Podeschard's  powder.— Dissolve  45  pounds  of  sulphate  of  copper 
in  water.  When  thoroughly  dissolved,  pour  the  solution 
upon  225  pounds  of  air-slaked  lime,  which  is  surrounded  by 
30  pounds  of  ashes  to  keep  the  liquid  from  spreading.  After 
24  hours  add  20  pounds  of  flowers  of  sulphur.  Thoroughly 
mix  the  compound,  ashes  and  all.  When  dry,  sift  thi^ough  a 
sieve  with  meshes  of  one-eighth  inch.  Will  keep  for 
months.    For  downy  mildew,  mildew  and  anthracnose. 


Fungicides,  jor  Plaiit- Diseases.  43 

Potassium  sulptiide.— Used  at  the  rate  ot  }4  or  X  ounce  to  the 
gallon  of  water.    For  various  mildews,  as  gooseberry  mildew. 

Skawinski's  powder.— Mix  22  pounds  of  finely  powdered  sulphate 
of  copper  with  33  pounds  of  soot  or  alluvial  earth  and  165 
pounds  of  coal-dust.     For  treatment  of  mildews. 

Skawinski's  sulphate  of  iron  and  sulphuric  acid  solution. — Sul- 
phate of  iron,  110  pounds;  sulphuric  acid  (53  degrees),  1}4 
pints ;  warm  water,  22  gallons.  Pour  sulphuric  acid  on  the 
crystals  of  iron,  then  add  the  water.    Use  while  warm. 

Soda  hyposulphite. — 1.  Half-ounce  to  10  gallons  of  water.  For 
various  diseases.     Little  used  now. 

2.  1  pound  in  10  to  20  gallons  of  water.  For  celery  leaf- 
blight,  orange  leaf-blight,  apple-scab.  Should  be  used  as 
as  soon  prepared.     Little  used. 

Sulfo-steatite  or  Cupric  steatite. — An  exceedingly  fine  bluish 
powder  composed  of  steatite,  or  talc,  and  about  10  per  cent, 
of  sulphate  of  copper.  Considered  the  most  adherent  of  aU 
fungicide  powders.     For  mildews. 

Sulphate  of  copper. — 1.  Dissolve  }4  pound  of  pure  sulphate  of 
copper  in  5  to  12  gallons  of  water.  For  treatment  of  downy 
mildew  and  black-rot  of  gi-ape  and  apple-scab  in  ^vinter,  or 
in  spring  before  the  buds  swell. 

2.  Dissolve  5  to  8  pounds  in  10  gallons  of  water.  For  soak- 
ing grains  previous  to  sowing,  to  destroy  spores  of  smuts. 
The  Germans  use  a  3^-per-cent.  solution,  and  soak  the  grains 
for  about  16  hours. 

Sulphate  of  iron.— 1.  Simple  solution  in  water  of  4  to  8  pounds  to 
the  gallon.    To  be  used  only  as  a  wash  before  the  buds  swell. 
For  anthracnose  of  the  vine  and  raspberry,  etc. 
2.  For  a  spray,  dissolve  about  1}^  pounds  to  the  gallon. 

Sulphatine,  the  Esteve  process. — Mix  2  pounds  of  anhydrous  sul- 
phate of  copper  with  20  pounds  of  flowers  of  sulphur  and  2 
pounds  of  air-slaked  lime.  For  mildew,  downy  mildew  and 
black-rot  of  gTape,  tomato  and  potato-blight  and  rot. 

Sulphide,  or  sulphuret,  of  potassium  (Liver  of  sitJp?iur).— Simple 
solution  in  water  of  }{  to  1  ounce  to  the  gallon.  For  mildew 
in  greenhouses,  mildew  on  roses,  erinose  of  vine,  orange 
leaf-scab,  celery  leaf-blight,  pear  and  apple-scab  and  various 
rots. 
Sulphide  of  soda  wash  {Hilgard's) . — Dissolve  30  pounds  of  whale- 
oil  soap  in  60  gallons  of  water  by  heating  the  two  together 


44  The   Horticulturisf s  Rule-Book. 

Sulphide  of  soda  wash,  continued. 

thoroughl5\  Then  boil  3  pounds  of  American  concentrated 
lye  with  6  pounds  of  sulphur  and  2  gallons  of  water.  When 
thoroughly  dissolved,  it  is  a  dark  brown  liquid,  chemically 
called  sulphide  of  soda.  Mix  the  two — the  soap  and  the  sul- 
phur—well, and  allow  them  to  boil  for  half  an  hour,  then  add 
90  gallons  of  water  to  the  mixture,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 
Apply  it  warm  by  means  of  a  spray-pump.  Used  warm,  its 
effect  is  better  and  less  material  is  required  than  when  cold- 
For  scab  diseases. 
Sulphur. — In  its  dry  and  pulverized  state,  sulphur,  known  as 
flowers  of  sulphur,  is  often  a  valuable  fungicide,  particu- 
larly for  surface-mildew.  In  the  greenhouse  it  may  also  be 
used  in  fumes.  Evaporate  it  over  a  steady  heat,  as  an  oil- 
stove,  until  the  house  is  filled  with  the  vapor.  It  should 
never  be  heated  to  the  burning  point,  as  burning  sulphur 
quicklj^  destroys  most  plants.  It  may  also  b3  used  in  water, 
in  the  proportion  of  an  ounce  of  sulphur  to  5  gallons  of 
water. 
Sulphur  and  lime.— A  mixture  of  sulphur  and  lime  in  equal  parts 
by  weight.  For  anthracnose  during  growing-season. 
Some  fungicides  may  be  added  to  London-pui-ple  or  Paris- 
green  mixtures,  as  explained  on  page  8. 


V)e  best  spraying  machine  is  the  one 
which  throws  the  finest  spray  to  the 
greatest  distance. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


Plant-Diseases: 

WITH    PREVENTIVES    AND    REMEDIES. 

Apple.    Blight. — Tlie  same  disease  as  pear-bligM,  which  see. 
Brown-Rot.— See  under  Cherry. 

Powdery  Mildew  {Podosplicera  oxycanthce,  DeBary). — Attacks 
nursery  stocks,  covering  leaves  with  a  grayish  and  powdery 
meal-like  mildew. 

Remedy. — Ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper,  applied  four  or 
five  times. 
RiPE-RoT  OR  Bitter-Rot.  {Glocosporium friictigenum.  Berk.). — 
A  rot  which  attacks  ripe  apples  and  gi'apes.  It  attacks  the 
fruit  before  it  is  picked  usually,  although  it  may  not  become 
apparent  until  it  is  stored.  Many  of  the  culls  in  packed  fruit 
are  due  to  this  fungus. 

Remedies.— Spray  the  fruit  late  in  the  season  (beginning 
early  in  August)  with  ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper,  or 
potassium  sulphide  (}4  ounce  to  gallon  of  water) . 
Rust  (species  of  Rocstelia) . — Bright  yellow  rust  appearing  on 
the  young  leaves  and  fruit,  causing  the  whole  tree  to  become 
enfeebled.  It  is  now  known  that  one  stage  of  this  fungus  is 
the  "  cedar-apple  "  which  grows  on  red  cedars  and  junipers, 
where  it  is  known  as  Gymnosporangium.  Several  species 
have  been  described. 

Preventive. — Destroy  the  cedars  or  keep  them  free  from  the 
"apples."  Destroy  hawthorns  and  escaped  apples,  which 
are  liable  to  be  infested.  Some  varieties  of  apples  appear  to 
be  more  susceptible  to  injury  than  others. 

Remedy. — Spray  early  with  ammoniacal  carbonate  of  cop- 
per, 

(45) 


46  ^rhe  Horticjilturisf s   Rule- Book. 

Apple,  continued. 
Scab    (Fusicladium   dentriticum,   Fckl.). — Brown    or   blackish 
scab-like  spots  on  the  leaves  and  fruit,  arresting  growth  and 
causing  the  parts  to  become  distorted.     Very  common. 

Preventive  or  Remedy. — Spray  with  sulphate  of  copper  while 
the  trees  are  dormant,  if  apple-scab  is  feared.  Thereafter 
spray  with  ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper.  The  first 
application  of  this  should  be  made  as  soon  as  the  leaves 
appear  and  before  the  blossoms  open,  and  the  second  as  soon 
as  the  blossoms  fall.  T^vo  or  three  subsequent  sprayings 
may  be  necessary  at  intervals  of  two  or  three  weeks.  Am- 
moniated  copper  sulphate,  applied  as  above,  has  also  given 
good  results. 

Apricot.    Leaf-Rust. — See  under  Plum. 

Balm  of  Gilead.    Leaf-Rust. — See  under  Poplar. 

Bean.     Anthracnose,  or  Pod-Rust    (Gloeosporium  Lindemuthi- 
anum,  Sacc.  and  Magn.).— Reddish  brown  scab-like  spots 
appearing  upon  bean-pods,    particularly  upon  the  yellow- 
podded  string- beans.     It  also  attacks  watermelons. 
Preugnf  ire,  —Plant  in  dry  and  any  places,  on  light  soil. 
Remedies.— Copper  sprays.     Sulphur  and  water. 

Bean,  Lima.  Blight  (PhytopJitlwra  PhaseolU  Thaxter).— Attacks 
the  pods  in  August  and  September,  covering  them  with  a 
white,  felted  coating.  It  also  attacks  the  young  shoots  ana 
leaves. 

Remedy.— Bordeaux  mixture. 

Beet.     Rust  (Uromyces  beta',  Pers.).— Powdery  reddish  brown 
spots  on  the  leaves  of  beets  in  California,  often  doing  much 
injury. 
Remedies. — Copper  sprays.     Burn  the  infested  leaves. 

Blackberry.     CA^^E-RusT   or  Anthracnose.— See   under  Rasp- 
berry. 
Red  or  Orange-Rust.— See  under  Raspberry. 

Button  wood.    Leaf-Scorchixg.     See  under  Plane-tree. 

Cabbage.  Club-Root  or  Club-Foot  {Plasm idiophora  brassiccB, 
Woronin) . — A  contorted  swelling  of  the  root  of  the  cabbage 
in  the  field,  preventing  the  plant  from  heading  and  causing 
it  to  assume  a  sickly  appearance. 

Remedies. — Burn  the  roots  as  soon  as  the  disease  appears. 
Alternate  crops.  It  is  thought  that  stable-manures  aggra- 
vate the  disease. 


Plant- Diseases,  47 

Carnation.  Rust  (Septoria  Dianthi,  Desm.).— Attacks  the  leaves 
in  large,  light  brown  spots,  or  occasionally  the  whole  leaf 
becomes  discolored  and  wilts.  Probably  introduced  from 
Europe. 

Preventives.— Ji  the  disease  is  feared,  be  careful  not  to 
apply  water  to  the  leaves.  Ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper 
or  Bordeaux  mixture.     Burn  all  infested  leaves. 

Another  Rust  {Uromyces  caryophylUnus,  Schr.)  also  occurs 
upon  the  carnation,  producing  gray  blisters  upon  the  leaves. 
The  treatment  is  the  same  as  for  the  above.  In  both  in- 
stances, a  careful  picking  and  burning  of  the  infected  parts 
is  one  of  the  surest  preventives  of  further  attacks. 
Celery.  Celert-leaf  Blight,  Rust  or  Sun-Scald  {Cercospora 
ApU,  Fries) . — Appears  in  hot  and  dry  places  and  seasons, 
about  mid-summer.  Small  yellowish  spots  appear  upon  the 
leaves  ;  later  the  leaves  turn  yellow,  then  brown,  and  dies. 

Preventive. — Plant  in  a  moist  and  cool  place,  and  shade  the 
plants  if  necessary.  Destroy  all  diseased  leaves  in  autumn. 
Cherry.  Browx-Rot  {Moyiilia  fructigena,  Pers.).— Attacks  flow- 
ers, leaves  and  fruit.  The  flowers  die  and  decay,  the  leaves 
become  discolored  with  brownish  patches,  and  the  fruit 
rots  on  the  tree.    Attacks  also  peaches,  plums  and  apples. 

Remedies.— Bum  all  infested  fruit  and  leaves  in  the  fall. 
Before  buds  expand  in  spring  spray  with  sulphate  of  iron 
or  copper.     When  the  flowers  are  opening,  spray  again  with 
ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper,  and  repeat  the  operation  at 
intervals  of  a  week  or  two  until  the  fruit  begins  to  color. 
See  under  Peach. 
Leaf-Rust.    See  under  Plum. 
Powdery  Mildew.    See  under  Apple. 
Corn.     Rot. — Due  to  bacteria.     The  plants  are  dwarfed,   and 
unusually  slender.      The    roots  become    mucilaginous  and 
decay,  as  do  the  leaf-sheaths  and  the  ears. 

No  remedies  or  preventives  are  known  except  rotation. 
Smut  {Ustilago  Zecc-Mays,  D.  C). — A  fungus  attacking  the  ears 
of  corn,  producing  familiar  black  abnormal  growths. 

Preventive. — Plant  seed  from  clean  fields. 

Remedies. — Cut  out  smut  and  burn  it.     Soak  seed  in  sul- 
phate of  copper  before  planting. 
Cottonwood.    Leaf-Rust. — Sec  under  Poplar. 


48  The   Horticultiu'isf  s   Rule- Book. 

Cranberry.  Gall-Fungus  {SynchytHum  vaccina,  Thomas). — Mi- 
nute red  galls  or  pimples  upon  the  leaves,  flowers  and  stems, 
causing  the  parts  to  become  misshapen  and  dwarfed. 

Remedy.— BviVTi  the  infested  plants  and  also  wild  plants 
about  the  bog  which  are  infested.     Withholding  the  water 
from  the  bog  in  winter  and  spring  may  subdue  it. 
Scald.— Attacking  the  fruit  early  in  the  season,  at  first  produc- 
ing a  scalded  appearance,  and  later  decay. 

Remedies.— Sanding  the  bog  and  keeping  water  off  in  sum- 
mer are  partial  remedies. 
Cucumber.     Mildew  {Oidium  erysiphoides  var.  Caeurhitarum). — 
A  white  mold-like  mildew  which  appears  in  spots  upon  the 
leaves  of  cucumbers,  especially  under  glass. 

Bemcdics.— Evaporated  sulphur.  Spray  with  ammoniacal 
carbonate  of  copper. 
Currant.  Rust  or  Leaf-spot  {Septoria  Ribis,  Desm.).— Appears 
about  mid-summer,  on  leaves  of  white,  red  and  black  cur- 
rants, as  whitish  spots  Avith  black  centers.  It  causes  the 
leaves  to  fall. 

Remedies.— Destroj^  infested  leaves.  Spraying  with  Bor- 
deauj;  mixture  and  carbonate  of  copper,  as  for  grape-rot. 

Damping-off.— A  term  applied  to  the  decay  of  young  seedlings 
and  cuttings  at  or  near  the  surface  of  the  gi'ound.  The 
trouble  is  undoubtedly  due  to  a  gi-eat  variety  of  causes, 
but  it  is  thought  to  be  oftenest  the  work  of  species  of 
fungi  of  the  genus  pythium  (as  Pythium  vexans,  P.  omnivorum 
and  P.  DeBai-yanum) .  It  is  probably  sometimes  due  to 
some  fungus  which  exists  in  the  seed,  and  in  such  cases — 
if  they  could  be  determined — soaking  the  seed  in  carbonate 
of  copper  is  to  be  recommended.  A  confined  atmosphere, 
compact  and  wet  soil,  favor  damping-off. 

Preventives  and  Remedies. — Ventilate  the  cutting  or  seed- 
beds, do  not  let  the  plants  crowd,  and  do  not  keep  very  wet, 
and  keep  the  soil  equally  moist  throughout  its  depth.  When 
the  trouble  appears  among  valuable  plants,  the  healthy  ones 
should  be  transplanted  into  fresh  soil.  Dusting  the  soil 
with  sulphur,  and  sifting  upon  it  and  the  plants  very  hot 
clean  sand,  are  to  be  recommended. 

Gooseberry. — Mildew    {Sphocrotheca    Mors-uvce,    B.    &    C.).— A 


Plant- Diseases.  49 

Gooseberry  (Mildew),  continued. 

downy  mildew  attacking  the  fruits  and  young-  growth  of 
English  varieties  of  gooseberry  (varieties  of  Bibes  Grossu- 
laria) . 

Remedy. — Potassium  sulphide  (liver  of  sulphur),  3^  ounce 
to  a  gallon  of  water  is  a  sure  remedy,  if  applied  as  soon 
as  the  leaves  begin  to  unfold,  and  at  intervals  of  two  or 
three  weeks  thereafter. 
Grape.  Antheacnose  or  Scab  {Sphaceloma  ampelinum,  DeBary). 
— The  fungus  attacks  the  leaves,  where  it  forms  definite 
brown  spots,  and  also  the  young  shoots  and  the  fruits,  where 
it  forms  pits  or  scabs.  Generally  distributed  east  of  the 
Mississippi.     Probabl^^  introduced  from  Europe. 

Remedies. — It  is  difficult  to  combat.  Before  growth  starts, 
cut  out  and  burn  affected  canes  and  then  spray  with  a  strong 
solution  of  sulphate  of  iron.  After  the  leaves  open,  use 
sulphur  and  lime  powder ;  or  the  vines  may  be  sprayed  with 
Bordeaux  mixture  or  ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper. 
Black-Rot  {Lcestadia  Bidwelli,  V.  &  R. ;  Phoma  uvicola,  B. 
&  C.).— Attacks  the  young  berries.  The  fruit  becomes 
black,  hard,  drj^,  and  shriveled,  and  is  covered  with  mi- 
nute pimples.  Occurs  east  of  the  Rockj'^  Mountains,  especially 
southwards.     Of  American  origin. 

Preventive. — A  board  placed  over  the  trellis,  as  mentioned 
under  the  downy  mildew,  is  some  protection ;  but  the  spray 
is  sure : 

Remedies. — Burn  infested  fruits  in  autumn.  If  an  attack  is 
feared,  spray  with  a  plain  solution  of  sulphate  of  iron  or 
copper  before  the  buds  swell.  Thereafter  use  Bordeaux 
mixture  or  ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper,  at  intervals  of 
10  to  15  days,  continuing  for  5  or  6  applications  if  necessary. 
The  first  spraying  is  made  just  before  the  blossoms  open. 
Perhaps  the  best  method  is  to  use  Bordeaux  mixture  for  the 
first  applications,  and  ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper  for 
the  last  one  or  two,  as  this  removes  the  danger  of  discolor- 
ing the  gi'apes  by  the  Bordeaux  mixture.  Very  good  results 
are  obtained  by  the  continuous  use  of  the  carbonate  of  cop- 
per, and  it  is  applied  more  easily  than  the  Bordeaux  mixture. 

The  cost  of  spraying  gi-apes  six  times  during  the  season, 
including  the  cost  of  the  chemicals,  is  estimated  at  two  cents 


50  The   HorticidhirisV  s   Rule- Book. 

Grape  (Black-Rot),  continued. 

per  vine  for  ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper  and  three  cents 
for  Bordeaux  mixture.  These  figures  assume  that  the  best 
appliances  are  used,  and  that  the  plantation  is  a  half  acre  or 
more  in  extent,  and  that  the  copper  carbonate  costs  not  to 
exceed  40  cents  per  pound  and  the  copper  sulphate  not  to 
exceed  6  cents  per  pound. 

Note. — The  following  are  synonyms  for  black-rot: 
Spho&ria  Bidwellii,  PJiysalospora  Bidwellii,  PJwma  uvicola,  Phoma 
uvicola  var.  Labruscce,  Sphceropsis  iivarum,  Phoma  uvarum, 
Nemaspora  ampelicida,  Phyllosticta  Lahruscce  (the  "leaf -spot" 
form),  Phyllosticta  viticola,  Phoma  ustulatum,  Phyllosticta  ampe- 
lopsidis,  Sacidium  viticolum,  Septo7^a  viticola,  Ascochyta  EUisii. 
Do^'NT  Mildew,  Brown-Rot.  {Peronospora viticola^  DeBary) . — 
Appears  in  small  frost-like  patches  on  the  under  surface  of 
the  leaves,  finally  causing  yellowish  discoloration  on  the  upper 
surface.  It  also  causes  the  brown-rot  of  the  fruit.  The  ber- 
ries remain  small  and  firm,  usually  not  wrinkled,  and  become 
brown  in  color.  The  disease  is  worst  on  thin  and  smooth- 
leaved  varieties,  as  the  Delaware  and  others.  It  extends 
generally  throughout  the  Union.    Of  American  origin. 

Preventive. — A  wide  board  nailed  flatwise  on  the  top  of  the 
trellis  so  as  to  protect  the  vines  somewhat,  as  with  a  roof,  is 
a  considerable  protection,  as  it  tends  to  keep  the  vines  dry. 
Vines  trained  against  a  building  rarely  suifer. 

Remedy. — The  same  as  for  black-rot,  which  see. 
Powdery  Mildew  (Uncinula  spiralis,  B.  &  C). — Appears  early 
in  the  season  as  delicate  dust-like  patches  or  covering  on 
the  leaves,  mostly  on  the  upper  surface,  and  on  shoots  and 
fruits.  Berries  attacked  by  it  become  checked  in  growth, 
and  may  remain  small  and  die,  or  they  sometimes  grow  and 
crack  before  death  ensues.  It  attacks  grapes  in  vineries 
which  are  not  properly  ventilated  and  managed.  Occurs 
generally  throughout  the  Union,  but  is  less  destructive  than 
the  downy  mildew.     American  origin. 

Remedy. — Dry  sulphur  applied  to  the  vines,  two  or  three 
times — once  when  the  shoots  just  begin  to  push,  again  when 
in  blossom,  and  usually  again  shortly  before  the  grapes 
begin  to  turn.  Applj^  in  warm  and  bright  weather,  after  the 
dew  is  off.    In  vineries,  the  sulphur  may  be  scattered  on  the 


Plant- Diseases .  51 

Grape  (Powdery  Mildew),  continued. 

hot  pipes.  Any  of  the  sprays  of  copper  compounds  are 
specifics. 
Ripe-Rot  {Glososporium  fructigenum,  Berk.). — See  under  Apple- 
The  treatment  for  black-rot  is  efficacious  for  this. 
Hollyhock.  Rust  {Puccinia  Malvacearum,  Mont. ) . — Appears  upon 
leaves  of  hollyhocks  and  a  few  related  plants  in  small,  light 
brown  patches.  Introduced  from  Europe,  and  becoming  com- 
mon in  this  country. 

Remedies. — To  destroy  the  plants  is  the  only  general  method 
yet  employed  to  prevent  the  spread  of  the  disease,  but  some 
of  the  copper  fungicides  may  be  used. 
Lettuce.  Mildew  {Peronospora  gangliformis,  DeBary). — A  deli- 
cate mildew,  attacking  lettuce-leaves  and  causing  yellow  or 
brown  spots,  and  finally  killing  the  leaf. 

Preventives.  (According  to  Maynard.) — Grow  at  a  low 
temperature  (35°  to  40°  at  night,  50°  to  70°  during  day) ;  give 
abundance  of  plant-food;  give  abundance  of  water,  but 
apply  it  in  morning  and  bright  days  only;  avoid  sudden 
extreme  changes  of  temperature. 

Remedy.— Ymnes  of  sulphur. 
Maple.    Leaf-Spot  (Phyllosticta  acej-icola,  C.  &  E.). — Attacks  the 
leaves  of  red,  silver,  and  striped  maples  in  spring,  causing 
them  to  become  spotted  and  unsightly,  and  lessening  the 
vigor  of  the  tree. 

Remedies.— Rake  and  burn  the  leaves  in  autumn.  When 
the  leaves  are  two -thirds  gi-own  spray  with  sulphide  of 
potassium  or  copper  fungicides,  and  repeat  every  three  or 
four  weeks  as  long  as  necessary. 
Onion.  Rust  {Pero)iospora  Schleidejiiana,  linger). — The  leaves 
turn  yellow  about  the  time  the  onions  begin  to  bottom,  or  a 
little  later,  and  wilt  and  die. 

Remedies.— Grow  on  land  not  infected,  and  destroy  all  af- 
fected onions.     Spray  early  with  copper  fungicides. 
Smut   (UrocysUs   cepulce,    Frost). — Attacks   the   first  leaf   or 
leaves  of  seedling  onions,  producing  dark  irregular  spots, 
and  killing  or  weakening  the  plants. 

Remedy.— The  sulphur  and  lime  mixture  drilled  into  the 
ground  with  the  seed ;  about  an  ounce  of  the  mixture  to  50 
feet  of  drill. 


52  The  Horticulturist's  Rule- Book. 

Orange.    Orange-leaf  Scab  {Cladoi'gorium)  .—The  leaves  become 
yellow  and  distorted. 

Eemedj/.— Spray  with  Grison  liquid,  or  carbolic  acid  and 
glycerine  mixture. 
Peach.    Brown-Rot.— See  under  Cherry. 

Curl,  Leaf-Curl  or  "Frexchixg  "  {Taphrina deformans,  Tul.; 
written  also  Ascomyces  deformans  and  Exoascus  deformans). 
—The  leaves  become  blistered  and  crumpled  early  in  the 
season  and  fall  off. 

Remedies.— Good  culture,  to  enable  the  tree  to  put  forth  new 
leaves,  is  to  be  recommended.  Spray  in  spring,  before  the 
buds  open,  with  sulphate  of  copper  or  u^on,  and  follow  with 
two  or  three  applications  of  ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper 
or  Bordeaux  mixture. 

Leaf-Rust. — See  under  Plum. 

Powdery  Mildew.— See  under  Apple. 

Rot  and  Blight  {Monilia  fructigena,  Pers.). — This  is  the  famil- 
iar quick  rotting  of  peaches  when  nearly  ripe  or  after  they 
are  picked,  and  the  same  fungus  causes  the  blighting  of 
young  shoots.  It  also  attacks  plums,  cherries,  apricots,  and 
to  a  smaller  extent  apples  and  pears. 

Prevent iues.— Burn  or  bury  aU  affected  fruits  as  soon  as 
they  appear.  In  wet  weather,  when  peaches  are  rotting 
badly  on  the  tree,  systematic  attempts  should  be  made  to 
pick  and  destroy  the  injured  fruits.  Burning  or  plowing 
under  the  leaves  in  the  fall  is  to  be  recommended.  Before 
the  leaves  appear,  spray  with  some  copper  compound,  as 
sulphate  of  copper  or  Bordeaux  mixture,  and  spray  there- 
after several  times.  These  sprays  are  not  specifics,  but 
they  appear  to  hold  the  disease  in  check.  It  is  said  that  har- 
vested fruit  can  be  preserved  for  a  short  time  against  the 
fungus  by  dipping  it  in  a  solution  of  potassium  sulphide 
(liver  of  sulphur) . 

Yellows.- The  first  s^nnptom  in  bearing  trees  is  usually  the 
premature  ripening  of  the  fruit.  This  fruit  contains  definite 
small  red  spots  which  extend  to  the  pit.  The  next  stage  is 
indicated  by  very  slender  shoots,  which  branch  the  first 
year  and  which  start  in  clumps  from  the  old  limbs,  bearing 
narrow  and  small  yellowish  leaves.  Later  the  entire  foliage 
becomes  smaller  and  yellow.    In  three  or  four  years  the  tree 


Plant- Diseases.  53 

Peach  (Yellows) ,  continued. 

dies.  The  disease  spreads  from  tree  to  tree.  It  attacks 
trees  of  any  age.  Known  at  present  only  in  regions  east  of 
the  Mississippi.    Peculiar  to  America,  so  far  as  known. 

Preventive. — Burn  all  trees  as  soon  as  the  disease  appears. 
Laws  aiming  to  suppress  the  disease  should  be  enacted  in  all 
peach-growing  states. 

Pear.  Blight  {Micrococcus  amylovorus,  Burrill). — Distinguished 
by  the  blackening  of  the  entire  leaf,  and  the  blackening  of 
the  bark.  Attacks  the  flower  clusters.  It  may  destroy 
branches  or  the  whole  tree.  Generally  distributed  east  of 
the  100th  meridian.  Known  only  in  America.  Attacks  the 
apple. 

Remedy. — As  soon  as  the  disease  is  discovered,  cut  off  the 
affected  pails  a  foot  below  the  point  of  lowest  visible  attack, 
and  burn  them. 
Leaf-Blight  and  Cracking  of  the  Fruit  (Entomosporium 
maculatum,  Lev.;  Morthiera  Mespili,  is  the  same). — Attacks 
nursery-stocks  of  pears,  beg-inniug  as  small  and  circular 
brown  spots  on  the  leaves  ;  soon  the  entire  leaf  turns  brown 
and  falls.    Also  causes  the  cracking  of  the  finiit. 

Remedies.— Bordeaux  mixture,  eau  celeste,  or  ammoniacal 
carbonate  of  copper,  applied  four  or  five  times.  Begin  when 
the  leaves  are  half -grown,  and  follow  at  intervals  of  from 
two  to  four  weeks. 

Root-Rot  (Polyporus  versicolor,  Pries). — Attacks  the  roots,  the 
white  and  felt-like  threads  of  the  fungus  at  length  becoming 
very  abundant  and  conspicuous.  The  trees  produce  a  short 
and  thick  growth,  the  new  wood  being  reddish,  the  leaves 
becoming  yellowish  or  bronzed,  and  there  is  an  unusual  ten- 
dency to  form  fruit-buds.  The  tree  may  die  quickly  or  may 
live  for  several  years.  The  roots  rot  away  and  the  tree  tips 
over.  The  disease  is  worst  on  poor  and  dry  soils  and  in 
grassy  orchards. 

Remedies. — Give  good  culture.  Remove  the  earth  from  the 
crown  and  apply  a  dressing  of  lime. 

Rust.— See  under  Apple. 

Scab  (Fiisicladium  pyrinum,  Fckl.) . — Brown  or  blackish  scab- 
like spots  on  the  leaves  and  fruit,  arresting  the  growth  and 
causing  the  parts  to  become  distorted. 


54  The   Horticulturisf  s  Rule- Book. 

Pear  (Scab),  continued. 

Bemedj/.— Spray  several  times  during  June  and  July  with 
ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper  or  Bordeaux  mixture. 

Plane-Tree.  Leaf-Scorchixg  (GlcBosporium  nervisequum,  Sacc). 
— Attacks  the  leaves  in  spring,  causing  them  to  appear  as  if 
scorched.  They  finally  fall  off.  Attacks  both  the  native  and 
oriental  planes. 

Remedy. — Burn  all  leaves  when  they  fall.  Spray  with  cop 
per  compounds. 

Plum.    Brown-Rot.— See  under  Cherry. 
Leaf-Rust    (Puccinia   praiii-spinoscB,    Pers.). — Small    round 
powdery  spots  of  yellowish  brown  on  the  under  surface  of 
the  leaves,  and  reddish  spots  on  the  upper  surface  directly 
above  them. 

Remedy. — Spray  trees  earlj'^  in  the  season  with  Bordeaux 
mixture,  ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper,  eau  celeste,  or 
other  fungicides. 
Plum-Knot  or  Plum-Wart  (PlowrigMia  [Sphceria]  morbosa, 
Sacc). — A  black  and  irregular  swelling,  from  one  to  five  or 
six  inches  long,  appearing  on  the  small  limbs  of  plum  and 
cherry.    Peculiar  to  America.    A  very  serious  disease. 

Remedies.— Burn  all  affected  parts  in  the  fall.  If  the  knot 
is  found  upon  a  large  limb  or  trunk,  cut  it  out  and  wash  the 
wound  with  sulphate  of  copper.  Wash  the  parts  as  soon  as 
the  swelling  begins  to  appear,  with  linseed  oil,  turpentine  or 
kerosene,  using  the  two  latter  with  caution.  A  paint  of  red 
oxide  of  iron  in  linseed  oil  is  recommended.  Probably  spray- 
ing Avith  strong  copper  sulphate  solution  (10  per  cent,  solu- 
tion) or  similar  mixtures  in  winter  or  early  spring  will  prove 
to  be  valuable  remedies.  All  remedies  are  uncertain. 
Plum-leaf  or  Shot-hole  Fungus  {Septoria  cerasina,  Peck; 
CylindrospoHum  Padi)  .—A-pi>ears  as  spots  upon  the  leaves  in 
July,  and  these  spots  assume  definite  outlines,  and  often  fall 
out,  leaving  holes  like  shot-holes.  The  leaves  fall  early,  pre. 
venting  the  fruit  from  maturing.  The  disease  is  sometimes 
designated  simply  "Falling  of  the  leaves." 

Remedies. — Burn  leaves  as  soon  as  they  fall.  Bordeaux 
mixture  or  ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper  applied  several 
times  during  the  season,  beginning  as  soon  as  the  leaves 
appear. 


Plant- Diseases.  55 

Flam,  continued. 
Plum  Pockets  or  Bladders  (Taphrina  pruni,  Tul.). — Causes 
the  fruit  to  become  inflated  and  hollow.  These  "  bladders  " 
begin  to  appear  soon  after  the  flowers  fall,  and  continue  to 
grow  for  several  months,  when  they  fall.  They  are  at  first 
globular,  but  finally  become  oblong,  often  reaching  two  inches 
in  length.  The  fungus  attacks  the  fruit  of  the  Chickasaw  and 
American  plums,  and  various  species  of  plum  and  cherry. 

Remedies. — Destroy  the   "bladders"  before  they  mature, 
together  with  small  portions  of  the  wood  on  which  they  are 
borne.     Spray  before  buds  expand  with  strong  sulphate  of 
copper  or  iron,  and  follow  with  copper  fungicides. 
Powdery  Mildew. — See  under  Apple. 
Rot  or  Blight.— See  under  Peach. 
Poplar.     Leaf-Rust   {Melampsora  populina,   L6v.). — An  orange 
rust  attacking,  during  summer,  the  leaves  of  various  species 
of  poplar,  including  the  cottonwood,  balm  of  Gilead,  etc. 

Remedies. — Rake  and  burn  the  leaves.  Spray  with  copper 
compounds. 
Potato.  Potato-Rot  or  Blight  (Phytophffiora  infestans,  DeBary). 
.The  spores  first  germinate  upon  the  tops  or  vines,  causing 
the  foliage  to  blight.  The  disease  soon  spreads  to  the  tubers, 
causing  discolored  and  diseased  potatoes.  It  is  a  "  dry  rot." 
The  fungus  may  remain  in  the  tubers  during  winter. 

Preventive.— Plant  on  light  or  loamj^  well-drained  soil 
Plant  only  sound  and  disinfected  tubers.     Hill  deep. 

Remedy. — Spray  the  tops  with  Bordeaux  mixture,  or  other 
fungicide,  upon  the  first  indication  of  the  blight,  and  make 
three  or  more  applications  at  intervals  of  ten  days  or  two 
weeks. 

The  tubers  should  be  stored  in  a  cool  and  dry  place.  Dust- 
ing them  in  the  cellar  with  dry  air-slaked  lime  is  to  be  recom- 
mended. Subjecting  the  tubers  to  a  temperature  of  105°  to 
110°  for  a  few  days  will  destroy  the  fungus  and  will  not 
injure  the  tubers  for  planting. 

There  is  another  kind  of  potato  blight  and  rot  widely  dis- 
ti'ibuted  over  the  country,  and  due  to  a  germ  or  bacterium. 
The  leaves  curl,  the  plant  droops  and  finally  dies,  and  the 
tubers  contract  a  putrid  rot.  Very  serious.  No  remedy  is 
known.    Practice  rotation. 


56  The   Horticulturisf  s   Rule- Book. 

Quince.  Leaf-Brownness  or  Blight  {Entomosporium  macu- 
latum,  L6v.,  var.  Cydonice,  Sacc). — Leaves  become  spotted 
and  then  turn  yellow  and  fall.  This  disease  often  causes 
considerable  damage.  It  is  nearly  identical  with  leaf-blight 
of  the  pear  (which  see) . 
Rust. — See  under  Apple. 
Raspberry.  Cane-Rust  or  Anthracnose  (Glceosporium  necator, 
E.  &  E.). — The  spots  or  patches  of  fungus  appear  on  both  the 
canes  and  leaves.  The  disease  attacks  the  base  of  the  canes 
fii'st  and  spread  upwards.  It  makes  sunken  patches  on  the 
canes  and  causes  the  fruit  to  dry  up. 

Preventive.  —Give  plants  an  abundance  of  light  and  air  by 
broad  planting  and  high  training. 

Remedy. — Spray  before  the  buds  swell  with  sulphate  of 
iron,  and  follow  later  with  Bordeaux  mixture  or  ammoniacal 
carbonate  of  copper.  Burn  all  canes  that  are  past  recovery. 
Red  or  Orange-Rust  (Cceoma  luminatum,  Link). — Attacks  the 
under  surface  of  the  leaves  of  black  and  sometimes  red  rasp- 
berries, and  of  blackberries,  in  patches  of  whitish  yeUow, 
but  the  fungus  finally  covers  the  whole  under  sm-face  with 
an  orange-red  coating. 

Preventive. — Plant  such  varieties  as  are  least  susceptible 
to  attack.  Among  blackberries,  Kit ta tinny  is  particularly 
susceptible. 

Remedies. — Burn  the  plants,  roots  and  branch,  as  soon  as 
the  disease  appears.  Bordeaux  mixture  may  be  tried. 
Rose.  Leaf-Blight  or  Black-Spot  {Actinonema  rosa,  Fries). 
— Attacks  the  full-grown  leaves,  fli-st  appearing  as  smaU 
black  spots,  but  later  covering  nearly  or  quite  the  whole  sur- 
face with  blotches.  The  spots  have  frayed  edges.  Common 
in  outdoor  and  house-culture. 

Remedies. — In  the  house,  fumes  of  sulphur.  Outdoors, 
burn  the  affected  leaves  and  spray  with  Bordeax  mixture  or 
ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper.  Spraj^  before  the  leaves 
unfold. 
Leaf-Spot  {Cercospora  roscecola.,  Pass.). — Black  or  reddish 
black  spots  on  the  leaves,  shading  into  red  at  the  definite 
edges.  Later  the  center  of  the  spot  becomes  light  brown  or 
gray.     Attacks  plants  growing  outdoors. 

Remedies. — Burn  diseased  parts.  Plant  in  an  aii\v  and  dry 
place.    Spray  with  copper  fungicides. 


Plant- Diseases.  57 

Rose,  continued. 
Mildew  (Splicerothecapannosa,  L6 v.).— Whitish  mildew  attack- 
ing roses.     It  is  brought  on,   according   to  Maynard,   by- 
exposure  to  drafts  of  extremely  cold  air  when  the  plants  are 
growing  rapidly,  by  high  temperature  running  the  same  day 
and  night,  by  watering  just  before  night,  by  too  little  water, 
by  extreme  dryness,  by  poor  drainage,   by  deficiency  in 
plant-food. 
Remedies. — Fumes  of  sulphur.     Copper  fungicides. 
Rust  {Phragmidium  mucronatum,  Winter). — Appears  in  small 
and  scattered  bright  yellow  spots  or  pustules  on  the  leaves, 
which  at  length  become  distorted,  and  upon  the  young  growth. 
Remedy. — Spray  with  Bordeaux   mixture  or  other  fungi- 
cides. 

Spinage.— Several  fungi  attack  the  spinage,  of  which  the  follow- 
ing are  the  Avorst : 

Mildew  {Peronospora  effusa,  Rabeuh.). — Producing  violet-gray 
patches  upon  the  under  side  of  the  leaves  and  yellow  spots 
above ; 

Anthracnose  (CoUetrotriehum  Spinacece,  Ell.  &  Hals.). — Pro- 
ducing brown  and  gray  blotches  upon  the  leaves  ; 

Leaf-Blight  {Phyllosticta  Chenopodii,  Sacc). — Forming  many 
minute  pimples  on  the  leaf,  usually  upon  its  under  surface ; 

Whit  Smut  {Entyloma  Ellisii,  Hals.).— Covering  the  whole  leaf 
with  a  white  coat. 

Remedies. — No  definite  remedies  are  yet  known  for  these 
diseases.  Sprays  of  some  of  the  sulphur  fungicides  may 
check  them.  Burning  all  affected  plants,  and  rotation,  are  to 
be  advised. 
Strawberry.  Mildew  {Sprceotheca  Castagnei,  L6v.).— A  whitish 
cobweb-like  mildew  spreading  over  the  fruit  and  leaves. 

Remedy. — If  the  disease  is  discovered  early  enough,  some 
liquid  fungicide,  as  ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper  or  Bor- 
deaux mixture,  should  be  employed. 

Strawberry  Leaf-Blight  or  Sun-Burn  {Sphcerella  fragariw, 
Sacc,  including  Ramxdaria). — Small  purple,  or  red  spots 
appearing  on  the  leaves.  They  eventually  become  larger  and 
browner,  making  the  leaf  appear  blotched. 

Remedies.— Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture  or  ammoniacal 
carbonate  of  copper  at  intervals  of  two  weeks,  beginning 


58  The   Horticulturisf  s   Rule- Book. 

Strawberry  (Strawberry  Leaf -Blight  or  Sun-Burn),  continued. 

as  soon  as  the  fruit  is  picked.  Destroy  all  affected  leaves. 
The  leaves  are  easily  destroyed  without  injury  to  the  plants 
by  quickly  burning  off  a  thin  layer  of  straw  which  is  spread 
over  the  patch  after  the  fruit  is  off. 
Sweet-Potato.  Black-Rot  (Ceratocystis  fimbHata,  E.  «&  Hals.).— 
A  dry-rot  of  the  tuber,  and  a  black  rust  upon  the  stems. 
Upon  the  tuber  it  appears  in  large  scab-like  patches,  and  is 
usually  evident  at  digging  time.  It  may  appear  upon  the 
young  plants  in  the  hotbed  and  persist  upon  them  through- 
out the  season. 

iJemedies.— Rotation  of  crops.     Spray  the  young  plants,  if 
attack  is  feared,  with  some  copper  fungicides. 
Drt-Rot  {Phoma  batatce,  E.  &  Hals.).— The  upper  end  of  the 
tuber  becomes  dry  and  wrinkled  and  bears  a  multitude  of 
pimples,  and  its  iiesh  becomes  dry  and  powdery. 
Preventive. — Destroy  all  affected  tubers. 
Leaf-Blight    (Phyllosticta   bataticola,    E.    &    M.). — Produces 
white,  dead  patches  upon  the  leaves, 
itemed  J/.— Spray  with  some  of  the  copper  fungicides. 
Scurf  (Monilochcetes  infuscans,  E.  &  Hals.). — The  whole  sur- 
face of  the  potato  becomes  scurfy,  and  it  causes  the  tuber  to 
shrink. 
Preventive. — Use  only  healthy  potatoes  for  seed. 
Soft-Rot  (Bhizopus  nigricans,  Ehr.). — The  tubers  rot  with  a 
soft  and  putrid  decay.    It  is  most  destructive  after  the  pota- 
toes are  stored. 

Preycntiye.— Store  in  a  well- ventilated,  artificially  warmed 
room,  at  a  temperature  of  about  70°.  Store  only  sound  and 
perfect  tubers,  and  remove  at  once  any  which  are  attacked. 
Soil-Rot  {Acrocystis  batatas,  E.  &  Hals.). — The  tubers  are 
attacked  when  young,  and  the  diseased  portion  ceases  to 
grow,  causing  the  potato  to  become  constricted  or  variously 
contorted. 

Preventive. — Rotation.     It  is  probable  that  the  sweet-potato 

cannot  be  grown  again  safely  on  infested  soil  for  a  i^umber 

of  years. 

Stem-Rot,  Black-Shank.— An  obscure  disease  attacking  the 

young  shoots  near  the  ground  and  the  tops  of  the  j'^oung 


Plant- Diseases. 


59 


Sweet-Potato  (Stem-Rot),  continued. 

tubers,  causing  the  tubers  to  rot  away  above,  and  to  send  up 
sprouts  below  the  injured  portion. 

Preventive. — Rotation.  Heat  the  soil  used  for  seed-bed. 
White-Mold  or  Leaf-Mold  (Cystoims  Ipomwa-pandurancey 
Farl.)— The  leaves  become  pale  and  brown  patches  appear, 
and  small  whitish  patches  occur  on  the  under  surface.  It 
thrives  upon  the  wild  potato-vine  or  man-of-the-earth 
(Ipomcea  pandurata) . 

Preventive. — Destroy  the  wild  potato-vine  upon  which  the 
fungus  grows. 

Remedy. Some  copper  fungicide  applied  in  a  spray. 
White-Rot. — This  disease  causes   portions  of   the  tuber   to 
become  white  and  chalk-like,  and  sometimes  the  whole  tuber 
assumes  a  chalk-like  consistency. 

Preventive. — Use  only  healthy  stock,  and  probably  a  rota- 
tion of  crops  will  be  useful. 
Tomato.  Blight  {Cladosporium  fulvum,  Cooke). — Soft  brown 
irregular  spots  appear  on  the  under  surface  of  the  leaves, 
and  the  upper  surface  becomes  spotted  with  yellow.  The 
leaves  finally  shrivel.     Most  serious  in  greenhouses. 

Preventive. — In  houses,  keep  the  temperature  as  even  as 
possible.    In  particular,  avoid  sudden  changes. 

Remedy. — Bordeaux  mixture  or  ammoniacal  carbonate  of 
copper  sprayed  on  the  plants  every  week  or  ten  days. 
Rot  {Macrosporium  tomato). — The  rotting  of  the  nearly  grown 
or  ripe  fruit. 

Preventive. — The  small  cherry  and  plum  tomatoes  are  not 
attacked,  and  the  old-fashioned  angular  sorts  are  compara- 
tively free.  Training  the  vines  so  as  to  give  the  fruit  plenty 
of  light  and  air  is  usually  useful.  Heavy  applications  of 
fresh  stable-manure  appear  to  augment  the  injury.  Burn 
all  infested  ^nines  and  fruits  in  the  autumn. 

Remedy. — Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture. 

The  bacterial  potato-blight  or  rot  also  attacks  tomatoes. 
See  under  Potato. 
Verbena.     Rust  {Oidium  erysiphoides) . — A  rust  which  appears  on 
the  leaves,  eventually  destroying  the  plants. 

Preventives. — Start  with  perfectly  healthy  and  vigorous 
stock,  and  give  good  culture.  In  the  house,  endeavor  to 
avoid  drafts,  but  give  plenty  of  air  on  bright  days. 


6o  The   Horticulturisf  s   Rule- Book. 

Verbena  (Rust),  continued. 

Remedy. — Sulphide  of  potassium  sprayed  upon  the  plants 
every  few  days. 

Violet.  Violet  Disease  or  Rust  {Peronospora  Fiolcc,  DeBary  ?). 
— Appears  on  the  leaves  as  small  rounded  black  or  brown 
spots,  causing  the  leaf  finally  to  wither  and  die. 

Preventives. — It  is  supposed  that  any  neglect  or  improper 
handling  renders  the  plants  more  liable  to  the  disease.  Burn 
all  infested  plants,  and  do  not  use  the  same  soil  again  for 
violets.     Sprays  of  copper  compounds. 

Watermelon.    Anthracnose  or  Pod-Rust. — See  under  Bean. 


Inasmuch  as  the  growth  of  one  year  determines  the  possihility  of 
a  crop  in  the  succeeding  year,  it  follows  that  judicious  sprayings  by 
keeping  the  foliage  healthy,  must  bring  larger  crops;  and  this 
secondary  result  of  spraying  is  usually  as  important  as  the  immediate 
result.  There  are  failures  and  discouragements  in  spraying,  but 
they  are  fewer  than  in  most'  other  horticultural  operations  even 
iJjough  the  practice  is  yet  comparatively  new. 


CHAPTER    V. 


Injuries    from    Mice,    Rabbits,    Squirrels    and 
Birds,   with  Preventives  and  Remedies. 

To  prevent  mice  from  girdling  trees  in  winter.— In  heeling-in 
young  trees  in  the  fall,  do  not  use  straw  or  litter,  in  which 
mice  can  make  their  nests.  In  orchards,  see  that  tall  grass, 
corn-husks,  or  other  dry  material  does  not  gather  about  the 
trees  in  fall.  If  danger  from  mice  is  apprehended,  tramp 
the  first  snow  firmly  about  the  trees,  in  order  to  compact  the 
grass  and  litter  so  that  mice  cannot  fi.nd  shelter.  Where  the 
paper-birch  grows,  it  will  be  found  a  good  plan  to  place  sec- 
tions of  birch-bark  from  limbs  or  small  trunks  about  the 
base  of  the  tree.  These  sections  roll  up  tightly  about  the 
tree,  and  yet  expand  so  readily  with  the  growth  of  the  tree 
that  they  may  be  allowed  to  remain.  Tie  thin  strips  of  wood, 
as  laths  or  shingles,  about  the  tree. 

Washes  to  protect  trees  from  mice.— Wash  the  trees  with  some 
persistent  substance  in  which  is  placed  Paris  green.  Maj^- 
nard  finds  the  following  substances  useful  for  holding  the 
poison:  Portland  cement  of  the  consistency  of  common 
paint ;  Portland  cement  10  parts  and  gas-tar  1  part ;  Portland 
cement  10  parts  and  asphaltum  1  part ;  Portland  cement  10 
parts  and  Morrill's  tree-ink  1  part. 

Lime-wash,  to  which  is  added  a  little  sulphur,  tobacco-de- 
coction, and  soap-suds.  * 

Carbonate  of  baryta  for  rats  and  mice. — Sugar  and  oatmeal  or 
wheat  flour,  of  each  6  ozs. ;  carbonate  of  baryta,  3^  lb. ;  oil 
of  anise-seed,  enough  to  give  the  mixture  a  pretty  strong  odor. 

Tartar  emetic  fos  rats  and  mice.— Tartar  emetic,  1  part,  oatmeal- 
or  flour,  4  parts ;  beef  or  mutton  suet  enough  to  make  all 
into  a  paste. 

C6i) 


62  The  Horticulturisf  s  Rule- Book. 

Camplior  for  rats  and  mice.— Mix  a  few  pieces  of  camphor  with 
vegetable  seeds,  to  preserve  them. 

French  paste  for  rats  and  mice.— Oatmeal  or  wheat  flour,  3  lb. ; 
powdered  indigo,  3^  oz. ;  finely  powdered  white  arsenic,  4 
ozs. ;  oil  of  anise-seed,  3^  drachm.  Mix,  and  add  of  melted 
beef  suet  or  mutton  tallow  2X  lbs.,  and  work  the  whole  up 
into  a  paste. 

Wash  for  keeping  rabbits,  sheep  and  mice  away  from  trees. — 
Fresh  lime,  slaked  with  soft  water  (old  soap-suds  are  best) ; 
make  the  wash  the  thickness  of  fence  or  house  wash.    When 

ie  carbolic 
Stir  well. 

For  summer  wash  leave  gas-tar  out,  and  add  in  place  of  it  1 
gallon  of  soft  soap.  To  keep  rabbits  and  sheep  from  gird- 
ling, wash  late  in  fall,  or  about  the  time  of  frost,  as  high  as 
one  can  reach. 

To  remedy  the  injury  done  by  mice  and  rabbits. — 

1.  Pare  and  clean  the  wound,  and  cover  it  thickly  with 
fresh  cow-dung,  or  soft  clay,  and  bind  it  up  thoroughly  with 
a  cloth.  Grafting-wax  bound  on  is  also  good.  Complete 
girdling,  when  done  late  in  spring— when  settled  weather  is 
approaching — can  be  remedied  in  this  manner. 

2.  Insert  long  scions  over  the  wound,  by  paring  them  thin 
on  both  ends  and  placing  one  end  under  the  bark  on  the  upper 
edge  of  the  wound  and  the  other  under  the  bark  on  the  lower 
edge.  Wax  thoroughly  the  points  of  union,  and  tie  a  cloth 
band  about  the  trees  over  both  extremities  of  the  scions. 

Blood  for  rabbits. — Blood  smeared  upon  trees,  as  high  up  as  rab- 
bits can  reach,  will  keep  them  away. 

To  drive  rabbits  from  orchards.— Dip  rags  in  melted  sulphur  and 
then  secure  them  to  sticks  which  are  stuck  promiscuously 
through  the  orchard. 

It  should  be  an  imperative  rule  with  all  orchardists  not  to 
alldw  brush  heaps  or  piles  of  poles  and  rails  to  remain  upon 
their  premises  if  rabbits  are  ti'oublesome  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, for  it  is  in  such  places  that  the  animals  live. 

Wash  to  protect  trees  from  rabbits. — Fresh  cow-dung,  1  peck; 
quick-lime,  }4.  peck;  flowers  of  sulphur,  %  pound;  lamp- 
black, %  pound.  Mix  the  whole  into  a  thick  paint  with  urine 
and  soap-suds. 


Injuries  from   Mice^  Rabbits,  Etc.  63 

California  rabbit-wash.— Commercial  aloes,  1  pound  to  4  gallons 
of  water,  both  sprinkled  on  leaves  and  painted  on  the  bark, 
gives  a  bitter  taste,  which  repels  rabits. 

California  rabbit-poisons. — 

1.  Pieces  of  watermelon,  canteloupe,  or  other  vegetables 
of  which  they  are  fond,  may  be  poisoned  with  strychnine  and 
then  scattered  around  the  orchard. 

2.  To  100  pounds  of  wheat  take  9  gallons  of  water  and  1 
pound  of  phosphorus,  1  pound  of  sugar,  and  1  ounce  oil  of 
rhodium.  Heat  the  water  to  boiling  point  and  let  it  stand 
all  night.  Next  morning  stir  in  flour  sufficient  to  make  a  sort 
of  paste.    Scatter  it  about  the  place. 

3.  Another  preparation  is  )^  teaspoonful  of  powdered 
strychnine,  2  teaspoonfuls  of  fine  salt,  and  4  of  granulated 
sugar.  Put  all  in  a  tin  box  and  shake  well.  Pour  in  small 
heaps  on  a  board.  It  hardens  into  a  solid  mass.  Rabbits 
lick  it  for  the  salt,  and  the  sugar  disguises  the  poison. 

Sulphur  for  rabbits.— Equal  proportions  of  sulphur,  soot  and 
lime,  made  into  a  thick  paint  with  cow  manure.  Smear 
upon  the  trees. 

Cow-mannre  for  rabbits. — A  mixture  of  lime,  water  and  cow- 
manure,  made  strong,  forms  an  excellent  anti-rabbit  com- 
position. 

Asafoetida  for  rabbits. — A  teaspoonful  of  tincture  ©f  asafoetida 
in  )4.  pailful  of  liquid  clay,  mud,  or  muck  of  any  kind. 
Apply  with  a  brush  to  the  stem  and  branches  of  young  trees. 
Two  or  three  applications  during  winter. 

California  ground-squirrel  remedies. — Take  5  quarts  of  clean 
wheat ;  scald  with  water ;  drain.  Take  %  cup  of  white  sugar, 
dissolve  with  sufficient  water  to  make  a  syrup ;  add  1  ounce 
powdered  strychnine,  stir  thoroughly  until  a  thin  paste  is 
formed.  Pour  this  on  the  damp  wheat.  Stir  thoroughly  for 
at  least  15  minutes.  Add  1  pint  powdered  sugar,  stir;  add 
5  to  10  drops  of  rhodium  and  5  to  10  drops  of  oil  of  aflise-seed. 
Place  a  few  grains  in  each  squirrel-hole,  putting  it  as  far  in 
as  possible. 

Bisulphide  of  carbon  is  also  largely  used.  A  small  quan- 
tity is  poured  into  the  burrow,  and  the  hole  is  immediately 
closed  securely  with  dirt. 


64  The  Horticulturisf  s  Rule- Book. 

California  ground-squirrel  remedies,  continued. 

Tying  newspapers  about  trees  in  such  manner  as  to  allow 
the  upper  part  of  the  paper  to  project  loosely  a  few  inches, 
frightens  the  squirrels  away. 

Poison  for  English  sparrows.— Dissolve  arseniate  of  soda  in  warm 
water  at  the  rate  of  1  ounce  to  1  pint;  pour  this  upon  as 
much  wheat  as  it  will  cover  (in  a  vessel  which  can  be  closed 
so  as  to  prevent  evaporation) ,  and  allow  it  to  soak  for  at  least 
24  hours.  Dry  the  wheat  so  prepared,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 
It  should  be  distributed  in  winter  in  places  where  the  spar- 
rows congregate. 

Bird-poisons. — 

1.  Place  a  shallow  box  on  the  end  of  a  pole  and  put  it  4  or 
5  feet  from  the  ground  to  keep  the  poison  out  of  the  way  of 
domestic  fowls.  In  the  box  sprinkle  corn-meal  and  a  very 
little  strychnine,  which  mixture  the  birds  eat.  It  will  not 
hurt  dogs  or  cats  to  eat  the  dead  bird  for  the  reason  that 
there  is  not  enough  poison  absorbed  by  the  bird.  (Califor- 
nian). 

2.  Put  the  strychnine  in  pieces  of  apples  and  stick  them 
on  the  ends  of  limbs  of  the  trees.     (Californian.) 

To  protect  fruits  from  birds. — One  of  the  best  devices  is  mosquito- 
bar  spread  over  the  bushes  or  trees.  For  bush-fruits  and 
and  small  trees  the  expense  is  not  great. 

Have  a  taxidermist  mount  several  hawks,  and  place  them 
in  natural  positions  in  the  trees  or  vines. 

To  protect  newly  planted  seeds.  Coat  the  seeds  with  red  lead, 
by  moistening  the  seeds  slightly  and  stirring  in  red  lead 
until  all  the  seeds  are  thoroughly  coated.  Let  the  seeds 
dry  for  two  or  three  hours  before  sowing. 

To  protect  planted  corn  from  crows. — Dip  the  kernels  in  coal-tar 
and  then  dust  them  with  plaster. 

.:.     .:.     4,     ^ 

Tht  father  of  humankind  himself  ordains 

The  husbandman  should  tread  no  path  of  flowers, 

"^ut  waken  the  earth  with  sleepless  pains. 
So  pricket h  he  these  indolent  hearts  of  ours. 

—Virgil. 


CHAPTER   VI. 


Weeds  and  Moss. 


Weeds  in  general.— Weeds  rarely  trouble  the  good  cultivator, 
particularly  in  vegetable  gardening.  Intensive  methods  of 
cultivation  allow  no  weeds  to  appear.  It  is  economy,  both  in 
labor  and  returns  from  the  crop,  to  prevent  weeds  from  ap- 
pearing, rather  than  to  hoe  or  pull  them  out  after  they  are 
partly  grown  and  have  done  some  damage.  Frequent  light 
stirrings  of  the  soil  with  cultivator,  harrow  or  rake  are  the 
cheapest  mode  of  weed  destruction.  In  the  struggle  with 
weeds  it  is  well  to  consider  the  longevity  of  the  various  spe- 
cies. Annual  weeds,  those  which  naturally  die  after  the 
season's  growth,  require  no  special  treatment.  Biennial 
species,  those  which  die  at  the  end  of  the  second  year,  may 
be  held  in  check  by  preventing  them  from  seeding,  as  by 
mowing  them  when  coming  into  flower.  Examples  of  this 
class  are  the  mullein,  wild  carrot  and  field  or  bull-thistle. 
Perennial  species,  those  which  live  indefinitely,  often  require 
particular  treatment.  Some  of  the  worst  perennial  species 
are  Canada  thistle,  white  or  ox-eye  daisy,  toad-flax,  live-for- 
ever, docks,  and  various  grasses.  Very  frequent,  persistent 
and  thorough  cultivation  will  destroy  any  of  these.  Culti- 
vation should  be  repeated  even  before  the  weeds  recover 
sufficiently  to  take  root  again.  Seeding  down  and  mowing 
the  weeds  with  the  hay  will  destroy  most  weeds.  In  dry 
and  sandj"^  soils  three  or  four  thorough  plowings  during  the 
season  will  destroy  Canada  thistles  and  other  pests,  particu- 
larly in  dry  years,  but  on  richer  and  retentive  soils  greater 
thoroughness  must  be  practiced. 

Weeds  in  lawns. — Weeds  usually  come  up  thickly  in  newly 
sown  lawns.  They  are  to  be  prevented  hy  the  use  of  com- 
mercial fertilizers  or  very  clean  manure  and  clean  grass- 
B-5  .  (65) 


66  The   Horticulturisf  s   Rule- Book. 

Weeds  in  Lawns,  continued. 

seed.  Clean  june-grass,  or  blue-grass,  seed  is  usually  best. 
Grass-seed  should  be  sown  vei-y  thickly — 2  to  4  bu.  to  the 
acre— and  annual  weeds  cannot  persist  long.  Frequent 
mowings  during  summer  will  keep  the  w^eeds  down,  and 
most  species  will  not  survive  the  winter.  In  old  lawns  most 
perennial  weeds  can  be  kept  down  by  frequent  mowings  with 
a  good  lawn-mower.  Grass  can  stand  more  cutting  than 
weeds.  If  mowing  cannot  be  practiced  often  enough  for  this 
purpose,  the  weeds  may  be  cut  off  below  the  surface  with  a 
long  knife  or  spud,  and  the  crowns  are  then  readily  pulled 
out.  Or  a  little  sulphuric  acid — oil  of  A^trol — may  be  poured 
upon  the  crown  of  each  plant. 
3.  Weeds  on  Walks.  —Walks  should  be  so  made  that  weeds  can- 
not grow  in  them.  This  can  be  done  by  making  a  deep  stone 
foundation  and  filling  between  the  stones  with  cinders,  coal 
ashes,  or  other  similar  material.  But  when  weeds  become 
established  they  can  be  destroyed  by  the  following  methods : 

Salt.— Hot  brine  (1  lb.  of  salt  to  1  gal.  of  water),  boiled 
in  a  kettle  on  wheels  and  dipped  out  into  watering-pots. 
Brine  is  better  than  dry  salt,  because  it  leaves  very  little 
color  upon  the  walk. 

Lime  ad  Sulphur.— 10  gals,  of  water,  20  lbs.  of  quick-lime 
and  2  lbs.  flowers  of  sulphur  are  boiled  in  an  iron  vessel. 
After  settling,  the  clear  part  is  dipped  off  and  used  when 
needed.    Care  must  be  taken,  as  it  will  destroy  edgings. 

Oil  of  Vitriol.— 1  part  oil  of  vitriol  (sulphuric  acid)  to  30 
parts  of  water.  Applj^  with  a  watering-pot.  Choose  a  clear 
evening  after  a  hot  day.  Keep  clear  of  the  edgings.  The 
pot  should  be  well  painted,  or  a  wooden  pail  should  be  used. 

Arsenite  of  Soda. — Place  1  lb.  of  powdered  arsenic  in  3 
gals,  of  cold  water,  boil  and  keep  stirring;  then  add  7  gals, 
of  cold  water  and  2  lbs.  of  crushed  soda;  stir  well  while 
boiling.     Apply  in  drj'  weather. 

Carbolic  Acid. — 1  oz.  of  carbolic  acid  to  1  gal.  of  water, 
sprinkled  over  the  path  from  a  common  watering-pot.  Will 
also  destroy  ants. 

Coal-tar  Coating. — Mix  coal-tar  with  gi'avel  to  the  con- 
sistency of  mortar ;  spread  over  the  path  1  to  2  in.  thick ; 
cover  this  with  gravel,  then  roll  and  add  another  thin  coating 
of  gravel  to  finish. 


Weeds  and  Moss.  67 

Moss  on  Walks  and  Lawns.— In  damp  and  shady  places,  and 
also  in  sterile  places,  moss  may  appear  on  walks  and  lawns. 
If  the  conditions  cannot  be  improved,  the  following  treat- 
ments may  be  tried : 

1  lb.  oil  of  vitriol  (sulphuric  acid)  to  10  qts.  of  water.  Wet 
the  surface  thoroughly,  being  careful  not  to  sprinkle  edgings 
or  good  sod. 

In  early  spring,  while  the  ground  is  soft,  work  it  back- 
wards and  forwards,  with  a  long-toothed  rake,  in  order  to 
bring  the  moss  to  the  surface.  Clear  away  the  moss  and 
leave  the  ground  untouched  for  a  fortnight.  Early  in  March 
repeat  the  operation,  and  about  the  middle  of  that  month 
apply  a  dressing  of  rich  compost,  which  may  consist  of  any 
old  rubbish  well  decomposed,  adding  1-6  of  fresh  lime.  Mix 
with  compost  a  few  days  before  using.  Cover  the  ground 
with  the  compost  at  the  rate  of  200  barrow-loads  per  acre, 
passing  it  through  a  %\x\ .  sieve,  to  save  the  trouble  of  roll- 
ing. Rake  it  evenly  over  the  surface  with  a  wooden  rake, 
and  when  dry  seed  down.  An  English  method. 
Moss  on  Trees.— Moss  on  fruit-trees  is  usually  an  indication  of 
lack  of  vigor.  Cultivate  and  prune.  Wash  the  trees  with 
soap  or  lye  washes.  Scrape  off  the  bark,  exercising  care  not 
to  expose  the  ''quick,"  or  the  tender  inner  bark.  A  good 
scraper  is  made  of  a  small  and  much-worn  hoe  with  the 
handle  cut  to  about  two  feet  long. 


m 

MSI 


/  went  by  the  field  of  the  sloth/til,  and  hy  the  vineyard  of  the  man 
void  of  understanding;  and  lo,  it  was  all  grown  over  with  thorns^ 
and  nettles  covered  the  face  thereof,  and  the  stone  wall  thereof  was 
broken  down. — Solomon. 


CHAPTER    VII. 


Waxes    for    Grafting   and    for    Wounds. 

Common  Resin  and  Beeswax  Waxes.— 

1.  Reliable  Wax. — Resin,  4  parts  by  weight,  beeswax,  2 
parts,  tallow,  1  part.  Melt  together  and  pour  into  a  pail  of 
cold  water.  Then  grease  the  hands  and  pull  the  wax  until 
it  is  nearly  white.     One  of  the  best  waxes. 

2.  Resin,  4  lbs. ;  beeswax,  1  lb. ;  tallow,  1  lb. 

3.  Resin,  6  lbs. ;  beeswax,  2  lbs. ;  linseed  oil,  1  pt. 

4.  6  lbs.  resin,  1  lb.  beeswax  and  1  pt.  linseed  oil ;  apply 
hot  with  a  brush,  one-eighth  of  an  inch  thick  over  all  the 
joints. 

5.  For  Warm  Weather.* — 4  lbs.  of  resin,  1  lb.  of  bees- 
wax, and  from  half  to  a  pint  of  raw  linseed  oil ;  melt  all  to- 
gether gradually,  and  turn  into  water  and  pull.  The  linseed 
oil  should  be  entirelj^  free  from  cotton-seed  oil. 

6.  Resin,  6  parts ;  beeswax,  1  part ;  tallow,  1  part.  To  be 
used  warm,  in  the  house. 

7.  Resin,  4  or  five  parts ;  beeswax,  13^  to  2  parts ;  lin- 
seed oil.  1  to  1}4  parts.     For  outdoor  work. 

Alcoholic  Waxes.— 

8.  Lefort's  Liquid  Grafting  Wax,  or  Alcoholic  Pla?- 
Tic. — Best  white  resin,  1  lb. ;  beef  tallow,  1  oz. ;  remove 
from  the  fire  and  add  8  ozs.  of  alcohol.  Keep  in  closed  bottles 
or  cans. 

9.  Alcoholic  Plastic  with  Beeswax.  Melt  6  parts 
white  resin  with  1  part  beeswax ;  remove  from  stove  and  par- 
tially cool  by  stirring,  then  add  gradually— with  continued 
stirring— enough  alcohol  to  make  the  mixture,  when  cool,  of 
the  consistency  of    porridge.      In  the  temperature  of   the 

68 


Waxes  for   Grafting  and  for    Wounds.        69 

AlcohoUc  Waxes  (Alcoholic  Plastic  with  Beeswaxj,  continued. 

grafting-room  it  wiU  remain  sufficiently  plastic  to  permit 
applying  to  the  cut  surfaces  with  the  finger. 

10.  Alcoholic  Plastic  with  Turpentine.— Best  white 
resin,  1  lb.;  beef  tallow,  1  oz. ;  turpentine,  1  teaspoonful; 
add  enough  alcohol  (13  to  15  fluid  ozs.  of  95  per  cent,  alcohol) 
to  make  the  wax  of  the  consistency  of  honey.  Or,  less  alco 
hoi  may  be  added  if  the  wax  is  to  be  used  with  the  fingers 

3.    Frencli  and  Pitch  Waxes.— 

11.  Common  French. -Pitch,  3^  lb.;  beeswax,  3^  lb., 
cow-dung,  1  lb.     Boil  together,  melt  and  apply  with  a  brush. 

12.  Common  French  Bandage  Wax. —Equal  parts  of 
beeswax,  turpentine  and  resin.  While  warm  spread  on 
strips  of  coarse  cotton  or  strong  paper. 

13.  Grafting  Clay.- ^  cow-dung,  free  from  straw,  and 
%  clay,  or  clayey  loam,  with  a  little  hair,  like  that  used  in 
plaster,  to  prevent  its  cracking.  Beat  and  temper  it  for  two 
or  three  days  until  it  is  thoroughly  incorporated.  When 
used  it  shoulf'  be  of  such  a  consistency  as  to  be  easily  put  on 
and  shaped  with  the  hands. 

14.  2  lbs.  12  ozs.  of  resin  and  1  lb.  11  ozs.  of  Burgundy 
pitch.  At  the  same  time,  melt  9  ozs.  of  tallow;  pour  the 
latter  into  the  former,  while  both  are  hot,  and  stir  the  mix- 
ture thoroughly.  Then  add  18  ozs.  of  red  ochre,  dropping  it 
in  gi-adually  and  stirring  the  mixture  at  the  same  time. 

15.  Black  pitch,  28  parts ;  Burgundy  pitch,  28  parts ;  bees- 
wax, 16  parts ;  grease,  14  parts ;  yellow  ochre,  14  parts. 

16.  Black  pitch,  28  lbs. ;  Burgundy  pitch,  28  lbs. :  yellow 
wax,  16  lbs.;  suet  or  tallow,  14  lbs.;  sifted  ashes,  14  lbs- 
When  used,  warm  sufficiently  to  make  it  liquid. 

17.  Melt  together  \}i  lb.  of  clear  resin  and  %  lb.  of  white 
pitch.  At  the  same  time  melt  3^  lb.  of  tallow.  Pour  the 
melted  tallow  into  the  first  mixture,  and  stir  vigorously. 
Then,  before  the  stufE  cools,  add,  slowly  stirring  meantime, 
X  lb.  of  Venetian  red.    This  may  be  used  warm  or  cold. 

4.    Waxed  String  and  Bandage.— 

18.  Waxed  String  for  Root-grafting.— Into  a  kettle  of 
melted  wax  place  balls  of  No.  18  knitting-cotton.  Turn  the 
balls  frequently,  and  in  five  minutes  they  will  be  thoroughly 
saturated,  when  they  are  dried  and  put  away  for  future  use. 


yo  The   Horticulturist's   Rule- Book. 

Waxed  String  and  Bandage,  continued. 

This  material  is  strong  enough,  and  at  the  same-time  breaks 
so  easily  as  not  to  injure  the  hands.  Any  of  the  resin  and 
beeswax  waxes  may  be  used.  \Vhen  the  string  is  used  it 
should  be  warm  enough  to  stick  without  tying. 

19.  Waxed  Cloth. — Old  calico  or  thin  muslin  is  rolled  on 
a  stick  and  placed  in  melted  wax.  AVhen  saturated  it  is  al- 
lowed to  cool  by  being  unrolled  on  a  bench.  It  is  then  cut  in 
strips  to  suit. 

5.    Waxes  for  Wounds.— 

20.  Any  of  the  more  adhesive  grafting-waxes  are  excel- 
lent for  dressing  wounds,  although  most  of  them  cleave  off 
after  the  first  year.     Stiff  and  ochreous  paints  are  also  good. 

21.  Coal-tab. — Apply  a  coating  of  coal-tar  to  the  wound, 
which  has  first  been  pared  and  smoothed.  If  the  wound 
contains  a  hole,  plug  it  with  seasoned  wood. 

22.  HosKiNs'  Wax.— Boil  pine-tar  slowly  for  three  or  four 
hours ;  add  3^  lb.  of  beeswax  to  a  quart  of  the  tar.  Have 
ready  some  dry  and  finely  sifted  clay,  and  when  the  mixture 
of  tar  and  wax  is  partly  cold,  stir  into  the  above-named 
quantity  about  12  ozs.  of  the  clay;  continue  the  stirring 
until  the  mixture  is  so  stiff,  and  so  nearly  cool,  that  the  clay 
will  not  settle.  This  is  soft  enough  in  mild  weather  to  be 
easily  applied  with  a  knife  or  spatula. 

23.  Sch^fell's  Healixg-Paixt.— Boil  linseed  oil  (free 
from  cotton-seed  oil)  one  hour,  with  an  oz.  of  litharge  to  each 
pt.  of  oil ;  then  stir  in  sifted  wood-ashes  until  the  paint  is  of 
the  proper  consistency.  Pare  the  bark  until  smooth,  as  the 
fuzzy  edge  left  by  the  saw  will  cause  it  to  die  back.  Paint 
the  wound  over  in  dry  weather,  and  if  the  wound  is  very 
large,  cover  with  a  gunny-sack. 

24.  Tar  for  Bleeding  ix  Vines.— Add  to  tar  about  3  or  4 
times  its  weight  of  powdered  slate  or  some  similar  substance. 

25.  Hot  Iron  for  Bleeding  in  Vines.— Apply  a  hot  iron 
to  the  bare  surface  until  it  is  charred,  and  then  rub  into  the 
charred  surface  a  paste  made  of  newlj^-burnt  lime  and  grease. 

26. — Collodion  for  Bleeding  in  Vines. — In  some  extreme 
cases  2  or  3  coats  will  be  needed,  in  which  case  allow  the 
collodion  to  form  a  film  before  applying  another  coat.  Phar- 
maceutical coUodion  is  better  t^an  photographic. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


Cements,   Mortars,   Paints   and    Glues. 

Cement  and  Mortar.— 

Cements  for  Iron.— 1.  Sal  ammoniac,  2  ozs. ;  sulphur, 
1  oz. ;  clean  iron-boring-s  or  filings  reduced  to  powder,  12  lbs. ; 
water  enough  to  form  a  thin  paste. 

2.  Sal  ammoniac,  2  ozs. ;  iron-filings,  8  lbs. ;  sufiBcient 
water.    • 

3.  1  or  2  parts  of  sal  ammoniac  to  lUO  of  iron  filings. 
When  the  work  is  required  to  set  quickly,  increase  the  S9,l 
ammoniac  slightly  and  add  a  small  amount  of  sulphur. 

4.  Iron-filings,  4  lbs. ;  pipe-clay,  2  lbs. ;  powdered  pot- 
sherds, 11  lbs. ;  make  into  a  paste  with  moderately  strong 
brine. 

5.  Equal  parts  of  red  and  white  lead,  mixed  into  a  paste 
with  boiled  linseed  oil.  Used  for  making  metallic  joints  of 
all  kinds. 

6.  To  4  or  5  parts  of  clay,  thoroughly  dried  and  pulverized, 
add  2  parts  of  iron-filings,  free  from  oxide,  1  part  of  peroxide 
of  manganese,  }4,  of  sea  salt  and  X  of  borax ;  mix  Avell,  and 
reduce  to  a  thick  paste  with  water.  Use  immediately.  Ex- 
pose to  warmth,  gradually  increasing  almost  to  white  heat. 

7.  Sifted  coal-ashes,  2  parts,  and  common  salt  1  part.  Add 
water  enough  to  make  a  paste  and  apply  at  once.  This  is 
also  good  for  stoves  and  boilers,  as  it  stands  heat. 

Boiler  Cements.— 1.  Chalk,  60  parts ;  lime  and  salt,  of 
each,  20  parts ;  sharp  sand,  10  parts ;  blue  or  red  clay  and 
clean  iron-filings,  of  each,  5  parts.  Grind  together  and  cal- 
cine or  heat. 

2.  Powdered  clay,  6  lbs. ;  iron-filings,  1  lb.  Make  into  a 
paste  with  linseed  oil. 

(71) 


72  The   HorticulturisV  s   Rule- Book. 

Cement  and  Mortar  (Boiler  Cement),  continued. 

3.  Powdered  litharge,  2  parts ;  silver  sand  and  slaked 
lime,  of  each,  1  part ;  boiled  oil  enough  to  form  a  paste. 

These  cements  are  used  for  stopping  leaks  and  cracks  in 
boilers,  iron  pipes,  stoves,  etc.  They  should  be  applied  as 
soon  as  made. 

Tar  Cement. — Coal-tar,  1  part ;  powdered  slate  (slate 
flour) ,  3  or  4  parts ;  mix  by  stirring  until  thoroughly  incor- 
porated. Very  useful  for  mending  watering-pots,  barrels, 
leaky  sash,  etc.  It  remains  somewhat  elastic.  It  does  not 
adhere  to  greasy  surfaces.  It  will  keep  for  a  long  time  be- 
fore using. 

Copper  Cement.— Beef  blood  thickened  with  sufficient 
finely  powdered  quick-lime  to  make  it  into  a  paste  is  used  to 
secure  the  edges  and  rivets  of  copper  boilers,  kettles,  etc. 
Use  immediately. 

Fireproof  or  Stone  Cement. — Fine  river  sand,  20  parts; 
litharge,  2  parts;  quick-lime,  1  part;  linseed  oil  enough 
to  form  a  thick  paste.  Used  for  walls  and  broken  stone- 
work. 

EA.RTHENWARE  Cement.— Grated  cheese,  2  parts  ;  pow- 
dered quick-lime,  1  part ;  fresh  white  of  ^^^  enough  to  form 
a  paste.    Use  as  soon  as  possible. 

For  fine  earthenware,  liquid  glue  may  be  used. 

Cement  for  Glass. — Methylated  spirit  suflQcient  to  render 
liquid  a  half  dozen  pieces  of  gum-mastic  the  size  of  a  large 
pea ;  in  another  bottle  dissolve  the  same  quantity  of  isin- 
glass, which  has  been  soaked  in  water  and  allowed  to  get 
surface  dry,  in  2  oz.  of  methylated  spirits ;  when  the  first  is 
dissolved  add  2  pieces  of  either  gum-galbanum  or  gum-am- 
moniac ;  apply  gentle  heat  and  stir ;  add  the  solution  of  isin- 
glass, heat  again  and  stir.  Keep  in  a  tightly  stoppered 
bottle,  and  when  used  set  in  boiling  water. 

Sealing-Cements.— 1.  Beeswax,  1  lb. ;  resin,  5  lbs.  Stir  in 
sufficient  red  ochre  and  Brunswick  green,  or  lamp-black,  to 
give  the  desired  color. 

2.  Black  pitch,  6  lbs. ;  ivory-black  and  whiting,  of  each, 
1  lb.    Less  attractive  than  the  former. 

These  are  used  for  sealing  up  bottles,  barrels,  etc. 


Cenierits,  Mortars,  Paints   arid   Glues.         73 

Cement  and  Mortar,  continued. 

Mortar  for  Heavy  Rubble-Work  or  Brick-Work. — 
1  part  of  slaked  lime,  2  parts  of  sand  and  X  P^rt  of  black- 
smith's ashes;  for  brick-work,  1  part  of  lime,  1  of  sand  and 

1  of  blacksmith's  ashes. 

Approximate  Estimates  or  Masox  -  Work. — 3^^  barrels 
of  lime  are  required  to  cover  100  square  yards  plastering, 
two  coats. 

2  barrels  of  lime  will  cover  100  square  yards  plastering, 
one  coat. 

1%  bushels  of  hair  are  needed  for  100  square  yards  plas- 
tering. 

1/^  yards  good  sand  are  required  for  100  square  yards  of 
plastering.  ' 

X  barrel  of  plaster  (stucco)  will  hard-finish  100  square 
yards  plastering, 

1  barrel  of  best  lime  will  lay  1,000  bricks. 

3  barrels  of  lime  will  lay  one  cord  rubble-stone. 

X  barrel  of  lime  will  lay  1  perch  rubble-stone.  (Estimat- 
ing 3^  cord  to  perch. ) 

To  every  barrel  of  lime  estimate  about  ^-yard  of  good 
sand  for  plastering  and  brick-work. 
2.    Concrete,  etc,,  for  Floors,   Borders  and  Walks.— 

Grout  Floor. — 1.  To  secure  a  good  grout  or  cement  floor, 
make  a  good  foundation  of  small  stones  or  brickbats,  and 
cover  three  or  four  inches  thick  with  a  thin  mortar,  made  of 

2  parts  sharp  sand  and  1  part  water-lime. 

2.  Fresh  powdered  lime,  2  parts ;  Portland  cement,  1  part ; 
gravel,  broken  stone,  or  brick,  6  parts.  Mix  with  water  to 
a  liquid  consistency,  and  let  it  be  thrown  forcibly,  or  dropped 
into  its  position.  It  should  be  well  beaten  or  rammed  to 
render  it  solid. 

3.  Equal  parts  of  gravel,  well  screened,  and  clean  river  or 
pit  sand.  With  5  parts  of  sand  and  gravel,  mix  1  part  of 
Portland  cement.    Mix  with  water  and  apply  1  in.  thick. 

For  Garden  Borders. — Nine  parts  gravel  and  1  part  un- 
slaked lime ;  slake  the  lime  and  cover  it  with  gi^avel,  then 
add  water  sufficient  to  make  a  very  thin  mortar.  Apply  3 
in.  deep,  allow  it  to  stiffen  a  little,  then  roll.  Finish  with  an 
inch  thick  of  1  part  lime  and  3  parts  gravel.    Apply  soft. 


74  The   Horticidturisf  s   Rule- Book. 

Concrete,  etc.,  for  Floors,  Borders  and  "Walks,  continued. 

For  Walks.— Walks  should  always  have  a  well-made 
foundation  of  stones  or  brickbats  to  give  hardness  and  in 
sure  drainage.  The  top  of  the  walk  may  be  made  of  gravel, 
sifted  coal-ashes,  cinders  from  foundries,  furnaces,  etc.  If 
gravel  is  used,  care  should  be  exercised  to  avoid  the  round 
or  washed  gravel,  particularly  that  lying  in  the  beds  of 
streams,  for  it  will  not  pack.  One  part  of  clean  clay  to  4  or 
5  of  gravel  makes  a  good  walk.  Or  the  following  may  be 
used: 

1.  One  part  mineral  pitch,  1  part  resin,  7  parts  chalk  and 
2  parts  coarse  sand.  Boil  together,  and  lay  it  while  in  a  hot 
state,  adding  a  little  gravel. 

2.  Boil  for  a  short  time  18  parts  of  mineral  pitch  and  18 
parts  of  resin  in  an  iron  kettle ;  then  add  60  parts  of  coarse 
sand ;  mix  well,  and  lay  on  the  path  to  the  thickness  of  1  in. ; 
then  sift  a  little  fine  gravel  over  it,  and  beat  it  down  before 
the  cement  sets. 

3.  Put  down  a  coat  of  tar  and  sift  some  road-sand  or  coal- 
ashes  over  it  very  thickly.  When  this  is  dry  repeat  the  oper- 
ation until  you  have  4  coats  of  tar  and  as  many  of  coal-ashes 
or  road-sand. 

4.  Two  parts  of  thoroughly  dried  sand,  1  part  cinders, 
thoroughly  dried.  Mix  together ;  then  spread  the  sand  and 
cinders  on  the  ground  and  make  a  hole  in  the  center,  into 
which  pour  boiling  hot  tar  and  mix  into  a  stiff  paste ;  then 
spread  on  the  walk,  beat  and  roll. 

5.  Two  parts  lime  rubbish  and  1  part  coal-ashes,  both 
very  dry  and  finely  sifted ;  in  the  middle  of  the  heap  make 
a  hole;  into  this  pour  boiling  hot  coal-tar;  mix  to  a  stiff 
mortar  and  spread  on  the  ground  2  or  3  inches  thick.  The 
ground  should  be  dry  and  beaten  well.  Cover  with  coarse 
sand ;  when  cold,  roll  well. 

3.    Paints  and  Protective  Compounds.— 

Home-made  Washes  for  Fences  and  Out-buildings  may 
be  made  by  various  combinations  of  lime  and  grease.  The 
following  are  good  formulas : 

1.  Slake  fresh  quick-lime  in  water,  and  thin  it  to  a  paste 
or  paint  with  skim-milk.  The  addition  of  2  or  3  handfuls  of 
salt  to  a  pail  of  the  wash  is  beneficial 


Cements,  Mortars,  Pamts  and  Glues.  75 

Faints  and  Protective  Compounds,  continued. 

2.  2  qts.  skim-milk,  8  ozs.  of  fresh  slaked  lime,  6  ozs.  of 
boiled  linseed  oil  and  2  oz.  of  white  pitch,  dissolved  in  the 
oil  \)y  a  gentle  heat.  The  lime  must  be  slaked  in  cold  water 
and  dried  in  the  air  until  it  falls  into  a  fine  powder ;  then 
mix  with  %  part  of  the  milk,  adding  the  mixed  oil  and  pitch 
by  degrees ;  add  the  remainder  of  the  milk.  Lastly,  add  3 
lbs.  of  the  best  whiting  and  mix  the  whole  thoroughly. 

3.  Slake  }4  bu.  of  lime  in  boiling  water,  keeping  it  covered ; 
strain  and  add  brine  made  by  dissohing  1  pk.  of  salt  in 
warm  water,  and  3  lbs.  rice  flour,  then  boil  to  a  paste ;  add 
Xlb.  whiting  and  1  lb.  of  glue  dissolved  in  warm  water. 
Mix  and  let  stand  for  a  few  days  before  using. 

Fire-proof  Paint.— In  a  covered  vessel  slake  the  best 
quick-lime,  then  add  a  mixture  of  skim-milk  and  water,  and 
mix  to  the  consistency  of  cream ;  then  add  20  lbs.  of  alum, 
15  lbs.  of  potash  and  1  bu.  of  salt  to  every  100  gals,  of  the 
liquid.  If  white  paint  is  desired,  add  to  the  above  6  lbs.  of 
plaster  of  Paris. 

Fob  Damp  Walls.— 1.  ^Ib.  of  hard  soap  to  1  gal.  of 
water.  Lay  over  the  bricks  steadily  and  carefully  with  a 
^at  brush,  so  as  not  to  form  a  froth  or  lather  on  the  surface. 
After  24  hrs.  mix  3^1b.  of  alum  with  4  gals,  of  water ;  let  it 
stand  24  hrs.,  and  then  apply  it  in  the  same  manner  over  the 
coating  of  soap.    Apply  in  dry  weather. 

2.  13^  lbs.  resin,  1  lb.  tallow,  1  qt.  linseed  oil.  Melt  to- 
gether and  apply  hot,  tAvo  coats. 

Paixt  for  Shading  Greenhouse  Roofs.— Make  a  paint  of 
ordinary  consistency  of  white  lead  and  naphtha.  It  is  re- 
moved from  the  glass  by  the  use  of  a  scrubbing-brush.  Make 
ft  thin  or  it  is  hard  to  remove. 

Ordinary  lime  whitewash  is  good  for  temporary  use.  If 
salt  is  added,  it  adheres  better. 

Water-proofing  Paints— For  leather. -1.  %  lb.  of  shel- 
lac, broken  into  small  pieces  in  a  quart  bottle ;  cover  with 
methylated  spirit,  cork  it  tight,  put  it  on  a  shelf  in  a  warm 
place,  and  shake  it  well  several  times  a  day ;  then  add  a 
piece  of  camphor  as  large  as  a  hen's  Qgg ;  shake  again  and 
add  1  oz.  of  lamp-black.    Apply  with  a  small  paint-brush. 

2.  Put  into  an  earthen  jar  i^lb.  of  beeswax,  3^pt.  of 
neatsfoot  oil,  3  or  4  tablespoonfuls  of  lamp-black,  and  a 


76  The   Horticulturisf s   Rule- Book. 

Paint  and  Protective  Compoonds,  continued. 

piece  of  camphor  as  large  as  a  hen's  q^z-  Melt  over  a  slow 
fire.  Have  both  grease  and  leather  warm  and  apply  with  a 
brush. 

3.  1  pt.  of  linseed  oil,  3^1b.  mutton  suet,  6  ozs.  of  clean 
beeswax  and  4  ozs.  of  resin;  melt  and  mix  well.  Use  while 
warm  with  a  brush  on  new  boots  or  shoes. 

For  Cloth  for  Pits  and  Frames.— Old  pale  linseed  oil, 

3  pts. ;  sugar  of  lead  (acetate  of  lead),  1  oz. ;  white  resin, 

4  ozs.  Grind  the  acetate  with  a  little  of  the  oil,  then  add  the 
rest  and  the  resin.  Use  an  iron  kettle  over  a  gentle  fire. 
Apply  with  a  bi'ush,  hot. 

For  Paper. — Dissolve  l^lbs.  of  white  soap  in  1  qt.  of 
water;  in  another  qt.  of  water  dissolve  l^^ozs.  of  gum 
arable  and  5  ozs.  of  glue.  Mix  the  two  liquids,  warm  them 
and  soak  the  paper  in  it  and  pass  through  rollers,  or  simply 
hang  it  up  to  dry. 

To  Prevent  Metals  from  Rusting. — Melt  together  3 
parts  of  lard  and  1  part  of  powdered  resin.  A  very  thin 
coating  applied  with  a  brush  will  keep  stoves  and  grates 
from  rusting  during  summer,  even  in  damp  situations.  A 
little  black  lead  can  be  mixedcwith  the  lard.  Does  well  on 
nearly  all  metals. 

To  Prevent  Rusting  of  Nails,  Hinges,  Etc.— 1  pt.  of 
linseed  oil,  2  ozs.  black  lead ;  mix  together.  Heat  nails  red- 
hot  and  dip  them  in. 

Amount  of  Paint  Required  for  a  Given  Surface.— It  is 
impossible  to  give  a  rule  that  will  apply  in  all  cases,  as  the 
amount  varies  with  the  kind  and  thickness  of  the  paint,  the 
kind  of  wood  or  other  material  to  which  it  is  applied,  the  age 
of  the  surface,  etc.  The  following  is  an  approximate  rule : 
Divide  the  number  of  square  feet  of  surface  by  200.  The  re- 
sult will  be  the  number  of  gallons  of  liquid  paint  required 
to  give  two  coats ;  or  divide  by  18  and  the  result  Avill  be  the 
number  of  pounds  of  pure  ground  white-lead  required  to 
give  three  coats. 
4.  Glues.— 

Liquid  Glue. — 1.  Dissolve  2  lbs.  of  best  pale  glue  in  1  qt. 
of  water  in  a  covered  vessel,  placed  in  a  hot  water  bath; 
when  cold,  add  to  it  7  ozs.  of  commercial  nitric  acid.  When 
cold  put  in  bottles. 


Cements,  Mortars,  Paints  and  Glues.  77 

Glues  (Liquid  Glue),  contitmed. 

2.  Finest  pale  orange  shellac,  broken  small,  4  ozs. ; 
methylated  spirit,  3  oz. ;  put  in  a  warm  place  in  a  closely 
corked  bottle  until  dissolved.  Should  have  the  consistency 
of  molasses.  Or,  borax  1  oz.,  water,  %pt.,  shellac  as  be- 
fore; boil  in  a  closely  covered  kettle  until  dissolved;  then 
evaporate  until  nearly  as  thick  as  molasses. 

Flower  Gum.— Very  fine  white  shellac  mixed  with 
methylated  spirit  in  a  stone  jar ;  shake  well  for  }4.  ^d.  hour 
and  place  by  a  fire,  and  shake  it  frequently  the  first  day. 
Keep  in  a  cool  place.  Leave  the  camel 's-hair  brush  in  the 
gum.  Never  fill  the  brush  too  full  and  gum  the  petals 
close  to  the  tube. 

Gum  for  Labels  and  Specimens.— 1.  Two  parts  of  gum 
arable,  1  part  of  brown  sugar;  dissolve  in  water  to  the 
consistency  of  cream. 

2.  Five  parts  of  best  glue  soaked  in  18  to  20  parts  of  water 
for  a  day,  and  to  the  liquid  add  9  parts  of  sugar  candy  and 
3  parts  of  gum  arable. 

3.  Good  flour  and  glue,  to  which  add  linseed-oil,  varnish 
and  turpentine,  3^oz.  each  to  the  lb.  Good  when  labels  are 
liable  to  get  damp. 


^'•yi^^^m'^m^^ 


The  increased  love  of  home  and  the  garden,  in  the  older  states, 
is  a  matter  of  every-day  remark ;  and  it  is  not  a  little  curious  that 
just  in  proportion  to  the  intelligence  and  settled  character  of  its 
population,  is  the  amount  of  interest  manifested  in  horticulture. — 
A.  J.  Downing. 


CHAPTER    IX. 


Seed   Tables. 

I.     Quantity  of  Seed  required  to  Sow  an  Acre. 

Asparagus 4  or  5  lbs.,  or  1  oz.  for  50  ft.  of  drill. 

Beans,  Dwarf in  drills IK  bu. 

"       Pole "  10  to  12  qts. 

Beet "  5  to  6  lbs. 

Buckwheat "  1  bu. 

Cabbage in  beds  to  transplant  .  .   .    .  }4  ^^■ 

Carrot in  drills 3  to  4  lbs. 

Cauliflower 1  oz.  of  seed  for  1,000  plants  . 

Celery 1  oz.  for  2,000  plants    .... 

Corn in  hills 8  to  10  qts. 

Cucumber "         2  lbs. 

Cress,  Water in  drills 2  to  3  lbs. 

"      Upland "  2  to  3  lbs. 

Egg-plant 1  oz,  of  seed  for  1,000  plants  . 

Kale,  or  Sprouts 3  to  4  lbs. 

Lettuce 1  oz.  of  seed  for  1,000  plants  . 

Melon,  Musk in  hills 2  to  3  lbs. 

"      Water "         4  to  5  lbs. 

Mustard broadcast K^u. 

Onion  .  *. in  drills 5  to  6  lbs. 

"     Seed  for  Sets  .   .     "  30  lbs. 

"     Sets "  6tol2bu. 

Parsnip "  4  to  6  lbs. 

Peas "  lto2bu. 

potato  (cut-tubers) ' 7  bu. 

Pumpkin in  hills 4  to  5  lbs. 

(78) 


Seed    Tables.  yg 

Quantity  of  Seed  required  to  Sow  an  Acre,  continued, 

Radish in  driUs 8  to  10  lbs. 

Sage "  8  to  10  lbs. 

Salsify '• 8  to  10  lbs. 

Spinage "  10  to  13  lbs. 

Squash,  Bush in  hills 4  to  6  lbs. 

"        Running   ...      '•         3  to  4  lbs. 

Tomato to  transplant       /^  Ih. 

Turnip in  drills 1  to  2  lbs. 

"       broadcast 3  to  4  lbs. 

Grass  (mixed  lawn) 2  to  4  bu. 

3.     Weight  and  Size  of  Garden   Seeds. 

Adapted  from  Vilmorin's  Tables. 

JVeight  of  a  qt.  of  Number  of  seeds 

seeds  in  ozs.  in  i  grain. 

AngeUca 5.825  11.01 

Anise 11.65  12.96 

Asparagus  Beau  {Duliclws  sesqui- 

pedalis,  L.) 29.90  32.40  to  42.12 

Balm 21.35  139.60 

Basil 20.58  51.84 

Bean 24.26  to  33.01  4.86  to  5.18  in  100  g. 

Beet 9.71  3.24 

Borage 18.74  4.21 

Borecole 27.18  19.44 

Broccoli 27.18  24.30 

Cabbage 27.18  19.44 

Caper 17.86  10.37 

Caraway 16.34  23.68 

Cardoon 24.46  1.63 

Carrot  with  the  spines 9.33  45.36 

"       without  the  spines   .  .  .  13.98  61.56 

Catmint 30.29  77.76 

Cauliflower      27.18  24.30 

Celery 18.64  162.00 

Cher\al 14.76  29.16 

"        Sweet-scented 9.71  2.59 


8o  The  Horticultuyisf s   Rule- Book. 

Weigflit  and  Size  of  Garden  Seeds,  continued. 

Weight  of  a  qt.  of  Number  of  seeds 

seeds  in  ozs.  in  i  grain. 

Chervil,  Turnip-rooted 20.97  29.16 

Chicory 15.54  45.36 

Chick-pea 30.29  1.94  in  10  g. 

Coriander 12.43  5.83 

Corn-salad 10.87  64.80 

Cress,  American 20.97  61.56 

"      Common  Garden  ....  28.35                 •  29.16 

"      Meadow  (Cuckoo-flower) 22. 52  97.20 

"      Para 7.77  220.32 

"      Water 22.52  259.20 

Cucumber.  Common 19.42  2.14 

Globe 19.42  6.48 

Prickly -fruited 

Gherkin 21.36  8.42 

Snake  ( Cucumis  flexu- 

osus) 17.48  2.59 

Dandelion 10.49  77.76  to  97.20 

Dill 11.65  58.32 

Egg-plant 19.42  16.20 

Endive 13.20  38.88 

Fennel,  Common  or  Wild   .  .   .  17.48  20.09 

Sweet 9.13  8.10 

Gumbo,  see  Okra 

Good  King  Henry 24.27  27.86 

Gourds,  Fancy 17.48  1.29 

Hop 9.71  12.96 

Horehound 26.41  64.80 

Hyssop 22.33  55.08 

Kohlrabi    . 27.18  19.44 

Leek 21.36  25.92 

Lettuce 16.69  51.84 

Lovage 7.77  19.44 

Maize,  or  Indian  Corn      .   .    .    .24.85  2.59  to  3.24  in  10  g. 

Marjoram,  Sweet 21.35     *  259.20 

"          Winter 26.15  777.60 

Martynia 11.26  1.29 

Muskmelon 13.98  3.56 


Seed    Tables.  8i 

Weight  and  Size  of  Garden  Seeds,  continued. 

Weight  of  a  qt.  of  Number  of  seeds 

seeds  in  ozs.  in  i  grain. 

Mustard,  Black  or  Brown  .  .   .  26.15  45.36 

' '         Chinese  Cabbage- 

leaved 25.63  42.12 

"         White,  or  Salad  .   .   .  29.12  12.96 

Nasturtium,  Tall 13.20  4.54  to  5.18  in  10  g. 

Dwarf 23.30  9.7    in  10  g. 

Okra 24.08  9.7  to  11.66  in  10  g. 

Onion 19.42  16.20 

Orach 5.44  16.20 

Pea .   .   .  27.18  to  31.07  1.29  to  3.56  in  10  g. 

"   Gray  or  Field 26.41  to  31.07  3.24  to  5.18  in  10  g. 

Peanut 15.53  1.29  to  1.94  in  10  g. 

Pepper 17.48  9.72 

Pumpkin 9.71  1.94  in  10  g. 

Purslane 23.69  162.00 

Radish 27.18  7.77 

Rampion 31.07  1620.00 

Rhubarb 3.10to4.G6  3.24 

Rocket  Salad 29.12  35.64 

Rosemarj^ 15.54  58.32 

Rue 22.52  32.40 

Sage 21.36  16.20 

Salsify 8.93  6  48 

Savory.  Summer 19.42  97.20 

Winter 16.69  162.00 

Scorzonera 10.09  5.83 

Scurvy-^ass 23.30  97.20  to  116.64 

Sea-kale 8.16  9.72  to  11.66  in  10  g. 

Spinage.  Prickly-seeded  ....  14.56  5.83 

"        Round-seeded   ....  19.80  7.13 

"        New  Zealand 8.67  6.48  to  7.77  in  10  g. 

Squash,  Bush-scallop 16.69  6.48 

Strawberry 23.30  51.84  to  162.00 

Elite  {Blitum)  .  .   .31.07  324.00 

Tomato  (Physalis)   .  25.24  64.80 

Sweet  Cicely 9.71  2.59 

Tansy 11.65  453.60 

Thyme 26.41  388.80 


82  The   Horticultiirisf  s  Ride- Book. 

Weight  and  Size  of  Garden  Seeds,  continued. 

Weight  of  a  qt.  of  Number  of  seeds 

seeds  in  ozs.  in  i  grain. 

Tomato 11.65  19.44  to  25.92 

Turnip 26.02  29.16 

Valerian,  African 4.27  16.20 

Watermelon 17.86  3.24  to  3.88  in  10  g. 

Wax  Gourd 11.65  1.36 

Welsh  Onion,  Common 18.64  19.44 

Early  White.  .    .22.91  32.40 

Wormwood 25.24  745.20 

3.     Number  of  Tree^Seeds  in  a  Pound. 

FRUIT    TREES. 

About. 

Apple 12,000 

Cherry  Pits 1,000 

Peach 200 

Pear 15,000 

Plum 600 

Quince 15,000 

Mulberry 200,000 

FOREST    TREES. 

By  count. 

Butternut Juglans  cinerea 15 

Black  Walnut Juglans  nigra 25 

American  Horse-Chestnut  .    .  ^sculus  glabra 36 

Hickory  (Shell-Bark) Carya  alba 78 

American  Sweet  Chestnut  .   .  Castanea  vesca 90 

Silver-Leaved  Maple Acer  dascycarpum  ....  2,421 

Honey-Liocust Gleditschia  triacanthos  .  2,496 

Black  Cherry Prunus  serotina    .....  4,31 1 

Black  Ash Fraxinus  sambucifolia  .  .  5,629 

American  Basswood Tilia  Americana 6,387 

Norway  Maple Acer  platanoides 7,231 

Sugar  Maple Acer  saccharinum  ....  7,488 

Barberry Berberis  vulgaris  ....  8,183 

Red  Cedar Juniperus  Virginiana   .    .  8,321 

Rock  Elm Ulmus  racemosa 8,352 

American  White  Ash Fraxinus  Americana.  .   .  9,858 


Seed  Tables.  83 

Ifmnber  of  Tree-Seeds  in  a  Pound  (Forest  Trees),  continued. 

By  count. 

Osage  Orange Madura  aurantiaca  .  .  .  10,656 

Silver  Fir Abies  pectiuata 12,000 

Box  Elder Acer  Negundo 14,784 

Hardy  Catalpa Catalpa  speciosa 19,776 

A.ilantus Ailantus  glandulosa  .   .   .  20,161 

White  Pine Pinus  Strobus 20,540 

Scarlet  Maple Acer  rubrum 22,464 

Green  Ash Fraxinus  viridis 22,656 

Black  Locust Robinia  pseudacacia .   .   .  28,992 

Red  Elm Ulmus  fulva 54,359 

American  White  Elm Ulmus  Americana    ....  92,352 

American  Mountain  Ash  .   .    .  Pyrus  Americana  ....  108,327 

White  Birch Betula  alba 500,000 

4.     Longevity  of  Garden  Seeds. 

Adapted  from  Vilmorin's  tables. 

The  number  denotes  that  the  seeds  had  not  all  lost  their  ger- 
minating power  at  the  termination  of  the  number  of  years  re- 
corded. 

Average    Extreme 

Years.  Kears. 

Angelica 1  or  2  3 

Anise 3  5 

AsparsLgus-Boan  {Dolichos  sesquipedalis,  1j.)  .  .             3  8 

Balm 4  7 

Basil 8  10-f 

Bean 3  8 

Beet 6  10-f 

Borage 8  lO-j- 

Borecole 5  10 

Broccoli 5  10 

Cabbage 5  10 

Caraway 3  4 

Cardoon 7  9 

Carrot,  with  the  spines 4  or  5  10-j- 

"       without  the  spines 4  or  5  10-{- 

Catmint 6  10-|- 

Cauliflower 5  10 


84 


The  Ho7'ticidtii7'isV  s  Rule- Book. 


Longevity  of  Garden  Seeds,  continued. 

Average 
Years. 

Celery 8 

Chervil 2  or  3 

"       Sweet-scented 1 

"       Turnip-rooted 1 

Chicory 8 

Chick-pea 3 

Coriander 6 

Corn-salad,  Common 5 

Cress,  American 3 

"      Common  Garden 5 

"      Meadow  (Cuckoo-flower) 4 

"      Para 5 

"      Water 5 

Cucumber,  Common 10 

Globe 6 

"          Prickly-fruited  Gherkin 6 

*'  Snake  (Cucumis  fleanwsus) 7  or  8 

Dandelion 2 

Dill 3 

Egg-plant 6 

Endive 10 

Fennel,  Common  or  Wild 4 

"        Sweet 4 

Gumbo,  see  Okra. 

Good  King  Henry 3 

Gourds,  Fancy 6 

Hop 2 

Horehound 3 

Hyssop 3 

Kohl-rabi 5 

Leek 3 

Lettuce,  Common 5 

Lovage    3 

Maize,  or  Indian  Corn 2 

Marjoram,  Sweet  ....       3 

"          Winter 5 

Martynia 1  or  2 

Muskmelon 5 


Extreme 
Vgars. 

10 
6 
1. 
1 

10-h 
8 
8 

10 
5 
9 

(?) 
7+ 
9 

10+ 

(?) 
7+ 

10+ 
5 
5 

10 

10+ 
7 


5 

10+ 

4 

6 

5 
10 

9 

9 

4 

4 

7 

7 

(?) 
10+ 


Seed   Tables, 


85 


Longevity  of  Garden  Seeds,  continued. 

AVKRAGE 

years. 

Mustard,  Black  or  Brown 4 

'•          Chinese  Cabbage-leaved 4 

White  or  Salad 4 

Nasturtium,  Tall 5 

''           Dwarf 5 

Okra 5 

Onion 2 

Orach 6 

Parsnip  .   .   .    •   • 2 

Parsley 3 

Pea,  Garden 3 

"    Gray  or  Field 3 

Pepper 4 

Pumpkin 4  or  5 

Purslane 7 

Radish 5 

Rampion 5 

Rhubarb 3 

Rocket  Salad 4 

Rosemary 4 

Rue 2 

Sage 3 

Salsify 2 

Savory,  Summer 3 

Winter 3 

Scorzonera 2 

Scurvy-grass 4 

Sea-Kale 1 

Spinage,  Prickly-seeded 5 

"        Round-seeded 5 

New  Zealand 5 

Squash,  Bush-scallop 6 

Strawberry 3 

"           Tomato  (Physalis) 8 

Sweet  Cicely 1 

Tansy 2 

Thyme 3 

Tomato 4 


Extreme 
years. 

9 

8 

10 
5 
8 

10+ 
7 
7 
4 


7 

9 

10 

10+ 
10+ 

8 

9 

(?) 

5 

7 

8 

7 

6 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

8 
10+ 

6 
10+ 

1 

4 

7 


86 


The   Horticultiirisf  s   Rule- Book. 


Longevity  of  Garden  Seeds,  continued. 


Turnip 

Valerian,  African 
Watermelon  .  .  . 
Wax  Gourd  .  .   . 


Average 

years. 

5 

4 

6 

10 


Welsh  Onion,  Common 2  or  3 

Early  White 3 

Wormwood -4 


Extreme 
y^ars. 
10-f 
7 
10 

10+ 
7 


5.     Average  Time  required  for  Garden  Seeds  to  Germinate. 


Days. 

Bean .    6-10 

Beet 7-10 

Cabbage 6-10 

Carrot 12-18 

Cauliflower 6-10 

Celery 10-20 

Corn 5-8 

Cucumber 6-10 

Endive 5-10 


Days. 

Lettuce 6-8 

Onion 7-10 

Pea 6-10 

Parsnip 10-20 

Pepper 9-13 

Radish 3-6 

Salsify 7-12 

Tomato 6-12 

Turnip 4-8 


6.     Proper  Kinds   and  Quantities  of    Seeds  for  a    IModel    En- 
glish Kitchen  Garden  of  i  1-4  Acres  (Loudon). 

Peas,  30  qts. ;  white  cabbage  of  different  kinds,  6  ozs. ;  Savoy 
cabbage,  IX  ozs. ;  Brussels  sprouts,  2  ozs.,  cauliflower,  3  ozs.  ; 
broccoli,  7  ozs. ;  borecole,  2  ozs. ;  red  cabbage,  1  oz. ;  kohl-rabi, 
1  oz. ;  white  turnip,  8  ozs. ;  yellow  turnip,  2  ozs. ;  early  pota- 
toes, 1  bu. ;  carrots,  7  ozs. ;  onions,  8  ozs. ;  broad  beans,  6  qts. ; 
narrow  beans,  3  qts. ;  kidney  beans,  3  qts. ;  scarlet  runner 
beans,  2  qts. ;  celery,  3  ozs. ;  Flanders  spinach,  1  qt. ;  summer 
spinach,  2  qts. ;  Jerusalem  artichoke,  1  pk.  ;  red  beet,  4  ozs. ; 
parsnips,  4  ozs. ;  leeks,  2  ozs. ;  garlic,  J^lb. ;  shallots,  3  lbs. ; 
salsify,  3^oz. ;  scorzonera,  3^oz. ;  cos  lettuce,  5  ozs. ;  cabbage 
lettuce,  3  ozs. ;  endive,  2  ozs. ;  radish,  3  pts. ;  cress,  1  pt. ;  mus- 
tard, 1  qt. ;  parsley,  2  ozs. 


CHAPTER    X. 


Planting-Tables. 

I.     Dates  for  Sowing  or  Setting  Kitchen-Garden  Vegetables  in 
Different  Latitudes. 

Lansing,  Michigan. 

Average  of  4  and  5  years. 

Bean,  Bush May  16. 

"      Pole May  30. 

Beet April  20. 

Broccoli May  10. 

Brussels  Sprouts May  10. 

•  Cabbage,  early,  under  glass March  15. 

Cabbage,  late May  20. 

Carrot May  7. 

Cauliflower,  under  glass March  15. 

Celery,  under  glass March  18. 

"       in  open  ground May  20. 

Corn May  19. 

Cucumber •   •  •  .      .   .  May  23. 

Egg-Plant,  under  glass March  15. 

Kale May  9. 

Kohlrabi May  9. 

Lettuce Maj^  5. 

Melon May  30. 

Okra May  15. 

Onion      April  17. 

Parsnips May  7. 

Pepper,  under  glass March  16. 

Peas '. April  15. 

Potato May  3. 

(87) 


88     ~  The  HorticulturisV s  Rule- Book. 

Dates  for  Sowing  or  Setting  Vegetables,  continued. 

Pumpkin May  31. 

Radish April  26. 

Salsify May  7. 

Spinage April  10. 

Squash May  28. 

Tomato,  under  glass March  13. 

Turnip April  15. 

Boston.     (Rawson.) 

Asparagus About  the  end  of  April. 

Bean,  Bush About  the  first  Aveek  in  May. 

Bean,  Pole From  about  the  middle  of  May  to  the  1st 

or  June. 

Bean,  Lima About  the  1st  of  June. 

Beet About  the  middle  of  April. 

Borecole,  or  Kale  .   .    .  About  the  middle  of  April ;  plant  out  in 

June. 
Brussels  Sprouts    ...  In  March  or  April  in  hotbed. 
Cabbage Transplant  the  last  week  in  April  or  the 

1st  in  May. 

Carrots Last  of  May  or  1st  of  June. 

Cauliflower From  the  1st  of  May  until  the  1st  of 

July. 

Celery  •   •   • The  1st  week  in  April  to  the  3nd  in  July. 

Corn,  Sweet About  the  1st  of  May. 

Cucumber For  1st  crop,  about  the  middle  of  March. 

Egg-Plant About  March  15th  in  hotbed. 

Endive .  June  or  July. 

Kohh'abi May  or  June. 

Okra About  the  10th  of  May. 

Peas During  the  last  of  April  up  to  the  1st  of 

May. 

Pepper Put  out  of  doors  about  the  1st  of  April. 

Radish From  the  1st  of  April  to  the  middle  of 

June. 

Spinage About  the  1st  of  September. 

Tomato About  the  25th  of  May  set  plants  out- 
doors. 
Turnips,  for  fall  use  .    .  Any  time  from  July  1st  to  August  20th. 
Watermelon About  the  middle  of  May. 


Planting-  Tables.  89 

Dates  for  Sowing  or  Setting:  Vegetables,  continued. 
New  Yokk.     (Henderson.) 

Plants  to  sow  from  the  middle  of  March  to  the  end  of  April.     Thermom- 
eter in  the  shade  averaging  45  degrees. 
Beet.  Cauliflower.  Parsley. 

Carrot.  Endive.  Peas. 

Cress.  Kale.  Radish. 

Celery.  Lettuce.  Spin  age. 

Cabbage.  Onions.  Turnip. 

Parsnip. 

From  the    middle  of  May  to  the  middle  of  Ju^e.      Thermometer  in   the 
shade  averaging  60  degrees. 

Bean,  Bush.  Bean,  Runner.  Nasturtium. 

Bean,  Cranberry.  Corn,  Sweet.  Okra. 

Bean,  Lima.  Cucumber,  Pumpkin. 

Bean,  Pole.  Melon,  Musk.  Squash. 

Bean,  Scarlet.  Melon,  Water.  Tomato. 

Georgia.     (Oemler.) 

Asparagus   .   .   .  Prom  December  1st  to  the  middle  of  March. 

Bean,  Bush  .  .    .  From  the  1st  to  the  middle  of  March. 

Beet Through  November  and  December. 

Cabbage  ....  Prom  the  1st  of  October  to  the  15th.  Trans- 
plant about  November  1st  and  later. 

Cauliflower  .  .   .  From  May  to  September. 

Cucumber.  .   .   .  About  March  1st  to  the  15th. 

Egg-Plant.  ...  To  prick  out,  about  the  middle  of  January, 
otherwise  ten  or  fifteen  days  later. 

Lettuce About  the  middle  of  September. 

Onion About  January  1st. 

Pea About  December  1st. 

Potato The  1st  of  February. 

Radish From  Christmas  to  the  last  of  February. 

Spinage From  September  10th  until  October  15th. 

Squash About  the  last  of  February  up  to  the  middle  of 

March. 

Sweet-Potato  .  .  In  coldtrames,  about  the  1st  of  January. 

Tomato About  January  1st. 

Watermelon    .   .  About  the  15th  of  March. 


go  The  HorticidturisV s   Rule- Book. 

2.     Tender  and   Hardy  Vegetables. 

Vegetables    injured  by  a  slight  frost,  and  which  should  therefore  be 
planted  only  after  the  weather  has  settled 
All  Beans.  Egg-Plant.  Pumpkin. 

Corn.  All  Melons.  Squash. 

Cucumber.  Okra.  Sweet-Potato. 

Pepper.  Tomato. 

Vegetables  which,  7uhen  properly  handled,  will  endure  a  frost. 


Asparagus. 

Corn  Salad. 

Parsley. 

Beet. 

Cress. 

Parsnip. 

Borecole. 

Endive. 

Pea. 

Broccoli. 

Horseradish. 

Radish. 

Brussels  Sprouts. 

Kale. 

Rhubarb. 

Cabbage. 

Kohlrabi. 

Salsify. 

Carrot. 

Leek. 

Sea-Kale. 

Cauliflower. 

Lettuce. 

Spinage. 

Celery. 

All  Onions. 

Turnip. 

3.     Usual   Distances  Apart  for  Planting  Fruits. 

Apples 30  to  40  feet  each  way 

"      DAvarf 

Pears 20   " 

"      Dwarf      10   " 

Plums 16   " 

Peaches 16  " 

Cherries 16   " 

Apricots 16   " 

Nectarines 16   " 

Quinces 8   " 

Grapes 8  " 

Currants .  4  X 

Gooseberries 4  X 

Raspberries,  Black  . 3  X 

Red •.  .   .   .  3  X 

Blackberries 4  x 

Cranberries lor  3  ft.  apart  each  way. 

Strawberries 1  X    3  or  4  ieet. 

Oranges  and  Lemons 35  to  30  feet  each  way. 

Piers 30   "  35    " 


10     " 

80     " 

13     " 

SO     " 

20     " 

25    " 

20    " 

20    " 

13     " 

13    " 

5  feet. 

5     " 

6    " 

5     " 

7  to  6 

X  8  fee 

jt. 

Pla  71  ting-  Ta  b/cs .  g  i 

Usual  Distances  Apart  for  Planting  Fruits,  continued. 

Mulberries 25  to  30  feet  each  way. 

Japanese  Persimmons 20   "  25     "        "         " 

Loquats 15   "  25    "        "         " 

Pecans 35   "  40    ''        "         " 

Distances  Recommended  for  Orange  Trees  in  Cahfomia. 

Dwarfs,  as  Tangerines 10  to  12  feet. 

Half -Dwarfs,  as  Washington  Navel .  .  24   "  30    " 
Mediterranean  Sweet,  Maltese  Blood, 

Valencia :  .  .  .  24   "  30    '• 

St.  Michael 18  "  24    " 

Seedlings 30   "  40     " 

4.     Usual  Distances  Apart  for  Planting  Vegetables. 

Artichoke    ....      Rows  3  or  4  ft.  apart,  2  to  3  ft.  apart  in  the 

row. 
Asparagus Rows  3  to  4  ft.  apart,  1  to  2  ft.  apart  in  the 

row. 
Beans,  Bush  .   .    .    .  1  ft.  apart  in  rows  2  to  3  ft.  apart. 

"      Pole 3  to  4  ft.  each  way. 

Beet,  early  .    .      .   .  In  drills  12  to  18  in.  apart. 

' '     late In  drills  2  to  3  ft.  apart. 

Broccoli IX  X  21^  ft.  to  2  X  3  ft. 

Cabbage,  early  .  .   .  16  X  28  in.  to  18  X  30  in. 
late.  .  .   .  2  X  3ft.  to  2^  X  3^  ft. 

Carrot In  drills  1  to  2  ft.  apart. 

Cauliflower 2  X  2  ft.  to  2  X  3  ft. 

Celery Rows  3  to  4  ft.  apart,  6  to  9  in.  in  the  row. 

Corn-Salad In  drills  12  to  18  in.  apart. 

Corn,  Sweet  ....  Rows  3  to  3X  ft.  apart,  9  in.  to  2  ft.  in  the 

row. 

Cress In  drills  10  to  12  in.  apart. 

Cucumber 4  to  5  ft.  each  way. 

Egg-Plant 3  X  3  ft. 

Endive 1  X  1  ft.  to  1  X  1>^  ft. 

Horse-radish   ...   .  1  X  2  or  3  ft. 

Kohlrabi 10  X  18  in.  to  1  X  2  ft. 

Leek 6  in.  X  1  or  1^  ft. 

Lettuce 1  X  1>^  or  2  ft. 


92 


The  Hortictilturisf s   Rule-Book. 


Usual  Distances  Apart  for  Planting:  Vegetables,  continued. 
Melons,  Musk  .  .   .  5  to  6  ft.  each  way. 

"        Water  .  .      7  to  8  ft.  each  way. 

Mushroom G  to  8  in.  each  way. 

Okra 11^  X  3  or  3  ft. 

Onion In  drills  from  14  to  20  in.  apart. 

Parsley In  drills  1  or  2  ft.  apart. 

Parsnip In  drills,  18  in.  to  3  ft.  auart. 

Peas In  drills;  early  kinds,usually  in  double  rows, 

6  to  9  in.  apart ;  late  kinds,  in  single  rows, 
2  to  3  ft.  apart. 

Pepper 15  to  18  in.  X  2  to  2^  ft. 

Potato 10  to  18  in.  X  2K  to  3  ft. 

Pumpkin 8  to  10  ft.  each  way. 

Radish In  drills,  10  to  18  in.  apart. 

Rhubarb 2  to  4  ft.  X  4  ft. 

Salsify In  driUs,  1^  to  2  ft.  apart. 

Sea-Kale 2  X  2  to  3  ft. 

Spinage In  drills,  12  to  IS  in.  apart. 

Squash,  Bush  ...  3  to  4  ft.  X  4  ft.  • 

"        Late  .  .  .   .  6  to  8  ft.  each  way. 
Sweet-Potato.  .  .   .  2  ft.  X  3  to  4  ft. 

Tomato 4  ft.  X  4  to  5  ft. 

Turnip In  driUs,^lK  to  2^  ft.  apart. 


Number  of  Plants  Required  to  Set  an  Acre  of  Ground  at 
Given   Distances. 

Plants. 
1,568,160 
1,045,440 
784,080 
627,264 
522,720 
448,045 
392,040 
348,480 
318,632 
285,120 
261,360 
696,960 


1     in.  X 

lin. 

1      "    X 

2   " 

1      "    X 

3   " 

1      "    X 

4   '' 

1      "    X 

5   " 

1      "    X 

6   " 

1      "    X 

7   " 

1      "   X 

8   " 

1      "   X 

9  " 

1      "   X  10  " 

1      "   X  11  " 

1      "   X 

12   " 

Plants. 

6,272,640 

2 

in.  X    2 

3.136.320 

0 

"   X    3 

2,090,880 

2 

"   X    4 

1,568,160 

2 

"   X    5 

1.254.528 

2 

"   X    6 

1,045,440 

2 

"    X    7 

896,091 

2 

"    X    8 

784.080 

2 

"   X    9 

696,960 

2 

"  xio 

627,269 

2 

"  xii 

570,240 

2 

"   X12 

522,720 

3 

"    X    3 

PI  a  71  ting  -  Ta  bles . 


93 


Number  of  Plants  to  an  Acre  at  Given  Distances 


3 

in.  X    4  in 

3 

'•    X    5   •• 

3 

;'  X    6  - 

3 

''    X    7   '• 

3 

'•    X    8   •• 

3 

'•   X    9   - 

3 

"   X  10  " 

3 

-  xii  - 

3 

-    X  13   •• 

4 

'•    X    4   - 

4 

-    X    5   - 

4 

-    X    6   •• 

4 

-    X    7   - 

4 

••   X    8  - 

4 

-    X    9   - 

4 

"  xio  '• 

4 

'•  xii  •• 

4 

••    X12   - 

5 

"    X    5   " 

5 

"    X    6   " 

5 

"    X    7   " 

5 

"    X    8   " 

5 

"    X    9   '' 

5 

"    XIO   " 

5 

"  xii  " 

5 

'•    X  12  " 

6 

"    X    6   " 

6 

"   X    7   " 

6 

-    X    8   " 

6 

"   X    9   " 

6 

"   X  10   " 

6 

"  xii  " 

6 

"   X13  " 

7 

"   X    7   " 

7 

"    X    8   " 

7 

"   X    9   " 

7 

"    X  10   " 

7 

"  xii  " 

523,720 

7  in 

418,175 

8    '' 

348,480 

8    " 

298,697 

8    " 

261,360 

8    " 

282,320 

8    " 

209,088 

9    " 

190,080 

9    " 

174,240 

9    " 

392.040 

9    " 

313,632 

10    " 

261,360 

10    " 

224,032 

10    " 

196,030 

10    " 

174,340 

10    " 

156,816 

10    " 

143,560 

10    " 

130,680 

10    " 

250,905 

10    •• 

209,088 

10    " 

179,218 

10    " 

156,816 

10    " 

139,393 

12    " 

135,452 

12    " 

114,048 

12    " 

104,544 

12    " 

174,240 

12    " 

149,348 

or  1ft 

130,680 

12  in. 

116,160 

12    " 

104,544 

12    " 

95,040 

12    " 

87,120 

12    - 

128,013 

12    •• 

112,011 

15    '' 

99,562 

15    '• 

89,609 

15    •• 

81,462 

15    - 

stances, 

continued. 

Plants. 

X  12  in 

.    .    .    . 

.        74,674 

X    8   ' 

.        98,010 

X    9   ' 

.       87,120 

X  10   ' 

.    .    . 

.       78,408 

X  11   ' 

.       71,380 

X12  ' 

.       65,340 

X    9   ' 

.    .    . 

.       77,440 

XIO   ' 

.       69,696 

X  11   ' 

.       63,360 

X12  ' 

.       58,080 

XIO   ' 

62,726 

X12   ' 

.    .    . 

52,273 

X15   ' 

41,817 

X  18   " 

34,848 

X20   " 

31,363 

X24   ' 

or  3  ft. 

.      36,133 

X30   " 

.    .    . 

30,908 

X36  " 

or  3  ft. 

.       17,434 

X42   •• 

14,935 

X48   " 

or  4  ft. 

13,068 

X54   " 

.    .   . 

11,616 

X60   " 

or  5  ft. 

.       10,454 

X12   " 

43,560 

X15   " 

34,848 

X18  " 

39,040 

X20   " 

36,136 

[X34" 

or  3  ft. 

31,780 

X30   " 

.    .   .   . 

17,434 

X36   " 

or  3  ft. 

14,530 

X  -^3   " 

- .   .    .   . 

13,446 

X48   " 

or  4  ft. 

10,890 

X  54   - 

.... 

9,680 

X  60   " 

or  5  ft. . 

8,713 

X  15   " 

37,878 

X  18   " 

23,232 

X30   '' 

20,908 

X34   - 

or  3  ft. . 

17,434 

94 


The   Horticulturist s  Rule-Book. 


Ifnmber  of  Plants  to  an  Acre  at  Given  Distances,  continued. 


15  in. 

15  "• 

1.-)  '• 

15  '' 

15  '• 

15  " 

18  '> 

18  " 

18  " 

18  " 

18  " 

18  " 

18  " 

18  " 

18  " 

20  " 

20  " 

20  " 

20  " 

20  " 

20  " 

20  " 

20  " 
ft. 


X30 
X36 
X42 


Plants, 
in 13,939 


or  3  ft. 


or  4  ft. 


"  or  5  ft. 


or  2  ft. 


or  3  ft. 


X54 

X60 

X20 

X24 

X30 

X36 

X42 

X48 

X54 

X60 

X 

X 

X 

X 

X 

X 

X 

X 

X 

X 

X 

X 

X 

X 

X 


or  4  ft. 


or  5  ft. 


or  2  ft 


or  3  ft. 


11,616 

9,953 

8,712 

7,744 

6,969 

19,360 

17,424 

14,520 

11,616 

9,680 

8,297 

7,260 

6,453 

5,808 

15,681 

13,168 

10,454 

8,712 

7,467 

6,534 

" 5,308 

"  or  5  ft.  .  .     5,227 

ft 43,560 

"    21,780 

....   14,520 

" 10,890 

" 8,712 

'• 7,260 

" 6,223 

" 5,445 

" 4,840 

" 4,356 

" 3,960 

.    .     3,630 

" 10,890 

" 7,260 

" 5,445 


or  4  ft. 


2  ft. 


X 
X 
X 
X 
X 
X 
X 
X 
X 
X 
X 
X 
X  7 
X  8 
X  9 
X  10 
Xll 
X12 
X  4 
X  5 
X  6 
X  7 
X  8 
X    9 

xio 

Xll 


ft. 


Plants. 
4,356 
3,630 
3,111 
2,722 
2,420 
2,178 
1,980 
1,815 
4,840 
3,680 
2,904 
2,420 
2,074 
1,815 
1,613 
1,452 
1,320 
1,210 
2,722 
2,178 
1,815 
1,556 
1,361 
1,210 
1,089 
990 
907 
1,742 
1,452 
1,244 
1,089 
968 
871 
792 
726 
1,210 
1,037 
907 


Plantiyig-  Tables .  95 

Number  of  Plants  to  an  Acre  at  Given  Distances,  continued. 

Plants.  Plants. 

6  ft.  X  9  ft 806  12  ft.  X  18  ft 201 

'  X  10  " 736  12  "  X  20  " 181 

^  X  11  " 660  12  "  X  2-t  " 151 

'  X  12  " 605  12  >•  X  30  " 121 

'  X  7  " 888  12  "  X  36  " 100 

'  X  8  " 777  12  '•  X  42  " 86 

'  X  9  " 691  12  "  X  48  " 75 

'  X  10  " 622  12  "  X  54  " 67 

'  X  11  " 565  12  "  X  60  " 60 

'  X  12  " 518  15  "  X  15  " 193 

8  "  X  8  " 680  15  "  X  18  " 161 

8  "  X  9  " 605  15  "  X  20  " 145 

8  "  X  10  " 544  15  "  X  24  " 121 

8  "  X  11  " 495  15  "  X  30  "  .  .  .  .  .  96 

8  "  X  12  " 453  15  ''  X  36  " 80 

9  "  X  9  •' 537  15  "  X  42  " 69 

9  "  X  10  " 484  15  "  X  48  " 60 

9  "  X  11  " 440  15  "  X  54:  " 53 

9  "  X  12  " 403  15  "  X  60  " 48 

9  "  X  14  " 345  18  "  X  18  "  .  .   •  -  134 

9  "  X  15  " 322  18  "  X  20  " 121 

9  "  X  18  " 268  18  "  X  24  " 100 

9  "  X  20  " 242  18  "  X  30  " 80 

10  "  X  10  " 435  18  "  X  36  " 67 

10  "  X  12  " 363  18  "  X  42  " 57 

10  "  X  15  " 290  18  "  X  48  " 50 

10  "  X  18  " 242  18  "  X  54  ".....  .  44 

10  "  X  20  " 217  18  "  X  60  " 40 

10  "  X  24  " 181  20  "  X  20  " 108 

10  "  X  30  " 145  20  "  X  24  '• 90 

10  "  X  36  "...  .  121  20  "  X  30  •' 72 

10  "  X  42  '  103  20  "  X  36  " 60 

10  "  X  45  " 96  20  "  X  42  " 51 

10  "  X  48  " 90  20  "  X  48  "...  .  45 

10  "  X  54  " 80  20  "  X  54  " 40 

10  "  X  60  " 72  20  "  X  60  " 36 

12  "  X  12  " 302  24  "  X  24  " 75 

12  "  X  15  " 242  24  "  X  30  " 60 


96 


The  Horticulturisf  s  Rule-Book. 


Ifamber  of  Plants  to  an  Acre  at  Given  Distances,  continued. 


Plants. 
27 
25 
22 
21 
20 
18 
24 
21 
19 
17 
18 
16 
15 
17 
16 
14 
14 
13 
12 
8 


5 

4 

To  find  the  number  of  plants  required  to  set  an  acre,  multiply 
together  the  two  distances,  in  feet,  at  which  the  trees  stand 
apart,  and  divide  43,560  bj^  the  product;  the  quotient  \Adll  be  the 
number  of  plants  required. 

Quincunx  Planting. — To  find  the  number  of  plants  required 
to  set  an  acre  by  the  quincunx  method,  ascertain  from  the  above 
tables  the  number  required  at  the  is^ven  rectangular  distances, 
and  then  increase  the  number  by  one-half. 


24 

ft.  X  36  ft 

24 

"  X  42  " 

•■4 

u  ^4g  u 

24 

•'  X54  " 

24 

"  X  60  " 

30 

"  X30  " 

30 

"  X36  " 

oO 

"  X42  " 

30 

"  X  48  " 

30 

"  X54  " 

30 

"  X  60  " 

36 

"  X  36  " 

36 

"  X42  " 

36 

u  >^48  " 

36 

"  X  54  " 

36 

"  X  60  " 

38 

"  X38  " 

38 

"  X40  " 

38 

"  X42  " 

38 

"  X  48  " 

38 

"  X50  " 

38 

"  X  54  " 

38 

"  X60  '• 

50 

40 

ft.  X  40  ft. 

43 

40 

"  X  42  " 

37 

40 

"  X48  " 

33 

40 

"  X50  " 

30 

40 

"  X54  " 

48 

40 

"  X60  " 

40 

42 

"  X42  " 

34 

42 

"  X48  " 

30 

42 

u  >^54  u 

26 

42 

"  X  60  " 

24 

48 

u  y  48  u 

33 

48 

"  X54  " 

28 

48 

"  X  60  " 

25 

50 

"  X  50  " 

22 

50 

"  X  54  " 

20 

50 

"  X  60  " 

30 

54 

"  X  54  " 

28 

54 

"  X60  " 

27 

60 

"  X60  " 

23 

70 

"  X  70  " 

22 

80 

"  X  80  " 

21 

90 

"  X  90  " 

19 

100 

"  XlOO" 

CHAPTER  XL 


Maturities,   Yields  and   Multiplication. 

I.     Time    Required    for    Maturity   of    Different    Garden    Crops, 
Reckoned  from  the  Sowing  of  the  Seeds. 

Beans,  String 45-  65  days  from  seed. 

"       SheU .....    65-  70  " 

Beets,  Turnip 65  " 

"      Long  Blood 150 

Cabbage,  Early 105  " 

"         Late .150  " 

Cauliflower 110  " 

Corn 75  " 

Egg-Plant 150-160  " 

Lettuce 65  " 

Melon,  Water 120-120  " 

"      Musk 120-140  " 

Onion 135-150  " 

Pepper 140-150  " 

Radish 30-45  " 

Squash,  Summer 60-  65  " 

"        Winter 125 

Tomatoes 150  '• 

Turnips 60-70  " 

2.    Time  Required,  from  Setting,  for  Fruit-Plants  to  Bear. 

Apple — 3  years.     Good  crop  in  about  10  years. 
Blackberry— 1  year.    Good  crops  in  2  and  3  years. 
Citrus  fruits  (oranges,  lemons,  etc.)— 2  to  3  years.     Gk)od 
crop  in  2  or  3  j^ears  later. 

Cranberry— 3  years  gives  a  fair  crop. 
Currant — 1  year.     Good  crops  in  2  and  3  years. 

(97) 


98  The    Horticulturist's   Rule- Book. 

Time  Required,  from  Setting,  for  Fruit-Plants  to  Bear,  continued. 
Gooseberrj^ — 1  year.     Good  crops  in  3  and  3  yeai's. 
Grape — Fair  crop  in  4  years. 
Peach — 2  years.    Good  crop  in  4  years. 
Pear— 3  or  4  years.    Fair  crop  in  6  to  12  years. 
Persimmon,  or  Kaki— 1  to  3  j^ears. 
Quince — 2  years.    Good  crop  in  4  years. 
Raspberry — 1  year.    Good  crop  in  2  and  3  years. 
Plum — 3  years.     Good  crop  in  5  or  6  years. 
Strawberry— 1  year.     Heaviest  crop  usually  in  2  years. 

3.     Average  Profitable  Longevity  of   Fruit-Plants    under   High 
Culture. 


Apple 25-40  years. 

Blackberry  ....    8-12      " 

Currant 20      " 

Gooseberry 20      " 

Orange  and  Lemon,  50  or  more. 
Peach  .......  8-12  years. 


Pear 50-T5  years. 

Persimmon,  or  Kaki,  as  long 
as  an  apple  tree. 

Plum 20-25  years. 

Raspberry  ....    8-12      " 
Strawberry 3      " 


4.     Average  Yields  Per  Acre  of  Various  Crops. 

The  yields  of  those  crops  in  which  the  salable  products  are 
equal  in  number  to  the  number  of  plants  per  acre,  and  in  which 
the  product  is  sold  by  the  piece,  are  to  be  calculated  from  the 
planting-tables  in  Chapter  X. — such  as  cabbage,  celery,  and  the 
like. 

Apples — A  tree  20  to  30  years  old  may  be  expected  to  yield 
from  25  to  40  bus.  every  alternate  year. 

Artichoke— 200  to  300  bus. 

Beans,  Green  or  Snai? — 75  to  120  bus. 
*"      Lima — 75  to  100  bus.  of  dry  beans. 

Beet-400  to  700  bus. 

Carrots— 400  to  700  bus. 

Corn — 50  to  75  bus.,  shelled. 

Cranberry — 100  to  300  bus.    900  bus.  have  been  reported. 

Cucumber — About  150,000  fruits  per  acre. 

Currant — 100  bus. 

Egg-Plant — 1  or  2  large  fruits  to  the  plant  for  the  large  sorts 
like  New  York  Purple,  and  from  3  to  8  fruits  for  the  smaller 
varieties. 


Maturities,    Yields   and  Multiplication.         99 

Average  Yields  Per  Acre  of  Virious  Crops,  continued. 

Gooseberry— 100  bus. 

Grape — 3  to  5  tons.  Good  raisin  vineyards  in  California,  15 
years  old,  will  produce  from  10  to  12  tons. 

Horse-radish — 3  to  5  tons. 

Kohlrabi— 500  to  1000  bus. 

Onion,  from  seed— 300  to  800  bus.  600  bus.  is  a  large  average 
yield. 

Parsnips— 500  to  800  bus. 

Pea,  green,  in  pod — 100  to  150  bus. 

Peach— In  full  bearing,  a  peach  tree  should  produce  from 
5  to  10  bus. 

Pear — A  tree  20  to  25  years  old  should  give  from  25  to  45  bus. 

Pepper— 30,000  to  50,000  fruits. 

Plum — 5  to  8  bus.  may  be  considered  an  average  crop  for  an 
average  tree. 

Potato— 100  to  300  bus. 

Quince— 200  to  400  bus. 

Raspberry  and  Blackberry— 50  to  100  bus. 

Salsify— 200  to  300  bus. 

Spinage— 200  barrels. 

Strawben\y— 75  to  250  or  even  300  bus. 

Tomato— 8  to  16  tons. 

Turnip— 600  to  1000  bus. 


lOO 


The   HorticiUtiirisf  s   Ride- Book. 


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Maturities,    Yields  ajid  Multiplication,       loi 

6.     Ways  of  Grafting  and   Budding.     (Baltet.) 
Grafting  with  Undetached  Scions.     (Inarching.) 

1. — Method  by  veneering. 
"         ''  inlaying. 
English  method. 
2. — Inarching  with  an  eye. 

"a  branch. 

Grafting  with  Detached  Scions. 

1. — Side-grafting  under  the  bark. 

"  "        with  a  simple  branch. 

*'  "        with  a  heeled  branch. 

"  "        in  the  alburnum. 

"  "        with  a  straight  cleft. 

"  "        with  an  oblique  cleft. 

2. — Crown-gi'afting. 
Ordinary  method. 
Improved  Method. 
3. — Grafting  de  precision. 

Veneering,  common  method. 
"  in  crown-grafting. 

' '  with  strips  of  bark. 

Crown-grafting  by  inlaying. 
Side-grafting  by  inlaying. 
4.— Cleft-grafting,  common  single. 
"  "  "        double. 

"  "         oblique. 

"  "         terminal. 

"  "  "         woody. 

"  "  "        herbaceous. 

5. — Whip-grafting,  simple. 
"  "  complex. 

Saddle-grafting. 
6. — Mixed  grafting. 

Grafting  with  cuttings : 
When  the  scion  is  a  cutting. 
When  the  stock  is  a  cutting. 
When  both  are  cuttings. 
Root-grafting  of  a  plant  on  its  own  root. 


I02  The  HorticulturisV s  Rule-Book. 


Ways  of  Grafting:  and  Budding:,  continued. 

Root-grafting  of  a  plant  on  the  roots  of  another  plant. 
Grafting  with  fruit-buds. 


Bud-Grafting.     (Budding.) 

1.— Grafting  with  shield-buds. 

Bud-grafting  under  the  bark,  or  by  inoculation. 
"  "         ordinary  method. 

"  ''         with  a  cross-shaped  incision. 

"  "  *'    the  incision  reversed. 

"  "         by  veneering. 

Bud-grafting,  the  combined  or  double  method. 
2.  —Flute-grafting. 

"  "        Common  method. 

"  "        With  strips  of  bark. 

7.  Particular  Methods  by  which  Various  Fruits  are  Multiplied. 

Barberry  ....  Cuttings  of  mature  wood ;  seeds. 

Orange Seeds ;  seedlings  budded  or  grafted. 

Figs Cuttings,  either  of  soft  or  mature  wood. 

Mulberry  ....  Cuttings  of  mature  wood.    Some  varieties  are 

root-grafted,  and  some  are  budded. 
Olive Cuttings  of  mature  or  even  old  wood.     Chips 

from  the  trunks  of  old  trees  are  sometimes 

used. 
Pomegranate  •   •  Cuttings,  layers  and  seeds. 
Apple  and  Pear .  Seeds ;  seedlings  budded  or  grafted. 
Peach  and  other  stone-fruits- 
Seeds;  seedlings  budded. 

Quince Cuttings,  usually ;  the  cuttings  often  grafted. 

Grape Cuttings  of  from  one  to  three  buds  ;  layers. 

Currant  and  Gooseberry- 
Cuttings. 
Raspberries,  red. Suckers  from  the  root;  root-cuttings. 

"  brk. Layers  from  tips  of  canes ;  root-cuttings. 

Blackberry  .  .   .  Root-cuttings ;  suckers  from  the  root. 
Cranberry    .   .    .  Layers  or  divisions. 
Strawberry  .  .    .  Runners ;  tip-cuttings. 


Maturities,    Yields  and  Multiplication.        103 

8.     Stocks  Used  for  Various  Fruits. 

Almond Peach,  hard-shelled  almond,  plum. 

Apple Common  apple  seedlings.  Paradise  and 

Doucin  stocks,  crab-apple  and  wild 

crab. 
Apricot Apricot  and  peach  in  mild  climates  and 

plum  in  severe  ones. 
Cherry Mazzard  stocks  are  preferred  for  stand- 
ards;   Mahaleb  stocks  are  used  for 

dwarfing. 

Medlar Hawthorn,  medlar,  quince. 

Mulberry Seedlings  of  Avhite  mulberry. 

Orange Otaheite  orange,  shaddock;    Citrui    tri- 

foUata,  particulai'ly  for  dwarfs. 
Peach  and  Nectarine.  .  Peach.   Plum  is  often  used  when  dwarfs 

are  wanted,  or  when  the  peach  must 

be  gi'own  in  a  too  severe  climate  or 

upon  heavy  soil. 
Pear Pear ;  quince,  mountain-ash,  or  thorn  for 

dwarfs.    Apple  temporarily. 
Persimmon,  Japanese  .  Native  persimmon. 

Plum Plum,  Myrobolan  plum,  peach. 

Quince The  finer  varieties  are  sometimes  grafted 

upon  strong-growing  kinds  like  the 

Angers 


^  ^    (t)  (e)  (€)  (g)    y 


Theory  is  the  general, — practice,  the  soldiers. 
—Leonardo  da  Vinci. 


CHAPTER   XII. 


Methods    of    Keeping    and  Storing  Fruits    and 

Vegetables. 
Apples.— 

1.  Keep  the  fruit  as  cool  as  possible  without  freezing. 
Select  only  normal  fruit,  and  place  it  upon  trays  in  a  moist 
but  well  ventilated  cellar.  If  it  is  desired  to  keep  the  fruit 
particularly^  nice,  allow  no  fruits  to  touch  each  other  upon 
the  trays,  and  the  individual  fruits  may  be  ^vi'apped  in  tissue 
paper.  For  market  purposes,  pack  tightly  in  barrels,  and 
store  the  barrels  in  a  very  cool  place. 

2.  Some  solid  apples,  like  Spitzenberg,  are  not  injured  by 
hard  freezing,  if  they  are  allowed  to  remain  frozen  until 
wanted  and  are  then  thawed  out  very  gradually. 

3.  Manj'  apples,  particularly  russets  and  other  firm  varie- 
ties, keep  well  when  buried  after  the  manner  of  pitting  pota- 
toes. Sometimes,  however,  they  taste  of  the  earth.  This 
may  be  prevented  by  setting  a  ridge-pole  over  the  pile  of. 
Apples  in  forked  sticks,  and  making  a  roof  of  boards  in  such 
a  manner  that  there  will  be  an  air-space  over  the  fruit. 
Then  cover  the  boards  with  straw  and  earth.  Apples  seldom 
keep  well  after  removal  from  a  pit  in  spring. 

4.  Apples  may  be  kept  by  burying  in  chaff.  Spread  chaff 
—buckwheat-chaff  is  good — on  the  barn-floor,  pile  on  the 
apples  and  cover  them  with  chaff  and  fine  broken  or  chopped 
straw  two  feet  thick,  exercising  care  to  fill  the  interstices. 

Pears. — Pears  should  be  picked  several  days  or  a  couple  of  weeks 
before  they  are  ripe,  and  then  placed  in  a  dry  and  well-ven- 
tilated room,  like  a  chamber.  Make  very  shallow  piles,  or 
better,  place  on  trays. 

(104) 


Keeping  and  Storing  Fruits  and  Vegetables.    105 

Figs.— After  the  figs  are  gathered  and  dried  in  the  same  waj^  as 
peaches  or  apricots,  wash  to  remove  all  grit,  and  spread  in 
shallow  pans  and  set  them  in  the  oven  to  become  thoroughly 
heated,  taking  care  to  prevent  scorching.  Then  roll  in 
powdered  sugar,  which  has  been  rolled  to  remove  all  lumps. 
When  cold,  pack  away,  preferably  in  paper  bags.  They 
diake  a  delicious  lunch  with  a  bowl  of  milk.  They  also  help 
to  make  a  nice  dessert. 

Gooseberries  keep  well  if  kept  tight  in  common  bottles  filled  with 
pure  water.  Be  sure  that  none  but  perfect  berries  are  ad- 
mitted, and  keep  in  a  cool  place. 

Grapes. — 

1.  The  firm  grapes  usually  keep  best — as  Catawba,  Ver- 
gennes,  Niagara,  Diana,  Jefferson,  etc.  Thickness  of  skin 
does  not  appear  to  be  correlated  with  good  keeping  qualities 
Always  cut  the  bunches  which  are  to  be  stored  on  a  dry 
day,  when  the  berries  are  ripe,  and  carefully  remove  all  soft, 
bruised  and  imperfect  fruits  and  all  leaves.  Keep  the  fruit 
dry,  cool,  and  away  from  currents  of  air.  Many  varieties 
keep  well  if  sim])ly  placed  in  shallow  boxes  or  baskets  and 
kept  undisturbed  in  a  cool  place. 

2.  Pack  the  bunches  in  layers  of  dry,  clean  sand. 

3.  Pack  in  layers  of  some  small  grain,  as  wheat,  or  oats, 
or  barley. 

4.  Cork-dust  is  also  excellent  for  use  is  packing  grapes. 
This  cork  can  be  had  from  grocers  who  handle  the  white 
Malagas,  which  are  packed  in  this  material. 

5.  Pack  the  bunches  in  finely  cut,  soft  and  dry  hay,  placing 
the  grapes  and  hay  in  consecutive  laj^ers. 

6.  Dry  hardwood  sawdust  is  also  good  for  packing. 

7.  Place  on  shelves  in  a  cool,  airy  room.  After  a  few  days 
wrap  the  bunches  separately  in  soft  paper  and  pack  in 
shallow  pasteboard  boxes,  not  more  than  two  or  three  layers 
deep.    Keep  in  a  cool,  dry  room  that  is  free  from  frost. 

8.  Cut  the  bunches  with  sharp  scissors,  place  in  shallow 
baskets,  but  few  in  a  basket,  and  after  reaching  the  house 
dip  the  cut  end  of  stems  in  melted  wax.  Now  take  tissue 
paper  or  very  thin  manila  paper  cut  just  to  the  right  size, 


io6  The  Horticidturisf  s  Rule- Book. 

Grapes,  continued. 

and  carefully  wrap  each  cluster  of  grapes.  Secure  shallow 
tin  boxes ;  place  a  layer  of  cotton-batting  at  the  bottom,  then 
a  laj^er  of  grapes,  then  batting ;  three  layers  of  grapes  are 
enough  for  one  box,  alternating  Avith  cotton-batting,  and 
topping  wath  batting ;  then  gently  secure  the  lid  to  each  box, 
and  when  done  place  in  cold-storage  for  use  in  April  or  even 
later.  If  cold-storage  cannot  bo  had,  put  in  a  dry,  cool 
room,  and  when  cold  weather  approaches  cover  in  an  interior 
closet  Avith  just  sufficient  covering  to  prevent  freezing; 
warmth  will  cause  over-ripening  and  deterioration.  ■ 

9.  Roe's  Method. — In  a  stone  jar  place  alternate  laj^ers 
of  grapes  and  straw  paper,  the  paper  being  in  double  thick- 
ness. Over  the  jar  place  a  cloth  and  bury  below  frost  in  a 
dry  soil.    The  grapes  will  keep  until  New- Year's. 

Keeping  Grapes  for  Market  (W.  M.  Pattison,  Quebec).— 
It  is  the  generally  received  opinion  that  the  thick-skinned 
native  seedlings  are  the  only  keepers.  This  is  correct  as 
regards  preserving  flavor,  but  several  hybrids  of  foreign 
blood  are  the  best  keepers  known.  Before  giving  results  of 
this  and  former  trials,  instructions  in  packing  may  bo  of 
service.  The  varieties  intended  to  be  laid  up  for  winter  use 
should  be  those  alone  which  adhere  well  to  the  stem  and  are 
not  inclined  to  shrivel.  These  should  be  allowed  to  remain 
on  the  vines  as  long  as  they  are  safe  from  frost.  A  clear 
dry  day  is  necessary  for  picking,  and  careful  handling  and 
shallow  baskets  are  important.  The  room  selected  for  the 
drjing-process  should  be  well  ventilated,  and  the  fruit  laid 
out  in  single  laj'ers  on  tables  or  in  baskets  where  the  air 
circulates  freely,  the  windows  being  closed  at  night  and  in 
damp  weather.  In  about  ten  days  the  stems  will  be  dried 
out  sufficiently  to  prevent  molding  when  laid  away.  When 
danger  from  this  is  over,  and  the  stems  resemble  those  of 
raisins,  the  time  for  packing  has  arrived.  In  this,  the  point 
to  be  observed  is  to  exclude  air  proportionately  with  their 
tendency  to  mold.  I  have  used  baskets  for  permanent 
packing,  but  much  prefer  shallow  trays  or  boxes  of  uniform 
size  to  bo  packed  on  each  other,  so  that  each  box  forms  a 
cover  for  the  lower,  the  uppermost  only  needing  one.    Until 


Keeping  arid  Storing  Fruits  and  Vegetables.    107 


Grapes,  continued. 

very  cold  weather,  the  boxes  can  be  piled  so  as  to  allow  the 
remaining  moisture  to  escape  through  a  crevice  about  the 
width  of  a  knife-blade.  Before  packing,  each  bunch  should 
be  examined,  and  all  injured,  cracked  and  rotten  berries 
removed  with  suitable  scissors.  If  two  layers  are  packed  in 
a  box,  a  sheet  of  paper  should  intervene.  The  boxes  must 
be  kept  in  a  cool,  dry  room  or  passage,  at  an  even  tempera- 
ture. If  the  thermometer  goes  much  below  freezing-point,  a 
blanket  or  newspaper  can  be  thrown  over  them,  to  be  re- 
moved in  mild  weather.  Looking  over  them  once  in  the 
Avinter  and  removing  defective  berries  will  suffice,  the 
poorest  keepers  being  placed  accessible.  Under  this  treat- 
ment the  best  keepers  will  be  in  good  edible  order  as  late  as 
February,  after  which  they  deteriorate. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  grapes  worth  noticing,  that  have 
been  tested  for  keeping : 


Description. 


List  of  Grapes  to  be  Recommended. 


Nov.  ist 


Dec.  ist. 


Jan.  isi. 


Ladj-^j  Antoinette,  Carlotta,  Belinda. 


Lady  Washington,  Peter  Wiley,  Mason,  Worden, 
Senasqua,  Roniell's  Superior,  Ricketts'  No.  546, 
Concord,  Delaware. 


Duchess,  Essex,  Barrj-,  Rockland,  Favorite,  Aminia, 
Garber,  Massasoit,  Dempsey's  No.  5,  Burnett, 
Undine,  Allen's  Hybrid,  Agawam,  Gen.  Pope, 
Francis  Scott. 


Jan.  15th.    !  Salem,  Vergennes,  El  Dorado. 


Feb.  ist.     I   Wilder,  Herbert,  Peabody,  Rogers'  No.  30,  Gaertner, 
I       Mary  and  Owosso. 

^ I . 

Orange.— Aside  from  the  customary  wrapping  of  oranges  in 
tissue  paper  and  packing  them  in  boxes,  burying  in  dry  sand 
is  sometimes  practiced.  The  fruit  is  first  wrapped  in  tissue 
paper,  and  it  should  be  buried  in  such  manner  that  the  fruit 
shall  not  be  more  than  three  tiers  deep. 


io8  The  Horticulturist's   Rule- Book. 

Crystallized  or  Glac6  Fruit.— The  principle  is  to  extract  the  juice 
from  the  fruit  and  replace  it  with  sugar  syrup,  which 
hardens  and  preserves  the  fruit  in  its  natural  shape.  The 
fruit  should  be  all  of  one  size  and  of  a  uniform  degree  of 
ripeness,  such  as  is  best  for  canning.  Peaches,  pears  and 
similar  fruits  are  pared  and  cut  in  halves  ;  plums,  cherries, 
etc.,  are  pitted.  After  being  properly  prepared,  the  fruit  is 
put  in  a  basket  or  bucket  with  a  perforated  bottom  and 
immersed  in  boiling  water  to  dilute  and  extract  the  juice. 
This  is  the  most  important  part  of  the  process,  and  requires 
great  skill.  If  the  fruit  be  left  too  long,  it  is  over-cooked 
and  becomes  soft ;  if  not  long  enough,  the  juice  is  not  sufiQ- 
ciently  extracted,  and  this  prevents  perfect  absorption  of 
the  sugar.  After  the  fruit  cools,  it  may  again  be  assorted 
as  to  softness.  The  syrup  is  made  of  white  sugar  and  water. 
The  softer  the  fruit,  the  heavier  the  syrup  required.  The 
fruit  is  placed  in  earthen  pans,  covered  with  syrup  and 
left  about  a  week.  This  is  a  critical  stage,  as  fermentation 
will  soon  take  place,  and  when  this  has  reached  a  certain 
stage  the  fruit  and  S5'rup  are  heated  to  the  boiling  point, 
which  checks  the  fermentation.  This  is  repeated,  as  often 
as  may  be  necessary,  for  about  six  weeks.  The  fruit  is 
taken  out  of  the  sj^'up,  washed  in  clean  water,  and  either 
glaced  or  crystallized,  as  desired.  It  is  dipped  in  thick 
syrup,  and  hardened  quickly  in  the  open  air  for  glaciug,  or 
left  to  be  hardened  slowly  if  to  be  crj-stallized.  The  fruit  is 
now  ready  for  packing,  and  will  keep  in  any  climate. 

Preserving  Fruits  for  Exhibition. — Several  methods  are  employed. 
Perhaps  the  best  is  to  place  the  fruits  in  corrosive  sublimate 
— which  is  a  "vdolent  poison — prepared  at  the  rate  of  half  an 
ounce  to  a  gallon  of  water.  Renew  the  liquid  every  year  or 
two.  Distilled  or  other  very  pure  water  should  be  used  if  it 
is  desired  to  retain  the  color  of  the  fruit. 

Sulphur  is  sometimes  used  as  follows  :  Put  30  gallons  of 
water  in  a  40-gallon  barrel ;  float  on  top  of  the  water  a  tin 
pan,  in  which  put  a  little  sulphur.  Set  the  sulphur  on  fire 
and  cover  tightly  until  the  fire  goes  out ;  renew  the  sulphur 
several  times,  opening  the  barrel  for  renewal  of  air  between 
the  doses.     This  fluid  is  then  used  as  a  preservative. 


Keeping  and  Storing  Fruits  ayid  Vegetables     109 

Preserving:  Fruits  for  Exhibition,  continued. 

A  satisfactory  fluid  is  made  by  placing  an  ounce  of  sali- 
cylic acid  in  5  gals,  water,  and  then  adding  a  little  glycerine. 
The  amount  of  glycerine  will  depend  upon  the  juiciness  of  the 
fruit.  The  gi'eater  the  juiciness,  the  more  glycerine  must  be 
added.  From  8  to  15  per  cent,  may  be  considered  an 
average. 
Cabbage. — The  most  satisfactory  method  of  keeping  cabbages  is 
to  bury  them  in  the  field.  Select  a  dry  place,  pull  the  cab- 
bages and  stand  them  head  down  on  the  soil.  Cover  them 
with  soil  to  the  depth  of  six  or  ten  inches,  covering  very 
lightly  at  first  to  prevent  heating — unless  the  weather  should 
quickly  become  severe — and  as  winter  sets  in  cover  with  a 
good  dressing  of  straw  or  coarse  manure.  The  cabbages 
should  be  allowed  to  stand  where  they  grew  until  cold 
weather  approaches.  The  storing-beds  are  usually  made 
about  6  or  8  feet  wide,  so  that  the  middle  of  the  bed  can  be 
reached  from  either  side,  and  to  prevent  heating  if  the 
weather  should  remain  open.  Cabbages  quickly  decay  in 
the  warm  weather  of  spring. 

Cabbage  for  family  use  is  most  conveniently  kept  in  a 
barrel  or  box  half  buried  in  the  garden.  Cabbages  and 
turnips  should  never  be  kept  in  the  cellar,  as  when  decaying 
they  become  very  offensive. 
Celery. — For  market  purposes,  celery  is  stored  in  temporary 
board  pits,  in  sheds,  in  cellars,  and  in  various  kinds  of  earth 
pits  and  trenches.  The  points  to  be  considered  are,  to 
provide  the  plants  with  moisture  to  prevent  wilting,  to 
prevent  hard  freezing,  and  to  give  some  ventilation.  The 
plants  are  set  loosely  in  the  soil.  There  are  several  methods 
of  keeping  celery  in  an  ordinary  cellar  for  home  use.  The 
following  methods  are  good : 

Take  a  shoe  or  similar  box.  Bore  one-inch  holes  in  the 
sides,  four  inches  from  bottom.  Put  a  layer  of  sand  or  soil 
in  the  box,  and  stand  the  plants,  trimmed  carefully,  upon  it, 
closely  together,  working  more  sand  or  soil  about  the  root 
part,  and  continue  until  the  box  is  full.  The  soil  should  be 
watered  as  often  as  needed,  but  always  through  the  holes  in 
the  side  of  the  box.    Keep  the  foliage  dry. 


no  The   Horticulturisf  s   Rule- Book. 

Celery»  continued. 

Celery  maj^  also  be  stored  and  well  blanched  at  the  same 
time,  in  a  similar  way,  by  standing  it  in  a  barrel  upon  a 
layer  of  soil.  Some  roots  and  soil  may  be  left  adhering  to 
the  plants.  Crowd  closely,  water  through  holes  near  the 
bottom  as  in  case  of  box  storage,  and  keep  the  plants  in  the 
dark. 

Blanched  celery  can  also  be  preserved  for  a  long  time  by 
trimming  closely  and  packing  upright  in  moss  inside  of  a 
box.  A  large  quantity  of  the  vegetable  may  thus  be  stored 
in  a  small  space. 

Onions  demand  a  dry  cellar,  and  the  bulbs  should  be  thoroughly 
dried  in  the  sun  before  they  are  stored.  All  tops  should  be 
cut  away  when  the  onions  are  harvested.  If  a  cellar  cannot 
be  had,  the  bulbs  may  be  allowed  to  freeze,  but  great  care 
must  be  exercised  or  the  whole  crop  will  be  lost.  The 
onions  must  not  be  subjected  to  extremes  of  temperature, 
and  they  should  not  thaw  out  during  the  winter.  They  can 
be  stored  on  the  north  side  of  a  loft,  being  covered  with  two 
or  three  feet  of  straw,  hay  or  chaff  to  preserve  an  equable 
temperature.  They  must  not  be  handled  while  frozen,  and 
they  must  thaw  out  very  gi-adually  in  the  spring.  This 
method  of  keeping  onions  is  reliable  only  when  the  weather 
is  cold  and  tolerably  uniform. 

Roots  of  all  sorts,  as  beets,  carrots,  salsify,  parsnips,  can  be 
kept  fi'om  wilting  by  packing  them  in  damp  sphagnum  moss, 
like  that  used  by  nurserj^men.  They  may  also  be  packed  in 
sand.  It  is  an  erroneous  notion  that  parsnips  and  salsify 
are  not  good  until  after  they  are  frozen. 

Squashes  should  be  stored  in  a  dry  room  in  which  the  tempera- 
ture is  uniform  and  about  50°.  Growers  for  market  usually 
build  squash-houses  or  rooms  and  heat  them.  Great  care 
should  be  taken  not  to  bruise  any  squashes  which  are  to  be 
stored.  Squashes  procured  from  the  market  have  usually 
been  too  roughly  handled  to  be  reliable  for  storing. 

Sweet-potatoes. — Ix  the  North. — Dig  the  potatoes  on  a  sunny  day, 
and  allow  them  to  dry  thoroiighly  in  the  field.  Sort  out  the 
poor  ones  and  handle  the  remainder  carefully.  Never  allow 
them  to  become  chilled.      Then  pack  them  in  barrels  in 


Keepi7ig  and  Storing  Fruits  and  Vegetables.    1 1 1 

Sweet-potatoes,  continued. 

layers,  in  dry  sand,  and  store  in  a  warm  cellar.  They  are 
sometimes  stored  in  finely  broken  charcoal,  in  charcoal-dust, 
wheat-chaff  and  similar  substances. 

Sometimes  they  are  kept  in  small  and  open  crates,  with- 
out packing-material,  the  crates  being  stacked  so  as  to  allow 
thorough  ventilation.  The  Hayman  or  Southern  Queen  keeps 
well  in  this  way. 

A  warm  attic  is  often  a  good  place  in  which  to  store  sweet- 
potatoes.  A  tight  room  over  a  kitchen  is  particularly  good 
when  it  is  so  arranged  that  the  heat  from  the  kitchen  can  be 
utilized  in  warming  it. 

Ix  THE  South  (Berckmans).— Digging  the  tubers  should 
be  delayed  until  the  vines  have  been  sufticiently  touched  by 
frost  to  check  vegetation.    Allow  the  potatoes  to  dry  off  in 
the  field,  which  will  take  but  a  few  hours.     Then  sort  all 
those  of  eating-size  to  be  banked  separately  from  the  smaUer 
ones.     The  banks  are  prepared  as  follows :     Make  a  circular 
bed  six  feet  in  diameter,  in  a  sheltered  corner  of  the  garden, 
throwing  up  the  earth  about  a  foot  high.    Cover  this  with 
straw  and  bank  up  the  tubers  in  shape  of  a  cone,  using  from 
10  to  20  bushels  to  each  bank.    A  triangular  pipe  made  of 
narrow  planks  to  act  as  a  ventilator  should  be  placed  in  the 
middle  of  the  cone.    Cover  the  tubers  with  straw  6  to  10 
inches  thick  and  bank  the  latter  with  earth,  first  using  only 
a  small  quantity,  but  increasing  the  thickness  a  week  or  ten 
days  afterwards.    A  board  should  be  placed  upon  the  top  of 
the  ventilating-pipe  to   prevent  water  from  reaching  the 
tubers.    Several  banks  are  usually  made  in  a  row,  and  a 
rough  shelter  of  boards  built  over  the  whole.     The  main 
point  to  be  considered  in  putting  up  sweet-potatoes  for  winter 
is  entire  freedom  from  moisture  and  sufficient  covering  to 
prevent  heating.     It  is  therefore  advisable  to  allow ''the 
tubers  to  undergo  sweating  (which  invariably  occurs  after 
being  put  in  heaps)  before  covering  them  too  much;  and  if 
the  temporary  covering  is  removed  for  a  few  hours,  a  week 
after  being  heaped,  the  moisture  generated  will  be  removed 
and  very  little  difficulty  will  follow  from  that  cause.    If 
covered  too  thickly  at  once,  the  sweating  often  engenders 


112  The   HorticulturisV  s  Ride- Book. 

Sweet-Potatoes,  continued. 

rapid  fermentation,  and  loss  is  then  certain  to  follow.  Sand 
is  never  used  here  in  banking  potatoes.  Some  varieties  of 
potatoes  keep  much  better  than  others.  The  Yellow  Sugar 
Yam  and  the  Pumpkin  Yam  are  the  most  difficult  to  carry 
through ;  while  the  Trinidad  potato  keeps  as  readil3'  as  Irish 
potatoes,  only  requiring  to  be  kept  free  from  frost  and  light 
by  a  slight  covering  of  straw,  if  the  tubers  are  placed  in  a 
house.  Next  in  keeping  quality  come  the  Hati  Yam,  the 
Red-skinned,  Brimstone,  Nigger  Killer;  and  the  last  of  the 
potato  section  is  the  Nansemond. 

Tomatoes, — Pick  the  firmest  fruits  just  as  they  are  beginning  to 
turn,  leaving  the  stems  on,  exercising  care  not  to  bruise  them, 
and  pack  in  a  barrel  or  box  in  clean  and  thoroughlj'  dry  sand, 
placing  the  fruits  so  that  they  will  not  touch  each  other. 
Place  the  barrel  in  a  dry  place. 

In  the  autumn,  when  frosts  appear,  tomatoes,  if  carefully 
picked  and  laid  on  straw  under  the  glass  of  cold-frames,  will 
continue  to  ripen  until  near  Christmas.  Fruit  ripened  in 
this  way  seems  to  be  as  good  as  that  ripening  natui-ally  on 
the  vines. 

The  ripening  of  tomatoes  maj^  be  hastened  ten  days  by 
bagging  them  as  grapes  are  bagged. 


These  are  arts  pursued  -without  a  crime. 
That  leave  no  stain  upon  the  wings  of  Time. 

— COWPER. 


CHAPTER   XIII. 


Standard  and  Legal  Measures  and  Sizes. 

I.     Standard   Flower-Pots. 

American. 

The  Society  of  American  Florists  has  adopted  a  standard  pot, 
ia  which  all  measurements  are  made  inside,  and  which  bears  a 
)  ini  or  shoulder  at  the  top.  The  breadth  and  depth  of  these  pots 
are  the  same,  so  that  they  "  nest "  well. 

English— Chiswick  Standards. 

Diam. 

at  top.  Depth. 

Thimbles 2    in.  2    in. 

Thumbs 2^  23^ 

60*s 3  SX 

54^s 4  4 

48*s 43^  5 

32's 6  6 

24's 83^  8 

16's 93^  9 

12"s UK  10 

8's 12  11 

6's 13  12 

4's 15  13 

2's 18  14 


(113) 


114 


The   Horticidturisfs   Ride-Book. 


a.     Legal  and  Stan 

Legal  Weights  of  a  Bushel  of  Produce 


o 

% 

States. 

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Arkansas • 

32 

California 

. 

. 

40 

52 

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Colorado 

60 

52 

70 

56 

50 

57 

32 

Connecticut 

60 

48 

• 

56 

50 

50 

82 

Delaware 

56 

48 

. 

Georgia 

24 

60 

52 

70 

56 

48 

57 

32 

Illinois •    -   • 

24 

46 

60 

52 

70 

56 

48 

57 

32 

Indiana 

25 

66 

60 

50 

68 

56 

50 

48 

32 

Iowa 

4S 

48 

46 

60 

52 

70 

56 

57 

32 

Kansas 

24 

44 

60 

50 

70 

56 

50 

57 

32 

Kentucky 

24 

45 

60 

56 

70 

56 

50 

57 

32 

Louisiana 

. 

. 

56 

32 

Maine 

44 

28 

60 
60 

60 
60 

48 
48 

70 

56 
56 

50 

48 

52 
56 

32 

Maryland 

26 

Massachusetts 

48 

56 

50 

52 

32 

Michigan 

48 

22 

46 

60 

48 

70 

56 

50 

54 

32 

Minnesota 

28 

42 

56 

32 

Missouri 

48 

24 

46 

60 

52 

56 

50 

57 

32 

Nebraska 

24 

46 

60 

52 

70 

56 

50 

57 

32 

Nevada  

. 

60 

56 

50 

New  Hampshire  .... 

62 

56 

50 

32 

New  Jersey 

50 

25 

60 

60 

50 

56 

57 

30 

New  York 

62 

48 

58 

32 

North  Carolina 

50 

56 

48 

32 

Ohio 

48 

123 

60 

50 

68 

56 

50 

32 

Oregon 

45 

42 

56 

. 

3(5 

Pennsylvania 

48 

. 

56 

. 

J^ 

32 

Rhode  Island 

. 

56 

50 

52 

32 

Tennessee 

50 

24 

60 

50 

70 

56 

50 

56 

32 

Texas    

60 

42 

56 

57 

32 

Vermont 

46 

60 

62 

48 

56 

52 

32 

Virginia 

. 

28 

60 

52 

70 

56 

50 

57 

32 

West  Virginia 

25 

60 

52 

. 

56 

32 

Wisconsin 

56 

28 

60 

50 

56 

50 

32 

Washington 

45 

• 

Sta7ida7'd  and  Legal  Measii7rs  and  Sizes.        115 


dard  Measures. 

in  various  Stales,  corrected  to  iSgi. 


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40 

60 
60 

56 

62 

56 

56 

14 

64 

56 

48 
48 

44 

50 

.   45 
.   45 

56 

60 
60 

28 

60 

56 

60 

56 

14 

60 

56 

48 

44 

50 

45 

58 

60 

28 

60 

56 

60 

48 

60 

33 

60 

56 

60 

56 

14 

60 

56 

48 

44 

45 

42 

60 

33 

60 
60 

50 

60 
60 

56 
56 

14 

60 

60 

56 

48 

44 

40  3 

0  45 

55 

60 
60 

60 

54 

60 

56 

64 

55 

48 

50 

60 

60 

56 

60 

55 

48 

44 

60 

60 

56 

60 

55 

48 

60 

48 

60 
60 
56 
60 

50 

60 

56 
56 
56 
56 

60 
60 
62 

56 

48 
46 
47 

'48 

44 

50 

45 

60 

60 
60 

50 

(K) 

50 

60 

14 

60 

56 

48 

50 

45 

50 

60 

1 
1 

60 

55 

56 

60 

56 

48 

45 

55 

60 

1 

60 

60 

56 

60 

48 

45 

60 

40 

60 

56 

60 

56 

14 

60 

56 

48 

44 

50 

45 

55 

60 

33  ! 

60 

56 

60 

56 

48 

45 

60 

28 

60 

56 

GO 

56 

48 

*' 

42 

Ii6  The    Horticulturisf s   Rule- Book. 

3.     Mfsceilaneous  Legal  Weights  Per  Bushel. 

Beets:  60  lbs.  in  Maine,  Vermont,  Connecticut.  Carrots: 
50  lbs.  in  Maine  and  Vermont,  55  in  Connecticut.     Parsnips: 

45  lbs.  in  Connecticut.   Sweet-Potatoes  :   54  lbs.  in  New  Jersey, 

46  in  Dakota,  50  in  Ohio,  Kansas,  Nebraska,  55  in  Indiana,  Ken- 
tucky, Texas,  Georgia,  56  in  Michigan,  Virginia,  Missouri,  46  in 
Iowa.  Berries  :  32  lbs.  in  Rhode  Island.  Cherries,  Grapes, 
Currants,  Gooseberries,  weigh 40  lbs.  in  Iowa.  Blackberries, 
Strawberries,  Raspberries,  32  lbs.  in  Iowa.  Peaches, 
Quinces,  48  lbs.  in  Iowa.  Dried  Plums,  28  lbs.  in  Michigan. 
Cranberries,  40  lbs.  in  Michigan.  "  Wilt>  Peaches,"  33  lbs.  in 
Ohio. 

4.  Miscellaneous  Legal  Sizes. 

The  heap  bushel  contains  2,504  cubic  ins.  in  Connecticut  and 
Kansas;  2,150.42  ins.  in  New  Jersey,  Pennsj'lvania,  Nebraska, 
Tennessee,  Missouri,  Washington. 

The  bushel  measure  must  be  19X  ins.  in  outside  diameter, 
the  half -bushel  IS)-^  ins.,  the  peck  12)-^  ins.  in  New  York  and 
California. 

The  bushel  measure  must  be  18K  ins.  in  inside  diameter,  the 
half -bushel  13^  ins.,  the  peck  10^  ins.  and  the  half-peck  9  ins. 
in  New  Hampshire  and  Minnesota. 

Produce  sold  by  dry  measure  must  be  heaped  as  full  as  the 
measure  will  hold  in  Ohio,  Illinois,  Michigan,  Wisconsin,  Minne- 
sota, California,  Oregon  and  Washington. 

Heap  measures  must  be  cylindrical,  with  a  plane  bottom,  in 
New  York  and  California. 

The  half-bushel  is  13|f  ins.  in  interior  diameter  and  Ta?  in*, 
deep  in  Ohio.     It  contains  l,075i  cubic  Ins.  in  Indiana. 

In  New  Jersey  the  cranberry-box,  to  hold  a  bushel,  must  be 
12x8^x22  ins.  in  the  clear. 

In  Wisconsin,  cranberry  packages  must  conform  to  the  follow- 
ing sizes:  "The  legal  and  standard  cranberry-barrel  in  this 
state  shall  be  twenty-three  and  three-quarter  inches  high,  six- 
teen and  one-fourth  inches  in  diameter  at  the  head,  and  eighteen 
inches  in  diameter  at  the  bilge,  inside  measure.  Every  manu- 
facturer of  barrels  for  cranberries  shall  stamp  or  brand  his  name 
with  the  letters  W.  S.  on  such  barrels,  to  indicate  that  they  are 
the  Wisconsin  Standard  in  size.     All  sales   of  cranberries  in 


Standard  and  Legal  Measures  ajid  Sizes.      117 

Miscellaneous  Legal  Sizes,  continued. 

packages  less  than  a  barrel  should  be  by  the  bushel  or  quart, 
struck  or  level  dry  measure.  A  standard  bushel  crate  for  cran- 
berries shall  be  twenty-two  inches  long,  twelve  and  one-fourth 
inches  wide  by  seven  andx)nc-half  inches  deep,  inside  measure." 

In  Michigan  the  quantity  known  as  a  box  or  a  basket  of  peaches 
shall  contain  716*  cubic  ins.  or  )i  of  a,  bushel,  strict  measure. 

In  New  York  a  barrel  of  apples,  quinces,  pears  or  potatoes 
shall  contain  100  quarts  of  grain  or  dry  measure,  except  that 
potatoes,  when  sold  by  weight,  shall  be  173  lbs.  to  the  barrel. 

In  New  York  the  measure  for  fruit  shaU  be  the  half -bushel, 
which  shall  be  made  cylindrical,  the  diameter  outside  to  outside 
15X  ins.     The  standard  half-bushel  has  l.OToxVo  cubic  ins. 

Michigan  Standard  Measure. — The  half -bushel  or  parts  there- 
of shall  be  the  standard  measure  for  fruits  customarily  sold 
by  heaped  measure;  and,  in  measuring  said  commodities,  the 
half-bushel  or  other  small  measure  shall  be  heaped  as  high  as 
may  be,  without  special  effort  or  design. 

Michigan  Standard  Barrel.  —  A  barrel  of  fruit,  roots  or 
vegetables  is  the  quantity  contained  in  a  barrel  made  from 
staves  27  ins.  in  length,  and  each  head  W}4  ins.  in  diameter,  or 
ordinarj^  flour-barrel  size. 

The  standard  weight  of  apples  is  48  lbs.  to  the  bushel. 

In  Tennessee  a  barrel  of  apples  contains  2}4  bushels.  A  liquid 
barrel  contains  43  gals. 

In  Wisconsin  a  barrel  of  apples  shall  contain  100  quarts  dry 
measui'e. 

The  avoirdupois  pound  bears  to  the  troy  pound  the  relation  of 
7,000  to  5,700  in  New  York,  New  Jersey,  Pennsylvania,  Ohio, 
Iowa,  Nebraska,  Tennessee  and  California. 

5.    Society  and  Customary  Standards. 

The  standard  orange-box  adopted  by  the  Florida  Fruit  Ex- 
change measures  13x13x37  inches,  with  partition  in  the  middle. 
The  Exchange  issues  the  following  instructions : 

We  recommend  the  following  classifications  for  oranges: 
Fancy,  Choice  Bright,  Bright  Russet,  Choice  Russet,  Russet. 

Oranges  classed  as  Fancy  should  be  extra-bright,  with  very 
smooth,  thin  skin.  Rough,  thick-skinned  fruit,  being  ever  so 
bright,  should  never  be  classed  as  Fancy. 


ii8  The  HorticulturisV s   Rule- Book. 

Society  and  Customary  Standards,  continued. 

Orang-es  classed  as  Choice  Bright  should  be  strictly  bright 
and  fairlj'  smooth  skin  and  of  desirable  size. 

Oranges  classed  as  Bright  should  be  bright  and  free  from  rust. 

Oranges  classed  as  Bright  Russet  should  be  at  least  two-thirds 
bright,  with  smooth  skin  and  of  desirable  size. 

Oranges  classed  as  Choice  Russet  should  be  of  quite  smooth 
skin  and  of  desirable  size. 

Oranges  of  a  common  dark  variety  should  be  classed  as 
Russet. 

Never  pack  bright  and  rusty  oranges  in  the  same  box.  Never 
pack  large  and  small  oranges  in  the  same  box. 

One  of  the  most  important  features  in  the  packing  of  oranges 
is  the  uniform  neatness  of  the  packages.  Buyers  will  pay  more 
for  fruit  that  is  neatly  and  properly  packed  than  they  will  pay 
for  such  as  is  carelessly  put  up.  A  box  of  oranges  neatly  packed, 
strapped  and  marked,  naturally  attracts  the  attention  of  buyers. 

After  your  fruit  has  been  carefully  packed  in  accordance  with 
above  instructions,  please  mark  the  boxes  as  follows: 

Place  the  stencil  of  the  Florida  Fruit  Exchange  on  one  end  of 
the  box  in  center  of  head. 

In  the  upper  left-hand  corner  of  the  box-head  stencil  the 
quality  of  orange  the  box  contains— Fa»tcjy,  Choice  Bright,  Bright, 
Bright  Russet,  Choice  Russet,  Russet,  3Iandarin,  Tangerine,  or 
Navel,  as  the  case  may  be. 

In  the  upper  middle  of  the  box-head  stencil  the  nmnber  of 
oranges  the  box  contains— '-128,"  •'  17(5,"  "  200,"  etc.,  as  the  case 
may  be*. 

In  the  upper  right-hand  corner  stencil  the  lettei^s  according  to 
the  following  schedule: 

All  sizes  under  128,  mark  A. 

Sizes  128  to  138,  mark  B. 

Sizes  146  to  160,  mark  C. 

Sizes  176  to  200,  mark  D. 

All  sizes  over  200,  mark  E. 

The  Georgia  Horticultural  Society  adopts  the  one-third  bushel 
oblong  crate  for  peaches  and  similar  fruits.  The  dimensions  of 
this  crate  are  about  8x123^x22  inches. 


Standard  and  Legal  Measures  and  Sizes        i  ig 

Society  and  Customary  Standards,  continued. 

Califorxia.     Sizes  in  Common  Use  roii  Local  Markets. 
{Wick&on.) 

Apple  and  Pear. — Top,  bottom  and  sides  of  )^-in.  and  ends  of 
%-\n.  stuif.  The  length  is  22  ins. ;  ends  10  by  12  ins.  This  is 
called  a  50-lb.  box,  but  it  contains  less  weight. 

Cherry.— 15>^  ins.  in  length;  ends  8X  by  33^. 

Fig.— The  two-layer  fig-box  is  20  ins.  long;  ends  2  by  3>^  ins., 
and  holds  about  20  lbs.  The  single  layer  is  the  same  length  and 
width,  but  2  ins.  deep  and  holds  about  12  lbs. 

Grapes. — The  same  as  that  used  for  plums  in  distant  shipment, 
except  that  the  depth  is  usually  5  ins.,  and  the  contents  about  25 
lbs.  of  fruit.  Grapes  are  also  shipped  in  -l-lb.  splint  baskets,  of 
which  4  go  in  a  half  crate  or  8  in  a  whole  crate. 

Melons.,— Cantaloupe  crates  38  ins.  long,  16  ins.  wide  and  15 
ins.  deep.  Watermelons  come  in  bulk  in  cars  or  in  large  cases  of 
all  descriptions. 

Oranges.— Plat  boxes  22  ins.  long,  ends  1%  by  \1%  ins.  It  is 
divided  into  two  parts  by  a  central  partition.  The  prevailing 
orange-box  at  present  is  about  26)^  ins.  long,  ends  11)^  ins. 
square,  with  a  central  partition. 

Small  Fruits.— Chests  or  crates  which  contain  10,  15  or  20 
drawers.  The  drawers  are  15X  ins.  long,  ends  8)^  by  \%  ins. 
The  sizes  have  been  constantly  decreasing.  The  old  drawers 
held  5  lbs.  of  strawberries  ;  the  present  weight  is  about  4  lbs. 

Packages  for  Dried  Fruits. — 25-lb.  box:  Inside  measure- 
ments-length, 13^  ins. ;  width,  9^  ins. ;  depth,  5^  ins.  Outside 
measurements— length,  153;^  ins. ;  width,  10)^  ins. ;  depth,  GKins. ; 
top,  bottom  and  sides,  %  of  an  in.  thick;  ends  %  of  an  in.  thick. 

A  More  Flat  Package :  Inside  measurements — length,  16  ins. ; 
width,  9  ins. ;  depth,  5  ins.  Outside  measurements— length,  11% 
ins. ;  width,  9%  ins. ;  depth,  5^  ins.  Top,  bottom  and  sides,  % 
of  an  in.  thick ;  ends,  %  of  an  in.  thick. 

Fifty-Pound  Box :  Inside  measurements— length,  Vo\i  ins. ; 
width,  9  ins. ;  depth,  9  ins.  Outside  measurements— length,  11% 
ins. ;  width,  10  ins. ;  depth,  10  ins.  Top,  bottom  and  sides,  %  in. 
thick;  ends,  1  in.  thick. 


I20  The   Horticulturist's   Rule- Book. 

Society  and  Customary  Standards,  continued. 

Sacks  for  Dried  Fruit. — White  cotton  sacks,  made  of  what 
is  called  heavy  export  goods,  are  used  for  shipment  of  dried 
fruits.    They  are  20  by  36  ins.,  and  hold  about  80  lbs.  of  fruit. 

Raisins.— 20-lb.  raisin-box,  19%  ins.  long,  ends  9  by  ^%  ins. 
Half  box,  same  length  and  width,  depth,  1%  ins. ;  quarter  box, 
same  length  and  width,  depth,  \%  ins. ;  eighth  box,  15)^  ins.  long, 
ends  6  by  \%  ins. 

Califorxia   Packages    for   Eastern  Shipment  as  Adopted 
BT  THE  Fruit  Union  of  that  State. 

The  ends  of  all  boxes  should  be  made  of  ^-in.  stuff,  and  all 
cleats  of  ^-in.  stuff.  The  sides,  tops  and  bottoms  of  cherry 
boxes  should  be  3^-in.  stuff:  the  sides  made  of  two  strips,  each 
of  %An.  stuff  and  X  of  an  in.  in  width.  Peach,  pear  and  plum 
boxes  should  be  made  of  xj-in.  stuff.  All  the  lumber  used  should 
be  dressed  as  smooth  as  possible. 

Cherry-boxes,  capacity'  10  lbs.  Outside  measurements— 18  ins. 
in  length;  lOX  ins-  in  width;  3  ins.  in  depth.  Inside  measure- 
ments—length, 16X  ins. ;  width,  10^^  ins. ;  depth,  2)^  ins. 

Plum-boxes,  capacity  20  lbs.  Outside  measurements — 19^  ins. 
in  length,  12)^  ins.  in  width,  \%  ins.  in  depth.  Inside  measure- 
ments—length, 8X  ins. :  width,  11^  ins. ;  depth,  4  ins. 

There  are  four  sizes  of  peach  and  apricot-boxes : 

First,  capacity  22  lbs.  Outside  measurements — 19^  ins.  in 
length,  12)^  ins.  in  width,  ^%  ins.  in  depth.  Inside  measure- 
ments—length, 18X  ins. ;  width,  11^  ins. ;  depth,  ■^%  ins. 

Second,  capacity  25  lbs.  Outside  measurements— 19%  ins.  in 
length,  123^  ins.  in  width,  ^%  ins.  in  depth.  Inside  measure- 
ments— length,  183^  ins. ;  width,  \\%  ins. ;  depth,  4j^  ins. 

Third,  capacity  27  lbs.  Outside  measurements — 19%  ins.  in 
length,  123'^  ins.  in  width,  5%  ins.  in  depth.  Inside  measure- 
ments— length,  183^  ins. ;  width,  W%  ins. ;  dppth,  h%  ins. 

Fourth,  capacity  30  lbs.  Outside  measurements — 19%  ins.  in 
length,  123^  ins.  in  width,  6>^  ins.  in  depth.  Inside  measure- 
ments—length, 18X  ins. ;  width,  11%  ins. ;  depth,  h%  ins. 

Pear-boxes,  capacity  40  lbs.  Outside  measurements — 19%  ins. 
in  length,  12)^  ins.  in  width,  8X  ins.  in  depth.  Inside  measure- 
ments—length, 183^  ins. ;  width,  11%  ins. ;  depth,  8)^  ins. 


Standard  and  Leg^al  Measures  and  Sizes. 


Society  and  Customary  Standards,  continued. 

Miscellaneous.— Prunes  are  graded  by  running  them  over 
screens  of  various  degrees  of  coarseness.  The  meshes  should  bo 
oblong,  2  ins.  or  more  in  length  for  all  the  sizes,  the  widths  vary- 
ing as  stated  in  the  table  below.  The  California  EYench  prunes 
are  usually  sorted  in  six  sizes,  by  using  the  following  methods : 

Width  of  mesh  for 
green  prunes. 


Grade. 

Ext] 

ras,  40  to  50  to  pound 

No. 

1,50  to  60 

No. 

2,  60  to  70 

No. 

3,  70  to  80 

No. 

4,  SO  to  90    " 

No. 

5,  90  to  100 

\%  inch  . 
W     "     • 

1        "     . 


Width  of  mesh  for 

dried  prunes 
.    .    .    .\%  inch. 
....  IK 
.    .    .    .  1 

^  7/ 


Watermelons  are  usually  sorted  into  three  grades.  Of  the 
largest  size,  about  6  melons  are  placed  in  a  barrel.  Of  medium 
size,  about  8  (4  melons  in  each  of  two  layers),  and  of  the  smallest 
size,  10  to  12.  A  truck-load  of  melons  comprises  about  200  fair- 
sized  fruits.    A  car-load  numbers  from  1,000  to  1,500. 

Cocoanuts  are  packed  for  shipment  in  bags  which  hold  100. 

"  Ekimis ''  branded  upon  boxes  of  Smyrna  figs  means  A  No.  1, 
or  Superior  Selected.  "  Eleme  ''  means  Selected,  the  second  grade. 

6.     Covent  Garden  (London)  Measures. 

Sea-kale  Punnets. — 8  ins.  diameter  at  the  top,  1%  ins.  at  the 
bottom,  and  2  ins.  deep. 

Radish  Punnets. — 8  ins.  diameter  and  1  inch  deep,  if  to  hold 
G  hands ;  or  9  ins.  by  1  in.  for  12  hands. 

Mushroom. — 7  ins.  by  1  in. 

Salad  Punnets.— 5  ins.  by  1  in. 

Sieve. — Contains  7  imperial  gals.  Diameter,  15  ins. ;  depth,  8 
ins.   A  sieve  of  peas  is  equal  to  1  bu.   A  sieve  of  currants,  12  qts. 

Half-Sieve. — Contains  ?>}4  imperial  gals.  It  averages  12)^  ins. 
in  diameter  and  6  ins.  in  depth. 

Bushel  Sieve. — 10)^  imperial  gals.  Diameter  at  top,  11^  ins. ; 
at  bottom,  17  ins. ;  depth,  W%  ins. 

Bushel  Basket  ought,  when  heaped,  to  contain  an  imperial 
bu.shel.   Diameter  at  bottom  10  ins,,  at  top  14)-^  ins. ;  depth,  17  ins. 


122  The    Horficulfurisf s    Rule-Book. 

Covent  Garden  (London)  Measures,  continued. 

Walnuts,  nuts,  apples  and  potatoes  are  sold  by  this  measure.  A 
bu.  of  the  last-named,  cleansed,  weighs  56  lbs.,  but  four  pounds 
additional  are  allowed  if  they  are  not  washed. 

A  JUXK  contains  y^  of  a  bu. 

Pottle. — A  long  tapering  basket  that  holds  rather  over  a  pint 
and  a  half.  A  pottle  of  strawberries  should  hold  H  a  gal.,  but 
never  holds  more  than  1  qt.  A  pottle  of  mushrooms  should 
weigh  1  lb. 

Hand  applies  to  a  bunch  of  radishes,  which  contains  from  13 
to  30  or  more,  according  to  the  season. 

Bundle  contains  from  6  to  13  or  SO  heads  of  broccoli,  celery, 
etc. ;  sea-kale,  13  to  18  heads ;  rhubarb,  30  to  30  stems,  according 
to  size ;  asparagus  from  100  t©  150. 

Grapes  are  put  up  in  3-lb.  and  4-lb.  punnets ;  new  potatoes  by 
the  London  growers  in  3-lb.  punnets.  Apples  and  pears  are  put 
up  in  bu.  sieves  or  half-sieves.  A  hundredweight  of  Kentish  fil- 
berts is  104  lbs.    Weights  are  always  16  ozs.  to  the  lb. 

Bunch. — Radishes,  13  to  34 ;  carrots,  13  and  upwards ;  turnips, 
13  and  upwards ;  leeks,  6  and  upwards. 

A  ROLL  of  celery  contains  6,  8,  to  13  heads  or  roots. 

A  SCORE  of  lettuce  or  endive  is  33. 

A  TALLY  is  5  dozen. 


Flowers  are  the  friends  of  all,  and  we  look  with 

amazement  at  the  person  who  cannot  find  some  amount 

of  pleasure  in  their  study. 

— HfLDERic  Friend. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


Tables  of    Measures    and    Weights. 

Dry   Measure. 

2  pints =  1  quart. 

8  quarts '.....  =  1  peck. 

4  pecks  =1  bushel. 

8  bushels  (480  pounds) =  1  quarter. 

36  bushels =  1  chaldron. 

bu.        pk.  qt.  pt. 

1    =    4    =    32    =    64 

1    =      8    =    16 

1=2 

Liquid    Measure. 

4  gills =  1  pint. 

2  pints =  1  quart. 

4  quarts =1  gallon. 

313^  gallons =  1  barrel. 

2  barrels  or  63  gallons =1  hogshead. 

gal.  qt.  pt.  gi. 

1    =    4    =    8    =    32 

1    =    2=8 

1=4 

Apothecaries'  Fluid  Measure. 

60  minims =  1  fluidrachm. 

8  fluidrams .    .  =  1  fluidounce. 

16  fluidounces =  1  pint. 

8  pints =1  gallon. 

(123) 


124  ^^^  Horticulturist's  Rule- Book. 

Apothecaries'  Fluid  Measure,  continued. 

cong.         o.              f.                  f.  m. 

1    =     8    =     128    =     1,024  =  61,440 

1    =      16    =        128  =  7,680 

1    =           8  =  480 

1  =  60 

One  minim  equals  1  drop  of  water. 

Line  or  Linear  Measure. 

12  inches =  1  foot. 

3  feet =1  yard. 

h}i  yards,  or  16>^  feet =1  rod,  or  pole. 

40  rods =  1  furlong. 

8  furlongs  (320  rods) =  1  mile  (statute  mile) 

3  miles =1  league. 

1.           mi.           fur.            rd.                >d.  ft.  in. 

1    =    3    =    24    =    960    =    5,280  =  15,840  =  190,080 

1    =      8    =    320    =    1,760  =  5.280  =  63,360 

1    =      40    =       220  =  660  =  7,920 

1    =           5K  -  16>i  =  198 

1  =  3  =  36 

1  =  12 

Surveyors'  or  Chain   Measure. 

7.92  inches =  1  link. 

25       links =1  rod  or  pole. 

4  rods,  or  66  feet =  1  chain. 

80       chains =  1  mile. 

mi.           ch.            rd.                 1.  in. 

1    =    80    =    320    =    8,000  =  63,360 

1    =        4     =        100  =  792 

1     =          25  =  198 

1  =  7.92 

Square  or   Surface  Measure. 

144     square  inches =1  square  foot. 

9  .  square  feet =1  square  yard. 

30):^  square  yards =  1  sq.  rod  or  perch. 

160     square  rods =1  acre. 

640     acres =  1  sq.  mile  or  section. 


Tables  of  Measures  a?id    Weights.  125 

Square  or  Surface  Measure,  continued. 

sq  m.     a.            sq.  rd.             sq.  yd.                    sq.ft.  sq.  in. 

1  =  G4U  =  102,400  =  3,097,600   —  27,878,400  =  4,014,489,600 

1  =    160  =    4,840   =    43,560  =  6,272,640 

1  =      30)4  =      272}.^  =  39,204 

1   —       9  =  1,296 

1  =  144 

Surveyors*  Square  Measure. 

625  square  links =  1  square  rod,  or  pole. 

16  poles ^1  square  chain. 

10  square  chains =  1  acre. 

640  acres .....  =  1  square  mile  or  sec. 

36  square  miles  (6  miles  sq.)    .  .   .  =  1  township, 
tp.     sq.  mi.        a.  sq.  ch.  sq.  rd.  sq.  1. 

1  =  36  =  23,040  =-  230,400  =-  3,686,400  =  2,304,000,000 

Solid  or  Cubic  Measure. 

1728     cubic  inches =  1  cubic  foot. 

27     cubic  feet =  1  cubic  yard. 

16     cubic  feet =1  cord  foot. 

8     cord  feet,  or  128  cubic  feet    .   .   .  =  1  cord  of  wood. 

24%  cubic  feet —  1  perch. 

ru.  yd.    cu.  ft.  cu.in.  cd.       cd.  ft.        cu.  ft.  cu.  in 

1    ==     27    ==    46,656    =     1    =    8    =     128    =    221,184. 

Avoirdupois,  or  Commercial  Weight. 

27^1  grains =1  dram. 

16      drams =  1  ounce. 

16      ounces =  1  pound. 

25      pounds =  1  quarter. 

4      quarters,  or  100  pounds    .   .  .  .  =  1  hundredweight. 
20      hundredweight,  or  2,000  lbs .    .  =  1  ton. 

480      pounds =  1  imperial  quarter. 

100      pounds  is  also  called 1  central. 

t.  cwt.  lb.  oz.  dr.  gr. 

1    =    20    =    2,000    =     32,000    —    512,000 
1    =        100    =      1,600    =      25,600 

1     =_-  16    =  256    =    7,000 

1    =  16    -=    4,375 


126  The  HorticulturisV s  Rule- Book. 

Troy,  or  Jewelers'  Weight. 

24  grains =  1  pennyweight. 

20  pennyweights =  1  ounce. 

12  ounces =-1  pound. 

lb.  oz.  pwt.  gr. 

1    =    12    =    240    =    5,760 
1    =      20    —       480 
1    =  24 

Apothecaries'  Weight. 

20  grains  ....       —  1  scruple. 

3  scruples =  1  dram. 

8  drams =  1  ounce. 

12  ounces =  1  pound. 

lb.           oz.            dr.            scr.  gr. 

1    =    12    =    96    =    288    =  5,760 

1    _=      8    =      24    =  480 

1=3=  60 

1    =  20 

Table  of  Comparative  Weights. 

Avoirdupois.  Troy.  Apothecaries'. 

7,000  gr.     =  1  lb.     5,760    gr.  =  1  lb.     5,760    gr.  =  1  lb. 

lib.  =        lyV^ibs.        =        IxV^lbs. 

or  144  lbs.  =    175        lbs.        =    175        lbs. 

loz.  =  xlf  oz.        =         \W  oz. 

or  192  oz.  =     175  oz.         =     175  oz. 

Miscellaneous  Tables. 

jV  of  an  inch =  a  line  (American) . 

iV  of  an  inch =- a  line  (French) . 

3  inches =  a  palm. 

4  inches ==  a  hand. 

9  inches =  a  span. 

IS  inches =  a  cubit. 

2X  feet  .   .  • =  a  military  pace. 

3      feet =  a  pace. 

A  wino  gaUon —  231     cubic  inches. 

A  dry  gallon =  268.8 


Tables  of  Measures  and   Weights.  127 

Miscellaneous  Tables,  continued. 

An  imperial  gallon =    277.274  cubic  inches. 

A  U.  S.  bushel =2,150.42 

A  U.  S.  bushel  heaped =2,G88 

An  English  bushel =2,218.192 

1  pint  of  water  weighs  1.0431  lbs. 

I  gallon  of  water  weighs  8.3450  lbs. 

1  cubic  foot  of  water  weighs  62.425  lbs.  at  39.2°  F. 

An  English  (statute)  mile  is    ...    .  1,760  yards. 

A  Scotch  mile  is 1,984      " 

An  Irish  mile  is 2,240      " 

A  Dutch  mile  is 8,101      " 

A  Roman  mile  is 1,628      " 

A  German  mile  is 6,859      " 

A  Russian  mile  is 1,100      '' 

An  Arabian  mile  is 2,148      " 

A  sea  (nautical)  mile  is 2,026      " 

Equivalents  of  Metric  IMeasures  of  Capacity. 

Metric  denominations.  Dry  measure.               Liquid  measure. 

1  minuter  .   .   .  =  .001816  pts.  =          .0338      fl.oz. 

1  centiliter    .   .  =  .01816    pts.  =          .338        fl.oz. 

1  deciliter..      =  .181625  pts.  =          .84539    gi. 

1  liter =  .908128  qts.  =        1.056745  qts. 

1  decaliter    .   .  =  9.08128    qts.  =        2.64186   gals. 

1  hectoliter  .    .  =  2.8379     bus.  =      26.4186     gals. 

Ikiloliter  .  .   .=  28.379       bus.  =    264.186       gals. 

1  myrialiter  .  .  =  283.79         bus.  =  2641.86         gals. 

Equivalents  of  IMetric  Linear  IMeasure. 

Equivalents  in  English 
measure. 

1  millimeter =      .03937  inches. 

1  centimeter =      .3937        " 

1  decimeter =    3.93707      " 

1  meter =  39.37079      •' 

1  decameter =  32.80899  ft. 

1  hectometer      =  19.88423  rods. 

1  kilometer =      .62138  mile. 

1  myriameter =^    6.21382  miles. 


128 


The  HorticidtitrisV  s  Rule-Book. 


Equivalents  of  Metric  Square   Measure. 

1  sq.  centimeter =        .155      sq.  in. 

1  sq.  decimeter =    15.5  sq.  in. 

1  sq.  meter =      1.19603  sq.  yds. 

1  sq.  decameter =  119.6034    sq.  yds. 

1  sq.  hectometer =      2.47114  sq.  rds. 

1  sq.  kilometer =         .3861    sq.  miles. 

Equivalents  of  Metric  Cubic  Measure. 

1  cu.  centimeter =      .061027  cu.  in. 

1  cu.  decimeter =  61.02705    cu.  in. 

1  cu.  meter,  or  stere =  35.31658    cu.  ft. 

Equivalents  of  Metric  Weights. 

1  miligram =  .015432  gr.  troy. 

1  centigi-am =  .15432   gr.  troy. 

1  decigram =        1.54324    gr.  troy. 

1  gram =      15.43248   gr.  troy. 

1  decagram =  .35273    oz.  avoir. 

1  hectogram =        3.52739    oz.  avoir. 

1  kilogram =        2.20462    lbs.  avoir. 

1  myriagram =      22.04621    lbs.  avoir. 

1  quintal ^    220.46212    lbs.  avoir. 

1  tonneau  or  ton =  2204.62124   lbs.  avoir., or 

1.10281  tons. 


•»-^*;^M^5*;?-*-J5l  ^••»-^»*^»*^5^-*- 


The  works  of  a  person  that  huilds,  begin  immediaie/jy 
to  decay;  while  those  of  him  who  plants  begin  direct/jy 
i )  improve. 

—WILLIAM   ShENSTONE,  1764. 


CHAPTER   XV. 


Miscellaneous  Tables,   Figures  and  Notes. 

1.  Quantity  of  Water  Held   by  Pipes  of  Various  Sizes. 

Diameter  of  Contents  of  loo  Feci 

Bore.  in  Length. 

%  ill 84  gals. 

1  " 3.39  " 

IK  " 7.64  ■" 

2  "... 18.58  " 

2K  " 21.22  " 

3  " 30.56  " 

4  " 54.33  " 

5  " 84.90  " 

6  " 122.26  " 

2.  Number  of  Gallons  in  Circular  Tanks  and  Wells. 

To  find  the  contents  in  gallons  of  circular  tanks,  etc.,  square 
the  diameter  in  feet,  multiply  by  the  depth,  and  then  multiply 
by  5  875. 

GALLONS  WHEN   THE   DEPTH    IS 

10  ft.  H/t.  13  ft. 

940.00  1034.00  1128.00 

i46rf.76  1615.63  1762.50 

2115.00  2326.50  2538.00 

2878.76  3166.63  3454.50 

3760.00  4136.00  4512.00 

4758.76  5234-63  5710-52 

5875.04  6461.52  7050.00 

7108.76  7819.43  8530.52 

8460.00  9306.00  10152.00 

(129) 


Uian. 
eter. 

■  3  ft. 

4ft. 

5  ft. 

6ft. 

7ft. 

8ft. 

gft. 

4  ft. 

282.00 

376.00 

470.00 

564.00 

658.00 

752.00 

846.00 

5  " 

440.63 

587.50 

734.38 

881.25 

1028.13 

1175.00 

1321-89 

6  " 

63450 

846.90 

1057-50 

1269.00 

1480.50 

1692.00 

1903.50 

7  " 

863-63 

1151.50 

1439-38 

1727.25 

2015.13 

2303.00 

2590.89 

8  •• 

1128.00 

1504.00 

1880.00 

2256.00 

2632.00 

3008.00 

3384-00 

9  " 

1427.63 

1903-50 

2379-38 

2855.26 

3331-13 

3806.00 

4282.89 

10  " 

1762.52 

2350.00 

2937-52 

3525.00 

4112.52 

4700.00 

5287.56 

11  '• 

2132.63 

2843.50 

3554-38 

4265.26 

4976.12 

5687.00 

6397.89 

12  " 

2538.00 

3384-00 

4230.00 

5076.00 

5922.00 

6768.00 

7614.00 

130  The  Horticulturisf  s   Rule-Book. 

3.     Number  of  Gallons  in  Square-Built  Tanks. 

To  find  the  number  of  gallons  in  any  square  or  oblong  vessel 
multiply  the  number  of  cubic  feet  contained  in  it  by  7.4805. 

Size  of  Tank.  j  ft.  4  ft.  5  ft. 

deep.  deep.  deep. 

6  by  3  feet 403.9  538.5  673.2 

6  "  4  "   538.5  718.0  897.6 

6  "  5  "   673.3  897.6  1122.0 

6  "  6  "   807.8  1077.1  1346.4 

7  "  4  "   628.3  837.7  1047.2 

7  •'  5  "   785.4  1047.2  1309.0 

7  "  6  "   942.4  1256.6  1570.8 

7  •'  7  "   1099.5  1466.0  1832.6 

8  "  4  "    717.0  957.4  1196.8 

8  "  5  "   897.6  1196.8  1496.0 

8  "  6  "   1077.1  1436.1  .  1683.0 

8  "  7  "   .  . 1256.6  1675.5  2094.4 

8  "  8  "   1436.1  1914.8  2393.6 

9  "  5  "   1009.8  1346.4  1683.0 

9  '•  6  "   ...   1211.7  1615.6  2019.6 

9  ''  7  ''   1413.7  1884.9  2356.2 

9  "  8  "   1615.6  2154.2  2692.8 

9  "  9  "   1817.6  2423.5  3029.4 

10  "  5  "   1122.0  1496.0  1870.0 

10  ^'  6  "   1346.4  1795.2  2244.0 

10  ''  7  '^   1570.8  2094.4  2618.0 

10  "  8  "   1795.2  2393.6  2992.0 

10  "  9  "   2019.6  2692.8  3366.0 

10  '•  10  "   2244.0  2992.0  3740.0 

11  "  6  "   1481.0  1974.7  2468.4 

11  "  7  "   1727.8  2303.8  2879.8 

11  "  8  "   1974.7  2632.9  3291.2 

11  "  9  "   2221.5  2962.0  3702.6 

11  "  10  "   2468.4  2521.2  4114.0 

11  "  11  "   2715.2  3620.3  4525.4 

12  "  6  "   1660.5  2154.2  2692.8 

12  "  7  "   1884.9  2513,2  2141.6 

12  "  8  "   2154.2  2872.3  a590.4 

12  "  9  ''   2423.5  3231.3  4039.2 

12  "  10  "   2692.8  3590.4  4488.0 

12  "  11  "   2962.0  3949.4  4936.8 

12  ''  12  ''   3231.3  4308.4  5385.6 


Miscellaneous   Tables,   Figures  and  Notes.      131 

4.     Thcrmomster  Scales. 

Fahrenheit.— The  freezing-point  is  taken  as  the  32d.  degree  of 
the  scale,  and  180  degrees  are  made  between  that  and  the  boilings 
point,  which  therefore  becomes  212°. 

Centigrade  or  Celsius.— The  freezing-point  of  water  is  taken  as 
zaro,  and  boiling-point  as  100°. 

Reaumur.— The  freezing-point  of  water  is  taken  as  zero,  the 
boiling-point  as  80°. 

A  degree  Centigrade  is  therefore  greater  than  a  degree  of 
Fahrenheit  as  nine  is  greater  than  five ;  and  a  degree  of  Reau- 
mur is  greater,  as  nine  is  greater  than  four. 

To  reduce  Fahrenheit  degrees  to  Centigrade,  subtract  32  from 
the  given  degree  of  Fahrenheit  and  multiply  the  remainder  by  5 
and  divide  it  by  9:  (F.°— 32)  f 

To  reduce  Centigrade  to  Fahrenheit,  multiply  the  given  degree 
of  Centigrade  by  9  and  divide  the  product  by  5,  then  to  the  quo- 
tient add  32:   (fC.°-|-32). 

To  reduce  Fahrenheit  to  Reaumur,  subtract  32  from  the  given 
degree  of  Fahrenheit  and  multiply  the  remainder  by  4  and  divide 
by  9:  (F.°— 32)|. 

To  reduce  Reaumur  to  Fahrenheit,  multiply  the  given  degree  of 
Reaumur  by  9  and  divide  by  4,  then  add  32 :   (|R.°  -|-  32) . 

5.     Effects  of  Wind  in  Cooling  Glass. 


{Jjeuclxars.) 


Velocity  of  I  Vinci 
per  hour. 

minutes 


Time  required  to  lower  Temperature 
front  120  to  100  Fahr. 


5.18    "        

2-16        " 

6.54    "        

.    . 1:91        " 

8.86    "        

.   .    .   .                      1-66        " 

10.90    "        

1:50        " 

13.36     "        ... 
17.97     "        

1:25 

1-08        " 

20.45     "        

1:00 

24.54    " 

•91         " 

27.27    "        

:81        " 

132  The  Horticulturist' s  Rule-Book. 

6.  Per  Cent,  of  Rays  of  Lignt  Reflected  from   Glass  Roofs  at 
Various  Angles  of  Divergence  from  the   Perpendicular. 

(Bouguer. ) 

1° 2.5  per  cent. 

10° 2.5 

20° 2.5 

30° 2.7 

40° 3.4 

50° 0.7 

60°  . 11.3 

70° 32.2 

80° 41.2 

85° 54.3 

7.  Area   of  Glass  in  Various  States  and   Provinces,   used  for 

Commercial  Greenhouse  Purposes. 

(Stewai-t.) 

Glass  in  use  , INCREASE  IN  1887 ^ 

previous  For  ciit-  For  Total 

to  i8Sj.  flowers.  plants.        increase. 

Alabama 50,000  3,000  6,780  9,780 

Arkansas  .    .    .' 14,474  8,188  4,150  12,338 

California 213,660  59,810  32,200  92,010 

Connecticut 35,071  17,551  52,622 

Delaware 79,100  .  .   .  3,000  3,000 

District  of  Columbia       .    .     125,000  37,100  4,000  41,000 

Florida 20,000  20,000  10,000  30,000 

Georgia 33,100  2,400  500  2,900 

Illinois 1,422,533  12,676  36,824  99,500 

Indiana 142,866  20,575  23,240  43,815 

Iowa 125,580  27,900  13,110  41,010 

Kansas 31,600  1,800  2,250  4,060 

Kentucky 320,400  

Louisiana 24,420  11,400     '    7,600  19,000 

Maine 102,033  19,130  4,000  23,130 

Maryland 185,526  29,908  ....  29.908 

Massacbusetls 1,375,000  53,000  ...  53,000 

Minnesota 138,500  22,600  •  5,600  28,200 

New  Hampshire 86,450  11,825  3,275  15,100 

New  Jersey 2,114,245  297,529  59,504  357,033 


Miscellaneous   Tables,  Fij^ii^-es  and  Notes.     133 
Area  of  Glass  for  Commercial  Greenhouse  Purposes,  continued. 

Glass  in  use  , INCREASE   IN   1887 s 

previous  For  cut-               For                  Total 

to  1&87.  floTvers.            plants.        increase. 

New  York 1,412,500  60,700        19,250        79,'.t50 

North  Carolina 15,400  1,500         4,500         6,000 

Ohio 1,378,929  67,000        50,230      117,230 

Pennsylvania 1,315,240  183,050        83,576      266,626 

Rhode  Island 93,771  13,918          1,000        14,918 

South  Carolina 3,300  3,825         .   .   .           3,825 

Tennessee 62,200  9,636          6,500        16,136 

Texas 18,600  3,800         5,980         9,780 

Vermont       37,950  7,700         7,200        14.900 

Virginia 53,868  15,240         5,200        10,040 

West  Virginia 19,800         

Wisconsin 148,230  24,806          3,127        27,933 

Ontario 176,498         61,500 

Quebec 103,696  12,790          8,577        21,367 


8.     National  and   Party  Flowers. 

Canada Sugar-Maple. 

China Narcissus. 

Egypt Lotus  (Nymphcea  Lotus). 

England Rose. 

France Fleur-de-lis  (Iris). 

Germany • .  Corn-^ower  (Centaurea  Cyanus) . 

Greece  (Athens)    .   .    .  Violet. 

Ireland Shamrock   (TrifoUum,  usually 

T.  repens). 

Italy Lily. 

Japan Chrysanthemum. 

Prussia Linden. 

Saxony  .......  Mignonette. 

Scotland Thistle. 

Spain Pomegranate. 

Wales Leek. 


Beaconsfield's  followers Primrose. 

Bonapartists Violet. 


134  T^J^^  Horticultu7'isf  s  Rule- Book. 

Wational  and  Party  Flowers,  continued. 

Ghibellines White  lily. 

Giielphs Red  lily. 

Prince  of  Orange The  orange. 

g.     Dates  at  which  Various  Fruits  and   Nuts  Appear  In  North- 
ern  Markets. 

{From  New  England  Grocer.) 

Nuts.— Peanuts,  about  the  first  of  November. 

Walnuts— French,  Naples  and  Grenoble— about  the  middle  of 
November. 

Pecans,  about  the  same  time  as  walnuts. 

Filberts,  about  the  first  of  November. 

Castanas,  early  in  March. 

Almonds,  shelled  about  October  first,  and  Ivica  and  Princess 
about  forty-five  days  later. 

Shellbarks,  October  first. 

Baracoa  cocoanuts  begin  to  come  during  the  latter  part  of  March 
and  the  first  of  April. 

Chestnuts,  late  in  September. 

Dried  Fruits.— Citron  (Leghorn),  October  first. 

Currants,  the  middle  of  October. 

Dates,  Fard  about  the  middle  of  November,  and  Persian  about 
December  13. 

Prunes,  French,  about  the  middle  of  October,  and  Turkish  a 
month  or  so  later. 

Raisins,  Malaga  fruit — which  includes  loose  Muscatels,  2,  3,  4 
and  6-crown,  and  Imperial  Cabinet  laj'ers,  B.  B.,  Empire  Cluster? 
Royal  and  Imperial— begin  to  put  in  appearance  about  the  first  of 
November.  California  raisins  begin  to  come  early  in  October. 
Sultana  raisins  are  due  about  October  first,  and  New  Valencias 
about  the  same  time. 

Foreign  Green  Fruit.— Oranges— Messina,  Valencia  and 
Palermo,  and  ail  Mediterranean  fruit,  earlj^  in  December. 

Florida  oranges  generally  begin  to  arrive  the  first  of  November. 
Jamaicas  get  here  the  middle  of  September. 

Lemons— Messina,  Valencia  and  Palermo,  and  all  Mediterra- 
nean fruit.  December  first. 


Miscellaneous   Tables,  Figures  and  Notes.      135 

Dates  Fruits  and  Nuts  Appear  in  Northern  Markets,  continued. 

Aspinwall,  Cuban,  Jamaica  and  Baracoa  bananas  come  the 
year  round,  every  month  in  the  year,  and  about  every  day  in  the 
month  a  portion  of  the  time — certainly  every  week  in  eacli  month. 

Pineapples,  mostly  Havanas,  come  whenever  there  is  a  demand 
for  them,  the  year  round.  Florida  pines  come  during  the  latter 
part  of  May  and  the  first  of  June. 

Grapes,  Malagas,  are  due  about  October  first. 

New  figs  begin  to  come  along  about  the  same  time. 

Domestic  Green  Fruit. — Apples,  new,  early  in  August. 
Russets  generally  make  their  appearance  upon  the  market  early 
in  the  winter,  and  Gi*avensteins  in  December. 

Pears,  September. 

Peaches,  Jersey,  latter  part  of  August  and  eai'ly  in  September. 
Delawares  early  in  August. 

Plums,  all  along  from  August  first  to  the  middle  of  November. 

Grapes,  Hamburgs,  are  in  the  market  about  all  the  year  round, 
gave,  perhaps,  three  or  four  months.  Gatawbas  arrive  about  the 
middle  of  August,  and  Ives  about  the  same  time. 

Berries.  Blueberries,  usually  in  July.  Blackberries  are  liable 
to  arrive  any  time  in  June. 

Watermelons  are  with  us  fi'om  the  first  of  June  to  the  first  of 
September. 

Cantaloupes.     Early  in  July,  lasting  about  three  months. 

10.     What  Constitutes  Wholesale  Quantities. 

The  wholesale  fruit-dealers  of  Washington,  D.  C,  have  adopted 
the  following  rules  to  govern  the  least  quantities  of  fruits  to  be 
sold  at  wholesale  rates : 

Banaxas. — Not  less  than  one  bunch. 

Apples. — Not  less  than  one  barrel  or  box  as  received ;  no  pack- 
ages to  be  broken. 

Pineapples.— Not  less  than  twenty-five. 

Oranges.— Not  less  than  one  box ;  no  packages  to  be  broken. 

Lemons. — Not  less  than  one  box ;  no  packages  to  be  broken. 

Grapes  of  all  kinds. — Not  less  than  five  baskets. 

Malaga  Grapes. — By  the  keg  only. 

Peaches. — Not  less  than  one  box  or  one-bushel  crate,  or  not 
less  than  five  baskets ;  no  packages  to  be  broken.  If  in  half- 
bushel  lots,  not  less  than  two. 


136  The  HorticulturisV s  Ride- Book. 

What  Constitutes  Wholesale  Quantities,  continued. 

Pears.— One  box  or  barrel;  if  in  baskets,  not  less  than  five. 

Watermelons. — Not  less  than  twenty-five. 

MusKMELONs. — Not  less  than  twenty-five. 

Strawberries  and  all  other  Berries. — Not  less  than  a 
thirty-two  quart  crate,  unless  small  quantity  received.  A  sixty- 
quart  crate  may  be  halved.  An  exception  made  with  raspberries : 
not  less  than  fifteen  quarts.  In  February  and  March,  straw- 
berries, not  less  than  fifteen  quarts. 

II.     Average  Price  in  France  of  Various  Orchid  Flowers. 

(Orc7iidop7jiZe.) 

From  20  to  25  centimes* :     Dendrohmm  nobile,  TTcwdiL 

30  centimes :  Cyptnpedium  insigne,  Masdevallia  Lindeni  Harryana, 
ignea,  Veitchii,  Odontoglossum  Pescatorci,  Rossi. 

From  30  to  CO  centimes:  Odontoglossum  crispum  (Alcxandrce) , 
triumphans,  luteo-purpurcum,  Schlieperianum,  Insleayi  Cattleya 
amethystma,  SMnncri. 

From  60  to  75  centimes:  Cypripedium  villosiim,  Harrisianum 
Spicerianum,  Boxalli. 

From  1  franc  to  1  franc  and  25  centimes :  Odontoglossum  grande, 
Lycaste  Skinneri  (price  sometimes  as  low  as  50  centimes), 
Ccelogyne  cristata  (per  truss) ,  Cattleya  labiata,  Mossice,  Percivaliana, 
Gaskeliana,  Perrini,  PinclU,  elegans,  Triance. 

From  1  franc  and  50  centimes  to  2  francs :  Various  Vandas, 
Cattleya  Domiana. 

Trusses  of  Acrides  and  Saccolahium  sell  from  a  franc  and  a 
half  to  3  francs,  or  even  for  5  francs  for  extra-good  specimens. 

la.     Weights  of  Various  Varieties  of  Apples  per  Bushel. 

The  following  varieties,  just  from  the  trees  in  October,  gave 
the  following  weights : 


Pounds 

Baldwin 50 

Belmont "'O 

Ben  Davis -IT 

Bunker  Hill 19 

Cabashae  57 

Esopus  Spitzenburg    .    .    .    .  44 


Pounds 

Fallawater ".    .  .   .48 

Golden  Russet 53 

Lawver 47 

Nickajack 51 

Northern  Spy 46 

Pennock 47 


*  A  centime  is  about  one-fifth  of  a  cent,  and  a  franc  is  about  20  cents. 


Miscellaneous   Tables,  Figures  and  Notes.      137 


Weights  of  Various  Varieties  of  Apples,  continued. 


Pounds 

Rambo 50 

Rhode  Island  Greening  ...  52 
Roxbury  Russet  ...    ...  50 

Rubicon 46 

Stark      56 


Pounds 

Swaar 51 

Sweet  Bough 39 

Talman  Sweet 48 

Tompkins  King 44 

YeUow  Bellefleur 46 


■  S.     Various   Recipes  and   Rusle. 

Black  ink  for  zinc  labels. — Verdigi'is,  1  ounce ;  sal  ammoniac,  l\ 
ounce ;  lamp-black,  X  ounce ;  rain  water,  }4  pint.  Mix  in  an 
earthenware  mortar  or  jar  and  put  up  in  small  bottles.  To  be 
shaken  before  use  and  used  with  a  clean  quill  pen  on  bright  zinc. 

To  keep  flower-pots  clean. — When  the  pots  are  cleaned,  soak 
them  a  few  hours  in  ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper  (recipe, 
p.  40.)     Soak  them  about  once  a  year. 

To  prevent  boilers  from  filling  with  sediment  or  scale.— 1.  Ex- 
ercise care  to  get  clean  water  and  that  which  contains  little  lime. 
2.  Blow  it  out  often.  It  can  be  blown  out  a  little  everj^  day,  and 
occasionally  it  should  be  blown  off  entirely.  3.  Put  slippery-elm 
bark  in  the  boiler  tank.  Or,  if  slippery-elm  is  not  handy,  use 
potato-peelings,  flax-seed,  oak-bark,  spent  tan  or  coarse  sawdust. 
4.  Put  in,  with  the  feed-water  or  otherwise,  a  small  quantity  of 
good  molasses  (not  a  chemical  syrup),  say  }4,  Pt-  to  1  pt.  in  a 
week,  depending  upon  the  size  of  boiler.  This  will  remove  and 
prevent  incrustation  without  damage  to  the  boiler.  These  vege- 
table substances  prevent  in  a  measure,  by  mechanical  means, 
I  he  union  of  the  particles  of  lime  into  incrustations. 

Cutting  glass  bottles. — 1.  Pass  5  or  6  strands  of  coarse  packing- 
twine  round  the  bottle  on  each  side  of  where  yon  want  it  divided, 
so  as  to  form  a  groove  )g  inch  wide ;  in  this  groove  pass  one  turn 
of  a  piece  of  hard-laid  white  cord,  extend  the  two  ends  and  fasten 
to  some  support.  Saw  the  bottle  backwards  and  forwards  for 
a  short  time ;  after  a  minute's  friction,  by  a  side  motion  of  the 
bottle  throw  it  out  of  the  cord  into  a  tub  of  water,  and  then  tap 
on  the  side  of  the  tub  and  the  bottom  will  fall  off. 

2.  Fill  the  bottle  the  exact  height  you  wish  it  to  be  cut,  with 
oil  of  any  kind ;  dip,  very  graduallj^,  a  red-hot  iron  into  the  oil. 
The  glass  suddenlj--  chips  and  cracks  all  round,  then  the  upper 
surface  may  be  lifted  off  at  the  surface  of  the  oil. 


138  The  HorticicUiirisf  s  Rule- Book. 

Various  Recipes  and  Rules,  continued. 

3.  For  cutting  off  bottoms  of  bottles,  make  a  slight  nick  with  a 
file,  and  then  mark  round  Avith  a  streak  of  ink  -where  you  want 
it  to  come  off.  Make  an  iron  red-hot  and  lay  it  on  the  nick. 
This  will  cause  it  to  expand  and  crack,  then  by  moving  the  rod 
round,  the  crack  will  follow. 

To  preserve  wooden  labels. — Thoroughly  soak  the  pieces  of 
wood  in  a  strong  solution  of  copperas  (sulphate  of  iron) ;  then 
lay  them,  after  they  are  dry,  in  lime-water.  This  causes  the 
formation  of  sulphate  of  lime,  a  very  insoluble  salt,  in  the  wood. 

Liquid  putty  for  glazing.— Take  equal  parts,  by  measure,  of 
boiled  oil,  putty  and  white  lead.  Mix  the  putty  and  oil,  then 
add  the  white  lead.  If  the  mixture  becomes  too  thick,  add 
turpentine.    Apply  with  a  putty-bulb. 

To  prepare  paper  and  cloth  for  hotbed  sash. — 1.  Use  a  sash  with- 
out bars,  and  stretch  wires  or  strings  across  it  to  secure  as  a 
rest  for  the  paper.  Procure  stout  but  thin  manila  wrapping- 
paper,  and  paste  it  firmly  on  the  sash  with  fresh  flour  paste. 
Dry  in  a  warm  place  and  then  wipe  the  paper  with  a  damp 
sponge  to  cause  it  to  stretch  evenly.  Dry  again  and  then  apply 
boiled  linseed-oil  to  both  sides  of  the  paper,  and  dry  again  in  a 
warm  place. 

2.  Saturate  cloth  or  tough  thin  manila  paper  with  pure  raw 
linseed-oil. 

3.  Dissolve  \%  lbs.  white  soap  in  1  qt.  water;  in  another  quart 
dissolve  1>^  oz.  gum  arable  and  5  ozs.  glue.  Mix  the  two  liquids, 
warm  and  soak  the  paper,  hanging  it  up  to  dry.  Used  mostly 
for  paper. 

4.  3  pts.  pale  linseed-oil ;  1  oz.  sugar  of  lead ;  4  ozs.  white  rosin. 
Grind  and  mix  the  sugar  of  lead  in  a  little  oil,  then  add  the  other 
materials  and  heat  in  an  iron  kettle.  Apply  hot  with  a  brush. 
Used  for  muslin. 

Waterproof  paper.— Waterpx'oof  paper,  transparent  and  imper- 
vious to  grease,  is  obtained  by  soaking  good  paper  in  an  aqueous 
solution  of  shellac  and  borax.  It  resembles  parchment  paper  in 
some  respects.  If  the  aqueous  solution  be  colored  with  aniline 
colors,  very  handsome  paper,  of  use  for  artificial  flowers,  is  pre- 
pared. 


Miscellaneous   Tables,  Figures  and  Notes.      139 

Various  Recipes  and  Rules,  continued. 

Cow-duug  is  highly  prized  by  many  gardeners  for  use  in  potting 
soil.  It  is  stored  under  cover  and  allowed  to  remain  until  dry, 
being  turned  several  times  in  the  meantime  to  pulverize  it. 
Manure-water  is  made  either  from  this  dried  excrement,  or  from 
the  fresh  material.  When  made  from  the  fresh  material,  the 
manure-water  should  be  made  weaker  than  in  the  other  case. 

To  find  the  bushels  of  shelled  corn  in  a  crib  or  bin  of  corn  in  the 
ear,  divide  the  cubic  contents  by  2. 

To  find  the  number  of  bushels  of  potatoes,  apples,  etc.,  in  a  bin, 
multiply  the  cubic  contents  by  8  and  point  off  one  figure  in  the 
product. 

To  find  the  tons  of  hay  in  a  mow  or  stack,  divide  the  cubic 
contents  by  about  510.  if  the  hay  is  not  well  settled,  or  by  about 
4fi0  if  the  hay  is  well  packed. 

Aproximate  value  of  household  measures: 
1  teaspoonful  equals  1  dram. 
1  dessertspoonful  equals  2  teaspoonfuls,  or  2  drams. 

1  tablespoonful  equals  2  dessertspoonfuls,  or  4  teaspoonfuls. 

2  tables poonfuls  equal  8  teaspoonfuls,  or  1  ounce. 

1  common  size  wineglass  ful  equals  2  ounces,  or  3^  gill. 

A  tea-cup  is  estimated  to  hold  4  fluidounces,  or  1  gill. 

1  pound  of  wheat  is  equal  to  about  1  quart. 

1  pound  and  2  ounces  of  Indian  meal  is  equal  to  1  quart. 

1  pound  of  soft  butter  is  equal  to  about  1  pint. 

1  pound  of  sugar  is  equal  tc  about  1  pint. 

14.     Various  Figures. 

From  7  to  12  bushels  of  apples  are  required  for  a  barrel  of 
cider. 

A  bushel  of  average  apples  gives  from  6  to  7  pounds  of  evapor- 
ated product. 

Product  of  Dried  Raspberries  (W.  J.  Green) : 

Ohio 9     lbs.  to  the  bushel. 

Gregg 8X    " 

Hilborn 8K    "  " 

Ada 8X    " 

Tyler 8^    " 

Shaffer 8       "  " 


140 


The  Horticultiirisf  s  Rule- Book. 


Various  Figures,  continued. 

Raspberries  contain  from  ly^  to  3  lbs.  of  seeds  to  the  bushel. 

A  pint  of  garden  blackberries  weighs  about  one  pound. 

Good  clusters  of  American  grapes  weigh  on  an  average  from 
one-half  to  three-fourths  pounds,  while  extra-good  clusters  will 
reach  a  pound  and  a  half.  Clusters  have  been  reported  which 
weighed  two  pounds. 

A  bushel  of  sweet-corn  ears,  "in  the  milk,"  with  the  husks 
which  come  from  it,  Aveighs  from  50  to  70  lbs. 

There  are  about  5,000  honey-bees  in  a  pound. 

Samples  of  Dates  ox  the  Title-Pages  of  Old  Books. 


Iq is  .    500 

Mcccclxjij is  .  1463 

MccccLiXXZ    ...  .    .  1472 

Mcccc7z 1472 

Mcccc.  II 1472 

Mccccxxc 14b0 

MCCCCiiijXXVIII     .   .    .  1488 
Miiiic  iiii  x  Vlij    .    .       .   .  1488 

MOD  XCV 1495 

M.  YD 1495 

MiiijD 1496 

MjjjD 1497 

MIII.D 1497 

MCCCCXCviii 1498 

MID 1499 

McdXciX 1499 

MccccID 1499 

MCCCCXCYiiij 1499 

MCDXCIX 1499 

M  cccc  iCi 1500 

MD 1500 

MCDCII 1502 


M.DXLIX 1549 

MIoL  or  MDL 1550 

M.D.YIL 1554 

00  DLXYI 1566 

00  DLXX 1570 

CIqIoL  XXVI 1576 

cIoIoLXXX 1580 

ClQloXXC 1580 

CIoIoXXCI 1581 

00  DXXCII 1582 

MCCCCCLXXXIII  ....  1583 

cic  10  xxcvl 1586 

00  D  XXCnX 1588 

OlCIo  XX  CIIX 1588 

Mdxc 1590 

CIoIqCC 1700 

CIoIoCCL.CIoDCCL  .    .  1750 

ClQ-IoCCIXCI 1791 

CIoIoCCC 1800 

MDCCC 1800 

cIc.  loccc 1800 


CHAPTER   XVL 


Rules. 

I.     Loudon's  Rules  of  Horticulture. 

1.  Perform  every  operation  in  the  proper  season  and  in  llio 
best  manner. 

2.  Complete  every  operation  consecutively. 

3.  Never,  if  possible,  perform  one  operation  in  such  a  manner 
as  to  render  another  necessary. 

4.  When  called  off  from  any  operation,  leave  your  work  and 
tools  in  an  orderly  manner. 

5.  In  leaving  off  work,  make  a  temporary  finish,  and  clean 
your  tools  and  carry  them  to  the  tool-house. 

6.  Never  do  that  in  the  garden  or  hothouses,  which  can  be 
c(iually  well  done  in  the  reserve  ground  or  in  the  back  sheds. 

7.  Never  pass  a  weed  or  an  insect  without  pulling  it  up  or  tak. 
ing  it  off,  unless  time  forbid. 

8.  In  gathering  a  crop,  take  away  the  useless  as  well  as  the 
useful  parts. 

9.  Let  no  plant  ripen  seeds,  unless  they  are  wanted  for  some 
purpose,  useful  or  ornamental,  and  remove  all  parts  which  are  in 
a  state  of  decay. 

2.     Rules  of  Nomenclature. 

1.      RULES   FOR   NAMING   FRUITS, 

Adopted  by  the  American  Pomological  Society : 

1.  The  originator  or  introducer  (in  the  order  named)  has  the 
prior  right  to  bestow  a  name  upon  a  new  or  unnamed  fruit. 

2.  The  society  reserves  the  right,  in  case  of  long,  inappro- 
priate, or  otherwise  objectionable  names,  to  shorten,  modify  or 
wholly  change  the  same  when  they  shall  occur  in  its  discussions 
or  reports;  and  also  to  recommend  such  names  for  general 
adoption. 

(141) 


142  The  Horticulturisf  s  Ride- Book. 

Rales  of  Nomenclature,  continued. 

3.  The  names  of  fruit  should,  preferably,  express  as  far  as 
practicable  by  a  single  word  the  characteristics  of  the  variety, 
the  name  of  the  originator,  or  the  place  of  its  origin.  Under  no 
ordinary  circumstances  should  more  than  a  single  word  be  em- 
ployed. 

4.  Should  the  question  of  priority  arise  between  different 
names  for  the  same  variety  of  fruit,  other  circumstances  being 
equal  the  name  first  publicly  bestowed  will  be  given  preference. 

2.       RULES   rOU   NAMING   KITCHEN-GARDEN   VEGETABLES, 

As  adopted  by  the  committee  on  nomenclature  of  the  Association 
of  American  Agricultural  Colleges  and  Experiment  Stations : 

1.  The  name  of  a  variety  shall  consist  of  a  single  word,  or  at 
most  of  two  words.  A  phrase,  descriptive  or  otherwise,  is  never 
allowable ;  as  Vrxde,  of  Italy,  King  of  Mammoths,  Earliest  of  AU. 

2.  The  name  should  not  be  superlative  or  bombastic.  In  par- 
ticular, such  epithets  as  New,  Large,  Giant,  Fine,  Selected,  Im- 
proved, and  the  like,  should  be  omitted.  If  the  grower  or  dealer 
has  a  superior  stock  of  a  variety,  the  fact  should  be  stated  in  the 
description  immediately  after  the  name,  rather  than  as  a  part  of 
the  name  itself;  as,  "  Trophy,  selected  stock." 

3.  If  a  grower  or  dealer  has  secured  a  new  select  strain  of  a 
well-known  variety  it  shall  be  legitimate  for  him  to  use  his  own 
name  in  connection  with  the  established  name  of  the  variety ;  as 
Smith's  Winnigstadt,  Jones''s  Cardinal. 

4.  When  personal  names  are  given  to  varieties,  titles  should  be 
omitted ;  as.  Major,  General,  etc. 

5.  The  term  hybrid  should  not  be  used  except  in  those  rare  in- 
stances in  which  the  variety  is  known  to  be  of  hybrid  origin. 

6.  The  originator  has  the  prior  right  to  name  the  variety,  but 
the  oldest  name  which  conforms  to  these  rules  should  be  adopted. 

7.  This  committee  reserves  the  right,  in  its  own  publications, 
to  revise  objectionable  names  in  conformity  with  these  rules. 

3.      WORK   OF   THE   SOCIETY   OF   AMERICAN   FLORISTS. 

This  society  adopted  a  resolution  demanding  reform  in  names 
of  ornamental  plants,  at  the  meeting  of  1S88,  and  a  committee  was 
appointed.  Definite  reform  has  not  yet  been  inaugurated,  how- 
ever, except  in  matters  of  synonymy. 


Rides.  143 


3.     Rules  for  Exhibition. 

1.      AMERICAN   POMOLOGICAL   SOCIETY   RULES. 

For  Exhibitors. 

1.  A  plate  of  fruit  must  contain  six  specimens— no  more, 
no  less — except  in  the  case  of  single  varieties  not  included  in  col- 
lections. 

2.  To  insure  examination  by  the  proper  committees,  all  fruits 
must  be  correctly  and  distinctly  labeled,  and  placed  upon  the 
tables  during  the  first  day  of  the  exhibition. 

3.  The  duplication  of  varieties  in  a  collection  will  not  be  per- 
mitted. 

4.  In  all  cases  of  fruits  intended  to  be  examined  and  reported 
by  committees,  the  name  of  the  exhibitor,  together  with  a  com- 
plete list  of  the  varieties  exhibited  by  him,  must  be  delivered  to 
the  secretary  of  the  society  on  or  before  the  first  day  of  the  ex- 
hibition. 

5.  The  exhibitor  will  receive  from  the  secretary  an  entry-card 
which  must  be  placed  with  the  exhibit,  when  arranged  for  ex- 
hibition, for  the  guidance  of  committees. 

6.  All  articles  placed  upon  the  tables  for  exhibition  must  re- 
main in  charge  of  the  society  till  the  close  of  the  exhibition,  to  be 
removed  sooner  only  upon  express  permission  of  the  person  or 
persons  in  charge. 

7.  Fruits  or  other  articles  intended  for  testing,  or  to  be  given 
away  to  visitors,  spectators  or  others,  will  be  assigned  a  sepa- 
rate hall,  room  or  tent,  in  which  they  may  be  dispensed  at  the 
pleasure  of  the  exhibitor,  who  will  not,  however,  be  permitted 
to  sell  and  deliver  articles  therein,  or  to  call  attention  to  them 
in  a  boisterous  or  disorderly  manner. 

For  the  Ouidance  of  Examining  and  Awarding  Committees. 

1.  In  estimating  the  comparative  values  of  collections  of  fruits, 
committees  are  instructed  to  base  such  estimates  strictly  upon 
the  varieties  in  such  collections  which  shall  have  been  correctly 
named  by  the  exhibitor  prior  to  action  thereon  by  the  committee 
on  nomenclature. 

2.  In  instituting  such  comparison  of  values,  committees  are  in- 
structed to  consider:  1st,  the  values  of  the  varieties  for  the 


144  '^^^^  HortiadturisV  s  Rule- Book. 

Rules  for  ExhiMtion  (Am.  Pom.  Society),  continued, 
purposes  to  which  they  may  be  adapted ;  2nd,  the  color,  size,  and 
evenness  of  the  specimens ;  3rd,  their  freedom  from  the  marks  of 
insects  and  from  other  blemishes ;  4th, the  apparent  carefulness  in 
handling,  and  the  taste  displayed  in  the  arrangement  of  the  ex- 
hibit. 

2.    MASSACHUSETTS   HORTICULTURAL    SOCIETY   RULES. 

Special  Rules  of  the  Fruit  Committee. — 1.  All  collections  and 
single  dishes  of  fruit  offered  for  prizes  at  any  exhibition  must 
have  marked  upon  the  cards  tlu  numbers  of  the  prizes  for  which  they 
are  offered. 

2.  AH  fruits  offered  for  premiums  must  be  correctly  named. 
Indefinite  appellations,  such  as  "  Pippin,"  "Sweeting,"  "  Green- 
ing," etc.,  will  not  be  considered  as  names. 

3.  All  fruits  offered  for  premiums  must  be  composed  of  exactly 
the  number  of  specimens  or  quantity  named  in  the  schedule.  A 
'•dish"  of  apples,  pears,  peaches,  plums,  nectarines,  quinces, 
figs,  apricots,  etc.,  is  understood  to  contain  twelve  specimens, 
and  this  number  will  be  required  of  all  fruits  when  not  other- 
wise specified. 

4.  The  whole  quantity  required  of  any  one  variety  of  fruit 
must  be  shown  in  a  single  dish  or  basket. 

5.  Contributors  of  fruits  for  exhibitions  or  prizes  must  present 
the  same  in  the  Society's  dishes.  All  small  fruits  must  be  shown 
ia  baskets,  not  more  than  an  inch  and  three-quarters  in  depth, 
which  will  be  furnished  to  the  exhibitors  by  the  superintendent, 
at  cost.    Market-baskets  will  not  be  allowed  on  the  tables. 

6.  No  person  can  compete  for  more  than  one  prize  with  the 
same  variety  or  varieties  of  fruit,  except  that  a  single  dish  may 
be  of  the  same  variety— but  not  the  same  specimens— as  one  of  a 
collection ;  and  also  that  the  same  variety — but  not  the  same 
specimens — may  compete  for  both  special  and  regular  prizes. 

7.  Grapes  grown  on  girdled  vines  cannot  compete  for  a 
premium. 

8.  All  fruits  offered  for  prizes  [exceptions  noted] ,  and  those  for 
foreign  grapes  must  be  of  outdoor  culture. 

The  Fruit  Committee,  in  making  their  awards,  will  consider 
the  flavor,  beauty  and  size  of  the  specimens,  comparing  each  of 
these  properties  with  a  fair  standard  of   the  variety.      The 


Rules.  145 

Rules  for  ExMMtion  (Mass.  Hort.  Society),  continued, 
adaptation  of  the  variety  to  general  cultivation  will  also  be  taken 
into  account.     Other  things  being  equal,  specimens  most  nearly 
in  perfection  as  regards  ripeness  will  have  the  preference. 

Special  Rules  of  the  Vegetable  Committee. — 1.  The  specimens 
offered  must  be  well-grown,  and  placed  on  the  tables  clean,  cor- 
rectly labeled,  and  fully  complying  with  the  Rules  and  Regula- 
tions of  the  Society. 

2.  Special  gratuities  will  be  awarded  for  well-grown  varieties 
from  under  glass,  previous  to  the  opening  exhibition. 

3.  All  vegetables  offered  for  premiums  must  bo  composed  of 
exactly  the  number  of  specimens  or  quantity  named  in  the 
schedule. 

4.  All  vegetables  offered  for  premiums  at  any  exhibition  must 
have  marked  upon  the  cards  the  numbers  of  the  prizes  for  which  they 
arc  offered. 

5.  Prizes  will  not  be  awarded  when  the  articles  are  judged  un- 
worthy. 

6.  Non-compliance  with  the  rules  will  cause  the  rejection  of 
the  articles  offered  for  premium. 

Special  Rules  of  the  Flower  Committee. — 1.  All  named  varieties 
of  plants  or  liowers  exhibited  for  premiums  must  have  the  name 
legibly  and  correctly  written  on  stiff  card,  wood,  or  some  other 
permanent  substance ;  and  each  separate  plant  or  flower  must 
have  its  name  attached. 

2.  All  plants,  flowers,  bouquets,  designs,  etc.,  offered  for  prizes 
at  any  exhibition,  must  have  m.arked  upon  the  cards  the  numbers  of 
the  prizes  for  which  they  are  offered. 

3.  Plants  in  pots,  to  be  entitled  to  prizes,  must  evince  skillful 
culture  in  the  profusion  of  bloom,  and  the  beauty,  symmetry 
and  vigor  of  the  specimens. 

4.  All  exhibitors  not  strictly  complying  with  the  above  rules 
will  b3  excluded  from  competition  for  premiums. 

5.  No  gratuities  will  be  awarded  on  other  than  regular  prize 
days,  except  for  objects  of  special  merit. 

3.      MICHIGAN  HORTICULTURAL   SOCIETY  RULES. 

For  Exhibitors. — Entries  may  be  made  for  exhibition  without 
competition ;  and  if  worthy,  the  awai'ding  committee  is  expected 
to  notice  them  properly  in  its  reports. 


146  The  Horticulturist' s  Rule- Book. 

Rules  for  Exiibition  (Mich.  Hort.  Society),  continued. 

No  article  entered  for  competition  in  one  class  will  be  per- 
mitted to  compete  for  a  premium  in  any  otlier,  except  as  herein- 
after expressly  provided. 

Each  entry  of  collection  of  fruits  must  be  accompanied  by  a 
correct  list  of  the  varieties  of  each  class  of  fruits,  named  in  the 
order  of  their  maturity  as  nearly  as  may  be.  No  premiums  will 
be  awarded  in  the  absence  of  such  list. 

Fruits  will  be  valued  by  committees  according  to  their  adapta- 
tion to  the  requirements  under  which  they  are  entered.  A  really 
superior  dessert  fruit,  if  entered  in  a  market  collection,  can  only 
receive  credit  for  its  value  for  the  market,  as  given  in  the 
Society's  catalogue ;  and,  vice  versa,  market  varieties  found  in  a 
dessert  or  family  collection  must  be  adjudged  by  their  proper 
value  for  family  purposes. 

A  plate  of  fruit,  unless  otherwise  specified,  must  contain  five 
specimens — no  more,  no  less.  Of  those  usually  designated  ' '  small 
fruits,"  the  exhibit  must  be  one  pint  of  each  variety.  Of  crab- 
apples  and  plums,  one  dozen  of  each  variety.  Of  dried  fruits^ 
one  quart  of  each  separate  variety  or  article.  Jellies,  canned, 
pickled  and  preserved  fruits  may  be  entered  and  shown  in  glass 
vessels,  of  such  character  and  capacity  as  are  commonly  em- 
ployed for  family  or  market  purposes. 

Flowers,  plants,  evergi'eens,  and  such  other  articles  as  the 
fancy  of  the  exhibitor  may  suggest,  may  be  freely  employed  in 
the  ornamentation  of  exhibits,  in  any  manner  that  shall  not 
essentially  interfere  Avith  the  examinations  of  committees  or  the 
general  designs  of  decoration ;  and  full  weight  will  be  given  to 
such  ornamentation  by  the  awarding  committees  in  rendering 
their  awards. 

The  entry -card  furnished  by  the  secretary,  specifying  the  class 
and  number  of  the  entry,  must  in  all  cases  be  placed  in  con- 
nection with  the  articles  to  which  it  appertains,  as  a  guide  to 
committees. 

Articles  when  entered,  named  and  arranged  for  exhibition  will 
thenceforth  be  strictly  under  the  control  of  the  officers  in  charge 
of  the  exhibition,  and  neither  exhibitors  nor  spectators  will  be 
permitted  to  handle  them,  except  by  permission  of  the  proper 
officer. 

Any  exhibitor  having  been  awarded  a  premium  upon  an  article, 
and  removing  the  same  prior  to  the  close  of  the  exhibition  with- 


Rules.  T47 

Rules  for  ExMWtion  (Mich.  Hort.  Society),  continued. 

out  permission  of  the  officer  in  charge,  will  by  so  doing  forfeit 

his  right  to  such  premium. 

The  name  of  the  fruit  should  in  no  case  appear  on  the  entry- 
card,  except  only  in  the  case  of  single  plates  or  other  single 
articles. 

Entry-cards,  name-cards,  and  the  cards  of  the  committee  on 
nomenclature,  should,  for  the  convenience  of  awarding  commit- 
tees and  other  officers,  be  each  of  a  different  color,  or  otherwise 
printed  in  different-colored  inks. 

Exhibitors  will  not  be  pormitted  to  sell  and  deliver  the  arti- 
cles they  may  have  entered  for  exhibition,  or  to  bring  fruit  or 
any  other  article  for  the  purpose  of  sale,  on  a  penalty  of  for- 
feiture of  all  premiums,  but  such  articles  must  remain  in  charge 
of  the  officers  until  the  close  of  the  exhibition. 

Any  exhibitor  interfering  with  awarding  committees  while  in 
discharge  of  their  duties,  will  be  held,  by  so  doing,  to  have  for- 
feited all  premiums. 

¥or  Awarding  CommitUes.—l.  The  division  superintendent  wall 
be  a  member  and  clerk  of  the  awai'ding  committee  for  his  divis- 
ion. The  remaining  members  of  each  committee  will  be  selected 
with  great  care  from  the  best  horticulturists  of  this  and  neigh- 
boring states.  The  names  of  such  persons  will  not  be  made 
public  until  the  time  of  the  fair. 

2.  Members  of  the  awarding  committee  are  requested  to  report 
to  the  president,  at  the  secretary's  office,  on  or  before  noon  of  the 
second  day  of  the  fair,  that  the  places  of  those  failing  to  report 
may  be  supplied. 

3.  The  president  is  chairman  of  the  committee  on  nomencla- 
ture ;  but  to  expedite  the  business  of  correction  the  superinten- 
dent of  each  division  wall  correct  the  nomenclature  of  his  division, 
appealing  to  the  chairman  in  all  doubtful  cases,  and  attaching 
the  committee's  card  in  all  cases  in  which  corrections  are  made. 

4.  No  exhibitor  wall  be  permitted  to  act  on  a  committee  in  a 
class  in  which  he  shall  exhibit  for  premiums. 

5.  Members  of  the  awarding  committee  are  requested  to  re- 
port to  the  president,  at  the  secretarj^'s  office,  at  1  o'clock  p.  m. 
on  Thursday,  when  they  will  receive  their  committee  books,  to- 
gether with  such  explanations  and  instructions  as  may  at  the 
time  seem  needful. 


148  The  HorticulUirisf  s  Rule- Book. 

Rules  for  Exhibition  (Mich.  Hort.  Society),  continued. 

6.  Upon  conclusion  of  their  labors,  not  later  than  the  afternoon 
of  Friday,  awarding  committees  will  deliver  their  reports  to 
the  president,  who  will  examine  them,  and  in  case  of  insuflflciency 
or  omission  will  return  them  with  instructions.  When  accepted 
by  the  president,  they  will  be  delivered  to  the  secretary. 

7.  "When  an  exhibit  is  not  deemed  worthy  of  a  premium,  the 
committee  will  withhold  the  award. 

8.  A  majority  of  an  awarding  committee,  when  present,  shall 
constitute  a  quorum,  and  of  those  present,  the  first  on  the  list 
shall  act  as  chairman,  unless  the  committee  shall  arrange  other- 
wise. 

9.  Awarding  committees,  in  estimating  the  comparative  values 
of  exhibits,  are  instructed  to  base  such  estimates  strictly  upon 
the  varieties  in  such  collections  that  shall  be  correctly  labeled  by 
the  exhibitors  prior  to  the  corrections  of  the  committee  on  nomen- 
clature. 

10.  In  awarding  premiums  upon  any  and  all  exhibits  of  fruits, 
committees  will  exclude  any  and  all  unlabeled  and  incorrectly 
labeled  specimens,  as  well  as  duplicates,  and  consider:  1st,  the 
value  of  the  varieties  for  the  required  purpose,  as  given  in  the 
Society's  Catalogue  of  Fruits  ;  2d,  the  color,  size  and  evenness  of 
the  specimens ;  3d,  their  freedom  from  the  marks  of  insects  and 
other  blemishes ;  4th,  the  apparent  carefulness  in  handling  and 
the  tastefulncss  of  the  exhibit,  recollecting  that  the  gradations 
of  the  catalogue  call  for  perfect  specimens.  These  gradations 
should,  therefore,  be  correspondingly  lowered  in  case  of  deficien- 
cies or  imperfections.  A  copy  of  the  catalogue  Avill,  for  this  pur- 
pose, be  furnished  to  each  committee.  In  grading  collections 
entered  for  family  purposes,  the  dessert  and  culinary  subcolumns 
should  be  consulted,  and  the  gradation  expressing  the  highest 
value  taken.  For  market,  the  gradations  of  the  market  sub- 
column  only  should  be  emj^loyed. 

11.  In  the  case  of  fruits  not  named  in  the  catalogue,  for  the 
dessert,  committees  should  consider:  1st,  quality'-;  2d,  beauty; 
3d,  size.  For  culinary  uses:  1st,  flavor;  2d,  texture;  3d,  size. 
For  market:  1st,  pi'oductiveness:  2d,  color;  3rd,  handling  qual- 
ities :  4th,  suitable,  even  size. 


Rules.  149 

Rules  for  ExMbition  (Mich.  Hort.  Society),  continued. 

12.  The  true  and  legitimate  pui'pose  of  the  premiums  offered  is 
to  draw  out  the  views  of  both  exhibitors  and  committees  respect- 
ing the  relative  values,  for  the  purposes  specified,  of  the  varieties 
included  in  the  exhibits. 

13.  The  society  desires  to  encourage  the  planting  of  only  a 
sufficiently  large  variety  of  sorts  for  the  desired  purpose.  Hence 
it  is  important  that  the  committee,  in  their  reports,  specify,  in 
the  order  of  their  value,  the  varieties  upon  which  the  determi- 
nation of  their  awards  is  based. 

14.  Useful  and  valuable  varieties  only  are  expected  to  influence 
awards ;  while  indifferent  sorts,  even  though  large,  showy  and 
attractive,  should  not  for  these  reasons  alone  be  held  to  add  to 
the  value  of  an  exhibit,  except,  possibly,  as  a  means  of  education. 

15.  An  important  object  of  the  society  is  to  collect  valuable  in- 
formation of  a  pomological  character.  Committees  are  therefore 
requested  to  gather  all  the  information  possible  from  the  exhibi- 
tors in  their  classes,  and  to  make  their  reports  as  full  as  time 
and  circumstances  will  iiermit. 

16.  The  society  desires  to  foster  a  free  exercise  by  exhibitors 
of  the  principles  of  correct  taste  in  the  arrangement,  display  and 
ornamentation  of  their  exhibits.  To  this  end,  committees  will 
give  all  reasonable  and  proper  consideration  to  particulars  of 
this  character. 


If  I  could  put  my  uords  in 

And  tell  xvbal's  there  enjoyed. 
All  men  would  to  my  garden  throng, 

And  leave  the  cities  void. 

— Emerson. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


Postal  Rates  and  Regulations. 

I.     Classes  of  Domestic  Mail   Matter,  and  Rates. 

First  Class.— Letters,  postal  cards,  and  matter  wholly  or 
partly  in  writing,  whether  sealed  or  unsealed  (except  manuscript 
copy  accompanying  proof-sheets  or  corrected  proof-sheets  of  the 
same) ,  and  all  matter  sealed  or  otherwise  closed  against  inspec- 
tion. 

Rate. — Two  cents  per  ounce  or  fraction  thereof.  Postal  cards, 
one  cent  each.  On  "  drop  "'  letters,  two  cents  per  ounce  or  frac- 
tion thereof,  when  mailed  at  letter-carrier  office ;  and  one  cent 
per  ounce  or  fraction  thereof  at  other  oflBces. 

Second  Class. — Newspapers  and  publications  issued  at  stated 
intervals  as  often  as  four  times  a  year,  bearing  a  date  of  issue 
and  numbered  consecutively,  issued  from  a  known  office  of  pub- 
lication, and  formed  of  printed  sheets,  without  board,  cloth, 
leather  or  other  substantial  binding.  Such  publications  must  be 
originated  and  published  for  the  dissemination  of  information  of  a 
public  character,  or  devoted  to  literature,  the  sciences,  art,  or 
some  special  industry.  They  must  have  a  legitimate  list  of  sub- 
scribers, and  must  not  be  designed  primarily  for  advertising  pur- 
poses, or  for  fi-ee  circulation  at  nominal  rates. 

Rate. — One  cent  per  pound  or  fraction  thereof  when  sent  by 
publisher  thereof  and  from  office  of  publication,  including 
sample  copies,  or  when  sent  from  news  agency  to  actual  subscri- 
bers or  other  news  agents. 

One  cent  for  each  four  ounces  or  fraction  thereof  on  newspapers 
and  periodical  publications  of  second  class,  when  sent  by  other 
than  publisher  or  news  agent. 

One  cent  each  on  newspapers  (excepting  weeklies) 'and  peri- 
(150) 


Postal  Rates  and  Regulations.  151 

Classes  of  Domestic  Mail  Matter,  and  Rates,  continued, 
odicals  not  exceeding  two  ounces  in  weight,  when  deposited  in 
letter-carrier   office  for  delivery  by  carrier ;  two  cents  each  on 
periodicals  weighing  more  than  two  ounces. 

One  cent  per  pound  on  newspapers,  other  than  weeklies,  and 
periodicals  when  deposited  by  publisher  or  news  agent  in  letter- 
carrier  oflQce  for  general  or  box  delivery ;  one  cent  for  four  ounces 
or  fraction  thereof  when  deposited  by  other  than  publishers  or 
news  agents,  for  general  or  box  delivery. 

One  cent  per  pound  or  fraction  thereof  on  weekly  newspapers 
deposited  by  publisher  or  news  agent  in  letter-carrier  office  for 
letter  or  box  delivery,  or  delivery  by  carrier ;  one  cent  for  each 
package  not  exceeding  four  ounces,  and  one  cent  for  each  adition- 
al  four  ounces  or  fraction  thereof  when  deposited  by  other  than 
publisher  or  news  agent. 

Free  when  one  copy  is  sent  to  each  actual  subscriber  residing 
in  county  where  same  are  printed,  in  whole  or  in  part,  and  pub- 
lished ;  but  at  rate  of  one  cent  per  pound  when  delivered  at  letter- 
carrier  ofQce,  or  distributed  by  carriers. 

Third  Class.— Books,  periodicals  and  matter  wholly  in  print 
(not  included  in  second  class),  proof-sheets,  corrected  proof- 
sheets,  and  manuscript  accompanying  the  same. 

"  Printed  matter"  is  the  production  upon  paper,  by  any  proc- 
ess except  that  of  handwriting,  of  any  Avords,  letters,  characters, 
figures,  or  images,  or  of  any  combination  thereof,  not  having  the 
character  of  an  actual  and  personal  correspondence. 

A  "circular  "  is  a  printed  letter,  which,  according  to  internal 
evidence,  is  being  sent  in  identical  terms  to  several  persons.  It 
is  permissible  to  write,  in  circulars,  the  date,  the  name  of  the 
person  addressed,  or  of  the  sender,  and  to  correct  mere  typo- 
graphical errors. 

Hate,. — One  cent  for  each  two  ounces  or  fraction  thereof. 

Fourth  Class. — Merchandise;  namely,  all  matter  not  em- 
braced in  the  other  three  classes,  and  which  is  not  in  its  form  or 
nature  liable  to  destro3%  deface  or  otherwise  damage  the  contents 
of  the  mail-bag,  or  harm  the  person  of  any  one  engaged  in  the 
postal  service,  and  not  above  the  weight  provided  by  law.  In- 
cludes seeds  and  plants. 


Commercial  papers. 


152  The   Horticulturisf  s  Rule- Book. 

Classes  of  Domestic  Mail  Matter,  and  Rates,  continued. 

Rate. — One  cent  per  ounce  or  fraction  thereof;  or  on  seeds, 
cuttings,  roots,  scions  and  plants,  one  cent  for  each  two  ounces 
or  fraction  thereof. 

a.     Foreign   Postage. 

To  Canada,  Newfoundland  and  Mexico,  the  rates  are  the  same 
as  domestic  postage. 

In  the  Universal  Postal  Union,  which  includes  nearly  all  the 
countries  of  the  world  except  New  Zealand  and  most  Australian 
provinces,  rates  are  as  follows : 

Letters,  X  ounce 5  cents. 

Postal  cards,  each 2      '' 

Newspaper  and  other  printed  matter,  por  2  ounces  .  .   .    1      " 
f  Packets  not  in  excess  of  10  ounces   5      " 
Packets  in  excess  of  10  ounces,  for 
each  2  ounces  or  fraction  there- 
[        of 1      " 

I  Packets  not  in  excess  of  4  ozs.  2     " 
Packets  in  excess  of  4  ounces, 
for  each  2  ounces  or  frac- 
tion thereof 1      " 

Registration  fee  on  letters  or  other  articles 10     " 

The  rates  to  New  Zealand,  New  South  Wales,  Queensland, 
Victoria  and  Tasmania  are:  12  cts.  (per  3^  oz.)  on  first-class 
matter,  2  cents  a  copy  for  newspapers,  4  cents  for  single  rate  (4 
oz. )  on  printed  matter  other  than  newspapers  and  merchandise. 
Rates  to  China  are  13  cents  for  a  half  ounce  of  first-class  matter. 
5  cents  for  a  single  rate  (4  oz.)  on  newspapers,  4  cents  for  a 
single  rate  (2  oz.)  on  other  printed  matter  and  merchandise. 
For  Cape  Colonj^,  Natal,  most  of  Morocco,  and  some  other  parts 
of  Africa,  and  some  islands,  the  rate  is  15  cents  on  a  half  ounce 
of  first-class  matter.  For  Cape  Colony  and  Natal,  newspapers 
demand  4  cents  for  a  single  rate  (4  oz. ) ,  and  other  printed  matter 
and  merchandise  5  cents  for  a  single  rate  (2  oz.). 

3.     Unmailable  Mat..er. 

Held  for  Postage. — Domestic  matter  of  first  class  on  which  two 
cents  has  not  been  prepaid,  and  all  other  domestic  matter  not 
fully  prepaid. 


Postal  Rates  and  Reg^dations.  153 

nnmailable  Matter,  continued. 

Misdirected. — Matter  without  address,  or  so  incorrectly,  insuf- 
ficiently or  illegibly  addressed  that  it  cannot  be  forwarded  to 
destination,  including- ' '  nixies  ' '  or  matter  not  addressed  to  a  post- 
ofQce,  or  addressed  to  a  post-office  without  the  name  of  the  state 
being  given,  or  otherwise  so  incorrectly,  illegibly  or  insufficiently 
addressed  that  it  cannot  be  transmitted. 

Destructive.— Matter  of  a  harmful  nature,  poisons,  explosive  or 
inflammable  articles,  live  animals,  or  dead  animals  not  stuffed, 
fruits  or  vegetable  matter  liable  to  decomposition,  comb-honey, 
guano,  articles  exhaling  a  bad  odor,  vinous,  spirituous  and  malt 
liquors,  liquids  liable  to  explosion,  spontaneous  combustion,  or 
ignition  by  shock  or  jar  (for  example,  kerosene  oil,  naphtha,  ben- 
zine, turpentine,  etc.).  Bees  and  dried  insects  or  reptiles  must 
be  so  put  up  as  not  to  injure  any  one  handling  the  mails,  nor  to 
soil  mail-bags  or  their  contents. 

Coin  and  Jewelry.— Coin,  jewelry  and  other  precious  articles 
prohibited  by  postal  treaty  from  being  sent  in  the  mails  to  for- 
eign countries. 

Scurrilous  Matter. — Matter  upon  the  envelope  or  outside  cover  or 
wrapper  of  which,  or  any  postal-card  upon  which,  any  delinea- 
tions, epithets,  terms,  or  language  of  an  indecent,  lewd,  lascivious, 
obscene,  libelous,  scurrilous,  defamatory  or  threatening  char- 
acter, or  calculated  by  the  terms,  or  manner  or  style  of  displa5% 
and  obviously  intended  to  reflect  injuriously  upon  the  character 
or  conduct  of  another,  may  be  written  or  printed,  or  otherwise 
impressed  or  apparent. 

Obscene3fattcr.— Every  obscene,  lewd  or  lascivious  book,  pamph- 
let, picture,  paper,  letter,  writing,  print  or  other  publication  of 
an  indecent  character,  and  every  article  or  thing  designed  or  in- 
tended for  the  prevention  of  conception  or  procuring  of  abortion, 
and  every  article  or  thing  intended  or  adapted  for  any  indecent 
or  immoral  use,  and  every  written  or  printed  card,  letter,  circu- 
lar, book,  pamphlet,  advertisement,  or  notice  of  any  kind  giving 
information,  directly  or  indirectly,  where  or  how  or  of  whom 
or  by  what  means  any  of  the  hereinbefore-mentioned  matters 
articles  or  things  may  be  obtained  or  made,  whether  sealed  as 
first-class  matter  or  not. 

Lottery  Matter. — Letters  and  circulars  known  to  be  concerning 


154  "^^^^  Hortlculturisf  s  Rule- Book. 

Unmailable  Matter,  continued. 

lotteries,  gift-concerts,  etc.,  or  concerning  any  scheme  devised 
and  intended  to  receive  and  defraud  the  public  for  the  purpose 
of  obtaining  money  ui\der  false  pretenses. 

Mutilated. — Matter  recovered  from  wrecked  or  burned  mail- 
cars  or  vessels,  or  matter  damaged  so  that  it  cannot  be  forwarded 
to  destination.  All  matter  found  loose  in  the  mails,  separated 
from  the  wrapper,  label  or  envelope  containing  the  address,  so 
that  the  direction  cannot  be  known ;  and  the  matter  recovered 
from  depredations  on  the  mails  and  to  be  restored  to  the  owners 
upon  due  proof  of  ownership. 

Excess  of  Weight  and  Size. — Packages  of  domestic  third  and 
fourth  class  matter,  weighing  more  than  four  pounds  (except 
single  books  and  official  matter  emanating  from  the  Departments 
at  Washington),  and  of  foreign  matter  in  excess  of  weight  or 
size  fixed  by  stipulation  of  postal  treaty. 


^■^^^^^^g^ 


Ev'n  in  tbe  stifling  bosom  of  tbc  Uown, 
B  Oar^cn  in  wbtcb  nothing  tbrires  bas  cbarms 
Ubat  sootbc  tbc  vicb  possessor ;  mucb  consolc5 
■Cbat  bcrc  an^  tbcrc  some  sprigs  of  mournful  mint, 
©f  nigbtsba^es  or  valerian,  grace  tbe  wall 
1F3C  cultivates.  « 

— Cowpcr. 


CHAPTER   XVIII. 


Weather  Signs  and  Protections  from  Frost. 

Stationary  barometer  indicates  continuance  of  the  present 
weather. 

Slowly  rising  barometer  usually  indicates  fair  weather. 

Slowly  falling  barometer  indicates  the  approach  of  a  severe 
storm.  One-fifth  to  one-third  of  an  inch  is  sufficient  fall  to  give 
indications. 

Sudden  rise  of  the  barometer  indicates  the  approach  of  a  storm 
or  the  breaking-up  of  an  existing  storm. 

Sudden  fall  of  the  barometer  indicates  high  winds  and  probable 
rain. 

When  areas  of  low  and  high  barometer  are  near  together, 
heavy  gales  may  be  expected. 

Long  lines  of  clouds  extending  up  the  sky  from  a  common 
starting-point  often  fortell  a  storm  from  that  quarter. 

When  the  fleecy  or  cirrus  clouds  settle  down  into  horizontal 
bars  or  ribs  in  the  upper  sky,  wet  and  foul  weather  may  be  ex- 
pected.   This  is  the  "mackerel  sky." 

If  contiguous  clouds  move  in  various  directions,  rain  is  likely  to 
follow  soon. 

When  small  black  clouds  scud  over  an  overcast  sky,  heavy  rain 
and  bad  weather  may  be  expected. 

Cumulus  clouds  that  preserve  a  well-rounded  form  and  float 
high  in  the  air  indicate  fair  weather. 

Anvil-shaped  cumulus  clouds  usually  indicate  thunder-storms. 

In  spring  and  fall,  rain  is  often  indicated  by  a  dense  bank  of  gray 
clouds  in  the  east,  in  front  of  which  are  little  shoals  of  blackish 
clouds. 

Cirro-cumulus  clouds — like  bunches  and  fleeces  of  wool  scat- 
tered high  in  the  sky— are  indications  of  still  and  dry  weather. 
(155) 


156  The  Horticulticrisf  s  Rule- Book. 

When  the  rays  of  the  rising  sun  shoot  far  up  into  the  sky,  fair 
weather  may  be  expected. 

When  the  ray-like  shadows  of  clouds  overlie  a  hazy  sky  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  sun,  rain  is  apt  to  follow.  This  is  expressed  in 
the  phrase  "  the  sun  drawing  water." 

Gaudy  hues  of  blue  and  purple  at  sunset  prophesy  rain  and 
wind. 

A  bright  red  sunset  means  fair  weather  for  the  morrow. 

A  pale  and  diffuse  sun  at  setting  portends  a  storm. 

If  the  sun  sets  in  subdued  purple  and  the  zenith  is  pale  blue 
fair  weather  may  be  expected. 

A  deep  red  morning  sky  is  usually  followed  by  bad  weather. 

A  rosy  or  gray  morning  sky  means  good  weather. 

A  sonorous  condition  of  the  atmosphere  foretells  rain. 

A  bank  of  cloud  across  the  southern  horizon  in  winter  indicates 
snow.    It  is  frequently  called  the  "snow-bank." 

If  the  sun  rises  clear  but  becomes  overcast  within  half  an  hour' 
prepare  for  rain. 

A  halo  about  the  moon  indicates  a  rain-storm. 

If  the  sky  is  white  or  yellowish  white  nearly  to  the  zenith  after 
sunset,  prepare  for  rain  soon. 

Strong  east  winds  indicate  a  storm. 

Haziness  is  indicative  of  dry  weather.  It  is  due  to  dust  in  the 
atmosphere. 

When  haziness  suddenly  dissappears  and  the  sun  sets  pale  and 
the  sky  is  very  clear,  rain  is  probable. 

When  stars  twinkle  with  unusual  prominence,  rain  may  be 
expected. 

Heavy  dew  indicates  fair  weather. 

Absence  of  dew  for  two  or  three  mornings  in  succession  in 
summer  is  a  precursor  of  rain. 
To  Predict  Frost  (Kedzie) : 

1.  When  the  sunshine  is  very  hot  and  the  shade  very  cold  and 
the  shadows  very  deep,  "  there  is  frost  in  the  air,"  because  the 
air  is  very  dry  and  radiation  of  heat  little  checked. 

2.  When  the  dew-point  is  more  than  10°  F.  above  frost-point, 
there  is  little  danger  of  frost.  To  find  approximately  the  tem- 
perature of  dew-point  when  the  temperature  of  the  air  is  between 


Weather  Signs,  and  Protection  from  Frost.   157 

45° and  65°  P.,  multiply  the  difference  between  the  wet-bulb  and 
dry-bulb  thermometers  by  two  and  subtract  the  product  from 
temperature  of  dry-bulb.  If  the  remainder  is  above  42°  F.,  there 
is  little  danger  of  frost.  The  nearer  this  remainder  comes  to  32°, 
the  greater  the  danger  of  frost,  especially  if  the  air  is  still  and 
clouds  disappear  at  sunset. 
To  Protect  Plants  from  Light  Frosts: 

1.  Make  a  smudge  in  the  garden  or  vineyard  at  night  when  the 
frost  is  expected.  Rubbish  or  litter  and  tar  make  the  best 
smudge. 

2.  Syringe  the  plants  thoroughly  at  night-fall. 


-^ 


Learn  we  of  the  -winds,  and  the  weather's  changeful  face. 
And  what  the  ancestral  haunts  and  habits  he 
Of  things  that  grow : — the  loved  of  every  place, 
And  the  rejected. 


-Vergil. 


CHAPTER    XIX. 


Collecting  and  Preserving. 

i.     Collecting  and  Preserving  Plants. 

Collect  samples  of  all  parts  of  the  plant,  lower  and  upper 
leaves,  stem,  flowers,  fruit,  and  in  most  cases  roots.  In  small 
species,  those  two  feet  high  or  less,  the  whole  plant  should  b3 
taken.  Of  larger  plants,  take  portions  about  a  foot  long.  Press 
the  plants  between  papers  or  '"driers."  These  driers  may  be 
any  thick  porous  paper,  as  blotting-paper  or  carpet-paper,  or,  for 
plants  that  are  not  succulent  or  very  juicy,  newspapers  in 
several  thicknesses  may  be  used.  It  is  best  to  place  the  speci- 
mens in  sheets  of  thin  paper — grocer's  tea-paper  is  good — and 
place  these  sheets  between  the  driers.  Many  specimens  can  be 
placed  in  a  pile.  On  top  of  the  pile  place  a  short  board  and  a 
weight  of  20  or  30  pounds.  Change  the  driers  every  day.  The 
plants  are  dry  when  they  become  brittle  and  when  no  moisture 
can  be  felt  by  the  fingers.  Some  plants  will  dry  in  two  or  three 
days,  while  others  require  as  many  weeks.  If  the  pressing  is 
properly  done  the  specimens  will  come  out  smooth  and  flat,  and 
the  leaves  will  usually  tee  green,  although  some  plants  always 
turn  black  in  drying. 

Specimens  are  usually  mounted  on  single  sheets  of  white  paper 
of  the  stiffness  of  very  heavy  writing-paper  or  thin  Bristol  board. 
The  standard  size  of  sheet  is  ll>^xl6>^  inches.  The  plants  may 
be  pasted  down  permanently  and  entirely  to  the  sheet,  or  they 
may  be  held  on  by  strips  of  gummed  paper.  In  the  former  case, 
Denison's  fish-glue  is  the  best  gum  to  use.  But  one  species  or 
variety  should  be  placed  on  a  sheet.  The  species  of  a  genus  are 
collected  into  a  genus  cover.  This  cover  is  a  folded  sheet  of 
heavy  manila  or  other  firm  paper,  and  the  standard  size,  when 
folded,  is  13x16)^  inches.  Oa  the  lower  left  hand  corner  of  this 
(158) 


Collecting  and  Preserving.  159 

Collecting  and  Preserving  Plants,  continued. 

cover  iho  uame  of  the  genus  is  written.  A  label  should  accom- 
pany each  specimen  upon  the  separate  sheets.  The  specimens 
are  now  ready  to  bo  filed  away  on  shelves  in  a  horizontal  position. 
If  insects  attack  the  specimens,  they  may  be  destroyed  by  fumes 
of  bisulphide  of  carbon  (see  p.  9)  or  chloroform.  In  this  case  it 
is  necessary  to  place  the  specimens  in  a  tight  box  and  then  insert 
the  liquid.  Usually,  however,  specimens  are  dipped  in  poison, 
and  then  dried  before  being  mounted. 

Herbarium  Poisons.— 1.  120  grains  of  arsenic  acid  dissolved 
in  a  quart  of  alcohol.  The  arsenic  acid  is  very  deliquescent  and 
the  bottle  must  be  kept  tightly  corked.  This  is  Dr.  Gray's 
favorite  preparation,  and  is  used  in  the  herbarium  at  Harvard 
University. 

2.  Place  as  much  corrosive  sublimate  in  alcohol  as  the  liquid 
will  dissolve.  If  the  poison  is  applied  with  a  brush,  care  must 
be  taken  to  avoid  one  with  iron  trimmings,  as  the  sublimate  cor- 
rodes the  iron. 

3.  Dissolve  \%  oz.  of  corrosive  sublimate  in  1  pt.  of  alcohol: 
add  2)^3  fluidrachms  of  carbolic  acid  and  api)ly  with  a  paint-brush. 

4.  1  lb.  of  corrosive  sublimate,  1  lb.  of  carbolic  acid  to  4  gals, 
of  methylated  spirit. 

Camphor,  frequently  renewed  in  each  cabinet,  is  often  suflQ- 
cient  to  prevent  the  attack  of  insects. 

2.     Preserving  and   Printing  of  Flowers  and  Other  Part* 
of  Plants. 

To  Preserve  the  Color  of  Dried  Flowers.— 1.  Immerse 
the  stem  of  the  fresh  specimen  in  a  solution  of  32  parts  by  weight 
of  alum,  4  of  niter  and  ISO  of  water  for  two  or  three  days  until 
the  liquid  is  thoroughly  absorbed,  and  then  press  in  the  ordinary 
way,  except  that  dry  sand  is  sifted  over  the  specimen  and  the 
packet  submitted  to  the  action  of  gentle  heat  for  twenty-four 
hours. 

3.  Make  a  varnish  composed  of  20  parts  of  powdered  copal  and 
500  parts  of  ether,  pov.'dered  glass  or  sand  being  used  to  make 
the  copal  dissolve  more  readily.  Into  this  solution  the  plants  are 
carefully  dipped ;  then  they  are  allowed  to  dry  for  10  minutes, 
and  the  same  process  is  repeated  four  or  five  times  in  succession. 


i6o  The  HorticulturisV s  Rule- Book. 

Preserving  and  Printing  Flowers  and  Plants,  continued. 

3.  Piuiits  may  also  ba  plunged  in  a  boiling  solution  of  1  part  of 
salicylic  acid  and  600  of  alcohol,  and  then  dried  in  bibulous  paper. 
But  this  should  be  done  very  rapidly,  violet  flowers  especially 
being  decolorized  by  more  than  an  instantaneous  immersion. 

4.  Red  flowers  which  have  changed  to  a  purplish  tint  in  drying 
may  have  their  color  restored  by  laying  them  on  a  piece  of  paper 
moistened  with  dilute  nitric  acid  (1  part  to  10  or  12  parts  of 
water) ,  and  then  submitting  them  to  moderate  pressui*e  for  a  few 
seconds;  but  the  solution  must  not  touch  the  green  leaves,  as 
they  are  decolorized  by  it. 

5.  WitU  Sulphw-.  (Quin.)  Procure  a  chest  about  3  or  4  ft. 
square,  with  a  small  opening  in  the  under  part  of  one  side,  to  be 
closed  by  a  bar,  through  which  the  basin  containing  brimstone 
must  be  put  into  the  chest ;  this  opening  must  be  covered  inside 
with  perforated  tin,  in  order  to  prevent  those  flowers  which  hang 
immediately  over  the  basin  from  being  spoiled.  Paper  the  inside 
to  render  it  air-tight.  When  the  chest  is  ready  for  use,  nail 
small  laths  on  two  opposite  sides  of  the  interior,  at  a  distance  of 
about  6  inches  apart,  and  on  these  lay  thin  round  sticks  upon 
which  to  arrange  the  flowers ;  these  should  not  be  too  close  to- 
gether, or  the  vapor  will  not  circulate  freely  through  the  vacant 
spaces  around  the  flowers.  When  the  chest  is  suflQciently  full 
of  flowers  close  it  carefully,  place  a  damp  cloth  on  the  sides  of 
the  lid,  and  some  heavy  stones  upon  the  top  of  it;  then  take 
small  pieces  of  brimstone,  put  them  in  a  small  flat  basin,  kindle 
and  put  through  the  opening  in  the  bottom  of  the  chest  and  shut 
the  bar.  Leave  the  chest  undisturbed  for  twenty-four  hours, 
after  which  time  it  must  be  opened,  and  if  the  flowers  be  suffi- 
ciently' smoked  they  will  appear  white,  if  not,  they  must  be 
smoked  again.  When  sufiiciently  smoked,  take  the  flowers  out 
carefully  and  hang  them  up  in  a  dry,  airy  place  in  the  shade,  and 
in  a  few  days  or  even  hours  they  will  recover  their  natural  color, 
except  being  only  a  shade  paler. 

To  give  them  a  very  bright  and  shining  color,  plunge  them  into 
a  mixture  of  10  parts  of  cold  water  and  1  of  good  nitric  acid ; 
drain  off  the  liquid,  and  hang  them  up  again  the  same  as  before. 
The  best  flowers  for  this  process  are  asters,  roses,  fuchsias 
(single  ones),  spiraeas  (red-flowered  kinds,  such  as  callosa, 
Douglasi,  etc.),  ranunculus,  delphiniums,  cytisus,  etc.  The 
roses  should  be  quite  open,  but  not  too  fully  blown. 


Collecting  and.  Preserving .  i6i 

Preserving  and  Printing  of  Flowers  and  Plants,  continued. 

6.  In  Sand.  (Quia.)  Dry  the  plants  in  clean  silver  sand,  free 
from  organic  matter  (made  so  by  repeated  washing,  until  the 
sand  ceases  to  discolor  the  water) .  Heat  the  sand  rather  high 
and  mix  with  it  by  constant  stirring  a  small  piece  of  wax 
candle,  which  prevents  the  sand  from  adhering  to  the  flowers. 
Have  a  box  not  higher  than  3  inches  but  as  broad  as  possible ; 
this  box  should  have  instead  of  a  bottom  a  narrow-meshed  iron- 
wire  net  at  a  distance  of  %^  inches  from  where  the  bottom  should 
be.  Place  the  box  on  a  board  and  fill  with  sand  till  the  net  is 
just  covered  with  a  thin  layer  of  sand;  upon  this  layer  of  sand 
place  a  layer  of  flowers,  on  that  a  layer  of  sand,  then  flowers, 
and  so  on ;  the  layers  of  sand  should  Vary  in  thickness  according 
to  the  kind  of  flowers,  from  }-^  inch  to  ^  inch. 

When  the  box  contains  about  three  layers  of  flowers,  it  must 
be  removed  to  a  very  sunny  dry  place,  the  best  being  close  under 
the  glass  in  an  empty  greenhouse,  exposed  to  the  full  influence 
of  the  sun.  After  a  week,  if  the  weather  is  sunny  and  dry,  the 
flowers  will  be  perfectly  dried;  then  the  box  is  lifted  a  little, 
the  sand  falls  gently  through  the  iron  net,  and  the  flowers  re- 
main in  their  position  over  the  net  without  any  disturbance 
whatever. 

They  should  then  be  taken  out  carefully  and  kept  in  a  dry  and, 
if  possible,  dark  place,  where  no  sun  can  reach  them,  and  after- 
wards they  will  keep  very  well  for  many  years. 

Care  should  be  taken  that  the  flowers  are  cut  in  dry  weather 
and  that  while  lying  in  the  sand  no  part  of  a  flower  shall  touch 
another  part,  as  this  always  spoils  the  color  and  causes  decay. 
Sand  should  be  filled  in  between  all  the  parts  of  the  flower; 
therefore  it  is  necessary  to  insert  the  double  flowers  in  an  erect 
position,  in  order  to  fill  the  sand  between  the  petals,  while  most 
of  the  single  flowers  must  be  put  in  with  the  stalks  upwards. 

To  Keep  Fresh  Flowers.— If  cut-flowers  are  not  needed 
immediately,  wet  them  and  then  wrap  them  in  paper  and  place 
in  a  box  in  a  cool  place.  Keep  as  cool  as  possible  without  freez- 
ing. 

The  disagreeable  odor  which  comes  from  flowers  in  vases  is 
due  to  the  decay  of  the  leaves  and  stems  in  the  water.  There- 
fore remove  all  the  lower  leaves  before  putting  flowers  in  vases. 


1 62  The    Horticultitrisf s    Rule- Book. 

Preserving  and  Printing  of  Flowers  and  Plants,  continued. 

Flowers  that  have  stood  in  a  vase  for  a  day  or  so  can  be 
greatly  refreshed  if  taken  from  the  vase  at  night,  thoroughly 
sprinkled  and  wrapped,  stems,  blossoms  and  all,  as  closely  as 
possible  in  a  soaked  cloth,  and  laid  aside  until  the  morning. 
They  will  be  much  fresher  than  if  they  had  been  left  in  their 
vases,  yet  will  not  have  bloomed  out  so  much.  Before  thus 
laying  them  aside,  and  again  in  the  morning,  a  bit  of  each  stem 
should  be  cut  off,  as  the  end  soon  hardens.  This  ought  also  to  be 
done  once  or  twice  a  day,  even  if  the  flowers  are  kept  constantly 
in  their  vases.  Roses  which  have  drooped  before  their  time — as, 
for  example,  when  worn  on  the  dress — may  be  wonderfully  re- 
vived if  the  stems,  after  being  thus  cut,  are  placed  for  ten  min- 
utes in  almost  boiling  water  and  then  removed  to  cold  water.  It 
is  also  well  to  add  a  little  charcoal  or  ammonia  to  the  Avater  in 
which  flowers  are  standing. 

If  salt  is  added  to  the  water  in  which  cut- flowers  are  kept,  it 
will  delay  wilting  and  decay. 

Pkinting  Plants.— 1.  First,  lightly  oil  one  side  of  the  paper, 
then  fold  in  four,  so  that  the  oil  may  filter  through  the  pores,  and 
the  plant  may  not  come  into  direct  contact  with  the  liquid.  The 
plant  is  placed  between  the  leaves  of  the  socond  folding,  and  in 
this  position  pressed  (through  other  paper)  all  over  with  the 
hand,  so  as  to  make  a  small  quantity  of  oil  adhere  to  its  surface. 
Then  it  is  taken  out  and  placed  between  two  sheets  of  white 
paper  for  two  impressions,  and  the  plant  is  pressed  as  before. 
Sprinkle  over  the  invisible  image  remaining  on  the  paper  a 
quantity  of  black-lead  or  charcoal,  and  distribute  it  in  all  dii'ec- 
tions ;  the  image  then  appears  in  all  its  parts.  With  an  assort- 
ment of  colors  the  natural  colors  of  plants  may  be  reproduced. 
To  obtain  fixity,  rosin  is  previously  added  to  the  black-lead  in 
equal  parts.     Expose  to  heat  suflicient  to  melt  the  rosin. 

2.  The  best  paper  to  use  is  ordinarj^  wove  paper  without  water- 
marks; if  it  can  be  afforded,  use  thin  drawing-paper.  First 
select  the  leaves, then  carefully  press  and  dry  them.  If  they  bo 
placed  in  a  plant-press,  care  must  be  taken  not  to  put  too  great 
pressure  on  the  specimens  at  first,  or  they  will  be  spoiled  for 
printing.  An  old  book  is  the  best  for  drying  the  samples  to  be 
used.    Take  printers'  or  proof  ink,  and  a  small  leather  dabber; 


Collecting  arid  Preserving.  163 

Preservins:  and  Printing  of  Flowers  and  Plants,  continued, 

work  a  bit  of  ink  about  the  size  of  a  pea  on  a  small  piece  of  slate 
or  glass  with  the  dabber  until  it  is  perfectly  smooth.  A  drop  or 
two  of  linseed-oil  will  assist  the  operation.  Then  give  the  leaf  a 
thin  coating,  being  careful  to  spread  it  equally ;  now  lay  the  leaf 
ink  downwards  on  a  sheet  of  paper  and  place  it  between  the 
leaves  of  an  old  book,  which  must  then  be  subjected  to  a  moder- 
ate pressure  in  a  copying-press,  or  passed  between  the  rollers  of 
a  wringing-machine.  Impressions  can  be  taken  with  greater 
rapidity  by  laying  the  book  oh  the  floor  and  standing  upon  it  for 
a  few  seconds.  Soft  book-paper  is  the  best.  Previous  to 
using  it,  place  a  few  sheets  between  damp  blotting-paper,  which 
causes  it  to  take  the  ink  still  more  readily.  At  first  you  will  find 
that  you  lay  on  too  much  ink.  If  the  impression  is  too  black,  use 
the  leaf  again.  If  the  midrib  of  the  leaf  is  too  thick,  it  must  be 
shaved  down  with  a  sharp  knife. 

3.  Leaf -Prints.  (Engle.)  1.  A  small  ink-roller,  such  as 
printers  use  for  inking  type.  2.  A  quantity  of  green  printers' 
ink.  3.  A  pane  of  stout  window-glass  (the  larger  the  better) 
fastened  securely  to  an  evenly  planed  board  twice  the  size  of  the 
glass.  A  small  quantity  of  the  ink  is  put  on  the  glass  and  spread 
with  a  knife,  after  which  it  is  distributed  evenly  by  going  over 
in  all  directions  with  the  ink-roller.  When  this  has  been  care- 
fully done,  the  leaf  to  be  copied  is  laid  on  a  piece  of  waste  paper 
and  inked  by  applying  the  roller  once  or  twice  with  moderate 
pressure.  This  leaves  a  film  of  ink  on  the  veins  and  network  of 
the  leaf,  and  by  placing  it  on  a  piece  of  blank  paper  and  apply- 
ing considerable  pressure  for  a  few  moments  the  work  is  done, 
and  when  the  leaf  is  lifted  from  the  paper  the  impress  remains 
with  all  its  delicate  tracery,  faithful  in  color  and  outline  to  the 
original. 

To  make  the  ink  of  proper  consistency,  add  several  drops  of 
balsam  copaiba  to  a  salt-spoonful  of  ink.  In  case  the  leaf  sticks, 
the  ink  is  too  thick. 

Skeletonizing  Plants.  1.  By  Maceration.  Place  the  leaves 
ill  w^ater  and  allow  them  to  remain  in  the  same  water  for  from 
three  to  four  months,  until  the  soft  matter  decays,  and  the  stem 
may  be  taken  in  the  hand  and  the  refuse  shaken  away.  There 
remains  behind  a  network  or  skeleton  of  the  original  object, 


164  The  HorticulticrisV  s  Rule- Book. 

Preserving  and  Printing  of  Flowers  and  Plants,  continued, 
which  can  be  bleached  with  a  little  lime.     Leaves  and  pods  may 
both  be  treated  satisfactorily  in  this  manner.     The  pod  of  the 
'•  Jimson  weed  "  or  Datura  Stramonium  is  a  favorite  for  this  pur- 
pose. 

2.  By  Chemicals.  Chloride  of  lime,  }4  lb. ;  washing  soda,  }4  lb. 
Put  the  soda  into  1}4  pts.  boiling  water  (rain-water  is  best)  and 
let  it  thoroughly  dissolve.  Put  the  chloride  of  lime  in  a  large 
pitcher,  and  add  same  quantity  of  cold  water.  Stir  well  and 
cover  closely  to  prevent  the  escape  of  the  chlorine.  When  the 
soda-water  is  cool,  pour  it  on  the  chloride  of  lime,  stir  well  to- 
gether and  cover  tightly,  leaving  it  for  an  hour  or  more.  Then 
pour  off  very  gently  the  clear  liquid,  which  must  be  bottled 
tightly.  ' 

This  solution  will  remove  fruit-stains  from  white  goods,  and 
will  bleach  any  vegetable  substances.  When  used  for  cotton  or 
linen,  it  must  be  considerably  diluted,  and  the  goods  well  rinsed 
afterwards. 

3.     Perfumery. 

Permanent  Attar  or  Otto  of  Roses.  (EUwanger.) — The  roses 
employed  should  be  just  blown,  of  the  sweetest-smelling  kinds, 
gathered  in  as  dry  a  state  as  possible.  After  each  gathering, 
spread  out  the  petals  on  a  sheet  of  paper  and  leave  until  free 
from  moisture ;  then  place  a  layer  of  petals  in  the  jar,  sprinkling 
with  coarse  salt ;  then  another  layer  of  coarse  salt  alternating 
until  the  jar  is  full.  Leave  for  a  few  days,  or  until  a  broth  is 
formed ;  then  incorporate  thoroughly  and  add  more  petals  and 
salt,  mixing  thoroughly  daily  for  a  week,  when  fragrant  gums 
and  spices  should  be  added,  such  as  benzoin,  storax,  cassia-buds, 
cinnamon,  cloves,  cardamou  and  vanilla-bean.  Mix  again  and 
leave  for  a  few  days,  when  add  essential  oil  of  jasmine,  violet, 
tuberose  and  attar  of  roses,  together  with  a  hint  of  ambergris  or 
musk,  in  mixture  with  the  flower  ottos,  to  fix  the  odor.  Spices, 
such  as  cloves,  should  be  sparingly  used. 

Perfume  Jar.— 1.  One  lb.  of  dried  rose-petals  bought  at  a 
drug-store,  4  ozs.  of  salt  and  3  ozs.  of  saltpeter,  on  which  put  8 
drops  of  essence  of  ambergris,  6  drops  of  essence  of  lemon,  4 
drops  of  oil  of  cloves,  4  drops  oil  of  lavender  and  2  drops  of  es- 
sence of  bergamot. 


Collecting  and  Preserving .  165 

Perflim«IT,  continued. 

2.  One  -  half  lb.  common  salt,  %  lb.  saltpetei%  %  oz.  storax, 
1^  doz.  cloves,  a  handful  of  dried  bay-leaves,  and  another  handful 
of  dried  lavender-flowers.  This  basis  will  last  for  years,  and 
petals  of  roses  and  other  fragrant  flowers  gathered  on  dry  days 
may  be  added  annually,  or  powdered  benzoin,  chips  of  sandal- 
wood, cinnamon,  orris-root  or  musk  may  be  added. 

Lavender  Bag. — One-half  lb.  lavender-flowers,  3^  oz.  dried 
thyme  and  mint,  %  oz.  ground  cloves  and  caraway,  1  oz.  common 
salt.     Tie  up  in  a  linen  bag,  which  is  hung  in  a  wardrobe. 

Orris-root  is  a  good  medium  in  which  to  place  delicate  per- 
fumes for  perfumery-bags. 

4.     Collecting  and   Preserving  Insects. 

Plying  insects  are  caught  in  a  net  made  of  musquito-bar,  after 
the  fashion  of  the  minnow-net.  The  bar  is  made  into  a  bag 
about  a  yard  deep,  and  about  a  foot  in  width  at  the  top.  The 
opening  is  fastened  upon  a  wire  hoop,  which  is  secured  to  a  pole — 
as  a  broomstick.  Insects  are  killed  bj^  placing  them  in  a 
"cyanide-bottle."  This  is  prepared  by  placing  two  or  three 
lumps  of  cyanide  of  potassium  the  size  of  a  quail's  &^^  in  a 
museum-bottle  or  glass  jar,  covering  the  lumps  with  dry  plaster 
of  Paris,  and  then  adding  just  enough  water  to  make  the  plaster 
set.  The  fumes  of  the  poison  coming  through  the  plaster  quickly 
kill  the  insects.  Keep  the  bottle  corked.  The  cyanide  is  very 
poisonous  and  the  fumes  should  not  be  inhaled.  A  very  broad- 
mouthed  bottle  with  glass  stopple  is  best.  Bugs  and  beetles  can 
be  pinned  and  mounted  as  soon  as  they  are  dead.  It  is  custom- 
ary to  pin  beetles  through  the  right  wing-cover,  and  bugs — as 
squash-bug — through  the  triangular  space  between  the  wings. 
Butterflies,  moths,  bees,  flies,  etc.,  must  be  pressed  to  preserve 
the  wings.  This  is  done  by  placing  on  a  "  setting-board."  This 
apparatus  is  a  little  trough  with  a  crack  at  the  bottom.  The 
sides  of  the  trough  are  made  of  thin  bits  of  board,  three  or  four 
inches  wide  and  a  foot  or  more  long.  These  sides  have  very 
little  slant.  The  crack  in  the  bottom  of  the  trough  is  left  about 
a  half-inch  wide,  and  it  is  covered  beneath  with  a  strip  of  cork. 
The  body  of  the  insect  is  now  placed  lengthwise  the  crack,  a  pin 
is  thrust  through  the  thorax,  or  middle  division  of  the  insect, 
into  the  cork,  and  the  wings  are  laid  out  on  the  sides  of  the 


1 66  The  Horticulturisf  s  Rule- Book. 

Oollectini:  and  Preserving:  Insects,  continued. 

trough.  The  wings  are  held  in  place  by  strips  of  cardboard 
pinned  over  them.  Take  care  not  to  stick  the  pins  through 
the  wings.  In  about  two  weeks  the  insects  will  be  dry  and  stiff. 
Insects  must  be  kept  in  tight  boxes  to  keep  other  insects  from 
devouring  them.  Cigar-boxes  are  good.  Tight  boxes  with  glass 
covers  are  generally  used  by  collectors.  Place  sheets  of  cork  in 
the  bottom  of  the  box  to  receive  the  pins.  If  insects  attack  the 
specimens,  expose  them  in  a  tight  box  to  vapors  of  bisulphide 
of  carbon  (see  p.  9)  or  benzine. 


Happy  the  man  whose  wish  and  care 

A  few  paternal  acres  bound, 
Content  to  breathe  his  native  air 
In  his  own  ground. 

Whose  herds  with  milk,  whose  fields  with  bread, 

Whose  flocks  supply  him  with  attire; 
Whose  trees  in  summer  yield  him  shade. 
In  winter,  tire. 

Blest,  who  can  unconcern'dly  find 

Hours,  days  and  years  slide  soft  away 
In  health  of  body,  peace  of  mind, 
Quiet  by  day. 

—POPE. 


CHAPTER    XX. 


Elements,   Symbols  and   Analyses. 


I.    The  Elements  and  their   Symbols,  and    the    Composition 
of  Various  Substances. 


Aluminium  ....  Al. 

Antimony Sb. 

Arsenic As. 

Barium Ba. 

Bismuth Bi. 

Boron B. 

Bromine Br. 

Cadmium Cd. 

Caesium Cs. 

Calcium Ca. 

Carbon  C. 

Cerium Ce. 

Chlorine CI. 

Chromium Cr. 

Cobalt Co. 

Columbium  ....  Cb. 

Copper Cu. 

Didymium D. 

Erbium Er. 

Fluorine F. 

Gallium Ga. 

Glucinum Gl. 

Gold Au. 

Hydrog-en H. 

Indium In. 

Iodine I. 

Iridium Ir. 

Iron Fe. 

Lanthanum  .   .    .   .La. 

Lead Pb. 

Lithium Li. 

Magnesium  ....  Mg. 
Manganese  ....  Mn. 


Mercury Hg. 

Molybdenum   .  .  .  Mo. 

Nickel Ni. 

Nitrogen N. 

Osmium Os. 

Oxygen O. 

Palladium Pd. 

Phosphorus  ....  P. 

Platinum Pt. 

Potassium K. 

Rhodium Rh. 

Rubidium Rb. 

Ruthenium   ....  Ru. 

Scandium So. 

Selenium Se. 

Silicon Si. 

Silver Ag. 

Sodium Na. 

Strontium Sr. 

Sulphur S. 

Tantalum Ta. 

Tellurium Te. 

Thallium Tl. 

Thorium Th. 

Tin Sn. 

Titanium Ti. 

Tungstep W. 

Uranium U. 

Vanadium V. 

Yttrium  ......  Y. 

Zinc Zn. 

Zirconium Zr. 


(167) 


i68 


The  Horticulturisf  s  Rule- Book. 


The  Composition  of  Various  Substances. 


Acetic  acid  .   .   .   .  C2H4O2 

Ammonia NH3 

Aniline NHaCCeHg) 

Arsenious  oxide  .  .  AS4O6 
Carbonic  oxide   .   .  CO 
Carbonic  dioxide   .  CO 2 
Chloroform  ....  CHCI3 
Ferric  oxide    .  .   .  Fe2  03 
Ferrous  oxide     .   .  FeO 
Hydrochloric  acid  .HCl 
Mercuric  oxide  .   .  HgO 


Nitric  acid  .  . 
Nitric  oxide  .  . 
Nitrous  oxide  . 
Nitric  peroxide 


HNO3 
NO 
N2O 
NO  2 


Sulphuretted 

hydrogen    .  .   .   .  H2S 
Sulphurous  oxide  .SO2 
Sulphuric  oxide  .  .  SO  3 
Sulphuric  acid    .   .  H2SO4 
Water H2O 


2.    Analyses. 

Compiled  from  many  reliable  sources,  largely  from  the  labors 
of  Drs.  Goessmanu  and  S.  W.  Johnson. 

(a.)     General  Analyses  of  Fruits  and  Fruit-Plants. 

1.     Various  Fruits.     (Fresenius.) 


Apples 

Apricots 

Austrian  Grapes  .  .  .  . 
Cul  tivated  Strawberries 
Cultivated  Raspberries 
Green  Grapes  .  .  .  .  . 
Heart-Cherries   .... 

Mulberries 

Peaches     

Pears 

Red  Currants 

Red  Gooseberries  .  .  . 
Wild  Raspberries  .  .  . 
Wild  Strawberries   .   . 


G.83 
1.531 

13.78 
7.575 
4.708 
2.96 

13.11 
9.193 
1.580 
7.00 
4.78 
8.063 
3.599 
3.247 


.85 

.766 

1.020 

1.133 

1.356 

.96 

.351 

1.86 

.612 

.074 

2.31 

1.358 

1.980 

1.6.50 


2  ^ 


<5 


.45 

.389 

.832 

.359 

.544 

.477 

.903 

.394 

.463 

.26 

.45 

.441 

.546 

.619 


n^ 

a 

a 

si 

0^ 

m 

0  <« 

II 

f^ 

cc 

.47 

14.96 

9.283 

12.723 

.498 

16.49 

.119 

9.666 

1.746 

8.835 

10.475 

15.19 

2.286 

17.25 

2.031 

14.043 

6.313 

9.39 

3.281 

10.90 

.28 

8.36 

9.69 

11.148 

1.107 

7.500 

.145 

6.398 

82.04 

82.115 

79.997 

87.474 

86.557 

80.841 

75.37 

84.707 

84.99 

83.95 

85.84 

85.565 

83.86 

87.271 


Elements,  Symbols  and  Analyses, 


169 


s 


99jj^-naSoj;TX 

15.77 
17.57 
29.71 

-m  pionimnqtv 

I^CO 

•qsv 

.761 
.544 
.861 

aaq^  opnjo 

2.63 
2.83 
1.78 

•lOTjj^xo  jgqcia 

T-iOToocQoo         odd 

Mt:.ons-ouBO 

i-H  d  1-^  d  CO  xi  CO      ^  Tj^  d  r-I 

MCJoins  osoonio 

T-^  d  CO  10  d  tjh  id  d  i^  tjh'  CO  ic 

•spiOB  ooa^j; 


uia^ojcl  opn.io 


GO        OI^l^lOOC5t^«0 
OiOOT-Ht^lOl-Or-liOlOQO 
CO  GO  O  ■*  -*  00  CO  ?C  GO  i^  10  T— 


t^  iO  cv>  "*  o      10  01      o 

CO  O  O"?  ^  Cl  CO  O  C:j  O  ':C  CC'  OD 

CO  -o  CO  XI  I-  00  i^  r-H  c:i  CO  o  ci 
1-^  T-!  d  d  d  d  d  t-h'  d  d  !->'  d 


MaciCAV 


o 


170  The  Horticulturist' s  Rule- Book. 

Analyses,  continued. 

3.     strawberries.  Average  of  20  Varieties.     (Stone.) 

Water 90.52 

Solids 9.4S 

Free  acid 1.37 

Glucose 4.78 

Glucose  after  inversion 5.46 

Difference  calculated  as  cane-sugar 0.58 

COMPOSITION   OF   DRY    MATTER. 

Ash 6.53 

Crude  fiber 16.35 

Ether  extract 6.75 

Crude  protein 10.51 

Non-nitrogenous  extract 60  79 

4.     Raspberries.     (Weber.) 

Reliance.     Gre^g. 
Sugar 1.78          2.82 

Acid 0.92         0.64 

Seed 3.5  5.612 

Pectose,  protein,  combined  acids,  etc  .  .   .    3.92         5.91 

Ash 0.43          0.42 

Fiber 0.32  0.48 

Water.    .  : 89.13  84.12 

5.     Peach,  Branches.     (Kedzie.) 

Diseased  by 
Ash  constituents.  Healthy,    yellows. 

Silica,  Si02 1.21  1.40 

Oxideof  iron,  Fe2  03 0.92  0.84 

Lime,  CaO 43.67  45.02 

Magnesia,  MgO 2.53  2.40 

Potash,  K2O 7.07  4.93 

Soda,  NaaO 1.88  2.33 

Phosphoric  acid,  P 2 O5 7.20  6.03 

Sulphuric  oxide,  SO3 0.54  0.83 

Carbon  dioxide,  CO 2 34.71  35.85 

Chlorine 0.07  0.11 

Moisture  and  loss 0.30  0.26 

Total , 100.00     100.00 


Elefne7its,  Symbols  and  Analyses. 


171 


Analyses,  continued. 

6.     Peach,  Fruit  and  Branches. 


(Goessmann.) 


t*!-^ 

tl 

>,'a 

3  ^j^ 

c3   ^  CO 

1  W^ 

|H5 

1  w  S^ 

Jj  en  0 

■^  ^  0 

i=«-^^ 

Ash  Constituents. 

Frui 
ford' 
ch,  h 

P^' 

>    !3 

N-1 

^SS 

53  A^ 

t-i  '*' 

0 

0 

Q 

0 

Per 

Per 

Per 

Per 

cent. 

cent. 

cent. 

cent. 

Ferric  oxide,  Fe2  0 3          ■   -    ■ 

0.58 

0.46 

0.53 

1.45 

Calcium  oxide,  CaO 

3.64 

4.68 

54.53 

64.23 

Magnesium  oxide,  MpO ... 

0.29 

5.49 

7.58 

10.28 

Phosphoric  acid,  P2O5  .  .    .    . 

10.03 

18.07 

11.37 

8.37 

Potassium  oxide,  K2O  .   .    .    . 

T4.46 

71.30 

36.01 

15.67 

Total 

100.00 

100.00 

100.00 

100.00 

7.     Fertilizing  Constituents  in  the  Ash  of  Ft'uits.     (Goessmann.) 

Phosphoric 

Name.                                Potash.  Soda.  Lime.  Magn.    acid. 

Lombard  Plums 76.59  .   .   .    18.26  2.17      7.44 

Peaches 74.46  .  .   .      2.64  6.29    16.03 

Baldwin  Apples 63.54  1.71      7.28  5.52    20.87 

Asparagus,  stem 43.94  3.58    37.18  12.77    12.31 

"            roots 56.43  5.43    15.48  7.57    15.09 

Clinton  Grapes 57.40  3.51    13.10  7.34    17.87 

Concord  Grapes 63.39  .   ,   .    15.50  1.76    18.49 

Cranberries 47.96  6.58    18.58  6.78    14.37 

White  Currants 53.81  .   .   .    17.46  4.73    32.54 

Black  Raspberries 50.00  .   .   .    19.44  9.60    20.47 

Blackberries 51.43  .   .   .    17.22  5.30    34.13 

Blueberries 31.36  .  .   .    28.03  9.35    39.05 


172 


The  Ho7tir.ulturisV s  Ride- Book. 


{/>)  Analyses  of  Fruit  and  Garden  Products  with  Ref- 
erence TO  their  Fertilizing  Constituents 
8.   Analysis  of  Garden  Crops  and  Fruits  for  Fertilizing  Con- 
stituents.     (  Wolff  and  Goessmann. ) 

one;  THOUSAND   PARTS  OF   THH   PLANTS  CONTAIN: 


Name. 


Corn,  kernels 

stalk  and  leaves  .    . 

Potato,  tubers 

vines         

Peas,  seed 

vines  ... 

Beans,  seed       

vines  

Carrots,  roots  .  _ .       ... 

leaves  '      . 
Sugar  Beet,  roots    .    .    . 

leaves      .    .    . 
White  Turnip,  roots  .    .    . 

leaves 
Swedish  Turnip,  roots  . 

leaves    . 

White  Cabbage,  head    .    . 

roots   .    . 

Savoy  Cabbage,  head    .    . 

Cauliflower 

Horse-radish,  roots    .    .    . 
Spanish  Radish,  roots  .    . 

Parsnip,  roots   

Artichoke,  roots 

Asparagus,  sprouts     .   .    . 
Common  Onion,  bulb    .   . 

Celery 

Spinach 

Common  Lettuce     .... 

Head  Lettuce 

Roman  Lettuce 

Cucumber 

Pumpkin 

Rhubarb,  roots     

stem  and  leaves 

Apples 

Pears 

Cherries 

Plums 

Gooseberries 

Strawberries     

Grapes     

seeds     


144. 
150. 

750- 
770. 

143- 
160. 
150. 
160. 
850. 
822. 
815. 
897- 
920. 
898. 
870 
884. 
900. 
890. 
871. 


767. 
933- 
793- 
811. 
933- 
860. 
841. 
923- 
940. 

943- 

925- 

956- 

900. 

743-5 

916.7 

831. 

831. 

825. 

838. 

903- 

902. 

830. 

no. 


a 

(U 

bo 

j: 

0 

^ 

% 

0 

^ 

< 

0, 

16.0 

12.4 

3-7 

4.8 

45-3 

16.4 

3-4 

9-5 

5-8 

4.9 

19-7 

4-3 

35-8 

234 

10. 1 

10.4 

43-1 

9-9 

39-0 

274 

12.0 

40.2 

.12.8 

2.2 

8.2 

3-0 

51 

23-9 

2.9 

1.6 

71 

3-8 

30 

15-3 

4.0 

1.8 

6.4 

2.9 

3-0 

11.9 

2.8 

2.1 

7-5 

3-5 

3-4 

19-5 

2.8 

3-0 

9.6 

4-3 

2.4 

15-6 

5-8 

5-3 

14.0 

3-9 

4.0 

8.0 

3-6 

4-3 

19.7 

7-7 

1.9 

4-9 

1.6 

5-4 

lO.O 

5-4 

lO.I 

2.4 

3-2 

5-0 

1.2 

2.7 

7-4 

2.5 

2.4 

17.6 

7.6 

4-9 

16.0 

2.7 

8.1 

3-7 

2.2 

lO.I 

3-9 

2.0 

9.8 

2-5 

1.6 

5.8 

24 

I.I 

4-4 

0.9 

5-5 

28.8 

5-3 

1-3 

17.2 

3-6 

0.6 

2.2 

0.8 

0.6 

3-3 

1.8 

3-9 

2.0 

.... 

2.9 

1-7 

3-3 

1-3 

3.3 

0.7 

1-7 

8.8 

5-0 

19.0 

22.7 

6.9 

0.1 

0.5 
0.3 


0.4 

3-2 

1-7 
4-7 
0.6 
2.0 
0.6 
I.I 
0.4 
0.8 
0.8 
1.5 
1.4 
0.5 
0.4 
i.o 
0.2 
0.7 
0.9 
0.2 

H 
0.8 

0.8 

3-5 
0.6 
0.9 

0.3 
0.6 
0.3 
0.1 

0.3 
0.9 
0.1 
0.5 


Elements^  Symbols  and  Analyses. 


173 


Analysis  of  Garden  Crops  and  Fruits,  continued. 

ONE  THOUSAND    PARTS   OF   THE  PLANTS  CONTAIN  , 


Namk. 


Corn,  kernels 

stalk  and  leaves     . 
Potato,  tubers 

vines   

Peas,  seed 

vines    

Beans,  seed 

vines     

Carrots,  roots 

leaves    .   . 

Sugar  Beet,  roots   .... 

leaves     .   .    . 

White  Turnip,  roots     ,   , 

leaves  .   . 

Swedish  Turnip,  roots     . 

leaves  . 

White  Cabbage,  head  .    . 

roots 
Savoy  Cabbage,  head  .   . 

Cauliflower  . 

Horse-radish,  roots  .  .  . 
Spanish  Radish,  roots  . 
Parsnip,  roots  .  . 
Artichoke,  roots  .... 
Asparagus,  sprouts  .  .  . 
Common  Onion,  bulb  .   . 

Celery 

Spinach      

Common  Lettuce  ... 

Head  Lettuce 

Roman  Lettuce 

Cucumber      

Pumpkin 

Rhubarb,  roots 

stem  and  leaves 

Apples 

Pears  

Cherries 

Plums      

Gooseberries 

Strawberries 

Grapes 

seeds       


6 

.3 

re 

s 

4; 

c 

1 
Si 
U 

T3 

0 

'in 

0.3 

1-9 

5-7 

O.I 

0.2 

0.3 

4-9 

2.6 

3.H 

2.4 

0.6 

131 

o-.-i 

0.5 

1.6 

0.6 

0.3 

0.2 

6.4 

3-3 

1.6 

1-3 

1. 1 

0.9 

I.I 

1.9 

8.4 

0.8 

0.4 

0.2 

15-9 

3-5 

3.5 

2.7 

2.3 

2.9 

1-5 

2.1 

9-7 

I.I 

0.3 

C.2 

11. 1 

2.5 

3-9 

1-7 

3.1 

1.9 

0.9 

0.4 

I.I 

0.5 

0.4 

0.2 

7-9 

0.8 

1.0 

1.8 

2.4 

2.4 

0.4 

0.6 

0.9 

0.3 

0-3 

0.2 

3-1 

1-7 

0.7 

0.8 

1-3 

1.6 

0.7 

0.2 

0.8 

0.7 

0-3 

O.I 

3-9 

0.5 

0.9 

I.I 

1.2 

05 

0.9 

0.3 

I.I 

0.7 

0.5 

O.I 

6.5 

0.8 

2.0 

2.3 

1-5 

2.1 

1.2 

0.4 

I.I 

1-3 

0-5 

O.I 

2.8 

0.6 

1.4 

2.4 

1-3 

O.I 

3-0 

0.5 

2.1 

1.2 

I.I 

0.7 

0.5 

0.3 

1.6 

1.0 

0.3 

0.3 

2.0 

0.4 

2.0 

4-9 

0.3 

I..S 

0.7 

0.2 

0.5 

0.3 

0.5 

I.I 

0.6 

1.9 

0.5 

0.4 

0.2 

I.O 

0.4 

I.I 

1-3 

0.5 

O.I 

0.6 

0.2 

0.9 

0.3 

0.3 

0.5 

1.6 

0.3 

1-3 

0.4 

0.2 

0.7 

2.3 

1.0 

2.2 

i.o 

2.8 

0.7 

1-9 

:.o 

1.6 

I.I 

1.0 

0.7 

0.5 

0.2 

0.7 

0.3 

-  0.4 

1.3 

I. .5 

0.6 

1.0 

0.4 

0.8 

0.8 

1.2 

0.4 

I.I 

0.4 

0.4 

0.3 

0.4 

0.2 

1.2 

0.4 

0.4 

0.5 

0.3 

0.2 

1.6 

0.1 

0.3 

5-0 
3-4 
0.1 

1.6 
1-3 
0.2 

0.6 
0.2 

0.3 

o.i 

O.I 

0.3 

0.2 

0.5 

0.2 

O.I 

0.3 

0.2 

0.6 

0.2 

o.i 

0.4 

0.3 

0.2 

0.4 

0.1 

O.I 

0.4 

0.2 

0.7 

0.2 

.   .    . 

O.I 

0.5 

0.5 

0.1 

0.1 

0.4 

1.0 

0.4 

1.4 

0.5 

O.I 

0.3 

5.6 

1.4 

7.0 

0.8 

O.I    1 

0.2 

174  ^^^^   Horticidtiirisf  s  Rule- Book. 

Analyses,  continued. 

9.     Aip'ple.-Foynact. 

Water 69.90 

Ash 0.71 

Albuminoids 1.58 

Fiber 4.87 

Nitrogen-free  extract 21.24 

Fat 1.71 


100.00 
10.  .  Cranberry-Vines. 

Moisture  at  100°  C.  .   .   .13.07  Phosphoric  acid 0.268 

Nitrogen 0.77  Magnesium  oxide  ....  0.253 

Ash  constituents  ....    2.45  Sodium  oxide 0.080 

Ferric  oxide 0.087  Potassium  oxide   ....  0.329 

Calcium  oxide 0.404  Insoluble  matter  ....  0.834 

11.     Corn- Fodder. 

Moisture  at  100°  C.  .   .   .  24.87  Potassium  oxide   ....  1.465 

Nitrogen 0.995      Sodium  oxide 0.794 

Phosphoric  acid 0.201      Ferric  oxide 0.026 

Calcium  oxide 0.310  Insoluble  matter   ....  1.318 

Magnesium  oxide  ....    0.093 

12.     Corn-Kernel.  New. 

Water 20.00 

Ash 1.25 

Albuminoids 8.06 

Fiber 1.54 

Nitrogen-free  extract 65.38 

Fat 3.77 


100.00 
13.     Pea-straw. 

Potash 4.73 

Lime 54.91 

Magnesia 0.88 

Oxide  of  iron 0.40 

Oxide  of  manganese 0. 15 

Phosphoric  acid 4.83 


Elements,   Symbols  and  Analyses.  175 

Analyses,  continued. 

Sulphuric  acid 6.77 

Chlorine 0.09 

Alumina 1.21 

Silica 20.03 


100.00 
14.     Pea8. 

Potash 36.05 

Soda 7.42 

Lime 5.29 

Magnesia 18.46 

Oxide  of  iron O.99 

Phosphoric  acid 33.29 

Sulphuric  acid 4.36 

Chloride  of  sodium 3.13 

Silica 0.51 


100.00 
15.     Beti^  Egyptian  Turnip. 

Moisture  at  100°  C.  .    .   .  85.800  Magnesium  oxide     .   .   .  0.035 

Nitrogen 0.177  Sodium  oxide 0.061 

Phosphoric  acid    ....    0.070  Ferric  oxide 0.003 

Potassium  oxide   ....    0.303  Insoluble  matter   ....  0.018 

Calcium  oxide 0.049 

16.     Carrots. 

Moisture  at  100°  C.    .    .   .90.02  Potassium  oxide     ....  0.54 

Ferric  oxide 0.01      Sodium  oxide 0.11 

Phosphoric  acid 0.10      Nitrogen 0.14 

Magnesium  oxide  ....    0.02  Insoluble  matter     ....  0.01 

Calcium  oxide 0.07 

17.     Turnip,  Ruta-haga. 

Moisture  at  100°  C.  .   .   .  87.230  Magnesium  oxide     .  .   .  0.030 

Nitrogen 0.211  Sodium  oxide 0.051 

Phosphoric  acid    ....    0.130  Ferric  oxide 0.002 

Potassium  oxide  ....    0.546  Insoluble  matter   ....  0.001 

Calcium  oxide 0. 106 


176 


The  HorticulturisV  s  Rule-Book. 


Analyses,  continued. 

(c.)     Analyses  of  Animal  Excrements. 
IS.     Common  Barn-yard  Manure,  Fresh. 


Water 

Organic  substance 

Ash 

Nitrogen        .   .    .   , 

Potash 

Soda 


710.0  Lime 

*^46.0  Magnesia 

44.1  Phosphoric  acid  .   .   . 

4.5  Sulphuric  acid     .   .    . 

5.2  Silica  and  sand    .   .    . 

1.5  Chlorine  and  fluorine 


19.     Common  Barn-yard  Manure,  Moderately  Rotted. 


Water     750.0 

Organic  substance     .   .   .  192.0 

Ash 58.0 

Nitrogen 5.0 

Potash 6.3 

Soda 1.9 


Lime 

Magnesia 

Phosphoric  acid  .  .  . 
Sulphuric  acid  .  .  . 
Silica  and  sand  .  .  . 
Chlorine  and  fluorine 


20.     Common  Barn-yard  Manure,  Thoroughly  Rotted. 


Water     

Organic  substance 

Ash 

Nitrogen     .... 

Potash 

Soda , 


790.0  Lime 

145.0  Magnesia 

65.0  Phosphoric  acid  .   .    . 

5.8  Sulphuric  acid     .    .    . 

5.0  Silica  and  sand    .    .    . 

1.3  Chlorine  and  fluorine 


21.     Cattle-Feces,  Fresh. 


Water     838.0 

Organic  substance     .   .   .  145.0 

Ash 17.3 

Nitrogen 2.9 

Potash 1.0 

Soda 0.2 


Lime 

Magnesia 

Phosphoric  acid  .  .  . 
Sulphuric  acid  .  .  . 
Silica  and  sand  .  .  . 
Chlorine  and  fluorine 


22.     Cattle-TJrine,  Fresh. 


Water     938.0 

Organic  substance     ...    35.0 

Ash 27.4 

Nitrogen 5.8 

Potash 4.9 

Soda 6.4 


Lime 

Magnesia 

Sulphuric  acid  .  .  . 
Silica  and  sand  .  .  . 
Chlorine  and  fluorine 


5.7 
1.4 
2.1 
L2 
12.5 
1.5 


7.0 
l.S 
2.6 
1.6 
16.8 
1.9 


1.8 
3.0 
1.3 
17.0 
1.6 


3.4 
1.3 
1.7 
0.4 
7.2 
0.2 


0.1 
0.4 
1.3 
0.3 

3.8 


Elements,  Syvibois  and  Analyses. 


177 


Analyses,  continued. 


23.     Horse-Feces,  Fresh. 


Water      757.0 

Organic  substance     .   .   .  211.0 

Ash 31.6 

Nitrogen 4.4 

Potash 3.5 

Soda 0.6 


Lime 1.5 

Magnesia 1.2 

Phosphoric  acid 8.5 

Sulphuric  acid     0.6 

Silica  and  sand 19.6 

Chlorine  and  fluorine    .    .  0.2 


24.     Horse-Urine,  Fresh. 


Water 901.0 

Organic  substance     .   .    .    71.0 

Ash 28.0 

Nitrogen 15.5 

Potash 15.0 

Soda 2.5 


Lime 4.5 

Magnesia 2.4 

Sulphuric  acid 0.6 

Silica  and  sand 0.8 

Chlorine  and  fluorine    .   .  1.5 


25.     Shecp-Feces,  Fresh. 


Water      655.0 


Organic  substance 

Ash 

Nitrogen 

Potash 

Soda 


314.0 

31.1 

5.5 

1.5 

1.0 


Lime 4.6 

Magnesia 1.5 

Phosphoric  acid 3.1 

Sulphuric  acid     1.4 

Silica  and  sand 17.5 

Chlorine  and  fluorine    .    .  0.3 


26.     Sheep-Urine,  Fresh. 


Water 872.0 

Organic  substance     ...    83.0 

Ash 45.2 

Niti'Ogen 19.5 

Potash 22.6 

Soda 5.4 


Lime 1.6 

Magnesia 3.4 

Phosphoric  acid 0.1 

Sulphuric  acid 3.0 

Silica  and  sand 0.1 

Chlorine  and  fluorine    .    .  5.5 


Water 

Organic  substance 

Ash 

Nitrogen 

Potifsh 


27.  Swine-Feces,  Fresh. 

.    .  .  820.0      Lime 0.9 

.   .  .  150.0      Magnesia 1.0 

.   .  .    30.0      Phosphoric  acid 4.1 

.    .  .      6.0      Sulphuric  acid 0.4 

.    .  .      2.6      Silica  and  sand 15.0 

0.3 


Soda 2.5      Chlorine  and  fluorine 


178 


The   Horticulturisf  s   Rule- Book. 


Analyses,  continued. 


28.     Stuine-Urine,  Fresh. 


Water     967.0 

Organic  substance    .  .   .    28.0 

Ash 15.0 

Nitrogen 4.3 

Potash 8.3 


Soda 

Magnesia 

Phosphoric  acid  .   .   . 
Sulphuric  acid     .   . 
Chlorine  and  fluorine 


2.1 
0.8 
0.7 
0.8 
2.3 


29.     Human  Feces,  Fresh. 


Water     772.0 

Organic  substance     .   .   ,  198.0 

Ash 29.9 

Nitrogen 10.0 

Potash 2.5 

Soda 1.6 


Lime 

Magnesia   .  . 
Phosphoric  acid 
Sulphuric  acid 
Silica  and  sand 
Chlorine  and  fluorine 


6.2 
3.6 
10.9 
0.8 
1.9 
0.4 


30.     Humayi  Urine,  Fresh. 


Water      963.0 

Organic  substance    ...    24.0 

Ash 13.5 

Nitrogen 6.0 

Potash 2.0 

Soda 4.6 


Lime 0.2 

Magnesia 0.2 

Phosphoric  acid 1.7 

Sulphuric  acid     0.4 

Chlorine  and  fluorine    .   .  5.0 


31.     Hen-Manure,  Fresh. 


Water     560.0 

Organic  substance    .   .    .  255.0 

Ash 185.0 

Nitrogen 16.3 

Potash 8.5 

Soda 1.0 


Lime 

Magnesia    .   .   . 
Phosphoric  acid 
Sulphuric  acid 
Silica  and  sand 


24.0 
7.4 

15.4 
4.5 

35.2 


Water      771.0 

Organic  substance     .   .    .  134.0 

Ash 95.0 

Nitrogen 5.5 

Potash 9.5 

Soda 1.3 


32.     Goose-Manure,  Fresh. 

Lime 8.4 

Magnesia 2.0 

Phosphoric  acid 5.4 

Sulphuric  acid 1.4 

Silica  and  sand    ....*.  14.0 


Ele7nents,   Symbols  aiid  Analyses. 


179 


Analyses,  continued. 


33.     Dxick-Manure,  Fresh. 


Water     566.0 

Organic  substance     .   .   .  262. 0 

Ash 172.0 

Nitrogen 10.0 

Potash 6.2 

Soda 0.5 


Lime 17.0 

Magnesia 3.5 

Phosphoric  acid 14.0 

Sulphuric  acid     3.5 

Silica  and  sand 28.0 


34.     Dove-Manure,  Fresh. 


Water     519.0 

Organic  substance    .   .   .  308.0 

Ash 173.0 

Nitrogen 17.6 

Potash 10.0 

Soda 0.7 


Lime 16.0 

Magnesia 5.0 

Phosphoric  acid 17.8 

Sulphuric  acid 3.3 

Silica  and  sand 20.2 


(d.)    Analyses  of  Various  Materials  which  are  used  for 
Fertilizers. 

35.     Peruvian  Guano. 


Moisture  at  100°  C.  .  .  .12.17 
Total  phosphoric  acid  .  .  18.45 
Soluble  phosphoric  acid  .  1.54 
Reverted  phosphoric  acid  5.92 
Insoluble  phosphoiic  acid  10.99 
Potassium  oxide     .   .    .   .    3.46 


Total  nitrogen      5.13 

Actual  ammonia  ...  3.94 
Organic  nitrogen  ....  0.86 
Nitrogen  as  nitric  acid  .  0.33 
Insoluble  matter     ....  13.64 


36.      Oak-Leaves. 


Moisture  at  100°  C.  .  .  .  9.601 
Organic  matter  ....  83.360 
Mineral  matter     .    .    .    .    6.840 

Ferric  oxide 0.027 

Calcium  oxide 0.548 

Magnesium  oxide     .   .   .    0.267 


Potassium  oxide   ....  0,549 

Phosphoric  acid    ....  0.058 

Nitrogen 0.930 

Soluble  silica 0.018 

Insoluble  silica 4.333 


37.     Sea- Weed.     (Two  samples.) 

I. 

Moisture  at  100°  C 12.05 

Nitrogen 1.66 

Phosphoric  acid 0.44 


II. 
14.96 

.L28 
0.17 


i8o  The  Horticulturisf  s  Rule- Book. 

Analyses,  continued. 

Potassium  oxide 3.81  0.36 

Calcium  oxide    .   .   •   • 2.73  3.86 

Magnesium  oxide 1.48  1.30 

Sodium  oxide 11.75  8.40 

Chlorine 6.40  5.28 

Insoluble  matter 7.73  0.78 

38.     Tobacco-Stems. 

Water 13.47 

Organic  and  volatile  matters  (containing  nitrogen  1.93)    .   .  70.85 
Ash  (containing  phosphoric  acid,  .53) 15.68 


100.00 

39.    Dissolved  Bone-Black. 
This  material  is  a  superphosphate  prepared  by  treating  refuse 
bone-black  from  sugar-refineries  with  oi    of  \'itriol,  which  ren- 
ders nearly  all  the  phosphoric  acid  soluble  in  water. 

Soluble  phosphoric  acid 14.55 

Reverted  phosphoric  acid 2.39 

Insoluble  phosphoric  acid 0.20 

40.     Bone-Black. 

Moisture  at  100°  C.    ...    5.04     Phosphoric  acid 16.56 

Ash 67.43      Insoluble  matter     ....    0.37 

41.    Bone  Charcoal. 
Moisture  at  100°  C.    .   .   .  18.16      Reverted  phosphoric  acid    6.18 

Ash .72.24      Insoluble  phosphoric  acid  20.02 

Total  phosphoric  acid  .    ,  25.58      Insoluble  matter     ....    0.69 
Soluble  phosphoric  acid  .    0.38 

42.     Ground  Bones.     (Two  samples.) 

I.  II. 

Moisture  at  100°  C 3.97  12.43 

Ash      49.35  64.21 

Total  phosphoric  acid 19.49  25.67 

Reverted  phosphoric  acid 3.80         6.20 

Insoluble  phosphoric  acid 15.69  19.34 

Nitrogen 4.04         2.68 

Insoluble  matter 0.78         0.42 


Eleme7its,   Symbols  a?id  Analyses.  i8i 

Analyses,  continued. 

43.     DriM  Blood. 
Moisture 15.02      Nitrogen 8.24 

44.     Dt^  Ground  Fish. 

Moisture  at  100°  C. 8.34 

Ash 37.76 

Total  phosphoric  acid 8.23 

Soluble  phosphoric  acid 0.10 

Reverted  phosphoric  acid 3.81 

Insoluble  phosphoric  acid 4.32 

Nitrogen 6.81 

Insoluble  matter     0.82 

45.     Sulphate  of  Ammonia. 

This  article,  now  manufactured  on  a  large  scale  as  a  by-prod- 
uct of  gas-works,  usually  contains  over  20  per  cent,  of  nitrogen, 
the  equivalent  of  from  94  to  97  per  cent,  of  sulphate  of  ammonia. 
The  rest  is  chiefly  moisture. 
Nitrogen 20.02      Equivalent  ammonia   .   .  24.30 

46.     Sulphate  of  Potash.     (Two  samples.) 

The  double  sulphate  of  potash  and  magnesia  is  usually  sold  as 
"  sulphate  of  potash. " 

I.  II. 

Actual  potash     27.76        51.28 

Equivalent  sulphate  of  potash 51.3          94.80 

47.     Sulphate  of  Magnesia. 

Moisture  at  100°  C.    .   .    .  29.01      Sulphuric  acid        .   .    .   .30.35 
Magnesium  oxide  .    .    .    .15.87      Insoluble  matter     ....    6.29 

48.     Nitrate  of  Soda. 

Nitrate  of  soda  is  mined  in  Chile  and  purified  there  before  ship- 
ment. It  usually  contains  about  16  per  cent,  of  nitrogen,  equiv- 
alent to  97  per  cent,  of  pure  nitrate  of  soda.  It  contains  besides, 
a  little  salt  and  some  moisture. 

Moisture 35      Sulphate  of  soda     ....    0.21 

iSalt  (sodium  chloride)  .  .      .23     Pure  nitrate  of  soda  .   .   .  99.21 


1 82  The  Horticulturist s   Rule-Book. 

Analyses,  continued. 

49.     Muriate  of  Potasli.     (Two  samples.) 

Commercial  muriate  of  potash  consists  of  about  80  per  cent,  of 
muriate  of  potash  (potassium  chloride; ;  15  per  cent,  or  more  of 
common  salt  (sodium  chloride),  and  -i  per  cent,  or  more  of  water. 

I.  II. 

Actual  potash  .   .  50.0        52.62 

Equivalent  muriate 79.2        83.70 

50.     German  Potash  Salts — Average  of  11  Analyses. 

Moisture  at  100°  C.    .   .    .13.14  Magnesium  oxide   ....    9.25 

Potassium  oxide     .    .    .    .21.63  Sulphuric  acid 10.85 

Sodium  oxide 13.76  Chlorine 35.63 

Calcium  oxide 0.85  Insoluble  matter     ....    2.08 

51.     Kainit—Aver'age  of  3  Analyses. 

Moisture  at  100°  C.     .   .   .    9.26  Magnesium  oxide   ....    8.97 

Potassium  oxide     .    .    .    .14.04  Sulphuric  acid 21.05 

Sodium  oxide       21.38  Chlorine 32.38 

Calcium  oxide 1.12  Insoluble  matter     ....    0.89 

52.  Land-Plaster  or  Gypsum. 

Hydra  ted  sulphate  of  lime     74.88 

Matters  insoluble  in  acid 1.28 

Moisture 1.18 

Other  matters  chiefly  carbonate  of  lime  .  .   .    .  , 22.66 

53.  Ashes  (Wood),  Unleached. 

Moisture  at  100°  C 15.72 

Calcium  oxide 28.61 

Magnesium  oxide 3.00 

Ferric  oxide 1.03 

Potassium  oxide 8.72 

Phosphoric  acid 0.32 

Insoluble  matter,  before  calcination 18.49 

"  after  "  13.12 

54.    Ashes  (Wood),  Leached. 

Moisture  at  100°  C 13.72 

Calcium  oxide 48.07 


Elements,  Symbols  and  Analyses.  183 

Analyses,  continued. 

Magnesium  oxide 6.06 

Ferric  oxide 0.68 

Potassium  oxide 1.92 

Phosphoric  acid 1.79 

Insoluble  matter,  before  calcination 5.49 

"  after  '^  2.57 

55.     Coal-Aihc8,  Bituminous. 

Water 5.0  Soda 0.4 

Organic  substance   ....    5.0  Magnesia     3.2 

Ash 95.0  Phosphoric  acid 0.2 

Potash 0.4  Sulphuric  acid 8.5 

56.     Coal-Ashes,  Anthracite. 

Water 5.0  Soda 0.1 

Organic  substance  ....    5.0  Magnesia     3.0 

Ash 90.0  Phosphoric  acid    .   .       .   .  0,1 

Potash 0.1  Sulphuric  acid 5.0 

57.    Gas-Lime — Average  of  4  Analyses. 

Moisture  at  100°  C.    .   .   .  22.28      Sulphuric  acid* 20.73 

Calcium  oxide 42.66      Insoluble  matter     ....    6.05 

Magnesium  oxide   ....    8.30 

*  Sulphuric  acid  includes  all  forms  of  sulphur  present. 

(e.)  Trade  Values  for  1891  of  Fertilizing  Ingredients  in 
Raw  Materials  and  Chemicals.  Adopted  by  Experiment 
Stations  of  Mass.,  New  Jersey,  Penn.  and  Conn. 

Cts. 
per  lb. 

Nitrogen  in  ammoniates 18)^ 

"  nitrates       14)^ 

Organic  nitrogen  in  dry  and  fine  ground  fish,  meat  and  blood .  15)^ 
cotton-seed  meal  and  castor-pomace  .   .  15 

fine  bono  and  tankage 15 

fine  medium  bone  and  tankage 12 

medium  bone  and  tankage 9)^ 

coarser  bone  and  tankage 7)^ 

hair,  horn-shavings  and  coarse  fish-scrap  7 


184  The  HorticulturisV  s  Rule- Book, 

Analyses,  continued. 

Phosphoric  acid,  soluble  in  water 8 

"  "  ammonium  citrate 7)^ 

"  "  dry  gi'ound  fish,  fine  bone  and 

tankage    7 

"                ''            fine-medium  bone  and  tankage  .  h}^, 
"               "            medium  bone  and  tankage    .   .   .  4)^ 
"               "            coarser  bone  and  tankage    ...  3 
Potash  as  high-grade  sulphate  and  in  forms  free  from  mur- 
iate (or  chlorides) 53^ 

"  muriate 4>^ 


<*^*^r#b 


"■A  man  might  almost  as  well  draw  a  check  on  a 
bank  in  which  he  has  made  no  deposit,  as  to  plant  seed 
and  fruit  in  poor  graund." 

— E.  P.  Roe. 


CHAPTER   XXI. 


Names,   Histories  and  Statistics. 

I.    Vegetables  which   have  different   Names  in   England   and 
America. 

In  America.  In  England. 

Artichoke  {Helianthus  tuherosxis)   .   .  Jerusalem  artichoke. 

Bean Kidney  -  bean,  or   French 

bean. 

Beet     Beet-root. 

Lima  bean      Lima  kidney-bean. 

Muskmelon Melon. 

Parsnip Parsnep,  in  many  old  books. 

Pepper Capsicum. 

Pumpkin Vegetable  marrow.    Gourd. 

Rutabaga      Turnip-rooted    cabbage, 

Swedish  turnip. 

Salsify        Salsafy. 

Squash Pumpkin.    Gourd. 

'•       Scallop Custard-marrow. 

"      Winter  Crookncck Muskmelon,  rarely. 

Swiss  chard Leaf-beet. 

Turnip Turnep  in  many  old  fcooks. 


(185) 


1 86  The  HorticulhirisV  s  Rule- Book. 


3.     Names  of  Fruits  and  Vege 

English.  French.  German. 

Almond Amandier Mandel 

Apple Pommier Apfel 

Apricot Abricotier Aprikose 

Artichoke Artichaut Artischoke 

Asparagus     ....  Asperg-e Spargel 

Banana Banar.^er    ...       Pisang ' 

Bean.  Broad.    .   .    .  Feve  de  Marais f  Grosse  Bohne  and  Gar- 1 

<-     ten  Bohne ) 

Bean,  Kidney  .    .    .  Haricot Tiircksche  Bohne 

Beet     Betterave Rothe  Riibe 

Berberrj' Epine  vinette Berberitzenstrauch    .... 

Blackcurrant.   .    .  Cassis  and  Groseille  noir  .  Schwartzejohannisbeere  . 

Borecole Chou  vert,or  Non  pomme    Griiner  Kohl 

Broccoli Broccoli  and  Chau  brocolis  .  Italienischer  Kohl 

Brussels  Sprouts     .  Choude  Bruxellesor  a  jets  Sprossen  Kohl 

Cabbage Chou  pomme  or  Cabus    .   .  Kopf  kohl 

Cardoon Cardon Kardon 

Carrot Carotte Mohre  or  Gelbe  Riibe  .   .   . 

Cauliflower  ...  Chou-fleur        Blumen  Kohl 

Celery        Celeri Sellerie 

Cherry Cerisier Kirsche 

Chicory  or  Succor>' ChicoreeSauvage Geineine  Cichorie 

Cress,  Garden     .    .  Cresson Gemeine  Garten  Kresse  .   . 

"      Water   .   .    .  Cresson  de  Fontaine    .    .    .  Briinnen  Kresse 


"      Winter.   .    .  Cresson  de  Terre  ^ Winter  Kresse 

Cucumber     ....  Concombre Gurke 

Egg-plant Melongene,  Aubergine    .   .  Tollapfel  and  Eierpflanze  . 

Endive iChicoree   des  Jardins,  En-j^^^j^j^ 

<^dive ) 

Fig Figuier Feige 

Filbert Noisette ■  .    .  Nussbaum 

Garlic     Ail Knoblauch 

Gooseberry  ....  Groseiller  a  Maquereau     .  Stachelbeere 

Grape Vigne Traube  and  Weintrauben  . 

Horse-«adish    .   .    .  Cranson  or  le  Grand  Raifort  Meerrettig 

Kohl-rabiorTur-|(.j^^^.^^^,^ Kohl  Rabi 

nip-cabbage  .   .  -• 

Leek Poireau f  Gemeiner  Lauch  or  Porro  | 

*.     Zwiebe i 

Lemon Limonier Limonie 

Lettuce Laitue Gartensalat  and  Lattich     . 

Melon,  Musk    .    .    .  Melon Melone 


Names  and  Histories. 


187 


tables  in  Various  Languages. 

Dutch.  Italian.  Spanish. 

Amandelboom Mandorlo Almendro. 

Appelboom Melo  or  Pomo  ...  Manzana. 

Abrikozenboom Albicocco Albaricoqi  e. 

Artisjok CacJofo Cinauco. 

Aspergie Asparago  or  Sparagio  .   .  Esparrago. 

Bananenboom. 

Boon 


Fava Haba. 


Turksche  Boon Faginolo 

Beetvvortel  or  Karoot    .    .  Barba  bietola 

Barbarisse Berbero 

Aalbessenboom Ribes  nero 

Grone  Kool Cavolo  aperto 

Scotsche  Kool Broccoli      

Spruit  Kool. 

Kool Cavolo 

Spaansche  Artisjok   .    .    .  Cardon   .    .    .  ' 

Gerle  Wortel Carota 

Bloem  Kool Cavoli  fiori 

Selderij Appio 

Keresenboom Ciriegia 

Suikerei Cicoria 

Tuinkers Cresciio 

Waterkers Crescione  di  Sorgenti  . 

Winterkers Erba  di  Santa  Barbarea 


Judias  and  Fasoles. 
.  Betarraga. 
Berberis. 
Grosella  negro. 
Col. 
Broculi. 

Berza. 
Cardo. 
Chirivia. 
Berza  florida. 
Appio  hortense. 
Cerezo. 
Achicoria. 
.  Mastuerzo. 
Berro. 
Hierba  de  Santa  Barb- 

bara. 
Pepino  or  Cohombro. 
Berengena. 


Komkommer Citriuolo 

Dolappel    ....*....  Melanza 

Andijvie Indivia .   .      Endivia. 

Vijgenboom Fico Higuera- 

Hazel notenboom     ....  Avellano Avellano. 

Knoflook Aglio Ajo. 

Kruisbessenboom  ....  Uva-spina Uva-crespas. 

Druif Vigna Vina. 

Rammenas Ramolaccio Rabano  picante. 


Look  or  Prei 


Porro Puerro. 


Limoenboom Limoen Liiuon. 

Latouw Lattuga Lechuga. 

Meloen Mellone  and  Popone     .    .  Melon. 


i88  The  Horticulturist' s  Rule-Book. 

Names  of  Fruits  and  Vegetables  in 

English.  French.  German. 

Mint,  common     .   .  Menthe  des  jardins  ....  Munze 

Mulberry Murier Maulbeere 

Mushroom    ....  Champignon  comestible     .  Essbare  Blatterschwamme 

Mustard Moutarde Senf 

Nectarine  .       ...  Peche  lisse Nectarpfirsch 

Olive Olivier Oelbaum  and  Olive  .... 

Onion Oignon Zwiebel 

Orange Oranger Pomeranze 

Orach Arroche Meldekraut 

Parsley Persil Petersilie 

Parsnip Panais Pastinake 

Pea Pois     Erbse 

Peach Pecher    . Pfirsiche 

Pear Poirier Birne 

Pepper Piment Spanischer  Pfeffer 

Pine-apple     ....  Ananas Ananas 

Plum Prunier  .   .    .  '. Pflaume 

Pomegranate  .    .   .  Grenadier Granatenbaum 

Potato Pomme  de  Terre Kartoffel       

Pumpkin  or  Gourd  Courge Kiirbis 

Quince Coig^nassier QuiUe 

Radish Radis  and  Rave Rettig  and  Radies     .... 

Rape Navette Repskohl 

Red  Currant     .    .   .  Groseiller  commun    ....  Gemeine  Johannisbeere  .    . 

Rhubarb Rhubarbe Rhabarber 

Sage Sauge Salbey 

Salsify Salsifis Haferwurzel  and  Bocksbart 

Savoy jChou  de  Milan  or  pomme   l  wirsing  or  Herzkohl  .   . 

«-     fraise ) 

Sea-kale Chou  marin  and  Crambe    .  Meerkohl 

Spinach Epinard     Spinat 

Strawberry  ....  Fraisier Erdbeer 

Sweet  Chestnut  .   .  Chataignier  and  Marronier  Castanien 

Thyme Thym      Thimian 

Tomato Tomate Liebesapfel       

Turnip Navet Rube 

Walnut Noyer     Wallnuss 

White  Currant     .   .  vjroseiller  commun    .   .    .    .  Gemeine  Johannisbeere    . 
Watermelon     .   .    ,  Melon  d'Eau Wassermelone 


Names  and  Histories.  189 

Various  Languages,  continued. 

Dutch.  Italian.  Spanish. 

Munt Erba  Sta.  Maria     .    .    .    .  Menta. 

Moerbezieboom Moro Moral. 

Kampernoelio Pratajuolo  bianco  ....  Seta. 

Mosterd Senapa Mostaza. 

Kale  Perzik Brugnuolo Especie  de  Durazno. 

Olijfboom Ulivo Olivo. 

Uijen CipoUa Cebolla. 

Oranjeboom      Arancio Naranja. 

Melde Atreplice Armuelle. 

Pieterselie Petroseline Perejil. 

Pinksternakel Pastinaca Chirivia  and  Pastinaca. 

Erwt Pisello Guisante. 

Perzikboom Persico Alberchigo 

Perenboom Pero Pera 

Spaansche  Peper    .    .    .      Peberone Pimiento. 

Ananas Ananas Pina 

Pruinboom Prungo Ciruelo. 

Granaatboom Melagrano Granada. 

Aardappel (  Tartufi  bianchi  or  Porno   |  Batatas  Inglezas. 

y     di  Terra     . > 

Kauworde Zucca      Calabaza. 

Kweeboom Cotogno      Membrillo. 

Radijs     Rafano Rabano. 

Rapskool Nape  salvatico Naba  silvestre. 

Aalbessenboom Ribes  rosso Grosella. 

Rabarber Rabarbaro Ruibarbo. 

Salie .Salvia Salvia. 

Boksbaard Sassifica Barba  Cabruna. 

Savojie  Kool Cappuccio Berza  de  Saboya. 

Zeekool Cranibe  marina Col  marina. 

Spinazie Spinace Espinaca. 

Aardbezienplant    ....  Piantadifragola Fresa. 

Kastanjeboom Castagno Castano. 

GemeeneThyne  .    .       .    .  Timo   ...       Tomillo. 

jAppelties    der   Hefde  |  p^^^^  j,  q^.^ Tomate 

I     and  Tomaat     .   .   .  •' 

Raap Navone Nabo. 

Walnotenboom Noce Noguera. 

Aalbessenboom Ribes  rosso Grosella. 

Sandia. 


igo  The   HorticuLturisV s   Rule- Book. 

3.     Derivation    of  the  Names    of    Various    Fruits    and 
Vegetables. 

a.     Fruits. 

Apple.— Anglo-Saxon,  ceppel. 

Apricot.— Indirectly  from  Latin  ptcecox,  early. 

Blackberry.— From  the  color  of  the  fruit. 

Cherry.— Anglo-Saxon,  cirse. 

Cranberry.— Crane-berry,  from  the  slender  pedicel  of  the  Euro 
pean  species. 

Currant. — Corruption  of  Corinth,  Greece,  whence  came  tho 
"  dried  currants  "  (grapes) ,  which  were  once  called  Corinths. 

Gooseberry.— Gorse-berry,  because  the  fruit  is  often  rough  like 
the  gorse,  an  European  plant. 

Grape.— French,  gi^appe;  allied  to  the  word  grapple. 

Lemon.— French,  limon. 

Mulberry. — German,  mulber,  indirectly  from  Latin  moi-us,  a  mul- 
berry tree. 

Nectarine.— Nectar-like. 

Orange. — Latin,  aurum,  gold. 

Peach, — Corruption  of  Persia,  whence  the  fruit  was  early  ob- 
tained. 

Pear. — Pirum,  the  Latin  name. 

Plum. — Anglo-Saxon,  pluma;  indirectly  from  Latin  prunum,  a 
plum. 

Quince. — Corruption  of  Cydonia^  the  Lation  name,  from  Cydon. 

Raspberry.— From  rasp,  referring  to  the  character  of  the  plant. 

Strawberry. — In  early  times  the  berries  were  strung  on  sti-aws 
when  sold. 

b.     Vegetables. 

Artichoke.— Italian,  articiocco;  indirectly  from  the  Arabic. 

Asparagus. — The  Latin  name. 

Bean. — The  Anglo-Saxon  name. 

Beet.— Latin,  beta,  the  beet-plant. 

Cabbage.— French,  cabus,  from  the  Latin  caput,  a  head. 

Carrot. — French,  carotte,  from  Latin  ccrota,  the  carrot. 

Brussels  sprouts.— From  Brussels,  Belgium. 

Cauliflower. — Latin,  caulis,  stem,  and  flower. 

Celery.— Latin,  selinon,  parsley. 


Names,  Histories  and  Statistics. 


191 


Derivation  of  the  Names  of  Fruits  and  Vegetables,  continued. 

Chervil. — Anglo-Saxon,  cerfiUe,  indirectly  from  a  Greek  combina- 
tion signifying"  '-pleasant-leaf." 
Chives  or  Gives.— Latin,  cepa,  onion. 
Corn.-^Anglo-Saxon,  corn. 
Cress.— Old  German,  kresan,  to  creep. 
Cacumber. — Latin,  cucumis. 

Egg-plant. — From  the  egg-shaped  fruit  of  some  varieties. 
Endive. — French,  endive,  indirectly  from  the  Latin  mtuhus.  the 

endive  or  chicory. 
Garlic. — Anglo-Saxon,  gar  and  leak,  spear-leaf,  referring  to  the 

shape  and  position  of  the  leaves. 
Gnnibo. — Portuguese,  quingombo,  from  quiUobo,  an  African  name. 
Horse-radish. — Refers,   evidently,   to   the   strong  and   pungent 
character  of  the  roots  by  reference  to  the  strength  of  the 
horse. 
Kohlrabi. — Corruption  of  the  Latin  caulo-rapa,  stem-turnip. 
Leek.— Anglo-Saxon,  leac  or  leak. 
Lettnce. — Latin,  lactuca,  the  lettuce ;  from  lac.  milk,  referring  to 

the  milky  juice  of  the  plant. 
Melon. — Latin,  melo,  a  certain  small  melon. 
Mushroom. — French,  mousseron,  alluding  to  mousse,  or  moss,  in 

Avhich  some  mushrooms  grow. 
Mustard. — French,  mustarde,  from  Latin  mustum,  the  must,  with 

which  mustard  was  mixed. 
Onion. — French,  oignon;  indirectly  from  Latin  unus,  one,  unis, 
oneness,  in  allusion  to  a  plant  of  which  the  oulb  was  formed 
of  one  piece. 
Parsley.— From  a  Greek  combination  meaning  -'rock-parsley," 

a  parsley-like  plant. 
Parsnip. — Latin,  pastinaca. 

Pea. — French,  pois,  evidently  from  Latin  pisum,  the  pea. 
Pepper,  Red. — Latin ,  ptper,  the  true  pepper  or  black  pepper,  with 

which  the  present  plant  is  compared  in  pungency. 
Potato. — Spanish  and  Portuguese,  batata,  probably  an  aboriginal 

American  name.     First  applied  to  the  sweet-potato. 
Pumpkin.— French,  pompion,  from  Latin  pepo,  a  pumpkin-like 

fruit. 
Badish. — Latin,  radix,  root. 


192  The  Horticulhirisf  s  Rule- Book. 

Derivation  of  the  Karnes  of  Fruits  and  Vegetables,  continued. 
Rhubarb.— French,  rlmbarhe,;  probably   indirectly  from  Latin. 

barhai-us,  foreign. 
Sage.— Latin,  salvus,  saved,  evidently  in  allusion  to  medicinal 

properties  of  the  plant. 
Salsify.— French,  salsifts. 
Spinach  or  Spinage.— Latin,  spinacia,   spinach,  from  spina,  a 

thorn,  in  reference  to  the  prickly  character  of  the  plant. 
Squash. — American  Indian,  asquash,  a  raw  or  gi-een  fruit. 
Tomato.— romate,  of  South  American  origin. 
Turnip. — Probably  Welsh  turn,  round,  and  maip,  turnip. 

4.     Periods  of  Cultivation  and  Native  Countries  of  Cultivated 
Plan-ts. 

(Adapted  from  researches  of  De  Candolle,  and  Gray  and  Trumbull.) 

Almond.  Over  4,000  years ;  Mediterranean  basin,  western  tem- 
perate Asia. 

Apple.  Over  4,000  years ;  Europe,  Anatolia,  south  of  the  Cau- 
casus. 

Apricot.     Over  4,000  years ;  China. 

Artichoke.  Less  than  2,000  years ;  Europe,  Africa,  Canaries  and 
Madeira. 

Asparagus.    Over  2,000  years ;  Europe,  western  temperate  Asia. 

Banana.— Over  4,000  years ;  southern  Asia. 

Barley,  Common.     (?) ;  western  temperate  Africa. 

Bean,  Kidney.  Over  4,000  years ;  unknown  wild.  Probably  N. 
America. 

Bean,  Broad.     Over  4,000  years ;  south  of  the  Caspian  (?). 

Buckwheat.  Less  than  2,000  years;  Mandschuria,  central 
Siberia. 

Buckwheat,  Tartarian.  Less  than  2,000  years ;  Tartary,  Siberia 
to  Dahuria. 

Cabbage.     Over  4,000  years ;  Europe. 

Carrot.    Over  2,000  years ;  Europe,  western  temperate  Asia  (?). 

Celery.    Over  2,000  years ;  Europe,  Asia  and  Africa. 

Chestnut.     (?)  ;  from  Portugal  to  Caspian  Sea,  eastern  Algeria. 

Chives.    Less  than  2,000  years ;  temperate  and  northern  Europe. 

Citron.    Over  2,000  years ;  India. 

Corn-salad.    Less  than  2,000  years;  Sardinia.,  Sicily. 

Cotton,  Herbaceous.    Over  2,000  years ;  India. 


Names,  Histories  and  Statistics.  193 

Periods  of  Cultivation  and  Kative  Countries  of  Plants,  continued. 

Cress.     Ovar  2.000  years ;  Persia  ( ?) . 

Cucumber.     Over  4,000  years ;  India. 

Currant,  Black.  Less  than  2,000  years;  Europe,  western  Hima 
lay  as. 

Currant,  Red.     Less  than  2,000  years;  Europe  to  Himalayas. 

Date-palm.    Over  4,000  years ;  western  Asia  and  Africa. 

Egg-plant.    Over  4,000  years ;  India. 

Endive.     Less  than  2,000  years ;  Mediterranean  basin. 

Fig.     Over  4,000  years ;  south  of  Mediterranean  basin. 

Garlic.     Over  2,000  years ;  desert  of  the  Kirghis. 

Gooseberry.  Less  than  2,000  years ;  temperate  Europe,  western 
Himalayas. 

Hop.     Less  than  2,000  years ;  Europe,  Asia,  U.  S. 

Horse-radish.    Less  than  2,000  years ;  eastern  temperate  Europe. 

Jerusalem  Artichoke.    Probably  ancient ;  U.  S. 

Leek.     Over  2,000  years ;  Mediterranean  basin. 

Lettuce.    Over  2,000  years ;  Europe,  Asia  and  Africa. 

Maize.    Very  ancient ;  New  Granada  ( \) . 

Melon.    Less  than  2,000  years ;  India,  Beluchistan,  Guinea. 

Mushroom.     Less  than  2,000  years ;  Northern  hemisphere. 

Oats.     Over  2,000  years ;  temperate  Europe. 

Okra.     Less  than  2,000  years ;  tropical  Africa. 

Onion.  Over  4,000  years ;  Persia,  Afghanistan,  Beluchistan, 
Palestine  (?). 

Onion,  "Welsh.     Less  than  2,000  years ;  Siberia. 

Orach.     Less  than  2,000  years ;  northern  Europe  and  Siberia. 

Parsley.     Less  than  2,000  years ;  Europe,  Algeria  and  Lebanon. 

Parsnip.     Less  than  2,000  years ;  central  and  southern  Europe. 

Pea.    Over  2,000  years ;  Caucasus  to  Persia ( ?),  India (?). 

Peach.     Over  4,000  years ;  China. 

Pear.    Over  4,000  years ;  temperate  Europe  and  Asia. 

Pepper.     Over  500  years ;  Brazil  ( ?) . 

Pineapple.    Over  .500  years ;  Mexico,  Central  America. 

Plum.     Over  2,000  years ;  Anatolia,  north  of  Persia. 

Potato.     O^cr  500  years  ;  Chili,  Peru. 

Pumpkin  and  Squash.     Over  500  years ;  temperate  N.  America. 

Quince.  Over  4,000  years;  north  of  Persia,  south  of  the  Cau- 
casus, Anatolia. 


194  77z^   Horticulturisf  s   Rule- Book. 

Periods  of  Cultivation  and  Native  Countries  of  Plants,  continued. 

Eadish.     Over  2,000  years ;  temperate  Asia. 

Eampion.     Less    than   2,000   years;    temperate    and    southern 

Europe. 
Eape.     Over  4,000  years ;  Europe,  western  Siberia  (?). 
Rice,     Over  4,000  years ;  India,  southern  China. 
Rye.    Over  2,000  yeai's;  eastern  temperate  Europe(?),   south. 

east  of  Europe,  Algeria. 
Salsify.    Less  than  2,000  years(  ?) ;  southeastern  Europe,  Algeria^ 
Sea-Kale.     Less  than  2,000  years  ;  western  temperate  Europe. 
Scorzonera.     Less  than  2,000  years ;  southwestern  Europe. 
Shaddock.     Over  2,000  years ;  Pacific  Islands. 
Shallot.    Less  than  2,000  years ;  unknown  wild. 
Spinach,    Less  than  2,000  years ;  Persia(  ?). 
Sorghum.    Over  4,000  years ;  tropical  Africa(  ?). 
Strawberry,  Chile.    Less  than  300  years  ;  Chile. 
Strawberry,    Virginia.      Less    than    300   years;    temperate    N. 

America. 
Sunflower.     Very  ancient ;  U.  S. 
Sweet-Potato.     Very  ancient;  tropical  America. 
Tomato.     Over  500  years ;  Peru. 

Turnip.     Over  4,000  years ;  Europe,  western  Siberia(?). 
Watermelon.    Over  4,000  years ;  tropical  Africa. 
Wheat.     Over  4,000  years ;  region  of  the  Euphrates. 

5-     Statistics  of  the  Vegetable  Kingdom. 

There  are  200  natural  families  or  orders  of  flowering  plants, 
about  7,600  genera^  and  about  100,000  species  are  known  and  de- 
scribed. The  flowerless  plants  are  much  more  numerous  than 
the  flowering  plants,  both  in  individuals  and  species.  Ferns, 
mosses,  mushrooms  and  many  smaller  or  even  miscroscopic  fungi, 
lichens  and  sea-weeds  are  flowerless  plants. 

The  Ranunculacese  or  Crowfoot  family  includes  over  1,200 
species  of  plants,  inhabiting  all  parts  of  the  world.  The  clematis, 
marsh-marigold  or  so-called  cowslip,  columbine,  adonis,  butter- 
cup, Christmas  rose,  love-in-a-mist,  larkspur,  aconite  and  peony 
are  members  of  the  Crowfoot  famil5^  The  family  comprises  30 
genera. 

There  are  about  100  species  of  clematis  known. 


Statistics.  195 

statistics  of  the  Vegetable  Kingdom,  continued. 

About  40  distinct  species  of  delphinium  or  larkspur  are  de- 
scribed, few  of  which  are  cultivated,  however. 

It  is  thought  that  there  are  about  a  half-dozen  true  species 
of  peonies  known,  although  many  supposed  species  have  been 
described. 

The  Magnolia  family  comprises  about  70  species  of  trees  and 
shrubs.  Of  these,  14  are  magnolias  proper,  of  which  6  or  7  are 
native  of  Japan,  China  or  the  Himalaya  region,  and  the  remainder 
are  North  American.  The  tulip-tree,  of  which  but  a  single  spe- 
cies is  known,  belongs  to  this  order. 

The  Nymphaaaceas  or  Water-lily  family  contains  8  genera  and 
about  35  species,  all  aquatic.  The  -largest  genus  is  nymphaea — 
by  some  called  castalia — comprising  some  20  species. 

The  Mustard  family,  Cruciferge,  comprises  probably  about 
3,000  species,  many  of  w^hich  are  grown  for  food  and  ornament. 
The  cabbage,  cauliflower,  turnip,  kohlrabi,  radish,  horse-radish, 
sea-kale,  cresses  and  mustards  are  the  leading  edible  species, 
while  the  stocks,  alyssum,  wallflower,  honesty  or  lunaria  are 
among  the  ornamental  species.  There  are  over  175  genera  in  the 
order. 

The  Violet  family  comprises  about  250  species,  generally  dis- 
tributed over  the  world.  Of  these,  about  200  are  violets.  The 
order  includes  21  genera.  Some  of  the  species,  outside  of  viola 
proper,  are  shrubs  or  small  trees. 

The  Caryophyllaceai  or  Pink  family  has  about  1,000  species  and 
35  genera.  The  ornamental  genera  are  dianthus,  including  the 
pinks  and  carnation,  saponaria,  silene,  lychnis  and  a  few  others 
of  less  importance.  Dianthus,  literally  ''Jove's  flower,"  num- 
bers some  200  species.  The  corn-cockle  and  catchflies  belong  to 
this  family. 

The  Mallow  family,  Malvaceae,  has  about  60  genera  and  700 
species.  The  best-known  genera  are  althsea,  the  hollyhock  ; 
malva,  the  mallows ;  hibiscus ;  abutilon ;  and  gossypium,  the 
cotton. 

The  Basswoods  or  Lindens  are  8  in  number,  growing  in  north- 
ern temperate  climates.  Three  are  natives  of  North  America. 
Tiliaceae,  the  Basswood  family,  comprises  40  genera  and  about 
330  species. 


196  The  Horticulturist' s  Ride- Book. 

Statistics  of  the  Vegetable  Kingdom,  continued. 

Some  50  species  of  maples  are  known,  inhabiting  Europe, 
Asia  and  America.  Nine  grow  naturally  in  North  America.  The 
Sapindaceae,  to  which  family  the  maple  belongs,  is  largely  trop- 
ical. It  comprises  over  70  genera,  and  600  or  700  species,  ^scu- 
lus,  the  horse-chestnuts,  belong  here,  and  are  about  14  in  number. 

The  Leguminosae  or  Pulse  family  is  one  of  the  most  important 
orders  of  plants.  It  furnishes  many  foods,  flue  woods,  dyes, 
medicines  and  ornamental  plants.  Many  of  the  species  are  ex- 
tremely important  in  agriculture  because  of  the  great  amount  of 
nitrogen  they  contain.  Peas,  beans,  clover,  locusts,  acacias, 
sensitive-plant,  belong  to  this  family.  It  comprises  about  400 
genera  and  6,500  species. 

The  Rosacese  or  Rose  family  may  be  called  the  fruit  family  of 
the  north  temperate  zone.  Apples,  pears,  quinces,  June-beiTies, 
strawberries,  blackberries,  raspberries,  peaches,  plums,  apri- 
cots, almonds,  cherries,  all  belong  here.  Prunus,  which  includes 
the  stone-fruits,  has  about  100  species  in  various  parts  of  the 
world,  and  25  are  North  American.  Pyrus,  including,  apple, 
pear,  quince  and  mountain-ash,  has  about  40  species,  of  which  9 
are  in  North  America.  Of  roses,  over  250  have  been  described, 
but  late  authorities  consider  that  there  are  only  about  30  good 
species.  Of  strawberries,  there  are  3  or  4  species,  and  of  spiraea 
about  50.  The  whole  family  has  about  1,000  species  and  70 
genera. 

Vitis,  the  grape  and  its  allies,  has  some  230  species.  There 
are  two  or  three  other  genera,  and  about  a  score  of  other  species 
in  the  family,  vitaceaj  or  ampelideae,  to  which  it  belongs. 

The  Cucurbitaceae  includes  the  squashes,  pumpkins,  cucum- 
bers, melons  and  gourds.  The  species  are  about  500  in  number, 
and  are  mostly  tropical  or  subtropical.  Some  25  species  are  de- 
scribed as  cucumis,  to  which  the  cucumber  and  muskmelon  be- 
long, and  2  as  citruUus  or  watermelon.  The  pumpkins  and 
squashes  belong  to  cucurbita,  of  which  about  10  species  are 
known,  several  of  them  perennials.  The  family  comprises  about 
70  genera. 

About  350  species  of  begonia  are  known. 

Of  cacti,  there  are  about  1,000  species  and  13  genera,  all  but 
one  species  native  of  the  New  World. 


Statistics.  1 97 

Statistics  of  the  Vegetable  Kingdom,  continued. 

Umbelliferse,  comprising  over  150  genera  and  about  1,300  spe- 
cies, includes  the  parsnip,  parsley,  carrot,  celery,  caraway,  anise, 
dill  and  others.  In  Africa  some  of  the  species  attain  to  the  size 
of  trees. 

About  one-ninth  of  all  flowering  plants  are  comprised  in 
the  Compositse  or  Sunflower  family.  It  is  by  far  the  largest 
order,  containing  nearly  800  genera  and  about  10,000  species. 
Very  few  of  the  species  fui-nish  esculent  parts ;  the  leading  ones 
are  lettuce,  endive,  chicory,  artichoke,  cardoon  and  salsify.  But 
the  family  comprises  great  numbers  of  ornamental  plants,  of 
which  the  leading  one  at  the  present  time  is  the  chrysanthemum. 
A  very  few  of  the  species  become  small  shrubs. 

The  Heath  family,  Ericaceae,  includes  the  heaths,  heather  of 
Europe,  wintergreen,  whortleberries  or  huckleberries,  cranber- 
ries, azaleas,  rhododendrons  and  laurels.  Certain  white  and 
flesh-colored  parasitic  plants  also  belong  to  it,  as  the  Indian-pipe 
and  the  snow  plant  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  About  80  genera 
and  over  1,300  species  are  known. 

The  Primulas  belong  to  the  Primulaceae  or  Primrose  family, 
and  they  number  some  80  or  more  species,  many  of  which  are 
cultivated.  The  genus  primula  is  commonly  divided  by  florists 
into  auriculas,  polyanthuses  and  primroses.  One  of  the  primu- 
las is  the  true  cowslip.  Primulacea3  has  about  20  genera  and  250 
species. 

Oleaceae,  a  family  of  18  genera  and  nearly  300  species,  includes 
the  jasmine,  forsythias,  lilacs,  ashes,  privet  and  olive.  12  spe- 
cies of  fraxinus  or  ash,  are  native  to  North  America.  There 
are  about  120  species  of  jasminum  or  jasmine,  2  of  forsythia,  G 
of  syringa  or  lilac,  over  30  of  fraxinus,  about  25  of  ligustrum  or 
privet,  and  35  of  olea,  or  olive. 

The  Convolvulus  or  Morning-glory  family,  Convolvulaceae,  has 
some  800  species,  some  of  which  are  trees,  and  32  genera.  The 
dodders,  peculiar  parasitic  plants,  of  which  several  are  natives 
of  the  United  States,  belong  here,  as  does  also  the  sweet-potato. 

There  are  about  30  species  of  Phlox  described,  nearly  all  na- 
tives of  North  America.  The  common  Phtox  Drummondii  is  a 
native  of  Texas. 

Solanaceae  is  a  large  and  important  order,  containing  many 


1 98  The  HorticulttirisV  s  Rule,  Book. 

statistics  of  the  VegretaWe  Kingdom,  continued, 
esculent  plants  and  many  poisons.  Here  belong  the  potato,  to- 
mato, egg-plant,  red  pepper,  and  strawberry  or  husk-tomato; 
also  tobacco,  belladonna  and  nightshade.  There  are  66  genera 
and  from  1,200  to  1,500  species.  The  genus  solanum  alone,  to 
which  the  potato  and  egg-plant  belong,  contains  from  700  to  900 
species.  Lycopersicum,  the  tomato  genus,  has  less  than  a  half 
dozen  species. 

There  are  about  140  genera  and  2,600  species  in  the  Labiatae 
or  Mint  family.  The  order  comprises  a  few  tree-like  and  a  few 
climbing  plants.  The  species  are  aromatic,  and  most  of  our 
cultivated  sweet  herbs,  and  all  the  mints,  belong  to  the  family. 
It  comprises  many  ornamental  species,  among  the  most  promi- 
nent being  species  of  coleus,  of  which  about  50  species  are  de- 
scribed. 

The  Nettle  family  or  Urticaceae  comprises  many  dissimilar 
plants.  Here  belong  the  nettles,  mulberry,  fig,  bread-fruit, 
hackberry,  osage-orange,  elm,  hemp,  and  hop.  The  family  has 
in  the  neighborhood  of  1,500  species,  and  the  accepted  genera  are 
108.  Five  elms  and  2  mulberries  are  native  to  North  America, 
and  3  wild  figs  grow  in  southern  Florida. 

Five  genera  and  about  30  species  belong  to  the  Juglandaceae 
or  Walnut  family.  All  the  hickories,  8  or  10,  are  natives  of 
North  America.  There  are  2  walnuts  and  1  butternut  in  the 
United  States. 

Cupuliferae,  the  Oak  family,  numbers  400  species  and  10  genera. 
It  gives  us  the  oaks,  about  300  in  the  world  and  44  in  the  United 
States;  chestnuts,  beeches,  hazels  and  filberts,  birches,  alder, 
hornbeam,  and  ironwood.  The  United  States  has  2  chestnuts,  1 
beech,  about  8  birches  and  6  alders. 

The  Pine  or  Spruce  family  is  known  as  the  Coniferae,  or  cone- 
bearing  family.  It  includes  plants  of  very  dissimilar  kinds. 
Most  of  the  species  have  needle-like  and  evergreen  leaves,  but 
some  are  deciduous,  and  the  gingko  has  broad  and  flat  leaves. 
There  are  more  than  30  genera  and  about  300  species  in  the  fam- 
ily. Of  pines  there  are  about  70,  and  35  of  them  are  native  to  the 
United  States. 

Orchidaceae,  the  Orchid  family,  includes  some  5,000  singular 
herbs,  distributed  through  334  genera.     Many  of  the  species  are 


Statistics.  199 

Statistics  of  the  Vegetable  Kingdom,  continued, 
epiphytes,  that  is,  growing  above  ground  on  other  plants.  The 
species  are  the  most  specialized,  perhaps,  of  any  order,  and  they 
are  usually  uncommon  or  rare.  A  number  of  showy  species  grow 
in  the  United  States,  the  best-known  of  which  are  the  lady-slip- 
pers.    Our  species  usually  inhabit  bogs  or  deep  woods. 

Over  2,000  species,  in  187  genera,  comprise  Liliacese,  or  the 
Lily  family.  Some  of  the  species  are  tree-like.  Here  belong 
the  onion,  asparagus,  tulip,  aloes,  yuccas,  hellebore',  and  many 
choice  ornamental  plants.  Of  lilies,  there  are  about  45  species, 
tulips  in  the  neighborhood  of  50,  and  of  hyacinths  about  30. 

The  Palm  family,  Palmse,  includes  1.100  or  more  species  and 
132  genera.  Many  species  produce  edible  fruits,  the  best-known 
in  our  markets  being  the  date  and  the  cocoanut. 

The  Gramineee  or  Grass  family  is  the  most  important  order  of 
plants.  Besides  all  the  grasses,  it  furnishes  all  the  cereal  grains, 
including  Indian  corn  and  the  sugar-cane.  Genera  about  300; 
species  more  than  3,000. 

There  are  about  74  genera  of  ferns  or  Pilices,  and  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  2,400  species.  Some  of  the  species  attain  to  the  size 
of  small  trees. 


CHAPTER   XXII. 


Glossary. 


Acclimation.  The  spontaneous  or  natural  process  of  becoming, 
or  the  state  or  condition  of  being,  inured  or  habituated  to 
a  climate  at  first  injurious. 

Acclimatization.  The  act  of  man  in  inuring  or  habituating  to  a 
climate  at  first  injurious,  or  the  state  or  condition  of  being 
thus  inured  or  habituated  by  man. 

Adventive.  Said  of  foreign  plants  which  grow  spontaneously, 
but  which  are  not  thoroughly  established. 

Agriculture.  The  art  and  science  of  cultivating  land  and  raising 
crops  and  stock.  The  term  is  often  restricted  to  include  only 
the  cultivation  of  grains  and  forage-plants  and  the  rearing  of 
domestic  animals,  with  the  operations  and  studies  incident 
thereto. 

Alburnum.    Sap-wood. 

Ammonia.  A  pungent  gas,  composed  of  one  atom  of  nitrogen  to 
three  of  hydrogen. 

Annual  {Adj.)    Living  for  one  year  only. 

Arm.     In  grape-culture,  a  vine-branch  more  than  a  year  old. 

Assimilation.  In  botany,  the  production  of  organic  matter 
from  inorganic  matter. 

Bacterium  (pi.  bacteria).  As  popularly  used,  the  term  is  applied 
to  an  extensive  class  of  microscopic  organisms,  usually  classed 
with  plants.    The  term  microbe  is  used  in  the  same  sense. 

Basin.  In  descriptions  of  apples  and  related  fruits,  the  depres- 
sion at  the  apex  of  the  fruit.    The  calyx  sits  in  the  basin. 

(200) 


Glossary.  201 

Berry.  In  botany,  and  properly,  a  separate  fruit  which  is  pulpy 
and  juicy  throughout,  as  the  grape,  currant,  tomato.  The  word 
is  commonlj^  employed  to  denote  any  soft  fruit  or  fruit-like  part 
which  is  borne  upon  a  woody  or  perennial  plant.  The  raspberry 
and  blackberry  are  collections  of  little  Iruits. 

Biennial  {Adj.).  Persisting  two  years.  As  a  rule,  biennial  plants 
do  not  blossom  until  the  second  year. 

Bigeneric  half-breed.  The  product  of  a  cross  between  varieties  of 
species  belonging  to  different  genera. 

Bigenric  hybrid.  A  hybrid  between  species  of  different  genera ; 
bigener. 

Blight.  The  dying  without  apparent  cause  of  the  tenderer  parts 
of  plants,  especially  of  the  leaves,  flowei's  and  young  fruit; 
as  pear-blight. 

Botany.     The  science  of  plants. 

Bottle-grafting.  A  modification  of  whip-grafting  by  which  a 
heel  of  the  scion  is  conducted  into  a  bottle  of  water  to  supply 
temporary  nourishment. 

Bottom  heat.  Heat  applied  underneath  plants  by  artificial 
means. 

Bract.  A  much  reduced  leaf.  Bracts  are  usually  present  about 
the  inflorescence. 

Break.  A  radical  departure  from  the  type.  Ordinarily  used  in 
the  sense  of  sport,  but  in  its  larger  meaning-  it  refers  to  the  per- 
manent appearence  of  apparently  new  or  very  pronounced 
characters  in  a  species. 

Bud.  A  bud  which  is  inserted  in  a  plant  with  the  intention  that 
it  shall  grow. 

Budding.  The  operation  and  practice  of  inserting  a  bud  in  a 
plant  with  the  intention  that  it  shall  grow. 

Bulb.  A  large,  more  or  less  permanent  leaf-bud,  usually  occu- 
pying the  base  of  the  stem,  and  emitting  roots  from  its  lower 
portion.  Bulbs  are  of  two  leading  sorts ;  scalj^,  when  composed 
of  narrow  and  mostly  loose  scales,  as  in  the  lily ;  laminated  or 
tunicated,  when  composed  of  more  continuous  and  closer-fitting 
layers,  as  in  the  onion. 

Bulbel.  A  small  bulb  borne  about  a  mother-bulb,  as  in  some 
bulbous  irises  and  some  onions ;  bulbule. 

Bulblet.  A  small  bulb  borne  entirely  abQve  ground,  as  in  the 
axils  of  leaves,  in  the  inflorescence,  etc. 

Bulbo-tuber.     A  corm. 


202  The  Horticiilturisf  s  Rule- Book. 

Bnlbule.     A  bulbel. 

Bush.  A  small  woody  plant  having  no  centi'al  trunk  or  stem ; 
shrub. 

Bush-fruit.  Small  fruits,  as  the  currant,  gooseberry,  raspberry, 
and  the  like. 

Callus.  The  new  and  protruding  tissue  which  forms  over  a 
wound,  as  over  the  end  of  a  cutting. 

Caljrx,  The  outer  envelope  of  the  flower.  The  parts,  when  dis- 
tinct, are  called  sepals.  In  apples,  pears,  et<"..  part  of  the 
calyx  persists  on  top  of  the  fruit. 

Cambium.  The  layer  of  new  tissue  which  lies  underneath  the 
bark.  It  is  usually  thin  and  more  or  less  mucilaginous  in 
spring  and  early  summer. 

Cane.  A  young  growth  of  hard- wooded  plants.  Usually  applied 
to  ripened  or  hardened  shoots  a  year  or  less  old. 

Cantaloupe.  A  class  of  muskmelons  characterized  by  firm  and 
warty  or  scabby  rinds. 

Capsule.     A  dry  seed-vessel  which  splits  open  at  maturit^^ ;  pod. 

Carbon  dioxide.  A  gas  composed  of  one  atom  of  carbon  to  two 
of  oxygen.  It  is  heavier  than  air.  and  is  poisonous  in  large 
quantities ;  carbonic  acid  gas. 

Carbonic  acid.     Carbon  dioxide. 

Carpel.  A  simple  pistil,  or  one  of  the  divisions  of  a  compound 
pistil. 

Cavity.  In  descriptions  of  apples  and  similar  fruits,  the  depres- 
sion about  the  stalk  or  stem. 

Chlorophyl.     The  green  coloring-matter  of  plants. 

Cion.     See  Scion. 

Cleft-graft.  A  sort  of  grafting  in  which  the  scion  is  cut  wedge- 
shaped  at  the  lower  extremity,  and  is  then  inserted  in  a  cleft 
in  the  end  of  a  trunk  or  branch  which  has  been  severed. 

Close  fertilization.  The  action  of  pollen  upon  the  pistil  of  the 
same  flower;  self-fertilization. 

Coldframe.  A  frame  covered  with  glass,  cloth  or  paper,  with- 
out bottom  heat,  used  for  starting  plants  early  in  spring,  for 
receiving  plants  transplanted  from  a  hotbed  or  forcing-house, 
or  for  protecting  plants  during  the  winter. 

Conservatory.  A  glass  house  for  preserving  or  growing  tender 
plants.  Popularly,  the  term  is  applied  to  houses  in  which 
plants  are  grown  for  display  of  flowers. 


Glossary.  203 


Corolla.  The  inner  envelope  of  the  flower.  The  parts,  when  dis- 
tinct, are  called  petals. 

Corm.  A  solid  bulb-like  tuber,  as  in  the  gladiolus  and  crocus ; 
bulbo-tuber. 

Corymb.  A  flower-cluster  which  is  flat  or  convex  on  top  and  in 
which  the  outer  flower  blooms  first. 

Cotyledon.  A  small  leaf  borne  in  the  seed ;  seed-leaf.  In  many 
plants  the  cotyledons  rise  to  the  surface  when  the  seed  germi- 
nates, and  inci-ease  in  size. 

Cross.  The  offspring  of  any  two  flowers  which  have  been  cross- 
fertilized. 

Cross-breed.  A  cross  between  varieties  of  the  same  species; 
half-breed,  mongrel,  variety -hybrid. 

Cross-fertilization.  The  action  of  pollen  upon  the  pistil  of 
another  flower  of  the  same  species.  Cross-fertilization  is  com- 
monly used  to  denote  the  mere  conveyance  of  pollen — pollin- 
ation— but  better  usage  confines  the  term  to  the  action  of  pollen 
upon  the  pistil. 

Cross -pollination.  The  conveyance  of  the  pollen  to  the  stigma  of 
another  flower. 

Crossing.     The  operation  or  practice  of  cross-pollination. 

Crown- grafting.     Grafting  at  or  near  the  surface  of  the  ground. 

Cryptogam.  One  of  the  class  of  flowerless  plants.  These  plants 
propagate  by  spores  instead  of  seeds.  Ferns,  fungi,  mosses 
and  sea-weeds  are  examples. 

Cutting.  A  portion  of  a  plant  which  is  inserted  in  soil  or  water 
with  the  intention  that  it  shall  grow ;  slip. 

Cyme.  A  flower-cluster,  flat  or  convex  on  top,  and  in  which  the 
central  flowers  open  first. 

Deciduous.    Said  of  plants  whose  leaves  fall  in  autumn. 

Derivation  hybrid.  A  hybrid  between  hybrids,  or  between  a 
hybrid  and  one  of  its  parents ;  derivative  hybrid ;  secondary 
hybrid. 

Dibber.     See  dibble. 

Dibble.  A  pointed  instrument  used  for  making  holes  in  the 
ground  for  the  planting  of  seeds  and  roots ;  dibber. 

Dioecious.  Said  of  species  in  which  the  stamens  and  pistils  are 
borne  on  different  plants. 

Disbudding.    The  practice  or  operation  of  removing  buds. 


204  The   Hortinilturisf  s  Rule- Book. 

Double-graft.  A  planf  twice  grafted  for  the  purpose  of  over- 
coming the  lack  of  affinity  between  stock  and  scion. 

Double-grafting.  The  practice  and  process  of  twice  grafting  or 
budding  a  plant  so  that  the  root,  the  stem  or  a  part  of  it,  and 
the  top,  shall  each  represent  a  different  variety.  It  is  used 
when  a  certain  variety  will  not  grow  upon  a  given  root,  but 
which  will  grow  on  some  variety  that  unites  with  that  root ; 
double-working. 

Double-working.     See  Double-grafting. 

Drupe.  A  fleshy  or  soft  fruit  formed  entirely  from  the  ovary, 
and  containing  a  hard  pit ;  stone-fruit.  The  peach  aad  cherry 
are  examples. 

Embryo.  The  rudimentary  plant  contained  in  the  seed ;  seed- 
germ. 

Entomology.     The  science  of  insects. 

Evergreen.    Said  of  plants  which  hold  their  leaves  during  ^vinter. 

Eye.     A  cutting  composed  of  a  single  bud. 

Family.  A  group  of  genera  and  species,  as  Cruciferce,  mustard 
family ;  Gramincc,  grass  family.    In  botany,  order  is  the  same. 

Fecundation.  The  action  of  the  pollen  upon  the  pistil ;  fertiliza- 
tion; impregnation. 

Female.  Used  to  designate  flowers  or  plants  which  bear  only 
styles. 

Fertilization.  The  action  of  the  pollen  upon  the  pistil ;  fecunda- 
tion; impregnation.     , 

Fertilizer.  1.  Any  substance  which  promotes  plant-growth. 
2.  Plant-food. 

Fertilizing.  The  act  or  process  of  applying  fertilizers  to  plants. 
The  word  fertilization  should  be  restricted  to  designate  the 
action  of  pollen. 

Flagging.     Wilting  of  newly-set  plants  or  herbaceous  cuttings. 

Flat.  A  shallow  box  used  by  gardeners  in  which  to  sow  seeds 
or  handle  plants. 

Floriculture.     The  cultivation  of  flowers. 

Florist.     One  who  practices  floriculture. 

Flower.  An  organ  which  contains  a  stamen  or  pistiK  or  both. 
It  is  usually  provided  \vith  some  kind  of  an  envelope,  as  calyx 
and  corolla. 

Forcing-house.  A  structure  in  which  plants  are  grown  or  forced 
out  of  their  season. 


Glossary.  205 

Frame.  The  structure  forming  the  sides  and  ends  of  coldframes 
or  hotbeds.  A  frame  is  usually  understood  to  be  the  area  cov- 
ered by  a  single  sash,  when  areas  are  to  be  designated. 

Fruit.  1.  Botanically,  a  ripened  ovary  containing  the  seeds. 
3.  Popularly,  any  edible  or  ornamental  organ  or  collection  of 
organs  which  are  closely  associated  in  their  origin  with  the 
flower. 

Fungicide.    A  substance  employed  to  destroy  fungi. 

Fungoid  {adj.).  Fungus-like  in  general  appearance  or  character- 
istics. A  fungoid  disease  is  one  which  appears  to  be  due  to  a 
fungus,  but  whose  character  is  not  understood. 

Fungous  {(tdj.).  Pertaining  or  due  to  a  fungus  or  to  fungi :  as,  a 
fungous  disease. 

Fungus  {pi.,  fungi).  A  flowerless  plant,  devoid  of  chlorophyl, 
drawing  its  nourishment  from  living  plants  or  animals,  or 
from  decaying  matter. 

Gardener.  One  who  practices  horticulture  on  a  small  or  on  an 
intensive  scale. 

Gardening.  The  art  and  science  of  raising  kitchen-garden  vege- 
tables, fruits  and  ornamental  plants ;  horticulture.  The  term 
is  commonly  restricted,  however,  to  the  operations  of  growing 
kitchen-garden  vegetables  and  flowers. 

Genus  (pi.,  genera).  A  group  or  kind  containing  a  greater  or  less 
number  of  closely  related  species;  as  Rosa,  the  rose  genus, 
Tilia,  the  linden  genus. 

Germination.  The  act  or  process  by  which  a  seed  or  spore  gives 
rise  to  a  new  and«independent  plant. 

Gourd.  An  ambiguous  term,  used  in  America  to  designate  vari- 
ous small  fruits  of  the  pumpkin  and  squash  genus  which  are 
grown  for  ornament  and  curiosity.  In  other  countries  the 
term  is  generic  for  most  pumpkins  and  squashes. 

Graft.    Scion,  which  see. 

Graftage.  The  process  of  grafting,  or  the  condition  or  state  of 
being  grafted. 

Grafting.  The  operation  of  inserting  a  bud  or  scion  upon  a  stock. 
It  is  commonly  restricted  to  the  operation  of  inserting  scions  of 
dormant  wood,  or  to  those  operations  in  which  wax  or  mastic 
is  used  to  dress  the  wounds. 

Greenhouse.  A  glass  house  in  which  plants  are  grown.  Origin- 
ally and  properly,  however,  it  was  applied  to  houses  in  which 
plants  were  simply  preserved  green  during  the  winter. 


2o6  The  HorticidturisV  s   Rule- Book. 

Ha-ha.     A  sunken  fence. 

Half-Breed.  A  cross  between  varieties  of  the  same  species ; 
cross-breed,  mongrel,  variety-hybrid. 

Half-Hardy  (adj.).  A  term  applied  to  plants  which  need  protec- 
tion during  winter,  but  which  can  endure  some  frost. 

Half-hybrid.  The  product  of  a  cross  between  a  species  and  a 
variety  of  another  species. 

Hand-box.  A  box  of  size  sufficient  to  cover  a  hill  of  plants,  pro- 
vided with  a  cover  of  glass,  cloth  or  paper,  used  to  force  plants 
in  the  hill. 

Hardiness.     Capability  to  endure  a  given  climate. 

Hardy  (adj.).     Able  to  withstand  a  given  climate. 

Heart-wood.  The  inner  and  colored  wood  of  trees.  The  deeper 
color  and  greater  hardness  of  heart-wood  are  due  chiefly  to  the 
deposition  of  mineral  matter  in  the  cells. 

Herb.  A  plant  possessing  but  a  small  amount  of  hard,  woody 
fiber,  the  stem  of  which  dies  at  the  approach  of  winter. 

Herbarium.  A  collection  of  preserved  plants.  The  plants  are 
usually  dried  and  glued  on  sheets  of  paper. 

Heeling-in.  The  process  and  operation  of  temporarily  covering 
the  roots  of  plants  to  preserve  them  until  wanted  for  perma- 
nent planting. 

Horticulture.  The  art  and  science  of  raising  fruits,  kitchen-gar- 
den vegetables,  flowers,  and  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs. 

Horticulturist.     One  who  practices  horticulture. 

Hotbed.  A  frame  covered  with  glass,  cloth  or  paper,  pro^^ided 
with  bottom  heat,  and  used  for  forcing  plaiAs. 

Hothouse.  A  glass  house,  artificially  warmed,  in  which  plants 
arc  grown. 

Hy'brid  or  hyb'rid.     The  offspring  of  plants  of  different  species. 

Hy'bridism  or  hyb'ridism.  The  state,  quality  or  condition  of 
being  a  hybrid ;  hybridity. 

Hy'bridist.     One  who  practices  hybridizing. 

Hy'bridity  or  hyb'ridity.     Hybridism. 

HyTDtidization  or  hyb'ridization.  The  state  or  condition  of  being 
hybridized ;  or  the  process  or  act  of  hybridizing. 

Hybridization.  The  action  of  the  pollen  of  one  species  upon  the 
pistil  of  another  species. 

Hy'bridizing  or  hyb'ridizing.  The  operation  or  practice  of  cross- 
ing species. 


Glossary.  207 

Impreg-nation.  The  action  of  the  pollen  upon  the  pistil ;  fertili- 
zation ;  fecundation. 

Inarching.  The  process  of  grafting  contiguous  plants  or 
branches  while  the  parts  are  both  attached  to  their  own  roots. 
When  the  parts  unite,  one  is  severed  from  its  own  support. 

Individual  fertilization.  Fertilization  between  flowers  upon  the 
same  plant. 

Inorganic.  Pertaining  to  unorganized  substances,  as  minerals, 
rocks,  chemicals,  etc. 

Insect.  An  articulate  animal  which  in  the  mature  state  has 
three  distinct  divisions  and  six  legs. 

Insecticide.    A  substance  employed  to  destroy  insects. 

Kitchen-garden.  An  area  devoted  to  the  cultivation  of  "vege- 
tables," or  annual  plants  which  yield  edible  parts. 

Kitchen-garden  vegetable.  An  edible  portion  of  an  annual  plant. 
A  loose  term,  commonly  shortened  to  vegetable. 

Landscape-gardening.  The  art  of  embellishing  grounds.  It 
demands  a  high  appreciation  of  natural  scenery  and  an  ability 
to  represent  it  in  grounds. 

Landscape-horticulture.  The  operations  and  manual  appliances 
employed  in  embellishing  grounds;  the  industrial  phase  of 
landscape-gardening. 

Larva  (pi.,  larvce).  The  worm-like  stage  of  insects.  A  larva  is 
commonly  called  a  worm. 

Lawn.     An  area  of  greensward  used  for  ornamental  purposes. 

Layer.  A  shoot  of  a  plant  bent  down  and  partly  or  wholly 
covered  with  earth  with  the  intention  that  it  shall  take  root, 
when  it  can  be  severed  from  and  become  independpnt  of  the 
parent  plant. 

Layerage.  The  state  or  condition  of  being  layered,  or  the  opera- 
tion or  practice  of  layering  plants. 

Legume.  A  simple  pod  composed  of  two  valves  or  parts,  as  pea 
and  bean  pods. 

Leguminous.  Of  or  pertaining  to  legumes.  Used  to  designate 
plants  of  the  pea  and  bean  family. 

Maiden  (adj.).    Applied  to  young  plants  which  have  not  borne. 

Male.  Used  to  desigaate  flowers  or  plants  which  bear  only 
stamens. 

Manure.  1.  Any  substance  which  promotes  plant-growth.  2. 
Plant-food. 


2o8  The  Horticulturisf  s  Rule- Book. 

Microbe,      A  term   applied  to  various   microscopic  organisms 

usually  classed  with  plants,  -whicli  play  an  important  role  in 

disease,  chemical  decomposition,  and  decay. 
Mildew.     A  powdery  or  mold-like  growth  attached  lightly  to  the 

surface  of  the  plant,  particularly  when  it  is  white  or  nearly 

so,  as  gooseberry -mildew. 
Mongrel.     A  cross  between  varieties  of  the  same  species ;  half- 
breed;  cross-breed;  variety -hybrid. 
Monoecious.     Said  of  plants  in  which  the  stamens  and   pistils 

are  borne  in  different  flowers  on  the  same  plant. 
Mother-bulb.     The  large  bulb  about  which  bulbels  are  formed. 
Mycology.    The  science  of  fungi. 
Nursery.     An    establishment    for     the  rearing   of    plants.      In 

America  the  word  is  used  in  connection  Avith  woody  plants 

only. 
Offscape.    The  landscape  which  lies  adjacent  to  one's  grounds. 
Olericulture.     The   cultivation   of   kitchen-garden    vegetables; 

vegetable-gardening. 
Open.     An  unplanted  portion  of  grounds ;  an  open  lawn  or  field. 
Order.    Family,  in  botany. 
Organic.     Pertaining  to    organized    or   living    bodies    or   their 

remains. 
Ovule.     A  sexual  body  borne  in  the  ovary,  which,  when  mature, 

becomes  the  seed. 
Ovary.     The  lower  extremity  of  the  pistil,  which,  when  mature, 

becomes  the  fruit.    It  contains  the  ovules. 
Panicle.     An  open  and  more  or  less  compound  flower-cluster. 
Papilionaceous.     Butterfly-like ;  said  of  flowers  of  the  pea  and 

bean  family,  from  their  fancied  resemblance  to  butterflies. 
Parasite.     A  plant  or  animal  which  lives  upon  living  plants  or 

animals. 
Pedicel.     The  stalk  of  a  particular  flower  in  a  cluster.     A  flower 

which  is  borne  singly  has  a  peduncle. 
Peduncle.     A  stalk  of  a  flower  which  is  borne  singly,  or  of  a 

cluster  of  flowers. 
Pepo.    A  berry-like  fruit  in  which  the  rind  is  hardened,  and 

which  belongs  to  the  gourd  family,  as  the  pumpkin,  melon, 

cucumber,  etc. 
Perfect.     Said  of  flowers  which  bear  both  stamens  and  pistils. 


Glossary.  209 

Perianth.    The  leaves  of  a  flower.    Usually  applied  to  those  flow. 

ers  ia  which  the  calyx  and  corolla  are  nearly  alike,  as  the  lily. 
Perennial  iadj.^.    Persisting  from  year  to  year.    The  term  2->eren- 

nial  is  commonly  understood  to  designate  herbaceous   plants 

which  live  for  many  years. 
Pet'al,  or  Pe'tal.     One  of  the  separate  parts  of  the  corolla ;  an 

inner  leaf  of  a  flower. 
Petiole.    The  stem  of  a  leaf. 
Phenogam.     One  of  the  class  of  flowering  plants.     These  plants 

propagate  by  seed. 
Pip.     A  term  applied  to  certain  small  seeds  or  seed-like  fruits  of 

berries  and  other  fruits . 
Piping.     A  cutting. 
Pistil.     That  portion  of  the  flower  which  receives  the  pollen  and 

bears  the  seeds.    It  always  has  two  parts,  the  stigma  and  the 

ovary,  and  these  are  usually  connected  by  a  style.    It  is  the 

female  organ  of  the  plant. 
Pistillate.     Bearing  pistils  alone ;  female. 
Plantlet.     The   little    plant   just  emerged    from  the   seed.    It 

becomes  a  plant  when  it  is  able  to  assimilate  and  lead  an  inde- 
pendent existence. 
Pod.     A  dry  seed-vessel  which  splits  open  at  maturitj?^ ;  capsule. 
Pollen.     A  product  of  the  anthers  which  is  capable  of  fertilizing 

the  stigma.     It  is  usually  granular  and  powdei-y. 
Pollination.     The  conveyance  of  pollen  from  the  anther  to  the 

stigma. 
Polygamous.     Said  of  plants  or  species  which  bear  both  perfect 

and  imperfect  flowers. 
Pome.    A  fleshy  fruit  with  a  papery  core  surrounded  by  a  greatly 

thickened  calyx,  as  the  apple,  quince,  etc. 
Race.    A  fixed  variety ;  that  is,  a  variety  which  reproduces  itself 

more  or  less  uniformly  from  seeds. 
Raceme.      A  more  or  less  elongated  and  simple  flower-cluster 

with  one-flowered  pedicels. 
Regermination.    Second  germination.    Seeds  which  have  been 

checked  after  germination  has  begun  may  resume  the  process 

under  favorable  conditions. 
Root.     A  part  of  the  plant  which  bears  neither  leaves  nor  buds, 

and  which  absorbs  nourishment  for  the  plant,  or  serves  as  a 

support  for  it.     It  may  be  subterranean  or  aerial. 


2IO  The   Horticulturisf  s   Rule- Book. 

Root-cap.  The  covering  upon  the  end  of  a  growing  root.  The 
elongation  of  the  root  takes  place  just  behind  the  root-cap. 

Root-grafting.     Grafting  upon  the  root. 

Root-hair.  A  very  delicate  prolongation  of  a  cell  of  a  young  root. 
Root-hairs  are  active  agents  in  absorbing  plant-food. 

Rot.  The  decay  of  the  thicker  part  of  plants,  however  brought 
about ;  the  amount  of  moisture  present  determining  whether 
it  shall  be  called  wet  or  dry  rot,  as  potato-rot. 

Runner.  A  procumbent  or  creeping  herbaceous  shoot  which 
takes  root  at  the  joints. 

Rust.  Any  plant-disease  in  which  the  surface  of  the  plant  is 
apparently  converted  into  a  powder  or  scurf,  particularly 
when  of  a  ferruginous  or  blackish  color,  as  wheat-rust. 

Saddle-graft.  A  sort  of  grafting  in  which  the  scion  is  split  be- 
low and  inserted  over  the  end  of  the  stock,  which  is  cut 
wedge-shape. 

Salad.  A  dish  of  uncooked  herbs,  or  chopped  meat  combined 
with  uncooked  herbs. 

Sap.     A  term  designating  loosely  the  liquid  contents  of  plants. 

Saprophyte.  A  plant  which  lives  upon  dead  or  decajang  matter, 
as  a  mushroom  or  toadstool. 

Scion,  or  Cion.  A  portion  of  a  plant  which  is  mechanically  in- 
serted upon  the  same  or  another  plant  with  the  intention  that 
it  shall  grow ;  a  graft.  As  commonly  used,  a  scion,  in  distinc- 
tion from  a  bud,  bears  two  or  more  buds. 

Secondary  hybrid.  A  hybrid  between  hybrids,  or  between  a  hybrid 
and  one  of  its  parents ;  derivative  hybrid ;  derivation-hybrid. 

Se'pal,  or  Sep'al.  One  of  the  separate  parts  of  the  calyx;  an 
outer  leaf  of  a  flower. 

Shoot.     A  soft  and  growing  branch. 

Shrub.  A  small  and  bushy  woody  plant,  with  no  central  stem  or 
trunk ;  a  bush. 

Side-graft.  A  sort  of  grafting  in  which  the  scion  is  inserted  in 
a  slit  or  oblique  cleft  in  the  side  of  the  stock. 

Slip.     A  cutting. 

Small-fruit.  Low  and  bush-like  fruit-plants,  and  the  fruits  they 
produce,  as  the  currant,  gooseberry,  blackberry,  strawberry, 
and  the  like. 

Splice-graft.  A  sort  of  grafting  in  which  both  the  scion  and 
stock  are  cut  off  obliquely  and  the  cut  surfaces  applied  to  each 
other,  the  two  scions  being  held  secure  by  bands  of  string. 


Glossary.  211 

Seed.     The  sexual  reproductive  organ  of  flowering  plants ;   a 

ripened  ovule.    Its  essential  part  is  the  embryo,  or  rudimentary 

plantlet. 
Seedage.    The  process  of  propagation  by  seeds,  or  the  state  or 

condition  of  being  propagated  by  seeds. 
Seed-germ.     The  rudimentary  plant  contained  in  the  seed ;  em- 
bryo. 
Seedling.     A  plant  growing  directly  from  the  seed,  without  the 

intervention  of  grafts  or  cuttings. 
Self-fertilization,     The  action  of  pollen  upon  a  pistil  of  the  same 

flower ;  close-fertilization. 
Self-pollination.    The  transfer  of  pollen  to  a  pistil  of  the  same 

flower. 
Spore.    The  reproductive  body  of  a  flowerless  plant,  answering 

to  the  seed  of  a  flowering  plant.     It  contains  no  embryo. 
Spur.     A  very  short  and  small  branch  bearing  leaves  or  flowers. 
Stalk.    In  descriptions  of  apples  and  similar  fruits,  the  stem  or 

pedicel. 
Stamen.     That  portion  of  the  flower  which  bears  the  pollen.    It 

consists  of  the  anther  and  filament.     It  is  the  male  organ  of 

the  plant. 
Staminate.     Bearing  stamens  alone ;  male. 
Stem.    That  portion  of  the  plant  which  bears  leaves  or  buds,  or 

both.     It  may  be  aerial  or  subterranean. 
Stigma.    The  upper  extremity  of  the  pistil  upon  which  the  pollen 

is  received.    It  is  usually  more  or  less  pappilose  and  glutinous. 
Stipule.    A  more  or  less  leaf-like  and  usually  small  appendage  at 

the  base  of  a  petiole.    Stipules  are  borne  in  pairs,  but  they  are 

not  always  present. 
Stock.     1.  The  parentage  of  a  particular  strain  or  variety.    2.  A 

plant  or  part  of  a  plant  upon  which  a  bud  or  graft  is  set. 
Stolon.     A  decumbent  shoot  which  roots  at  or  near  the  tip,  as  the 

shoots  of  black  raspberries. 
Stove.     A  very  warm  glass  house,  used  for  growing  tropical 

plants. 
Strain.     A  subvariety,  or  individuals   of  a  variety,  which  has 

been  improved  and  bred  under  known  conditions. 
Stub.    A  portion  of  a  trunk  or  branch  which  has  been  recently 

grafted.    Usually  applied  to  top-grafting. 
Style.     The  more  or  less  slender  portion  of  the  pistil  connecting 

the  stigma  and  ovary. 


212  The  Horticulturist's  Rule- Book. 

Tongue-graft.     Whip-graft. 

Top-grafting.     Grafting  upon  the  top  of  a  plant. 

Tree.  A  woody  plant  attaining  the  height  of  a  man  or  more,  and 
having  a  definite  central  stem  or  trunk. 

Truss.     Loosely  applied  to  clusters  of  flowers  or  fruits. 

Tuber.  A  prominently  thickened  root  or  stem,  usually  subter- 
ranean. 

Umbel.  A  flower-cluster  which  is  flat  or  flattish  on  top,  and  whose 
pedicels  start  from  a  common  point,  or  nearly  so. 

Variety-bybi'ld.  A  cross  between  varieties  of  the  same  species ; 
half-breed;  cross-breed;  mongrel. 

Vegetable.  1.  A  plant.  3.  In  horticulture,  an  edible  portion  of 
an  annual  plant ;  kitchen-garden  vegetable.  In  the  latter  sense 
a  loose  term. 

Vegetable-gardening.  The  cultivation  of  kitchen-garden  vege- 
tables ;  olericulture. 

Vegetation.  1.  Vegetable  or  plant-life.  2.  The  process  or  act  of 
vegetating  or  growing. 

Veneer-graft.  A  sort  of  grafting  in  which  the  scion  is  applied 
to  the  side  of  the  stock,  only  the  bark  being  removed  between 
them. 

Viticulture.     Grape-culture. 

Weed.  A  plant  which  grows  where  it  is  not  wanted  and  which 
becomes  troublesome. 

Whip-graft.  A  species  of  gi-af ting  in  which  the  scion  is  secured 
to  the  stock  by  means  of  a  tongue  which  is  inserted  in  a  cleft 
in  the  stock ;  tongue-graft. 

Wilding.  A  wild  or  uncultivated  plant.  Commonly  used  to  des- 
ignate the  ^vild  individuals  of  a  cultivated  species. 

Wind-shake.  An  injury  to  the  trunk  of  a  tree,  consisting  of  the 
more  or  less  complete  separation  of  the  concentric  annual  lay- 
ers or  of  the  separation  of  the  bark  from  the  wood.  The  in- 
jury is  commonly  ascribed  to  the  wind,  but  it  is  of  tener  due  to 
the  frost  and  other  causes. 

Winter-killing.  The  process  or  act  by  which  a  plant  is  killed  by 
the  climate  of  winter. 

Worm.  A  term  properly  applied  to  a  large  class  of  legless  artic. 
ulated  animals,  of  which  the  angleworm,  or  earthwoi'm,  and 
trichina,  arc  examples.  The  term  is  commonly,  but  improperly, 
applied  to  the  larvae  of  insects. 


INDEX. 


Page. 

Acanthacara  similis 34 

Acrocystis  batatas 58 

Actinomenarosa 56 

ALgeria  exitiosa 32 

^geriapolistiformis 28 

^geriapyri 33 

^geria  tipuliformis 24 

Agrotis 25 

Alcoholic  Waxes 68 

American  Florists,  Rules  of  .  .  142 
Ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper  40 
Ammoniated  copper  sulphate    .    40 

Analyses     167,  184 

Anarsia  lineatella 38 

Angleworm 18 

Animal   Excrements,   Analyses 

of 176 

Anisopteryx  vernata 19 

Anthomyia  brassicae 22 

Anthomyia  ceparum 30 

Anthomyia  raphani 35 

Anthonomus  musculus 38 

Anthonomus  suturalis 24 

Anthonomus  quadrigibbus  ...    18 

Anthracnose 46 

Ants 29 

Aphis 32 

Aphis  Forbesii 38 

Aphis  persicse-niger 32 

Aphides 18 

Aphodius  granarius 23 

Apple 18 

Apple-Bucculatrix 18 

Apple-Curculio iS 

Apples,  To  Find  Bushels  of    .   .  139 
(2 


Page. 

Apple  Flea-Beetle 18 

Apple-Maggot 18 

Apple-Pomace,  Analysis  of  .   .    .  174 

Apples,  Weights  of 137 

Apricot 21 

Arsenic 7 

Arsenite  Soda  for  weeds  ....    66 

Artipus  Floridanus 31 

AsafcEtida  for  rabbits 63 

Ascomyces  deformans 52 

Ash  of  Fruits,  for  Fertilizing  .    .  171 

Ashes,  Analj'ses  of 182 

Ashes,  Coal,  Analyses  of  .   .    .   .183 
Ashes,  Wood,  Analyses  of  .   .    .  182 

Asparagus 21 

Asparagus-Beetle 21 

Aster 21 

Aster-Worm ....    21 

Audoynaud  process 42 

Bait 9 

Bag-Worm      21 

Balm  of  Gilead 46 

Bandage,  Waxed 69 

Bark-Lice 18 

Bark-Louse,  Apple 19 

Basket- Worm 21 

Bean 21 

Bean-Bug 21 

Bean  Weevil 21 

Bear,  Time  required  to     ....    97 

Beet,  Analysis  of 175 

Beet  Rust 46 

Beeswax  Waxes 68 

Bembecia  marginata 35 

Bisulphide  carbon  and  kerosene     9 


13) 


214 


The  HorticiiltuHsf  s  Rule- Book. 


Page. 

Bitter-Rot 45 

Blackberry 22 

Black-Rot 49 

Black-Shank 58 

Black-Spot 56 

Bladders 55 

Blepharida  rhois 38 

Blight '45 

Blight,  Lima  Bean 46 

Blight-powder 41 

Blister-Beetle 22 

Blood  for  rabbits 62 

Blue  vitriol  or  copperas    ....      9 

Boiler  Cement 71 

Boilers  to  prevent  Sediment  .  .  137 
Bone  Charcoal,  Analysis  of  .  .  180 
Bone-Black,  Dissolved,  Analysis 

of 180 

Books,  Ola,  dates  on 140 

Bordeaux  mixture  .......    41 

Branches,  Analysis  Of    ...   .      170 

Bruchus  obsoletus 21 

Bruchus  pisi 31 

Bucculatrix  pomifoliella  ....    18 

Budding,  Ways  of 102 

Bud-Moth 19 

Buhach 13 

Cabbage 22 

Cabbage-Butterfly 22 

Cabbage-Worm 22 

Cabbage,  Preserving  of    .   .   .      109 

Caeoma  luminatum 56 

Camphor  for  rats  and  mice     .   .    62 

Cane-Borer 35 

Canker-Worm 19 

Carbolic  acid 41 

Carbolic  acid  for  weeds  ....  66 
Carbolic  acid  and  soap  mixture  9 
Carbolic  acid  and  water  ....     9 

Carbolized  plaster 10 

Carbon,  bisulphide  of 9 

Carbonate  baryta  for  rats  and 

mice 61 

Carnation,  Rust  of 47 


Page 

Carpocapsa  pomonella 19 

Carrot 23 

Carrots,  Analyses  of 175 

Cattle,  Feces,  Analysis  of    .    .    .  176 

Cattle,  Urine,  Analysis  of    .   .    .  176 

Cauliflower 23 

Celery 23 

Celery  Leaf-Blight 47 

Celsius,  thermometer 131 

Cements  and  Mortars  .   .    .   .  71,  73 
Centigrade,  thermometer    .   .    .131 

Ceratocystis  fimbriata 58 

Cercospora  Apii 47 

Cercospora  rosaecola 56 

Cherry 23 

Cherrj-,  Brown- Rot 47 

Chloride  of  iron 41 

Chrysanthemum 23 

Chrysanthemum  Leaf-Miner  .    .  23 

Chrysobothris  femorata    ....  20 

Cladosporium 52 

Cladosporium  fulvum       ....  59 

Clisiocampa  Americana    ....  20 

Clisiocampa  sylvatica       ....  20 
Cloth,  for  hotbed  sash    .   .    .  138,  70 

Cloth,  Paints  for 76 

Cloth,  Waxed       70 

Club-Foot 46 

Club-Root 46 

Coal-tar 70 

Coal-tar  Coating  for  weeds     .   .  66 

Coal-tar  fumes 9 

Coccotorus  scutellaris 34 

Codlin-Moth 19 

Colletrotrichum  Spinaceae  ...  57 

Colorado  Potato-Beetle     ....  35 
Combinations  arsenites  and 

fungicides 8 

Concrete 73,  74 

Conotrachelus  nenuphar  ....  34 

Copperas     9 

Copper  Cement 72 

Copper  mixture  of  Gironde     .   .  41 

Corn 23 


Index. 


215 


Page. 
Corn-Fodder,  Analysis  of  .  .  .  174 
Corn-Kernel,  Analysis  of     .    .      174 

Cornstalk-Borer 23 

Corn,  Rot 47 

Cottonwood  Leaf- Beetle  ....  34 
Countries,     of    Cultivated 

Plants 192,  193 

Covent  Garden  Measures  .  121,  122 
Cow-manure  for  rabbits  ....  63 
Cow-manure  for  potting-soil  .   .  139 

Cracking  of  fruits 53 

Cranberry 23 

Cranberry- Aphis 23 

Cranberry-vine,  Analysis  of  .  .  174 
Cranberry,  Gall-Fungus       ...    48 

Cranberry-  Saw-Fly 24 

Cranberr^'-Worm 23 

Craponius  insequalis 27 

Crioceris  asparagi 21 

Crystallized  Fruit loS 

Cucumber,  Insects  of    .   .       .    .    24 

Cucumber-Mildew 48 

Cucumber-Worm .24 

Cultivation,  Periods  of 192 

Currant  Borer 24 

Currant  and   Gooseberry  Saw- 
Fly     '.   .    .   .      4 

Currant  Measuring-Worm  ...    25 

Currant  Rust 48 

Currant-Worm     24 

Cupric  steatite 43 

Curculio 34 

Cut-Worm 25 

Cut-Worm,  Climbing 25 

Cystopus  Ipomoea-panduranoe  .    59 

Dactylopus  adonidum 30 

Dahlia 26 

Dakruma  convolutella 27 

Dalmation  insect-powder     ...    13 

Damping-off      48 

Darapsa  myron  .  .  28 
Dates,  for  Sowing  and  Setting  87,89 
Dates  of  Fruits  and  Nuts  .  .  .  134 
David's  powder 42 


Page. 

Depressaria  heracliana 31 

Derivation,  of  Names 190 

Destroying  affected  parts     .   .       42 

Deutzia 26 

Diabrotica  12-punctata 24 

Diabrotica  vittata 24 

Diplosis  pyrivora 33 

Doryphora  decemlineata  ...       35 

Downy  Mildew 50 

Dove-Manure 179 

Dried  Blood,  Analysis  of.  .  .  .181 
Dry  Ground  Fish,  Analysis  of  .  181 
Dry  Matter,  Composition  of  .   .  170 

Dry-Rot 58 

Dung,  Cow,  for  potting-soil    .   .  139 

Duck-Manure 179 

Earthenware  Cement 72 

Earthworm 18 

Eau  celeste 42 

Eau  Grison 42 

Edioptis  nitidalis 24 

Egg-Plant 26 

Elaphidion  parallelum 21 

Elaphidion  villosum 21 

Elements,  Symbols  of 167 

Elm 26 

Elm  Flea-Beetle 26 

Emphytus  maculatus     .    .       .   .    38 

Empoa  albopicta 25 

Endive 26 

Entomosporium  maculatum  .  .  53 
Entomosporium  maculatum  var. 

Cydoniae 56 

Entyloma  EUisii 57 

Erj-throneura  vitis 28 

Esteve  process 43 

Eudemis  botrana 27 

Eudioptis  hyalinata 30 

Eufitchia 25 

Exoascus  derformans 52 

Fahrenheit,  thermometer     .    .    .131 

Fall  Web- Worm 19 

Fertilizers,  Analysis  of  ....  179 
Fertilizers,  Value  of,  1891    ...  183 


2l6 


The  Horticulturist' s  Rule- Book. 


Page. 

Fidia  viticida 27 

Figures  and  Statistics  .    .   .  139,  140 

Fire-Worm 23 

Fireproof  or  Stone  Cement  .  .  72 
Fiat-Headed  Borer     .....    20 

Flea-Beetle 26 

Flower-Pots,  to  keep  clean  .   .    .137 

Plower-Pots,  Standard 113 

Flowers,  National  and  Party  .   .133 
Flowers,  Preserving  and  Print- 
ing      159.  164 

Four-Striped  Plant-Bug    ....    25 

Formica 29 

Frenching 52 

French  Waxes 69 

Fruits,  Analyses  of 16S 

Fruit  and  Branches,  Analyses  of  171 
Fruits  and  Nuts,  Dates  of  .  .  .  134 
Fruits,  in  Various  Languages    . 

Fruits,  how  Multiplied 102 

Fruit  Plants,  Analyses  of  .   .    .   .168 

Fire-Proof  Paint 75 

Fruits,  Sub-Tropical,  Analyses 

of 169 

Fruit-Worm 38 

Fusicladium  dentriticum     ...    46 

Fusicladium  pyrinum 53 

Galleruca  xantho-meloena  ...  26 
Garden  Borders,  Concrete  for  .  73 
Garden  Seeds,  Longevity  of  .  .  83 
Garden  Seeds,  Time  required  to 

germinate 86 

Garden    Seeds,    Weight    and 

Size    .   .       79 

Garden  Vegetables,  Naming  of  .  142 

Gas-Lime,  Analysis  of 183 

Goose-Manure 178 

German  Potash  Salts,  Analysis 

of 182 

Gipsy-Moth 26 

Girdling  by  mice 61 

Glseosporium  fructigenum  ...  51 
Glseosporium  Lindemuthianum  46 
Glaeosporium  necator 56 


Page. 
Glaeosporium  nervisequum  ...    54 

Glass  bottles,  Cutting 137 

Glass,  Cement  for 72 

Glass  for  Commercial  Purposes  .  132 

Glass,  Reflection  from 132 

Glossary  200 

Glues 76,  77 

Glue  and  arsenites  wash  ....    10 

Gooseberry 27 

Gooseberry  Fruit-Worm  ....    27 

Goosebern,-- Mildew 48 

Grafting,  Ways  of loi 

Grain- Aphodius 23 

Grape 27 

Grape,  Anthracnose 49 

Grape-Berry  Worm 27 

Grape-Curculio 27 

Grapes,  Keeping 106 

Grape  Seed-Worm 27 

Grape-Slug 27 

Grape-vine  Fidia 27 

Grape-vine  Flea-Beetle     ....    27 

Grape-vine  Root-Borer 28 

Grape-vine  Sphinx 28 

Graptodera  chalybea 27 

Graptodera  foliacea 18 

Grasshoppers 29 

Greenhouse- Roofs,  Paint  for  .   .    75 

Green-Fly 29 

Green  Leaf- Hopper    .   .  ^  .    .   .    25 

Green  Lettuce- Worm 29 

Grison  liquid     42 

Ground  Bones,  Analysis  of  .   .      180 
Ground-squirrel,  remedies  ...    63 

Gryllotolpa  borealis 35 

Gum,  Flower 77 

G>-psum,  Analysis  of 182 

Haltica  striolata 26 

Harlequin  Cabbage-Bug  ....    22 

Hay,  Tons  in  a  Mow 139 

Hay,  Tons  in  a  Stack 139 

Heliothis  armigera 38 

Hellebore,  White 17 

Helotropha  atra 23 


Index. 


217 


Page. 

Hen-Manure 178 

Herbarium,  To  make 158 

Heterodera  radicicola 36 

Hilgar's  Wash 43 

Hollyhock 29 

Hollyhock  Rust 51 

Horse-Feces 177 

Horse-Urine 177 

Hoskin's  Wax 70 

Hot  water 10 

Human  Feces 178 

Human  Urine 178 

Hyphantria  textor 19 

Insects,  Collecting  and  Preserv- 
ing      165,  166 

Iron  cement 71 

Isosoma  vitis 27 

Jumping  Sumac-Beetle 38 

Kainit,  Analyses  of 182 

Katydid 32 

Keeping  Apples 104 

Keeping  Figs 105 

Keeping  Fruits  and  Vegetables  104 

Keeping  Gooseberries 105 

Keeping  Grapes  for  Market    .    .  106 

Keeping  Pears 104 

Kerosene 10 

Kerosene  and  condensed  milk 

emulsion 10 

Kerosene  and  milk  emulsion  .   .    10 
Kerosene  and  water  emulsion   .    11 

Kerosene  emulsion     10 

Kitchen-Garden,  Seeds  for  .   .   .    86 
Labels  and  Specimens,  Gum  for    77 

Labels,  Ink  for 137 

Labels,  To  preserve 138 

Lachnosterna  fusca 30 

Laestadia  Bidwelli 49 

Land-Plaster,  Analysis  of    .    .   .  182 

Lawns 29 

Leaf-Blight 58 

Leaf-Curl 52 

Leaf-Crumpler 29 

Leaf-Brownness 56 


Page. 

Leaf-Hopper 28 

Leaf-Mold 59 

Leaf-Notcher 31 

Leaf-Rust 55 

Leaf-Scorching 54 

Leaf-Spot 56 

Legal  Sizes 116 

Legal  Weights 116 

Lettuce 29 

Lettuce-Mildew 51 

Lime  Spray 11 

Lime,  sulphur  for  weeds  ....    66 

Lina  scripta       34 

Liver  of  sulphur 43 

Lixus  concavus 36 

London  purple 8 

London  purple  lye  and  sulphur 

wash II 

Longevity  of  fruit-trees     ....    98 
Loudon's  Rules  of  Horticulture  141 

Louse       23 

Lye  and  whale-oil  soap  wash  .   .    11 

Lytta 22 

Macrodactylus  subspinosus    .    .    37 
Macrosila  quinquemaculata    .    .    38 

Macrosporium  tomato 59 

Maggot 35 

Mail  Matter,  Rates  of       .   .  150,  152 

Manure,  Analyses  of 176 

Maple  Leaf- Spot 51 

Margarodes  quadristigmalis  .   .    35 
Maturity,  Time  required  for  .   .    97 

May-Bug 30 

May-Beetle 30 

Mealy  Bug 30 

Measures 113,  128 

Measures,  Value  of        139 

Melampsora  populina 55 

Melon 30 

Melon- Worm 30 

Metals,  To  keep  from  rusting    .    76 

Metric  Measure 127,  128 

Mice  girdling  trees 61 

Mice,  Injuries  by 62 


2l8 


The  Horticulturist's  Rule-Book. 


Page. 
Microcentrum  retinervis  ....  30 
Micrococcus  amylovorus     ...    53 

Midge 33 

Mite 31 

Mole-Cricket 35 

Monilia  fructigena 47 

Monilochaetes  infuscans   ....    58 

Mortar     73 

Morthiera  Mespili   .    . 53 

Moss  on  Lawns 67 

Moss  on  Trees 67 

Moss  on  Walks 67 

Mushroom 30 

Mushroom-Fly      30 

Muriate  of  Potash,  Analysis  of  .  1S2 

Mytilaspis  pomorum 19 

Myxus  persicae 32 

Names  of  Fruits,  Derivation  .   .  190 
Names  of  Vegetables,  Deriva- 
tion     190,  191 

Nematus  ventricosus 24 

Nitrate  of  Soda,  Analysis  of  .  .181 
Nomenclature,  Rules  of  ....  141 
Oak-Leaves,  Analysis  of ...    .  179 

Oberea  bimaculata 35 

Ocneria  dispar 26 

CEcanthus  niveus 36 

Oidium  erysiphoides 59 

Oidium  erysiphoides  var.  Cur- 

curbitarum     48 

Oil  and  alkali  wash 12 

Old  Books,  Dates  of 140 

Oil  Vitriol  for  weeds 66 

Oncideres  cingulatus 34 

Onion 30 

Onions,  Preserving no 

Onion-Rust 51 

Orange 30 

Orange- Leaf  Scab 52 

Orange-keeping 56 

Orange-Rust 56 

Orgya  leucostigma 21 

Orthotylus  delicatus 29 

Oscinis 23 


Page, 

Paints 73,  76 

Paper,  for  hotbed  sash 138 

Paper,  Paints  for 76 

Paper,  Waterproof 138 

Papilio  Asterias 31 

Paraffine  oil 12 

Paris  green 7 

Parsley- Worm 31 

Parsnip  Web- Worm 31 

Paste,  French,  for  rats  and  mice    62 

Pea-Bug 31 

Pea-Weevil 31 

Pea-Straw,  Analysis  of 174 

Peach,  Analyses  of 170 

Peach,  Curl 52 

Persian  insect-powder 13 

Peach-Louse 32 

Peach-Tree  Borer 32 

Peach-Twig  Moth 32 

Pear-Blight 53 

Pear-Leaf  Blister 33 

Pear-Tree  Borer 33 

Pear  Twig-Beetle 20 

Peas,  Analysis  of 175 

Perfumery,  To  make 164 

Peronospora  effusa 57 

Peronospora  gangliformis    ...    51 
Peronospora  Schleideniana     .   .    51 

Peronospora  Violae 60 

Peronospora  viticola 50 

Persimmon 34 

Peruvian  guano 179 

Phenic  acid 41 

Phoma  batatae 58 

Phoma  uvicola 49 

Phopobota  vacciniana 23 

Phoxopteris  comptana 37 

Phragmidium  mucronatum     .   .    57 

Phycis  indigenella 29 

Phyllosticta  acericola    .   .       .   .    51 

Phyllosticta  bataticola 58 

Phyllosticta  Chenopodii  ....    57 

Phyllotreta  vittata 26 

Phylloxera  vastatrix 28 


Index. 


219 


Page. 
Phytophthora  infestans     ■    ...    55 

Phytophthora  Phaseoli 46 

Phytoptus  pyri 33 

Pickle-Worm 24 

Pieris  rapae 22 

Pineapple 34 

Pipes,  Water  held  by 129 

Pitch  Waxes 69 

Pits  and  Frames,  Paints  for    .    .    76 

Plane-Tree     54 

Plant-Lice ...    18 

Planting  Fruits,  Distance    ...    90 
Planting  Vegetables,  Distance  .    91 

Plants,  Collecting 15S,  159 

Plants,  Preserving  .   .       .   .  158,  159 
Plants,    Preserving   and    Print- 
ing   59,  164 

Plants  to  Set  an  Acre    .   .   .   .  92,  96 
Plasmidiophora  brassicas     .       .    46 

Plaster  and  kerosene 12 

Plowrightia  morbosa      ...       .54 

Plum      34 

Plum-Curculio 32 

Plum-Gouger 34 

Plum-Knot      54 

Plum  Leaf-Rust 54 

Plum  Pockets 55 

Plum-Wart 54 

Plusia  brassicae 29 

Pod-Rust 46 

Podeschard's  powder 42 

Podospaera  oxycanthae  ....        45 

Poecil  ocapsus  lineatus 25 

Poison,  California  rabbit  ....    63 

Polyporus  versicolor 53 

Poplar,  Disease  of 55 

Postage,  Foreign 152 

Potash 12 

Potassium  sulphate 43 

Potatoes,  to  find  bushels  in  bin     139 

Potato-Rot •  ...    55 

Powdery  Mildew 50 

Precipitated  carbonate  of  Cop- 
per      41 


Page. 
Preserving    Fruits    for   Exhibi- 
tion     108 

Prim,  Insect  of '.    .    .        35 

Pristiphora  identidem 24 

Privet  W'eb-Worm 35 

Promoting  growth 12 

Propagating,  Ways  of 100 

Psylla  pyri 33 

Puccinia  Malvacearum 51 

Puccinia  pruni-spinosae     ....    54 

Putty,  for  Glazing 138 

Pyrethrum 12 

Pyrethrum  cinerariaefolium     .    .    13 

Pyrethrum  roseum 13 

Quassia 14 

Quince,  Insects  of 35 

Quince-Blight 56 

Rabbits,  Injuries  by  ...   .      62,  63 

Radish,  Insects  of 35 

Raspberry,  Insects  of 35 

Raspberry-,  Analyses  of 170 

Raspberry  Cane- Rust 56 

Raspberry  Root-Borer    ....        35 

Raspberry  Saw-FIy 35 

Reaumur,  thermometer     ....  131 

Recipes  and  Rules 137 

Red-Legged  Flea-Beetle  ....    32 

Red-Rust  of  Raspberry 56 

Red-Spider 36 

Resin  and  fish-oil  soap 14 

Resin  and  petroleum  soap  ...    14 

Resin  soap 14 

Resin,  soda  and  tallow  soap   .    .    14 

Resin  wax 68 

Rhizopus  nigricans 58 

Rhodites  radicum 36 

Rhubarb-Curculio       36 

Ripe-Rot  of  Peach 51 

Roestelia      45 

Root  Gail-Fly 36 

Root-Knot 36 

Root-Louse 20 

Roots,  Preserving  of no 

Root- Rot  of  Pear 53 


220 


The  HorticiilturisV  s  Rule- Book. 


Page. 

Rose-beetle 37 

Rose-bug 37 

Rose-chafer 37 

Rose,  Leaf-blight 56 

Rose  Leaf-hopper 37 

Rot  and  Blight  of  Peach  ....    52 

Round-headed  Borer 20 

Rules 141.  150 

Rules  for  Awarding  Commit- 
tees     143 

Rules  for  Exhibitors 143 

Rules  for  Exhibition 145 

Rules  of  Horticulture 141 

Rules  of  Mass.  Hort.  Society  .  144 
Rules    of   Mich.   Hort.  Society 

145,  150 

Rules  of  Nomenclature    ....  141 

Rusting,  To  prevent 76 

Salt  and  lime  wash 15 

Salt,  for  weeds 66 

Saperda  Candida 20 

Saperda  cretata 20 

Saw-fly 27 

Scab 46 

Scale 31 

Scales,  Thermometer 151 

Schizocerus  ebenus 38 

Schizoneura  lanigera 20 

Sealing-cement 72 

Sea-Weed,  Analysis  of 179 

Seeds  for  an  acre 78 

Selandria  cerasi 23 

Selandria  rubi 35 

Selandria  vitis 27 

Septoria  cerasina 54 

Septoria  Dianthi .    47 

Septoria  Ribi 48 

Sheep-feces 177 

Sheep-urine 177 

Shelled  Corn,  to  find  bushels  of  139 
Shot -hole  fungus,  Plum    ....    54 

Skawinski's  powder 43 

Skawinski's  sulphate  of  iron  so- 
lution     43 


Page. 

Snails 37 

Soap  and  arsenites 15 

Soap  and  lime  wash 15 

Soap  and  soda  wash 15 

Soap  and  tobacco 15 

Soap,  Fish-oil 15 

Society  standard  measures   117,  121 

Soda  and  aloes 15 

Soda  and  resin  wash 16 

Soda  and  whale-oil  soap  wash  .    16 

Soda  hyposulphite      43 

Soda  wash 16 

Soft-rot  of  sweet-potato  ....  58 
Soil-rot  of  sweet-potato   ....    58 

Span-worm 25 

Sphaceloma  ampelinum   ....    49 

Sphaerella  fragariae 57 

Sphaerotheca  Castagnei   ....    57 

Sphasrotheca  pannosa 57 

Sphaerotheca  Mors-uvae       ...    48 

Spinage,  Diseases  of 57 

Squashes,  Preserving  .  .  .  .  no 
Stem-rot  of  sweet-potato     ...    58 

Stictocephala  festina 38 

Stocks  for  Fruits 103 

Storing 104 

Strachia  histrionica 22 

Strawberry,  Insects  of  ...  .  37 
Strawberry,  Analyses  of  .  .  .  .170 
Strawberry  Crown-borer  .  .  37 
Strawberry  Leaf-blight  ....  57 
Strawberry  Leaf-roller     ....    37 

Strawberry-mildew 57 

Strawberry  Root-borer  ....  38 
Strawberry  Root-louse     ....    38 

Strawberry  Saw-fly 38 

String,  Waxed 69 

Sulfo-steatite 43 

Sulphate  ofAmmoniaAnalysis  of  181 
Sulphate  of  copper  .......    43 

Sulphate  of  iron 43 

Sulphate  of  Magnesia,  Analysis 

of 181 

Sulphate  of  Potash,  Analysis  of  181 


Index. 


221 


Page. 

Sulphated  sulphur 41 

Sulphatine 43 

Sulphide  of  soda  wash 16 

Sulphur 16 

Sulphur  and  lime 44 

Sulphur  and  snuff 16 

Sulphur  and   whale  -oil   soap 

wash     16 

Sulphur  for  rabbits 63 

Sulphuret  of  potassium    ....    43 

Sumac,  Insect  of 38 

Sweet-potato,  Insects  of  ....  38 
Sweet -potato,  Black-rot  ....  58 
Sweet-potatoes,  preserving     .    .  no 

Swine-feces 177 

Swine-urine 178 

Symbols,  Chemical 197 

Synchytrium  vaccinii 48 

Tanks  and  Wells,  Capacities  of  126 

Taphrina  deformans 52 

Taphrina  pruni 55 

Tar  Cement ...    72 

Tartar  emetic  for  rats  and  mice    61 

Tent-Caterpillars 20 

Termites 39 

Tetranychus  bimaculatis  ...  30 
Tetranychus  6-maculatus     ...    31 

Tetranychus  telarius 36 

Tettigonia  rosoe 37 

Thj-ridopteryx  ephemeraeformis   21 

Thrip 28 

Title-pages,  Dates  on 140 

Tmetocera  ocellana 19 

Tobacco 17 

Tomato,  Insects  of 38 

Tomato-blight 59 

Tomatoes,  Preserving 112 

Tomato-ringer 38 

Tobacco-stems,  Analyses  of  .   .  180 

Tomato-worm       38 

Tree-cricket 36 

Tree  seeds,  Number,  in  pound      82 

Trichobaris  trinotata 35 

Trypeta  pomonella iS 


Page. 

Turnip,  Insect  of 39 

Turnip,  Analysis  of 175 

Tussock-moth 21 

Twig-girdler 34 

Twig-pruners 21 

Tyloderma  fragariae 37 

Typlocyba  albopicta 25 

Uncinula  spiralis 50 

Unmailable  matter     ....  152,  154 

Urocystis  cepulas 51 

Uromyces  betae 46 

Uromyces  caryophyllinus    ...    47 

Ustilago  Ze£E-Mays 47 

Vegetables,  Hardy 90 

Vegetables,   Names  in    various 

languages 186 

Vegetable  Kingdom,    Statistics 

of 194 

Vegetables,  Names  in  America 

and  England 185 

Vegetables,  Tender 90 

Venessa  antiopa 39 

Verbena-rust 59 

Violet  disease  or  rust 60 

Wash  for  mice 62 

Wash  for  sheep  injury' 62 

Wash  to  keep  rabbits  from  trees    62 

Watermelon  pod-rust 60 

Waxes 68,  69,  70 

Weeds 65,66 

W^eigelia,  Insects  of 39 

Whale-oil  soap 17 

Wliite  ants 39 

White  hellebore 17 

Wholesale  quantities 135 

Willow,  Insects  of 39 

Wind,  cooling  glass 131 

Wire-worm 39 

Wounds,  Waxes  for 70 

Xyleborus  pyri     .   .       33 

Yellows 52 

Yields,  per  acre 98,  99 

Zinc  labels,  Ink  for 137 


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Mount  Hope  Nurseries,  Rochester,  N.  Y. 

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taining information  indispensable  to  planters — the  most  complete  published , 
Free. 

THE  BEST  BOOKS. 


ANNALS  OF  HORTICULTURE  FOR  1891.— "Bright,  new,  clean  and 
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INSECTS  AND  INSECTICIDES.— A  practical  Manual  concerning 
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Price,  cloth,  $1.25. 

THE  CAULIFLOWER.— By  A.  A.  Crozier.  Origin  and  History  of  this 
increasingly  important  and  always  delicious  vegetable. 

The  Cauliflower  Industry.— In  Europe.  In  the  United  States.  Impor- 
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Management  of  the  Crop.— Soil.  Fertilizers.  Planting.  Cultivating. 
Harvesting.    Keeping.    Marketing. 

The  Early  Crop.— Caution  against  planting  it  largely.  Special  directions. 
Buttoning. 

Cauliflower  Regions  of  the  United  States.— Upper  Atlantic  Coast.  Lake 
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Cauliflower-Seed. — Importance  of  careful  selection.  Where  the  Seed  is 
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Varieties.— Descriptive  Catalogue.  Order  of  Earliness.  Variety  tests. 
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Broccoli.— Difference  between  Broccoli  and  Cauliflower.  Cultivation, 
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Cooking  Cauliflower.— Digestibility.  Nutritive  Value.  Chemical  Com- 
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PRACTICAL  FARM  CHEMISTRY.-A  Practical  Handbook  of  Profitable 
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Part  III.    Principles  of  Economic  Application,  or  Manuring  for  Money. 

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THE  NEW  POTATO  CULTURE.— By  Elbert  S.  Carman.  This  book 
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treats  particularly  of:  How  to  increase  the  Crop  without  Corresponding 
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Trench  System.    Varieties,  etc.,  etc. 

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GARDEN, 
FLOiaTER, 
AND  FIELD 


SEEDS,  BULBS, 

Horticultural  Implements,  Tools,  etc. 

Landreth's  Illustrated  Descriptive 

CATALOGUE  and  RURAL  REGISTER 

FREE  to  all  applicants. 

D.  LANDRETH  &  50NS, 

Seed  and  Implement  Warehouse, 

Nos.  21    and   23  S.  Sixth  St.,   Philadelphia,   Pa. 

FOUNDED  1784. 


